FD3.6-2000-10 Wind Generator with Good Quality

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Product Description:


Type:  3 Blade Upwind

Rotor Diameter: 3.6m

Start-up Wind Speed:  2.5m/s (5.6 mph)

Cut-in Wind Speed:  3 m/s (6.7 mph)

Rated Wind Speed:  9m/s (20.1 mph)

Rated Power: 2000 Watts

Maximum Power: ~ 2500Watts  

Furling Wind Speed:  12 m/s (27 mph)

Overspeed Protection:  AutoFurl

Output Form:120 VDC/240VDC Nominal

2.Work principle and features

Working principle:

Wind energy is used as the motive power to provide low speed rotation of a permanent magnet generator to produce alternating current which is then converted to direct current by a controlled constant voltage rectification system, the resulting voltage being stored in a battery, or batteries. The direct current from the battery, (batteries), is then converted to alternating current by an inverter, the resulting controlled and stabilised alternating current being used to power the load, this is the general principle for battery storage type systems.



Features :


Reliable passive self furling

Autobrake slows down the blades spin when the batteries are charged

Marine quality powder coated aluminium body, water tight housing

Iron Boron Neodymium magnet alternator.

Reliability: The design of the body efficiently flows excess heat into the wind reducing operating temperature

Two years warranty; operational life expected to be in excess of 15 years.


The products combine unique and innovative design with high reliability. The innovative design has been awarded both Invention and Practical new patents by the State Intellectual Property Department and thereby has totally independent property rights in China

3.Applications and installations

The products are used in areas that benefit from good wind regimes but have little or no electrical grid connection such as; islands, desert and low inhabitation areas, frontier defence posts, microwave and telephone communication stations, forest observation posts, oil pipeline delivery stations, highway lighting etc. Rural and urban applications include, community squares and recreational areas, parks,



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You should never up size your wire downstream of where your main panel is, which is what I am guessing that you want do. Let's say you are trying to feed a piece of equipment that requires 60A protection but you plan on feeding it with an existing, smaller wire that is not rated for that amount of current (say a #8 or #10 gauge wire) then you are asking for trouble in the long run. Having too much current running in that existing wire will eventually cause heating problems on that wire. This WILL eventually break down the existing insulation on the wire and cause a fire. Also, if the existing wire is fed from a circuit breaker or fuse that is rated less than 60A (for example a 30A breaker) then you will always trip the circuit at the panel if your new piece of equipment draws above 30A which makes your 60A fuse useless and superfluous. Please be safeuse #6 on both sides of your fuse and make sure that your circuit breaker or fuse at the panel from where you are getting your juice is also rated for 60A or above. Hope this helps!
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there should be a diagram in the owners manual that will show you which fuse to pull. Another thing is that there are usually two fuse boxes on vehicles, one either the passenger or driver door side of the dash, and one underneath the hood. the interior fuse box usually is for the interior components. I hope this helps and if not you can go to Auto Zone and let them know you need to know and they will help you out.
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EMF (pretty much the same as electrostatic potential or voltage) is measured in units of energy per charge such as joules per coulombs (volts). Resistance is measured in ohms Appropriately enough, it's inverse, conductance, is measured in mhos. Because it's simply the inverse of resistance, conductance never really gets used. You just say 1/R instead. The function of a fuse is to burn out when current spikes so that more valuable components DON'T burn out or the circuits in the wall of your house don't catch fire or something very bad. It's rare to see fuses in a house now because circuit breakers do the same job and don't have to be replaced after tripping.
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you should be able to run anything that does not exceed the amperage rating of the fuse for the power point this is usually about 10-15 amps, depending on the vehicle and what other components this fuse controls. If we consider that wattsvoltage x current that means that you should be fine with anything that is rated at under 120-180 watts or a combination of things (using a splitter) totaling less than that. Find the fuse that controls your power power point, and look at its amperage rating. I would assume that this fuse also controls other components as well (dome lights, etc.). Multiply its amperage by twleve and that is the MAXIMUM number of watts that can be used on that circuit. Since this represents the maximum number of amps possible on the circuit (and probably would result in a blown fuse) dont pick an appliance that matches the wattage number you calculate or you will overload the circuit and blow a fuse. Other than that you can use just about anything that meets these requirements.

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