Reinforced Fiber Cement Board Usd For Wall

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Product Description:

Product Applications:

UV Siding Fiber Cement Board
1. Cheaper Than Marble, Bigger Than Ceramics
2. High Density Fiber Cement Board As Substrat

UV Siding Fiber Cement Board

1. Cheaper Than Marble, Bigger Than Ceramics
2. High Density Fiber Cement Board As Substrat

Ideal Substitute of Marble or Ceramics, Because of The Low Price, Lighter Weight, and Bigger Size of Our Product.


Product Advantages:

1. High density fiber cement board as substrate.

2. UV painting on the surface, Various of Patterns Includes Marble, Wooden, and Solid, Glossy and        Matt for Every Pattern.

3. For Interior Wall and Ceiling Only.

4. Widely used in Hospitals, Hotels, Schools, Offices, Subways, and Laboratories.


Fireproof:  "ASTM-E84 FLAME SPREAD INDEX"  =   0,              STANDARD   <=  25

Smoke:     "ASTM-E84 SMOKE DEVELOPED INDEX" =5,            STANDARD   <= 25

Weather Test:  "ASTM-G155"  =  4,                                          STANDARD (3,5)

Main Product Features:


Standard Size: 1.22M*2.44M / 4'*8'

Thickness: 6MM

Weight: 30Kg

Surface Hardness: 3H


Product Specifications:









(Weathering Test)




(Flexural Strength) (Dry)




(Flexural Strength)(Saturated)




(Water Absorption)




(Wet Expansion)






Reinforced  Fiber  Cement  Board  Usd For Wall

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Q:Home decoration decoration in the cement pressure board hanging wire network doing what?
This is mainly due to the surface of the cement pressure plate is too smooth, the use of barbed wire, you can increase the surface of the putty layer of the structural strength, to prevent wall cracking.
Q:How do you repair cement board aka wonderboard?
Just like with drywall. And since you've already done that, you're in familiar territory. It's only the materials that are a little strange. You could do a little research on patching holes that size in drywall, just substitute wonderboard everywhere it says drywall and be well served. You can cut some patches out of scrap wonderboard to fill the holes you've made, and pin them in place by inserting screws in the gap between original and patch. If you want a little more security, add some lumber in the space of the wall to bridge the gap and attach your patch to the lumber. Then just butter the gap with mortar or grout mix. Sand with a concrete stone, job's done. Let the tiling begin. Good luck with it.
Q:Can tiles be attached to gypsum board?
In the cut off the plate, can play a moisture-resistant role is the fiber cement board (Eide board). It is a fiber reinforced silicate plate, the main raw material is cement, plant fiber and minerals, by the high temperature autoclaved pressure, mainly used as building materials.
Q:WHy is it necessary to mud the Joints between Cement board in a tub/shower stall if they are gonna be mortered
Nothing is necessary of you don't care about water damage. If you care about doing a good quality job that insures that the area is watertight then mud the joints. Remember that water is the worst enemy of a house next to termites. You would be surprised to see what a hairline crack can do to the structure of a house. Not to mention the mold and the insurability of a home. Water damage on an insurance record is shared on a national database of insurers and when its there, good luck every getting insurance.
Q:Is there anything you can add to cement which will increase insulating power?
thickness...the thicker the concrete, the better it will insulate
Q:how to construct a lean to roof to a cement wall?
Youve got the right idea, but your lumber selection is too small. If this is going to be room sized... that is, at least 10ft x 10ft, make the ledger board at least a 2x6, or 2x8. (I prefer the 2x8 myself). Use joist hangers to attach the lean-to rafters (also 2x6) to the ledger board. This is a lot stronger, and easier, than 'toe nailing' the rafters to the ledger. You will want to anchor the ledger board to the cement block wall, oversized 'mollies', or tapcons will work just fine... put a little construction adhesive on the back side of the 2x too. I like to use 6x6 posts, but if this addition isnt very large, 4x4's will work. Set them 2 feet into the ground with concete, minimal, to get below most frost lines. I like to run a top sill plate, with at least one 2x6 under it, attached to the posts, to support it. I make the sill plate wide enough to cover the post, and the sill ledger. Notch the rafter joists to match the angle on the sill plate. and again, use some form of joist hanger, or hurricane tie. (the hurricane ties work well at this end of the rafter joist. Next step depends on how you are going to roof the structure. If you are going to use sheetmetal roofing, then you will want to install some 1x material. I like to use 1x6, or 1x8 and split it on my table saw. (costs less than buying 1x3's). If you are going to shingle, then you need to sheathe it with 3/4 exterior grade plywood. If it is very large, use tongue and groove, or plywood clips. Cover with a good felt paper, install your drip edge, and apply shingles. (Run a row of shingles around the perimeter, and don't forget the flashing where the roof meets the wall) Have Fun (I'll add this here - If you are setting the posts on a concrete footer or slab, instead of in the ground, use a metal base. They can be found near the joist hangars, and such in any building supply store.)
Q:Is removing cement board flooring hazardous?
You have a minor concern. Wear a respirator if possible. At least a dust mask. If the board was properly put down you also have to scrape up thin set under the board.Thin set also contains silica Plastic off all doors, cabinets vents ( hot and cold) and cover furniture. You ll do a better job at doing this than any one you hire. Or you cover it and hire some one. It s hard, very dusty job. Usually a one time deal isn t a concern ( as long as you take precautions) unless you have breathing problems. I ve dealt with doing this sort of work for 20+ years and no problem. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar. GL
Q:can you use cement board as a subfloor?
No, it will not with any consistency. What you need to use is 3/8 partical board over your 3/4 plywood. You can find partical board in 1/4 but it is expensive and hard to find. This is typically used as a substrate material for all lino/vinyl tiles. As long as the partical board is clean and free of loose dirt, the self-stick tiles will work fine.
Q:Why is the peeling paint on the cement board?
No, how can you use a cement board to ceiling? Faint nonsense! Cement board see a cloudy day there will be a lot of moisture, interior wall putty with the interior latex paint to see the tide off, brush glue is useless. You do not believe in a piece of cement board on the room, cloudy rain when you look, is not told me the same, thank you hope to adopt
Q:What is the easiest way to put down cement backer board prior to laying ceramic floor tile?
I've done it. And The kind of screws you need are not so specialized. Simple drywall screws. About 5 to 8 bucks for a box depending on their length. Now since you say you have no intention of pulling up the old vinyl flooring, and that the subflooring is plywood, I would seriously reconsider. If you are doing it this way out of sheer laziness, then dont do it at all. Also, why are you using cement backerboard for a floor? This is normally used in areas that will constantly be wet, such as a shower wall, steam room, etc. For the floor, and take it from me as I have done this before, and have worked with pros doing this as well. Rip out the vinyl flooring. Its extra work, but hey, do it right the first time not half... well you get the picture. Then once you have that done, you are left with the bare subfloor, typically Plywood or Particle board. Check to see if it is level first, if this is a new house, check to see if it is level anyways. Now, lay down over lapping layers of roofing paper. They should be overlapped by 4 inches. Nail them in place, dont glue or screw it down. Now that you have a good surface to start with, you can now begin your prep work for laying down your tile. Ok, so now you are probably asking, well, why not just leave the vinyl tile under it all, whats the difference. Well, right now, you may not think that it is, but later on you will. The thickness of that tile, plus the cement backerboard, or roofing paper will not transition decently into your adjacent rooms, and it will not look good. And yes, it will make a big difference. If you have any questions on how to go about laying the tile down, any tips, etc... feel free to ask.

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