Fiber Cement Board

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1,Structure of （Cement Boards） Description

From 6mm Fiber Cement Board to 24mm presents the art of Germany know-how as a high quality building material.

6mm Fiber Cement Board to 24mm and sandwich panel contains inorganic raw materials such as cement, silica powder and reinforced cellulose fiber as the main materials. All SIGMA boards are autoclaved to become stable product. Fiber Cement Board does not contain any of asbestos fiber, however, it has strong bending strength like those with asbestos.Fiber Cement Board can be applied not only for the interior use but also for the outdoor wall system. It has low water absorption rate and high impact resistant ability. These good advantages make it suitable for any purposes of applications.

2,Main Features of the （Cement Boards）

Properties:
·100% Non-asbestos
·Density: 1250 to 1500 kg/m3 (+ - 5%)
·Coefficient of thermal expansion: 0.11 kcal/m.hroC
·Bending Strength: over 180 kgf/cm2
·Linear expansion rate: 0.1%
·Water absorption rate: 35%
·Water penetration rate: 0%
·Water content: 8%
·Incombustibility according to CNS 6532 and BS 476

3,（Cement Boards） Images

Fiber Cement Board

4,（Cement Boards） Specification

Fiber Cement Board

5,FAQ of （Cement Boards）

1.Hold by Wooden Pallet

2.Covered by PVC and Bonded with plastic belt

3.Fasten around the corners

4.Mounted in container to protect your purchasing

Q:it'll probably be another week of them grinding the cement floor and cutting wood boards inside the house until all the wood is installed. there is wood and cement dust EVERYWHERE, and a lot of the downstairs is still just cement and the dust is on that too, so vaccuming/sweeping it isn't really an option, plus the fact that our furniture from the living room which they're laying the wood in now is all in the familyroom and kitchen and can't be moved to sweep underneath. there is a thick layer of dust on EVERYTHING, and we're also coughing from it. is there anything i can do to get rid of this dust without disturbing it with a duster? is there some sort of stuff i can spray that will dissolve the dust?: No, you can't spray anything to dissolve dust. You have to just wait til they're done and go in with a duster and clean it. You could point a fan out a door I guess.

Q:A clerk told there there is a special hole saw for ceeeeeement board--but I never saw the same clerk again. I need to make five 2'' holes.: I'd use a metal cutting hole saw because it will only slightly dull the cutting tips, not enough to ruin it for future cutting of steel in the future! when ever using metal hole saws on steel always run the drill as slow as possible & use plenty of cutting fluid. Cutting cement board then use no cutting fluid at all! But one word of caution; wear safety glasses & a face mask. Cheers!

Q:FC sound-absorbing board is what material: FC board is made of pressurized fiber cement board as panel, with sandwich material in the factory processing production of composite wall panels.

Q:Decoration works: 1 cm thick cement pressure plate seal cylinder how much money a square meter, who knows ah: Material 10 yuan (good) artificial 15 must be large. Grass-roots labor + material = 45 Surface material optional, and then fiber is less than 20 yuan.

Q:do you have to tape cement board before tiling?: you dont have to but the idea is to fill and fiberglass tape the seams keeping them ridged so that in years to come the grout doesnt crack out. Yet thats something rather new, you should be fine just filling any of the voids with mastic adhesive as you lay them. A portland cement mix works well on durarock, and the new backer board, though drywall quickset works just as well.

Q:I've taken up old linoleum tile, chip board, and two other layers of linoleum to get down to an oak floor in my bathroom. This has a felt-like paper uniformly adhered to it that must have been the backing for the first linoleum layer. I'm going to put down Hardi-backer, then tile. Do I have to take up the old tile backing material before I put down the hardibacker? It's very difficult to remove. Thanks!: I've done it. And The kind of screws you need are not so specialized. Simple drywall screws. About 5 to 8 bucks for a box depending on their length. Now since you say you have no intention of pulling up the old vinyl flooring, and that the subflooring is plywood, I would seriously reconsider. If you are doing it this way out of sheer laziness, then dont do it at all. Also, why are you using cement backerboard for a floor? This is normally used in areas that will constantly be wet, such as a shower wall, steam room, etc. For the floor, and take it from me as I have done this before, and have worked with pros doing this as well. Rip out the vinyl flooring. Its extra work, but hey, do it right the first time not half... well you get the picture. Then once you have that done, you are left with the bare subfloor, typically Plywood or Particle board. Check to see if it is level first, if this is a new house, check to see if it is level anyways. Now, lay down over lapping layers of roofing paper. They should be overlapped by 4 inches. Nail them in place, dont glue or screw it down. Now that you have a good surface to start with, you can now begin your prep work for laying down your tile. Ok, so now you are probably asking, well, why not just leave the vinyl tile under it all, whats the difference. Well, right now, you may not think that it is, but later on you will. The thickness of that tile, plus the cement backerboard, or roofing paper will not transition decently into your adjacent rooms, and it will not look good. And yes, it will make a big difference. If you have any questions on how to go about laying the tile down, any tips, etc... feel free to ask.

Q:I can jump atleast 4 or 5 inches on a rug,grass, mud, sand. but i cant on cement when i ollie on cement my board like slips away after i pop and on everything else it doesnt. help?: that's rather helpful to benefit the grip on your board. If no longer that then perchance your shoes are the issue. If no longer the two of those merely regulate the way your foot is on the board, and prepare prepare prepare

Q:I have Hardibacker cement board down for ten years. Just removed the ceramic tile and mortar from it for a new tile job. Do I need to retape the joints or should they be stable at this point. The cement board was screwed into postion.: its a waste of time to tape the joints. once the substrate is combed with cement its bonded together taped or not.

Q:how do I lay cement board on a concrete floor with out screws?: look for a web site for the product your buying or ask for an installation sheet at the store. It will tell you what you can use and how to do it.. Type of glue etc. you don't want it to pop up and leave a springy section in the floor that bounces when walked on. I would think if you glued it down you would have to weight it down overnight.

Q:I'm laying slate tile over linoleum that was installed about 6 months ago....the linoleum is in very good condition, very smooth with no rips or lifting. I've done some research and figured I could put down cement board and then lay the tile on that. The floor under the linoleum is cement. Is there a special drill/special screw necessary to attach the cement board to the cement foundation?: I really like Woodtick's answer, and i want to encourage you to not bother with trying to install concrete board on top of a concrete floor. Not only is it very redundant, and expensive, and timely, but you also run the risk of seeing your concrete board crack under the tile, which would cause uneven surfaces and even tile breaks after installation. Concrete board is not very flexible, and is designed to go over soft, water damage prone materials such as wooden studs and joists. It would be a more structurally sound idea, and easier, and cheaper to buy a heat gun to remove the linoleum and adhesive with a scraper and lay tile on that.

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