Hardiebacker Cement Board

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FAQ

the durock cement board is 1/2 inch and the drywall is 5/8 of an inch...So the shower wall is about an 1/8 of an inch recessed intothe wall. What can I do to fix the situation without redoing anymore walls. If I butt up the bullnose tile against the drywall about half of the tile's thickness sticks out...actually looks ok. I don't know if i should try to make a gradient from the drywall to the tile. There are also some gap between the two types of boards.....fill it with mortar?

O.K. in this situation I will usually float this area , in other words the same way u float sheetrock , but I use mastic instead of gypsum compound.

i have an old cement wall house, i have tar paper on the outer walls and plan on putting 1 or 1 1/2 thick ridge insulation on the walls. These are above grade walls not basement.My question is do i have to vapor barrier the walls or just tape the seams of the foam insulation.thanks in advance

If you already have tar paper (roofing felt, I presume), thats a vapor barrier. You don't need another. You can caulk the joints between the boards if you'd like.

I have so many people and floor co. telling me that one is better than the other! I am retired so I need to get the most out of my money and want to do it correct one time. So which is better to us on a raised floor for tile, floating cement or cement backer board? Please help thanks!!

I would say backer board. If planned on doing marble or granite floors that is when you would use cement. Also they will end up charging you more if you do floating cement, make sure to read through your estimates thoroughly before agreeing to anything. Hope that helps!

I am seeking to set porcelain tile on top of the hardibacker board once it is secured. If I have to remove the Barmaill plywood, does anyone have any suggestions on how to do this with ease? I assume its glued as well as screwed down.

Make sure the plywood is waterproofed by applying a couple of coats of matte polyurethane to it....let it dry completely. Thin set contains water, and you do not want the plywood delaminating. Once the surface is preped, and the plywood is very solid...no flex allowed!, apply thin set and set backer board into it. I usually use drywall screws and screw it down all over the place to make sure the board is in perfect contact with the thinset and backer board. USE Latex fortified thin set or Epoxy thin set...will adhere very well to the sealed ply. NOw, you are ready to set tile...Have a ball. Good luck.

Seeking wire mesh clip on both sides of the foam cement mortar to do the wall technology.

With light steel keel, cement board to do both economical and light weight. In the middle with rock wool to insulation sound insulation

Iam building a dry stack wall and the home store said to use cement broad and wire mess .

You mean wire mesh. Yes, you need that.

Unfortinatly i already have the tile but i was hoping i could use self leveling cement then atattch the tile to it. is this even a posabilityor should i use hardyback board and if i do how can i atattch it to the cement

just use the self leveler, let it set and install the tile right on to the floor, no hardybacker needed....( use the right mastic ) lic. gen. contractor

I need to cut a curved piece of cement board. Will it work to score it with a utility knife, then break it? Thanks.

Yes it cuts just like drywall, scrore then snap.Score a bit deeper though.