• Asbesto Free Fiber Cement Board System 1
  • Asbesto Free Fiber Cement Board System 2
  • Asbesto Free Fiber Cement Board System 3
  • Asbesto Free Fiber Cement Board System 4
Asbesto Free Fiber Cement Board

Asbesto Free Fiber Cement Board

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Products Introduction:

Sanle fiber cement board is made of high-grade cement and modified material, reinforced by natural fiber. Being processed by high pressure and high temperature advanced technologies, Sanle fiber cement board is a new building material with excellent performances.

Features

Fire Proof & Insulation
Class A non-inflammability, no toxic gas, low in perveance, good electric insulation material

Waterproof and Moisture Proof
In semi-outdoor area and under high temperature condition, performance of Sanle boards is stable and will not bend or deform.

Thermal Insulation and Sound Insulation
Low thermal conductivity, good heat insulation, high in density, sound proof

Light weight & High strength
Pressured by 5000-ton hydraulic machine, it is high in strength and light in weight. It is not easy to deform and bend, and good for flooring and roofing.

Easy installation
The installation of boards is dry operation, which is faster. It can be processed with ordinary wood working tool. The board is easy to be processed.

Economical and Good looking
The boards are light in weight. Together with the use of keels, they can save cost of construction and decoration. The painting is uniform, and the surface is smooth, making the exterior of buildings good-looking and attractive.

Safe and Harmless
Test result of Sanle boards is better than national radiation protection standards of building materials. The radiation from Sanle boards is equal to that from the lawn 20 meters away from the building. The lifespan of Sanle boards is very long, and they are resistant to acid and alkali, moisture and insects. The toughness and strength remains the same when time passes by. So they can be used for a long time.

Easy to install and easy to replace
Sanle boards can be drilled, cut, engraved, nailed, painted and covered by tiles or sticker when necessary..

Product parameters

Item

Unit

Requirement

Medium density

High density

Density

g/cm3

1.2<D1.5

1.5<D2.0

Water absorption

%

30

25

Non-combustibility

GB 8624-2006, grade A

wet expansion

%

0.25

Beding strength

dry

MPA

Strength grade class III

20

Strength grade class IV

24

Saturation with water

12

14

Applications

Exterior side boards, indoor partition walls, sound-proof ceiling, decoration boards, complex walls, outdoor billboards, division boards and floor boards



Q:is there an easier way than just hammering to break it up until we ache? By old school we mean the house was built in the 50's and there is some type of chicken wire material in it.
Sure - you could do a hole-patching with thinset - you might put in a little fiberglass mesh too. I can't imagine why that wouldn't work just fine.
Q:Is there anything you can add to cement which will increase insulating power?I guess asbestos is illegal and I am not even sure how much it would work, but I was wondering if there isnt something out there that will add R value to cement if you add it to the mix without substantially reducing the strength of the cement itself.
thickness...the thicker the concrete, the better it will insulate
Q:do i have to use cement board under tile on a shower wall?
It would be a good idea to put some water proofing under the cement board. Cement board is only somewhat water resistant. Some types are worse than others. But if you put roofing felt behind the cement board the wall is much more water tight.
Q:can i put ceramic tile on laun board in kitchen and will it stick ok?
You can do anything. But you should not do this. Use wonder board for tile. Dur Rock. Cement board. Whatever you want to call it. I can tell you 100's of horror stories from people who didn't do this. Your job will look great maybe a year if you don't then the inevitable cracks, shifts and unevenness will appear. You need a firm hard thick solid surface for tile.
Q:We have a home built in 1999 in the Gulf Coast area. On either side of the front entrance are flat cement board posts and above is a lintel. Last year I noticed the lintel was starting to have a gap between the brick and lintel itself as well as pulling away the top of one of the posts. I used heavy-duty exterior adhesive to try to reattach (used the ladder against it as pressure). I caulked and painted afterwards. Now, the separation is back, but much worse. I'm not even sure who to call to look at this. If I know why this happened, I could better figure out the next steps. Any ideas (I can find nothing through my research).
it sounds like subsidance , the house is sinking /settling this could be a very serious problem if the foundations are sub standard you need to get an engineer to carry out a survey now to acess whats the cause of the movement
Q:I bought some plaster which is to be used for a wall stenciling project. Is this type plaster ok to use to stick tiles on the kitchen wall as well? I PLAN TO REMOVE THE TILES WHEN WE MOVE, so thought this type of plaster may--or probably will be easy to work with when removing the tiles later in a year or two? Please advise, thanks
It okorder You should be just fine!
Q:do i need mortar under the cement board?
no you just screw it to the wall or studs. then after its up you tape and mortar the joints with special mortar and tape. then you tile or put you tub surround up over it
Q:in my new bath/shower i'm using hardibacker cement board. what should i use for the rest of the bathroom walls
Go ahead and finish the rest of the bathroom with hardibacker. You will never have a mold problem thats more than paint deep, or if you tile the walls, which you can now do cause you used hardibacker board mold will never get further than the grout. You made a good choice, any space thats prone to moisture calls for a cement type backing and hardibacker is so much easier to cut than the other products.
Q:Cement fiberboard dry hanging practice?
Clean up the structure of the surface → the structure of the vertical line → large angle hanging two vertical steel wire → structural drilling and insert the expansion bolt → angle steel fixture → fixed vertical steel pipe → connecting the horizontal angle steel → connecting the horizontal aluminum keel → adjust and fixed → dry Hanging fiber cement pressure plate (aluminum back sheet on the back of the board installed in advance) → horizontal vertical adjustment → surface cleaning (column part of the panel seal sealant)

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