• CDC17 Series AC Contactor of High Quality System 1
  • CDC17 Series AC Contactor of High Quality System 2
CDC17 Series AC Contactor of High Quality

CDC17 Series AC Contactor of High Quality

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
50 pc
Supply Capability:
1000 pc/month

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1.Applicable Range

CDC17 series AC contactor is designed for long-distance making and breaking in circuit, frequently starting and controlling AC motor in the power system with frequency 50Hz/60Hz, rated insulation voltage up to 690V and rated operating voltage to 380V in Category AC-3. It also can be assembled with CDR7 or other thermal relay or electrical protection apparatus, as electron magnetic starter, to protect circuit against overload or phase breaking. It can also be used in the circuit with rated operating voltage of 660V when lowering adequate current.

2.Applicable Standards

National Standard: GB14048.4
International Standard: IEC 60947-4-1

3.Normal working and installation Conditions

1. Ambient temperature: It works within-5℃~+40℃, and the average temperature no more than +35℃ in 24 hours.
2. Altitude: No more than 2000m.
3. Atmosphere: Relative humidity no more than 50% at max.40 ℃, and it may be higher at a lower temperature. The lowest average temperature no more than 25℃ in the wettest month. The maximum average relative humidity of this month doesn't exceed 90℃. The change of temperature leading to dew on the product must be considered.
4. Mounting condition: The inclined angle between the mounting surface and the vertical surface no more than +22.5°;Contactor can be installed 35mm (no more than 32A and 115A、150A) type standard guideway by screwdriver.

4.Construction Features
  1. Small volume, light weight, less power-loss, long life span and beautiful feature
    2. shell is adopted excellent fire-resisting insulated material ,which can withstand high temperature and is safe and reliable
    3. Can be assembled with various components that were designed into module to extend its functions. The auxiliary modules installed in front side are: CDF4 auxiliary contact group, CDLA2, CDLA3 air time-delay head; that in lateral side are: auxiliary contact group and mechanical interlock.
    4. Can be connected with CDR7 (95 and below) and CDRE17 (125 and below) series thermal relay into electromagnetic starter without any connect-ing wire.

 

5.Pictures

 

 

 

Q:I have a 1999 ford escort station wagon 4-cylinder 2 liter engine. i had a problem with the fuse that powers my dash lights and tail lights frying and the wirring to my ASl component are fried. now whenever i touch my brakes it blows multiple fuses so that my transmission locks up,my engine shuts off and will not start back up without new fuses. could my ASL component cause all of this to happen or is it the cars main computer messing up?
its probably some wires that are touching the frame of the car or something, causing it to short out.
Q:I have a 1988 Jeep Comanche Sportruck and all of the gas, speed, etc gauges are not working. The lights that lit up the gauges used to work before I recharged my battery, since the jeep was left sitting for a couple months. But ever since I had the truck none of the speed, gas, and all the rest of the gauges have been reading/ working anything at all. What could the problem be and how could I fix this myself before having to go to a repair shop? Thank you for your help I've had this problem for so long and it's just time for me to fix this.
Check fuses, if not a fuse, replace the dashboard gauge circuit board. DISCUSSION: Check the simplest and cheapest things first (fuses). If it is not a fuse problem, the easiest (and possibly the cheapest) step is to replace the dashboard gauges with parts from a junk yard. You might have blown the voltage regulator on the dash board (not the voltage regulator associated with the alternator). The difficulty of getting out the old dashboard gauges, and replacing a single component is slightly more than the difficulty of getting out the old dashboard gauges and replacing the who dashboard gauge circuit board, gauges and all. You might have also blown some gauges, so even if you fix one component, you might have to go back in to fix more. It is better to recharge the battery when it is disconnected from the car (to avoid the possibility of blowing out sensitive electronics such as dash boards).
Q:i have a cb base on my home i was connectin the cb on my power supply and i put the wired rong i switch the way is supost to go and know the power swich goes on the cb wont go on i check fuse on power supply its good and radio is good in the fron of the power supply i have 2 button for positive and negative i think the problem is there fuse never burnplease help my question thank you god bless you
Does the power cord coming from the cb radio have a fuse? if so, it is probably blown. If it does not, then you may have fried a diod or other component on the cb radio circuit board.
Q:I have already checked the fuse and it is fine. If I bought some freon would that maybe get my air back on? If not, any ideas on what else could be be the problem?
Fan motor could be effected by a fruse/relay. If you have this working but still no cold air then you need to recharge your system.
Q:i have a 150cc 4-stroke scooter , At first it was starting fine but over time the stator fryed and hade to be replaced and after replacing it did not give any spark. so i tried changing the cdi and ignition coil . AND STILL NO SPARK any advice?
I wouldn't touch that scooter with a barge pole, it'll disintegrate in the space of 6 weeks, you will get a much nicer bike if you buy a used Japanese scooter instead; Yamaha, Honda, Suzuki. The Korean Kymco scooters are okay too. You'll need a couple of lessons before you are safe to ride on the road on your own but I would recommend a scooter between 125cc - 200cc unless you are under 16 years of age.
Q:I have a 30amp fuse that operates my door locks and power seats. I carry around a box of them because sometimes the fuse will last a couple of weeks, or days or hours. Any ideas of an easy fix?
Either you have an intermittent short to ground in the wiring or something on the circuit (motor, for example) is adding resistance and subsequently pulling excessive current because it is binding/starting to fail etc. and causing the circuit to overload and the fuse to pop. Is there anything else on the circuit that you know of? Do the power seats move smoothly and consistently on the tracks? Some cars have several motors that control the power seats so it can get complicated if one of them is the culprit. If it is not in the wiring and a component is causing it it sometimes it is easier to wait for the problematic component to take a sh*t and then just replace it. That's about the best that I can say over a computer. Good luck!
Q:E.C.M. stands for electronic control modal
Don't stick wires
Q:Any schematics would be very helpful, or an exact fuse location. I know it should be in the panel, but I do not have an owners manual. No power is getting to the fuel pump, but is getting to the sending unit. Thanks fo your help.
It is in the fuse box by the drivers left foot. you have to pull the fuse panel off and then the panel that it attaches to. In my car it was the black relay in the front of the fuse box. It isn't marked on the inside of the fuse panel.
Q:i just upgraded from a p200-2 to a t500.1 they are rockford amps. i had the p200 powering two alpine type r's. abc warehouse told me i was severely underpowering them and continuing to do so would ruin them. they hooked up 4 gauge wiring but kept my fuse and fuse holder. i plan on buying the bigger fuse holder and the 200 watt or voltage (idk how they measure them) fuse for the amp but i was wondering if i could use it for a couple weeks until i have the time and 40 bucks to buy and install these parts. they also told me that my jvc cd player doesnt have the right input for subs even tho ive been there 3 times with that same cd player and they never told me this. heres a list of my stuff. 2 alpine type r 12 inch subs in a q-logic ported box. a jvc cd player ( i payed round 150) a rockford t500.1 amp, 4 gauge power and ground wires, 8 guage rcas, and remote wire, a fuse holder that came with a 8 gauge amp wiring kit and a 80 watt fuse. what would you do next if you were in my situation?
He is correct, you cannot damage a sub by underpowering them, that is just a myth. You can damage them however by going more then 10% over the rated wattage. Your head unit doesn't effect your subs it only effects the speakers wired to it. Since you upgraded and you only have an 80amp fuse, you will need a bigger one. You need one that matches somwhat close to your fuses on your amp, I am running a 100amp fuse on a 750w amp and im sure your amp is much larger.
Q:I dont really know much about car electrical systems, im only 17 and im trying to learn. I only know a little about wiring (like pos and neg from physics class last year) I want to install 2 neon tubes, one underneath the driver and passenger dash. The fuse box is to the left of the passengers foot (2008 vue) I opened it up and all i see is a bunch of little plastic squares for each component (for example, power windows, On Star, radio etc) There are also 2 that say spare which i think i could hook up to, or even the power seats fuse because i dont have that so it wouldnt have anything right? What are the next steps? I dont understand where you actually hook in the wires??Thanks!!
Well, what I would do in your situation is take out a fuse that turns off with the car (ie: radio, window regulator). You can use a add-a-fuse attachment that splices into the wire to connect the positive end, or simply take the positive end (heavily stripped and primed of course), wrap it around one of the metal pieces of the fuse and shove it back in. Then simply ground it to nut or bolt nearby. You might have to repeat this on a couple of different fuses, because this probably won't fit with two wires coming out of one fuse. Then all you have to do is worry about concealing the power wire, but this will be no problem.

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