Fiber Cement Boards Fiber Cement Board For Floor

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$1.50 - 2.50 / m²
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TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m²
Supply Capability:
300000 m²/month
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Product Description:

The raw materials of fiber cement board are cellulose fiber, silicate cement, quartz sand, water and some additives. It's a kind of high-tech product which formed through accurate dosing by computer program, hatschek craft and compressed by 14000tons hydraulic machine and autoclaved under high temperature and pressure.

Product Applications:

Fiber cement board can be used in exterior wall cladding and facade of various high-class and high rise civil buildings especially in the modern luxurious buildings. Outstanding sound insulation of the system composed with Bysink external wall board can be used in indoor partition and suspended ceiling for the high demand in private request as sound insulation and such as five star hotel, bedroom, and public entertainment.

Also it can be used as the interior partition in the shops, hotels, schools, entertainment places and hospitals.


Product Advantages:

1)excellent fire-proof

2)excellent damp-proof

3)Durability and long service life

4)high strength

5)stable dimensions

6)good heat and sound insulation


8)mould resistant

9)no deformation

Main Product Features:


1) Elegance and excellent decoration
2) Easy installation and convenient maintenance
3) Best Surface processed with PVC Lamination
4) Heat insulation, thermal insulation, moisture proof, mould proof, sound absorption and noise reduction

5) Incombustibility / Fireproof
6) No dust / no pollution

7) Stucturally strong

8) Over 15 years no transmutation


Product Specifications:


Fiber Cement Boards Fiber Cement Board For Floor



1. Q:What is the different and most important point from other supplier? 

A:We guarantee No asbestos if it has asbestos density will be more than 1.4g/cm3 what's more 

3.2mm*3000*1220mm can be produced by us other suppliers can not do this size 

2. Q:What are the advantages of your board?

A: outstanding light weight ,heat insulation, waterproof, fireproof, sound insulation, fast construction.

3. Q: Is the board fire resistant? 

A: Yes, fire resistant 4 h , in the heat of 1000.actually it is noncombustible Class A1.

4. Q: Do you have any certificate to help us get government's approval?

A:China testing report and our laboratory' s testing by ourselves as your supporting document. 

Because building standards are different in different countries, most of our customers buy the boards for testing and get approval by themselves.

5. Q: If we need samples for customer approval, will it be possible? 

A: Of course we can.

6. Q:How to guarantee the quality? 

A:Laboratory, integral testing process from raw materials to finished product until loading containers will be done by our factory.





Fiber Cement Boards Fiber Cement Board For Floor

Fiber Cement Boards Fiber Cement Board For Floor

Fiber Cement Boards Fiber Cement Board For Floor

Fiber Cement Boards Fiber Cement Board For Floor


 Fiber Cement Boards Fiber Cement Board For Floor


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Q:should I use cement board or a leveling compound for my tile flooring?
On a wood floor use the backer board, on concrete use a leveling compound unless a 1/2 notched trowel can fill the gap with your thinset.
Q:I plan on installing about 400 square feet of ceramic tile in a kitchen. I wanted to know if I need to put down a cement backer board before laying the tile?If so, how do I determine if I should use 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch?Finally, what is the preferred method of securing it to the subfloor? Is is it glued somehow or nailed to the floor joists (I suspect nailed, but I've never used it before).The subfloor is plywood and seems secure. I am not sure how thick the plywood is yet (haven't gone to the basement and looked for any stamps on it). I've done ceramic tile before, but it has always been a small area with mosaic tile, so I never put much thought into the backer board.Thanks
click there and find out every tip and trick. it will make your life easier even if you have already installed tile on your own before.
Q:I just removed a top tile from my bathroom wall. It was about half way up and it was rounded at the top. Underneath is cement and it sticks out about an eight of an inch from the plaster wall above it. Anyone hear of this before. So the round tile at the top was covering the cement wall that stuck out. Not sure if it's just cement board I can can remove to the studs and put up more sheet rock. We plan on painting the walls and we were hoping we could get it flush. If not we'll use a chair rail to cover the offset.
Your easiest bet is to skim coat over the rough surface of the old mortar using a 12 drywall taping knife or a cheap concrete trowel. You can purchase thinset mortar for this. Use some bonding agent liquid on the old concrete first - let dry and then trowel on the thinset over it. Put down some cardboard on the floor and keep mortar like a milk shake consistency. Do about a 3'x3' area then move to next space. Use a spray bottle with water to spray over completed areas after about 5 minutes and trowel again which blends in each area and makes a smooth trowel slide over the thinset. After it dries 24hrs. you can then glue 1/4 or 1/2 thick drywall to this now smoother surface. Now rip a pc of wood to fit against the upper wall and flush with new drywall. Glue and nail this level across the top of new drywall. Apply molding over this so it has 1/4 reveal on top and hangs over the drywall top joint. Caulk nice and neatly and paint. If you try and bust off the old concrete/thinset mortar from the wall you are going to get into a big mess. There may even be wire lathe embedded in the thinset mortar. Big mess
Go ahead and finish the rest of the bathroom with hardibacker. You will never have a mold problem thats more than paint deep, or if you tile the walls, which you can now do cause you used hardibacker board mold will never get further than the grout. You made a good choice, any space thats prone to moisture calls for a cement type backing and hardibacker is so much easier to cut than the other products.
Q:i would also like to know what products might help me. Thanks :) Oh, and the type of board i got is called hardi-bord... i didnt know if that might help.
Cement Board Sealer
Q:What does the glass wire add to the cement?
In order to increase the flexibility of cement components. After the cement is condensed, although the hardness is high, but toughness is insufficient, fragile and crackible, especially thin and thin strip type components, without glass, even the operation is a problem. The addition of glass to the microstructure of the cement can be pulled together, greatly increasing the impact resistance and bending resistance of components.
Q:how do I drywall over cement in a basement? How do i attach the drywall to the walls?
You can get concrete nails at the hardware store. Nail 1 x 2 or 1x 4 to the concrete walls then you can apply the sheetrock to the nailers Nail the nailers at 16 on center or 24 on center
Q:The cement is in a three foot hole used with lumber for a hammock which, was too small as it broke off at the base. I've read where other people have dug around the cement to loosen it, but my main problem would be lifting it out once it's loose. Another option I found was using a sledge hammer to break it up but I don't own one. I'm sure I could rent one from my local home improvement store, but thought I'd try this avenue first to see if there were any alternatives.Thanks!
Rent a rotary hammer drill and turn the kludge into swiss cheese. Use a hammer to chip off enough of the top so that you can cover it with dirt and hide it.
Q:I am in the process of purchasing a townhome and I am looking to tear up the existing 12 ceramic tile that covers the entire main level... an area close to 600 sq. ft. to make way for laminate flooring. Thinset has been used to bond the tile to the cement backer board, and the backer board has been screwed to the wooden subfloor. There is also some sort of adhesive/mortar bonding the cement board to the wooden subfloor. What tools will I need. Are there any techniques that would make it easier? Would trying to remove the cement board damage the subfloor? If so, would it be acceptable to repair damage with some sort of floor leveling compound?
big *** crow bar, thats how i did my kitchen, yep it sucks. you can get a nice one for this in the garden section its made for digging holes but has a nice flat section, for what I dont know but it teats a floor up,
Q:I need side and rear clearance for a 15 year old wood stove. The 2x4 walls are covered with cement board and ceramic tiles. Behind that is a foundation wall.
In WA state, with a *certified* wood stove, the clearence is anywhere from 18 to 24 inches. You can put anything non-combustable on that wall... tile, rock, brick, Z brick, or metal plating with 1 air space from backer board. You could always check with the court house to find out what your local building codes are.

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