• ZBW SERIES COMBINATION TRANSFORMER SUBSTATION System 1
  • ZBW SERIES COMBINATION TRANSFORMER SUBSTATION System 2
ZBW SERIES COMBINATION TRANSFORMER SUBSTATION

ZBW SERIES COMBINATION TRANSFORMER SUBSTATION

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
-

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

To meet requirement of urban network construction, ZBW series combination substation is designed by our company with its own advantage such as compact, complete unit, reliable and safe, convenient maintenance, artistic appearance and so on. It is applicable for the outdoor administration of power supply such as high building, residential area, stations and wharfs, ports, factory and park.complete unit, reliable and safe, convenient maintenance, artistic appearance and so on. It is applicable for the outdoor administration of power supply such as high building, residential area, stations and wharfs, ports, factory and park.complete unit, reliable and safe, convenient maintenance, artistic appearance and so on. It is applicable for the outdoor administration of power supply such as high building, residential area, stations and wharfs, ports, factory and park.complete unit, reliable and safe, convenient maintenance, artistic appearance and so on. It is applicable for the outdoor administration of power supply such as high building, residential area, stations and wharfs, ports, factory and park.

Type:  3 Blade Upwind

Rotor Diameter: 8.0 m

Start-up Wind Speed: 2.5 m/s (5.6 mph)

Cut-in Wind Speed:  3 m/s (6.7 mph)

Rated Wind Speed:  10m/s (22.4mph)

Rated Power: 10k Watts

Maximum Power: ~ 12k Watts

Cut-Out Wind Speed:  15m/s(33.5mph)

Timing manner: automatically adjust the windward angle

Overspeed Protection:  AutoFurl

Temperature Range:  -40 to +60 Deg. C (-40 to +140 Deg. F)

Generator: Permanent Magnet Alternator

Output Form: 240 VDC /360VDC Nominal

Work principle and features

Working principle: Wind energy is used as the motive power to provide low speed rotation of a permanent magnet generator to produce alternating current which is then converted to direct current by a controlled constant voltage rectification system, the resulting voltage being stored in a battery, or batteries. The direct current from the battery, (batteries), is then converted to alternating current by an inverter, the resulting controlled and stabilised alternating current being used to power the load, this is the general principle for battery storage type systems. Grid connect systems take the alternating current produced by the turbine directly to an inverter which controls and stabilises the alternating current and also provides numerous control elements for direct connection to the electricity grid.

Features : The products combine unique and innovative design with high reliability. The innovative design has been awarded both Invention and Practical new patents by the State Intellectual Property Department and thereby has totally independent property rights in China, resulting in the market leading position in wind to electrical energy conversion, technical design and efficiency. Key design features such as very low rotation speed result in increased efficiency in comparison to other small turbine systems.

Applications and installations

The products are used in areas that benefit from good wind regimes but have little or no electrical grid connection such as; islands, desert and low inhabitation areas, frontier defence posts, microwave and telephone communication stations, forest observation posts, oil pipeline delivery stations, highway lighting etc. Rural and urban applications include, community squares and recreational areas, parks, landscape and scenic locations, resorts, and other ecological areas, applications also include on or off grid national electrified fencing systems.The utilisation of wind energy at no on-going cost significantly reduces the environmental impact of fossil fuel usage whilst saving vital energy resources.


Q: explain
They are used to protect the circuit from overloads, this prevents fires and protects components of the circuit.
Q: Hi, I have a 1996 Cadillac Eldorado ETC with 180K miles. It has been running fine except for starting, it used to take a few cranks at times but other than that it was fine. My fuel pump seemed to have had failed and I replaced it with another but I still don't get any fuel pressure to the fuel rail. I have replaced the fuel filter, and a fuel pump relay located in the engine bay driver side fuse box. I have also installed an inline fuel pump and that get gas to the rails but it lack the high pressure required for EFI. My original fuel pump works now that I have tested it, so that was not the problem, it seems it might be an electrical issue since there seems to be no power getting to the in-tank fuel pump. My question.- Is there any other electrical components I need to look for and replace that control the power sent to the fuel pump? I cant afford to take it to any shop, or put it on a diagnostics system, I have to be able to bypass or rigg or fix myselfwhat do you think?
Put a voltmeter or test lamp between the pump power connection and ground. Switch on the ignition, and see whether the voltage is there. If not, and you reckon the fuse and relay are definitely OK, you have a problem with the power wire or connections, or the earthing of the pump. If the voltage IS there, your pump is stuck or burned out or bad earth.
Q: Hey,Ww have a DC to AC converter so we can use our laptop and charge our cells on the road. The casing fell off the converter, and my mom and sister told me that it was stuck in the front power port (or point as the manual calls it) of the van.One day I decided to go out with a pair of hemostats and try and remove the plug. Little did I know that power was still running to the power point inspite of the engine off. Once the hemostats were inserted, there was this huge ark (tons of sparks) so I made sure everything ran properly and said that I would get the part out at a later date.Today I looked and it turns out no part is stuck in that power port, but it is dead. The fuses for the front and back port are okay along with the cigar lighter.I thought I could go pick up a new port from the dealership, but my mom thinks the wiring is fried, but if the voltage got that high, wouldn't the 20 amp (max of 240V) be fried?Anyone know what could be wrong? Is it the wiring or port?Ty!
Im sure it would be the wiring or a fuse. I would check for a fuse under the dash and also there should be a main fusebox in the engine bay next to the battery. If it was the wiring then it would have shorted at the weakest place (or smallest gauge wire). When something like that happens you need to be carefull. There is no telling what kind of damage might have been done to other electrical components in the vehicle. Hopefully that was the only thing affected and you wont see any more problems come up later on. I would suggest having a diagnostic done on the electrical system just for good measure. good luck.
Q: I believe I have a blown fuse and need to change.My dome light and power lock are not working and I believe that it's a fuse. The front cig lighter was not working but change fuse and now works. I have a 2k max gle. There are 2 fuse box in the engine dept that may also need fuse according to nissan book. The fuses seem to support several electronic but only list one component so it's difficult to tell what fuse is for power locks.Thank You
look for power socket or cigar lighter in the fuse box under the cover above the hood release on the back of that cover is a list of what each fuse does. And in your owners hand book starting on secton / page 8/21 to 8/22 tell you what to look for. Page 8/21 details the under hood fuses. Mostly red 10 amp and blue 15 amp fuses power those circuits. there are three spair fuses in the box marked spair you can use one of those until you get more. More often than not it is a bad cell phone charger in the power socket
Q: I am trying to keep my battery from dying overnight since i need a new door jamb switch b/c my interior lights will not go off.
Always the negative, but make sure its free from any part of the body where you sit it. and the reason why its always the negative is because when removeing it and refitting it , it will not create a spark, like from the positive side, and can cause your battery to explode, if any battery gaz is around, most important. its a known fact that all qualified mechanics know.
Q: I have a friend with a 1993 Chevy Lumina and it will not charge the battery for some reason. He just replaced it with a new alternator and had it checked to make sure it was good at the store he bought it. When we jump it off with another vehicle it cranks fine and runs.but then when you drive down the road it will die if you step on brakes.then try to crank it.and it is deadwill not crank.like a dead battery. We had the battery all charged up as the battery is only 1 year old. Even bought a new battery. Why won't this thing charge? It there some kind of other electrical component keeping it from charging properly? What about fuses or some other regulator or realy somewhere? The engine on it by the way is a v-6 and a 3.1liter.
There is an alternator fuse in the under hood fuse box . If that is not blown check the battery wire on the back of the alt for battery voltage .
Q: hey! i have a music man 112 rd 50 and have problems to go with it, im not sure what the issue is but heres what she is doing. when i turn her on i have to turn the volume all the way up to get sound (at least 6 to 10) and then the sound is very muffled and clips in and out, it is not reaching anywhere near the volume it should, ive changed the fuse (it was not turning on at first fixed that) i have also changed the preamp tube and other tubes, they all work fine as far as ii can tell (there new they better be) any idea what may be going on??
The tip connector of the jack is commonly spring loaded - but that means the spring looses tension, it won't contact your cable properly. Replacing the jack is the very best solution, however you may be able to dig into the jack with a really small srewdriver and rebend the tip connector to make better contact.
Q: 2.8 manual trans blows ecm b fuse in the under dash fuse box. Changed relays(2), fuel pump and ecm. It might be the fuel pump primer but I don't know where it is located.When I bypass the relay the fuel pump runs but when I try to start the engine while it's bypassed the bypass wire from the positive battery post gets red hot. The engine used to start while wired in this fashion when the fuse would fail. Now the fuse fails all the time.
You have a direct short in the ECM B circuit. When you bypass the fuse you destroy the harness, fuses are to protect the harness and the components they are connected to. They protect the ECM. The B circuit usually is the power circuit for the fuel pump, through the relay. Check the harness for continuity from the relay connector to ground from the fuel pump power supply wire I think it's tan/wht. If there is you have a short and you will need to pinpoint where. but you have probably already melted the harness together. Good luck. It might have been cheaper to hire a professional mechanic shop.
Q: Hi. I recently had my 2.7L engine rebuilt on my 04 Santa Fe. I've got a problem with my radio now. Most times it wouldn't work. I checked all fuses, their good. The only way that I would get it to work is if i remove the fuse corresponding to the radio and put it back in. The radio would work as long as the car is on. If i turn the engine off, I'd have to do the same thing with the fuse to get the radio to work again. I'm guessing it's either a shortage somewhere or something's grounded. Any ideas on this problem? or where should I start looking? Thanks All.
The radio has a second fuse for memory, although it is used by other components so you would notice that worth a second look though! Check all the fuses with a lest light or a volt meter, if they're all are ok then its likely your radio, they are rather problematic
Q: Hi, I've had a lot of problems with my bike and I know I need a new one. Don't need to be told that. I own a 2005 R50x 50cc scooter. On my way home, the lights went off and the 'dash' went off including the rpm gauge. The horn, starter and full beam still work though. The fuse is fine and it isn't the battery. If anyone has a clue please let me know and the location of the components that may be affected. FYI, all the electrical bits are in the front not under the seat. Many thanks
make confident the two events are not basically coincedence. because of the fact the different adult adult males stated, with the ignition change off, there could desire to be no juice going to any of the lighting fixtures fixtures. With the change off, the only place wires would be energized is between the starter soleniod and the change. i'm doubting that's a shorted cord on the grounds that could in very almost all likelyhood blow the top-rated fuse. If the fuse did not go, you may fry the shorted cord and at perfect you have got a melted wiring harness or at worst a charred bike. i've got had shorted wires and that i'm speaking from journey on that count. If this subject happens returned, i could verify the ignition changeperchance squirt somewhat WD-40 down the keyhole.

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

Hot products


Hot Searches

Related keywords