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FAQ

What is the preferred method of installing an engineered wood floor over a concrete slab? Float or glue & why?

First things first. You need to test your slab for moisture that could cause a problem later. Take either aluminum foil or plastic 16 x 16 squares and duct tape them down over slab. Seal all edges tight to slab. Now wait 24hrs.then pull up squares to see if there is any moisture either on the slab or on the back of the squares. If there is - do not install the engineered wood floor. Even if you install a floating pad this moisture will eventually penetrate the foam underlayment and get into the flooring. If there is no evidence of moisture I would proceed with the floating floor system. Using glue can create problems if you should ever loose your heating system in cold weather such as from a storm. The wood and the concrete react differently to temp changes and this could cause the floor to buckle.

Can anybody tell me some difference between hardwood floors and engineered floors?

Solid Wood: today most people consider solid logs cut to size and finished with a Tongue & a groove to be Real wood usually at least 3 wide & at least 3/8 thick. sizes bigger that 4 are called planks & thicknesses from 5/8 up to 1 1/4 are all common & readily available. Almost all solid wood floors require nailing to keep the wood in place ad they are still very susceptible to swelling in the wet & heat & shrinking apart in the cool & the dry. Engineered Wood: Looks like Plywood (it's NOT) with one side finished with a high quality species & a great factory applied finish and or stain. The engineered wood starts with anywhere from 3-10 layers of veneer glued together under very high heat & pressure. The top layer is usually the most premium of all the veneers & is often thicker than all the rest. The veneer, boards are referred to as engineered, since they are man made and built for a specific purpose, like flooring. Engineered wood is actually harder, stronger & much more stable than the same thickness of solid wood. It can also be glued down in areas where nailing is not possible like slab floors & basements. Engineered wood also resists swelling & bowing, because the layers are rotated in different directions as the boards are laid up before they are heated & pressed together. Environmentally the engineered wood uses less wood & the veneering process leaves almost no wasted wood and no sawdust. Once its on the floor even most experts cant tell the difference & the price is about the same for a good solid or a top of the line engineered. Save the money, the swelling & cracking and the forest & go with the engineered if you find a color or style that you like.

We have tried a floor scraper - did not do the job. We have tried an air chisel - did not do the job. The only sure way so far is a flat end crowbar and a sledge hammer and a lot of sweat.

the floor scrappers are too wide and the air chisel - yeah doesn't work well either. unfortunately, after my home flooded we had to do the same thing! here is what we used.... wonder bar and a hammer and two screwdrivers - one large and one smaller.... get to the edge pound in little screwdriver near the seam, larger one toward the other side/middle. rock upward once in and then get the wonderbar in.... then pound away at that. it takes forever.... 3 guys 2 full days AND that doesn't inclued the hallway and 3x18 area i'd already done.... it was a royal PITA!! good luck!

nan

Fire preventionNot extinguished cigarette butts and matches, can not be lost on the ground, electric stove, electric cooker, electric iron, electric iron, in place for fire and burn proof cushion, are not free to put on it, otherwise, easy to burn wood floor. Can not wipe off the dust on the surface of the oil, dirt, in order to prevent static friction, causing fire.

I am building a new house, and I have two large dogs. The house is a $200k smaller home with very nice appliances, granite counter tops, etc. Anyways, I have two large dogs who have scratched up the hardwood(not terribly) in my condo, so I am thinking about putting in the engineered flooring. I have been to lumber wholesalers, and it isn't really much cheaper than hardwood, but it is my understanding that it is much more durable. It seems to look and feel like hardwood, and I have heard that the engineered floors have come a long way, but I'm paranoid that it's going to look cheap. Would putting in the engineered flooring be a mistake?

I would go with conventional hardwood floors since they can be refinished many times where as the engineered flooring can only be refinished once or twice. Laminate can't be refinished at all and once it is scratched you are stuck with the scratches. My son has engineered flooring in his house and is considering having it refinished. The big concern is the skill of the re-finisher. A little too much sanding and you are through the top lay and into the not so attractive lower plies. As a matter of interest we went through this same set of questions several years ago when we built our current house. We finally chose ceramic tile for the whole first floor. We put down area rugs to make it more attractive and easier to walk in certain areas. We have not found all of the tales about ceramic tile to be true. It is not extra cold, things don't break more easily on the tile and with the area rugs you get plenty of color and they are much easier to either replace or have cleaned.

Used an Ofla blade to cut underlayment ontop of the new engineered hard wood i just layed down last week. (i know stupid move, i know) Is there anyway to get rid of the cut mark? i just cut into the top layer of finish so its just showing a white line. It's about 4 ft long, super thin, but you can defiantly notice a thin white line. Any home remedies or stuff i could ask for at my local store?

Well the bad thing about engineered hardwood flooring is that the finish layer is extremely thin veneer, if it is veneer. So of these flooring products have a vinyl surface of sorts similar to contact paper and just as thin. You can aesthetically repair the surface using a wipe stain process you can't truly repair the scratch but you can make it blend in and with a few coats of water based polyurethane applied with a q tip and then immediately wiped so that you don't have a build up you can seal the repair. Be careful when you do this so as to not soak the area this will cause it to swell and lift the surface.

Because the house is to be demolished, the new solid wood flooring is not a pity, so I would like to ask if we can get the floor to the new premises again?

Solid wood flooring is a natural wood after drying, processing of the formation of ground decorative materials. Also known as log flooring, wood is directly processed into the floor. It is the natural growth of the wood texture, is a poor conductor of heat, can play a role, cool comfortable and safe use, is an ideal material for the bedroom, living room, room decoration

nan

Solid wood flooring: more commonly used in home decoration. Has the advantages of pure wood, material temperature, Juegan good, true nature. Smooth and uniform surface coating, size, large selection. Disadvantages: the floor is delicate and dry wood, easy to shrink after damp, resulting in anti deformation phenomenon, the installation of more trouble, maintenance difficulties and prices are relatively high. ? - wood flooring: wood composite floors are beautiful natural wood floors, comfortable and good insulation performance strengths; and overcome the real wood floor for monomer shrinkage, easy Qiqiao cracks deficiencies. In addition, the installation of wood flooring is simple, under normal circumstances do not play keel. Cork flooring is made from oak bark, so it is also a solid wood composite board. Compared with solid wood flooring, cork floors environmentally, its resistance is better, but does not decay, after a rigorous survey, it can even shop in the bathroom, the disadvantage is soft, easy to damage the wear-resisting layer quality is not good.