CDC17 Series AC Contactor of High Quality

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Product Description:

1.Applicable Range

CDC17 series AC contactor is designed for long-distance making and breaking in circuit, frequently starting and controlling AC motor in the power system with frequency 50Hz/60Hz, rated insulation voltage up to 690V and rated operating voltage to 380V in Category AC-3. It also can be assembled with CDR7 or other thermal relay or electrical protection apparatus, as electron magnetic starter, to protect circuit against overload or phase breaking. It can also be used in the circuit with rated operating voltage of 660V when lowering adequate current.

2.Applicable Standards

National Standard: GB14048.4
International Standard: IEC 60947-4-1

3.Normal working and installation Conditions

1. Ambient temperature: It works within-5℃~+40℃, and the average temperature no more than +35℃ in 24 hours.
2. Altitude: No more than 2000m.
3. Atmosphere: Relative humidity no more than 50% at max.40 ℃, and it may be higher at a lower temperature. The lowest average temperature no more than 25℃ in the wettest month. The maximum average relative humidity of this month doesn't exceed 90℃. The change of temperature leading to dew on the product must be considered.
4. Mounting condition: The inclined angle between the mounting surface and the vertical surface no more than +22.5°;Contactor can be installed 35mm (no more than 32A and 115A、150A) type standard guideway by screwdriver.

4.Construction Features
  1. Small volume, light weight, less power-loss, long life span and beautiful feature
    2. shell is adopted excellent fire-resisting insulated material ,which can withstand high temperature and is safe and reliable
    3. Can be assembled with various components that were designed into module to extend its functions. The auxiliary modules installed in front side are: CDF4 auxiliary contact group, CDLA2, CDLA3 air time-delay head; that in lateral side are: auxiliary contact group and mechanical interlock.
    4. Can be connected with CDR7 (95 and below) and CDRE17 (125 and below) series thermal relay into electromagnetic starter without any connect-ing wire.






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Q:Fuse keeps going out in my car?
Either you have an intermittent short to ground in the wiring or something on the circuit (motor, for example) is adding resistance and subsequently pulling excessive current because it is binding/starting to fail etc. and causing the circuit to overload and the fuse to pop. Is there anything else on the circuit that you know of? Do the power seats move smoothly and consistently on the tracks? Some cars have several motors that control the power seats so it can get complicated if one of them is the culprit. If it is not in the wiring and a component is causing it it sometimes it is easier to wait for the problematic component to take a sh*t and then just replace it. That's about the best that I can say over a computer. Good luck!
Q:99 JETTA wont start / crank, doors dont lock either?
if your car is a mk4 body style, check the drivers door to see if the red light is blinking. if it is, the factory alarm is acting up. this alarm has a starter kill built into it. you have to turn off the alarm. try the keyhole in the vw symbol on the trunk. if the light doesnt blink at all, you have a blown interior light fuse. i think its fuse number 14. fix the alarm problem, and it will take care of the no start.
Q:2000 mercedes ml320 power seats dont work?
same thing with my ml320 take the connectors apart and clean them with a little sand paper 100 grit
Q:No radio or clock in 2001 hyundai elantra?
Double check the fuses tor the dome light and cigar lighter, its easy to miss a bad fuse If you have a test light or DVOM (multi meter) use it to check both sides of the fuse for power, obviously an open in the fuse is going to cause one side of it to have power and not the other. You will need these tool to verify the fuse is getting power, check the condition of the fuse, and trace the power to the individual components on that circuit. For backyard mechanics, Harbor Freight has these tool for the $5-10 range that work great for occasional use. Good luck man! If you need any further help with open / short diagnosis just let me know.
Q:I need to find a how to basic level to rewire a sail boat it has a 4 fuse panel?
any of the books by Nigel Calder will give you the details on proper marine wiring. I suspect your boat was made in the 1970's or 80's and the wiring is not adequate for today's safety standards. The number of fuses depends on the accessories you have. And you want to be sure to fuse each major accessory e.g. bilge on one, radio on one, navigation lights on one,
Q:do i have to replace the whole part in a 1997 ford thunderbird back lights and blinkers?
If the lights aren't working, check the bulbs and the connections.
Q:1994 GMC Jimmy electrical problem?
Most common place is under the dash.
Q:I have a 2006 chevy impala in the ac fuse keep blowing what should I do?
It sounds like the ac compressor clutch is bad. How to troubleshoot: Unplug the A/C compressor clutch wire and replace fuse and turn on A/C. If it does not blow, it is not anything in the wiring to the compressor. If it blows without the compressor plugged in you are going to have to check wiring and components from the compressor back.
Q:van wont shift out of park, brake lights are off but so are 10 other electrical components?
Your brake lights not working is the reason it won't come out of park. Some of the newer vehicles have more than one fuse box. Mine has one under the back seat and one under the hood. The owners manual is the first place to start. Make sure ALL the fuses are good. You'll need a test light, check for power at your brake light switch, located on the brake pedal under the dash. Then check to see if you have power at the other end of the switch when the pedal is depressed. A lot of times, it is this switch that goes bad or just gets knocked around. If you have power on both sides of this switch, then you move on to the bitsy solenoid. I'd need more information to tell you where it is on your van, but try checking the brake light switch first. Good luck!
Q:What can you do to check a distributor and fuses in a 1993 Toyota Camry?
Best to take it to Mechanic or garage dealing with Toyotas and Japanese autombiles but we use to have a 1993 Toyota Camry LE (kept it like 12 years and had 211,000 miles when my wife and her sisters upgraded to SUVs as she now drives 2005 Toyota Highlander 6 cylinder AWD) and FYI replacing the distrbutor itself is very expensive part for just the electrical component itself plus labor and yes it does eventually go If you are planning to keep this 1993 Camry for some time in excess of 1 year, then my advice would be to pay extra for genuine Toyota distributor part rather than just OEM substitute bec I made this mistake before and the OEM part itself was $200 and died in month 13 after the parts warranty expired. I had previously replaced the distributor cap, 4 spark plugs and spark plug wires myself before with genuine Toyota parts but basically my mechanic confirmed my worse nightmare when the distributor failed again and had to be towed saying that there was no spark coming when he pulled the wire Again this can be costly repair so best to take to reputable garage as they will stand behind repairfor 90 days on labor and part 12 months. Hope the Above Info Helps!

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