• Fiber Cement Board Water Proof  Type with High Quality System 1
  • Fiber Cement Board Water Proof  Type with High Quality System 2
  • Fiber Cement Board Water Proof  Type with High Quality System 3
Fiber Cement Board Water Proof  Type with High Quality

Fiber Cement Board Water Proof Type with High Quality

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
600 pc
Supply Capability:
20000 pc/month

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Description:


Calcium Silicate Board is mainly made of siliceous and calcareous materials as major and natural cellulose reinforced, forming in Hatschek process and high pressure (7000 tons and fumigation(in autoclave for 24 hours),Which has the advantages of high strength, light weight, anti- freeze, water-resist, fire-proof, damp-proof, sound-absorption , no distortion and no radiation Used assuspended ceiling, partition, heat insulating board, base plate, external wall panel, exterior wall cladding, paneling, flooring, back-liners, skirting lines, prefabricated structures, door shutters

 

Specifications

non asbestos calcium silicate board 
1)Outstanding Fire Resistance 
2)Efficient Thermal Resistatant

3.5 --- 12 mm wall partition ceiling decoration calcium silicate board  

Specification

Size

2440*1220mm;

Thickness

4.5 to 12mm

Surface treatment

With or without sanded surface; bevelled

Custom Specifications available on request

edges available

Outstanding characteristics

Environmental friendly, 100% asbestos-free or     3%containing, outstanding fire

resistance, high tensile and bending strength,     remarkable moisture resistance,

stable dimension, durable, excellent heat insulation     and soundproofing, easy

Installation

Main     usage

Partitioning wall, ceiling tile

Other     usage

Protecting wall system, movable floor, countertop,   panel

billboard, kitchen and bathroom wall,

pipeline insulation

Physical     property

Raw material

Tobermorite, cement, Quartz sand,  fiber

Density  

 1.1-1.3 g/cm3

Flexural strength

>13 Mpa; real test >15 Mpa (GB/T7019-1997)

Moisture content      

 <10%< span="">

Fire rating test

Class A incombustible material

(GB8624)

Soundproofing

45-55 dB (GBJ75-84)

Thermal conductivity

≤0.3W/MK (JC/T564)

 Radiation

Accordance with standard

(GB6566-2001)

Incombustibility

    4 h

Moisture movement

≤0.25% (GB/T7019-1997)

Dry shrinking rate

<0.09%(GB/T7019-1997)

Application

Commercial, industrial, and apartment buildings


   
 
   

 

Application: 


partition & ceiling in office, supermarket, hotel, hospital, gymnasium, school, stations; interior wallboard in carriage, marine structure, shipping vessel which need fire-proof, heat insulation and damp-proof

Materials: Tobermorite, lime, Quartz sand, wood fiber

Fire-proof rate: A-class incombustible (GB8624-1997)

Incombustibility: 240 minutes (GB/T9978-1999)                                                                                      

Density: 1.2-1.4g/cm3

Moisture:<10%< span="">

Heat conduction: 0.24W/MK (Jc/t564) Average

Sound-absorption: 45db (GBJ75-84)

Anti-bend strength: >15MPa (GB/T7019-1997)

Moisture movement rate:<0.19% (GB/T7019-1997)

 

Installation:

(1) Lightweight and high strength: 3-4 kg/m2 (1/10 of half brick wall), with yield strength 400mpa.

(2) Environment-friendly : galvanized steel-no radiation, have no harm to our health and not pollute the environment.

(3) Products with fillisters : Setting some fillisters in both sides of the keels in a selective way, in order to strength the keels' vertical points and intensity.

(4) The metal stud with hole : one of our product is the special hole on C-stud every 600mm, which is easy for workers to install the electric lines and water tubes.

(5) Various sizes of metal track and metal stud : we are able to manufacture German,Japanand Aus-American types etc..We can meet your customized demands.

(6) Factory direct sale price : We have our own factory to produce raw materials----galvanized(zinc coated) steel, as well as the product line, so we can provide you a lowest price.

 

FAQ

1.Sample: small sample can be offered by free

2.OEM: OEM is accepted

3.MOQ: small order is ok

4.Test: any third party is accepted to test

5.Factory: Can visit factory any time

6.Delivery Time: small order is within 7days or according to your order



Q:Its all gonna get covered with mortar anyway when I put the tile on, right? So.... Is it NECESSARY to mortar the joints before hand or not?
Nothing is necessary of you don't care about water damage. If you care about doing a good quality job that insures that the area is watertight then mud the joints. Remember that water is the worst enemy of a house next to termites. You would be surprised to see what a hairline crack can do to the structure of a house. Not to mention the mold and the insurability of a home. Water damage on an insurance record is shared on a national database of insurers and when its there, good luck every getting insurance.
Q:could someone please recommend (a) thin set, manufacturer, brand, this is a bathroom application. perhaps a Lowe's or home depot product.
Custom Building products, sold at Home Depot is what I ve used for years.. You can use the white or grey, just that the grey is just a bit cheaper too. For porcelains you ll want the Flexbond line in the Custom thin set. It s the one recommended for porcelains. Also in the past I ve used H B Fuller s Tec lines of thin sets. love that line, it mixes to a nice creamy consistancy. But its not as available to the public and more expensive. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q:We have drywall in our kitchen that was painted with a smooth semi-gloss paint a good 8 yrs ago. We'd like to install 3x6 tumbled marble as a backsplash over the drywall. It's about 1/4 thick so probably slightly heavier than say, the tiny square glass tiles that come on a 12x12 netting. One person at the Home Depot said we could just sand and scrape up the drywall and then apply the thinset and install the marble. Another said we might want to use a cement backing. We aren't really DIYers and would so we don't want to create extra work with the cement backing if it isn't needed. That said, we don't want the drywall to start peeling and the marble tiles to start falling off after a short amount of time. Please advise. Thank you!
I would recommend screwing wonder board over the drywall before putting the tile up. This will give you a long lasting application. It will not up your cost a whole lot and you will be much happier in the long run.
Q:the cement board is made of cement-bonded paper sludge
I'm not sure but, I know under direct heat concrete tends to explode.
Q:How the cement pressure plate sticks on the brick
Pre-shop: First of all, should be based on the design requirements of the drawings, the tiles of color, texture, surface formation and other rigorous selection, and then in accordance with the requirements of the pre-shop drawings. For the pre-shop may appear in the size, color, texture error, etc. to adjust, exchange, until the best results, according to paving smoothly stacked neatly spare. Paving: laying the selection of 1: 3 dry hard cement mortar, mortar thickness of about 25mm. Paving before the tiles on the back of the wet, to be a dry front is appropriate Put the tiles in accordance with the requirements on the cement mortar, with a rubber hammer tapping the floor finishes until the dense formation to meet the requirements.
Q:60 thick foam cement board Ⅱ how much noise
Product density is light, the volume of dry, the density of about 250kg / cubic, the board through the National Testing Center 1.5 million times the anti-fatigue vibration test, the board and the steel structure as a whole, can reach 9 earthquake.
Q:I can jump atleast 4 or 5 inches on a rug,grass, mud, sand. but i cant on cement when i ollie on cement my board like slips away after i pop and on everything else it doesnt. help?
its because ur afraid, u dont have a soft surface anymore and thats making you nervous take ur time. focus on ur wieght distrubtion and the pop, everything is done the same. dont worry relax, the hardest part of skateboarding are the mental blocks, if u dont think u can do it, u wont. if u think u can, then at least u have a chance. just tell yourself over and over its easy and that you can do it. dont give up on the first few tries keep trying ull get it. i suppose i can tell u why the board is slipping away, but a real skater would figure it out himself. 1 your not putting enough pressure on your back foot 2 ur not snaping it down hard enough as you jump 3 ur popping it back instead of down. 4 you just plain suck (no im just kidding) skateboarding is all about commitment
Q:My fear is that I will trap moisture where it shouldn't be. Is there such a thing as overkill?
Tile council of America calls for a vapor barrier behind the cement board ..The red guard your talking about should and must be used on any horizontal surface in a wet area.. There are other agents like red guard but I v used it many times and had great luck w/ it..Making sure the proper pitch is used for the horizontal surface GL
Q:in my new bath/shower i'm using hardibacker cement board. what should i use for the rest of the bathroom walls
It all depends on your budget. If you can afford cement board throughout the bathroom, then by all means do it; it's designed for the moisture rich environment of bathroom. However, ordinary drywall works just as well. That's how I boarded the three bathrooms in my house.
Q:What is the prc in the building?
PRC (Pore Reduced Cement) is a high-performance cement material, it is in the process, performance, use, etc. have many unique advantages

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