High Rupturing Capacity Fuse

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FAQ

I have a 1999 ford escort station wagon 4-cylinder 2 liter engine. i had a problem with the fuse that powers my dash lights and tail lights frying and the wirring to my ASl component are fried. now whenever i touch my brakes it blows multiple fuses so that my transmission locks up,my engine shuts off and will not start back up without new fuses. could my ASL component cause all of this to happen or is it the cars main computer messing up?

Sounds like a loom problem (wiring) , you could start by tracing the wiring back from the tail lights and look for any broken wiring and any wiring that should b bolted to the chassis. Hope this helps

I have a 2005 Impala LS 3.8L engine with a stock alternator and a 100amp under-hood fuse. I don't know how many amps this alternator puts out. I will probably be getting a bigger fuse but I need to know what size too. I plan on getting 0 gauge power wire and a Hifonics ZRX2000.1D amp. The 15 L7's are 1,000watts RMS a piece so I will constantly be running 2,000watts at 1ohm. So if you could tell me what kind of alternator I need that will fit my car and how big of a fuse, I would greatly appreciate it. Any other advice is nice too! Thanks!

Actually they really are 2000 a piece depending on how you set the gain with a lot of watts to it. 100 amp fuse is awfully small for that system, you need to get up to 250 or 300 amps if you plan to run 1 ohm an another thing what ohm are the subs?? cause if they are 2 ohm subs then you're gonna need a amp for each sub.

Hi everyone, i hope you can help me out but i have a 92 grand am with a OHC quad 4 engine, 179407mi. I am trying to start it up and the engine turns good but not cracking up, Put new spark plugs and reconnect the ignition components back up, except there is a red wire tip clamp that needs to be connected back up, (WHICH IT WAS ALREADY OFF BEFORE TAKING COVER TOP OFF) i look and look and look for find where is goes and cant, also when you turn the key to the ON position i don't hear the fuel pump hums like it usually does, I ran outta gas a few times and wonder did the fuel pump shut off? or going bad? or just a relay/fuse? which i hoping that it is a relay/fuse, so please anyone can you tell where i can find the fuse/relay? and what does it looks like? and any more tips i need to know?

Sounds like the fuel pump fuse.try looking under the dash or on the side of the dash when you open the door.if it isn't there it will be under the hood.I would reccomend you go to your local autozone and purchase a $15 book on your car!! not only will it help you find those pesky relays and fuses.but it will also have a wiring diagram to show you where that disconnected wire goes.but don't fret if you can't find that because sometimes car manufacturers use wiring harnesses for different cars and option packages and that wire may not be used for your vehicle.although given it's location my guess isthat it goes somewhere.Buy a book if you are going to be doing your own work on the car.it is a invaluable investment!!!!!!!!!

connectors on the backglass. no damage to the defroster grid. is there an inline fuse in the lift gate that i might have missed, or could the switch be bad and still light up?

Tony. You checked the connections properly. One is power, the other is ground at the connectors. Did you look at the wiring harness where it goes through to the tailgate? This is a common place for wires to break from repeated opening/closing of the gate. The switches are usually reliable. Any fuses for the circuit should be either under hood or dash. Your owners manual should show you where. If you have anymore questions or need advise give me an e-mail. UPDATEThere is a technical service bulletin regarding this problem. It involves the diagnosis of the grid. It has a different grid power distribution. Bulletin # 04-08-48-001B

After putting in a new stereo, my instrument panel lights will not come on. All the maintenance lights will turn on upon starting the car, but once started, I cannot see the speedometer or any of that stuff. The lights for the heat/AC knobs won't illuminate either. The 12volt does light up, as does the stock clock and the new stereo. I am not sure if there is a fuse for this, I looked through the manual and found nothing to indicate that there would be. I have checked the dimmer dial to make sure it's all the way on. Nothing was unplugged other than the stereo components so I'm not sure what happened. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I am sure that your crv had blown fuse, do you install stereo with oem one or after market? on back of stereo there is red and black wire may shot when you cut during install after market stereo. always disconnect battery ( - ) cable to working on electric on the car. check your manual again carefully look for parking light fuse,under hood fuse box or and kick panel under dash. good luck.

Hi, I've had a lot of problems with my bike and I know I need a new one. Don't need to be told that. I own a 2005 R50x 50cc scooter. On my way home, the lights went off and the 'dash' went off including the rpm gauge. The horn, starter and full beam still work though. The fuse is fine and it isn't the battery. If anyone has a clue please let me know and the location of the components that may be affected. FYI, all the electrical bits are in the front not under the seat. Many thanks

it sounds like the side light fuse, but could be the earth wire to the lights,check earth connections, quick test get a piece of wire hold it to neg - on battery or bare metal on frame with ignition lights on touch the other end to side of the bulb if light comes on its a bad earth

I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla which the Toyota dealership claims has damage caused by jumping the car incorrectly. They say the car was damaged due to reversed polarity. I took the car to the local Autozone to have a free electrical system check before taking it to the Toyota dealership. Is it possible that the Autozone tech caused the damage by incorrectly testing the electrical system? Thanks for your help.

With Toyota's if the polarity is reversed it will blow the 100 amp fuse and usually the 15 amp EFI. These protect the more expensive components. I have personally seen the polarity reversed briefly with no sparks, smoke or battery explosion. Jumper cables are hooked up every day with no battery explosions,but there is always the possibilty. I have never seen anything else cause the 100 amp fuse to blow. So the answer is yes it is possible. Look at the battery posts and cable ends to see if there are arc marks or melted lead.

I just purchased an corsair 750W power supply, and the input is mentioned as 90-264V 10A, Now on the plug that connects to wall socket to power it says 13A 250V (UK Pin) Now i am using it in asia, using an simple adapter but inorder to plug other things like speakers and screen i am buying an surge protector (spike guard).Now at what Amp shall i buy spike guard ? Rated 15A or 10A - As this is what available in my country. PS: The fuse power on the inbuilt fuse on the power plug is 13A. Also inform if i buy a 15A Spike guard and the usage say is only 10A is their a con like, smoking the pc components incase of sum overcurrent?

If the inbuilt fuse is 13 amp then you certainly wouldn't use a power supply rated below it.a 10 amp would be too less a power to kick off the 13 amp if you had a surge.You need one slightly higher rated then the 13 amp.so yes.it has to be a 15 amp surge protector