• Non-asbestos Fireproof 12 mm Fiber Cement Board System 1
  • Non-asbestos Fireproof 12 mm Fiber Cement Board System 2
  • Non-asbestos Fireproof 12 mm Fiber Cement Board System 3
  • Non-asbestos Fireproof 12 mm Fiber Cement Board System 4
Non-asbestos Fireproof 12 mm Fiber Cement Board

Non-asbestos Fireproof 12 mm Fiber Cement Board

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
100 pc
Supply Capability:
10000 pc/month

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Non-asbestos Fireproof 12 mm Fiber Cement Board

 

Fiber cement board, using high quality fiber and mineral substances as main content,was made with forming by advanced technique & technological process & through high temperature & high pressure maintenance & special treatment.

Fiber cement board, using high quality fiber and mineral substances as main content,was made with forming by advanced technique & technological process & through high temperature & high pressure maintenance & special treatment.

 

 

 

 

Non-asbestos Fireproof 12 mm Fiber Cement Board

 

Sound and Weather Resistant:

Karmeen fiber cement boards deliver optimal sound and weather insulation. Noise as well as changing weather conditions such as freeze / thaw, heat and water pose no threat to fiber cement board. The boards retain their shape at all times.


Low Maintenance:

The ability of the boards to resist mold and algae attacks is equally impressive. The result is a long-lived façade that saves you time and effort on inconvenient and costly repairs and repaints. 


Non-combustible:

The boards are non-combustible, which is your guarantee for a safe building.


Easy Handling:

Karmeen fiber cement boards are flexible and easy to handle. They can be delivered cut to size, ready for installation. All this makes for lower construction costs, shorter construction times, and lower installed costs. 

 

Board Edge:

Non-asbestos Fireproof 12 mm Fiber Cement Board 

 

 

Packaging Details:
Fumigation wooden pallets+PE cover + corner protector

Non-asbestos Fireproof 12 mm Fiber Cement Board

 

Non-asbestos Fireproof 12 mm Fiber Cement Board

 

Q:What are the fiberboard specifications? Fiber cement board thick
According to industry standards JC / T412.2--2006, fiber cement board is the industry's formal name, the domestic commonly used is 1200 * 2400mm * 4 - 30mm
Q:i have an old cement wall house, i have tar paper on the outer walls and plan on putting 1 or 1 1/2 thick ridge insulation on the walls. These are above grade walls not basement.My question is do i have to vapor barrier the walls or just tape the seams of the foam insulation.thanks in advance
If you already have tar paper (roofing felt, I presume), thats a vapor barrier. You don't need another. You can caulk the joints between the boards if you'd like.
Q:The doors of a cement cabinet can not be mounted directly on a cement board
Carpenter and the tile workers are necessary to reconcile early harmony, began to plan how to do the door, tile workers in the cabinet, to follow the carpenter's volunteer. The organization of the cabinet should be used in science, and the whole function of the cabinet should be taken into account. When we were doing a clay cabinet in our house, the carpenter and the tileworker had already had a collaboration, so this was a very good harmony. Master Huang said he did the cement cabinet is the most scientific best use, it is important that is, if the cabinet dirty, can directly take the water washed, because no wood exposed, not afraid of wood will be rotten.
Q:hi, this is my question:To prevent a cement mixer sinking into soft ground, the mixer is placed on a large flat board. Why does this prevent the mixer sinking?the answer will be one of these, which one is it?A The large area decreases the pressure on the ground.B The large area increases the pressure on the ground.C The large area decreases the weight on the ground. D The large area increases the weight on the ground.
None of the above. The pressure and weight on the ground is greater with a board under the mixer. However, the board distributes the weight across a larger surface area thereby reducing the pressure at any given point.
Q:Directly on the cement board to brush the glass can you!
Yes, but before the brush to re-clean the cement, can not have dust, or paint easy to fade.
Q:Is a vapor barrier needed behind cement board in a shower?
We put up this green plastic that we got at home depot
Q:What do I do
it may be broke
Q:Why different buildings sound a lot worse?
200mm above the thickness of the solid reinforced concrete wall insulation volume and 240mm clay brick wall insulation volume close to 150 ~ 180mm thick concrete wall of the volume of about 47 ~ 48dB, but the surface density of 200kg / m2 reinforced concrete perforated plate, The volume is below 45dB.
Q:I've removed the old cement boards and I've put new ones up on the shower walls. My tile will not go to the ceiling. I'm at the step where I need to apply thin-set and tape to all of the cement board seems. What do I do at the seem that transitions from cement board to sheet rock?
Use Hardibacker and seal the seams with tape and thinset. Use thinset to set the tile using 1/4 spacers. I have used and recommend that you use a tile sealer to seal the slate prior to grouting and to use epoxy grout. The grout is more difficult to install but requires no sealers which need to be redone at least once a year in a shower and is well worth the initial time and effort. Be sure to read and follow the directions on the grout bags to ensure a uniform color and good grout set. MT C
Q:I removed old tile from my bathroom walls as well as the old vinyl flooring. Underneath the vinyl was cement backerboard, which is good. But all around the outer edges where the wall tile used to be, is a 1 inch gap where the floor board are showing. How do I get this gap filled? Do I need to rip up the old cement backerboard and start over? Can I cut small strips of new backerboard to slip in the crevice? Is there a compound I can fill the gap with? Any help out there?
If you have the backer board yes you can rip it and put it in. If you do not you can use some of the thinset you (should use) are going to put the tiles down with. Just mix it a little more dry than it calls for (not too dry) and fill this area in and let it dry for a day. Then go back and tile away. The only reason I am not telling you to go out and buy another product is that if it is along the wall edges and it is only an inch its a waste of time and money, you will be fine.

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