Q:a. pinocytosisb. exocytosisc. phagocytosisd. receptor-mediated endocytosis

Exocytosis is the durable process by which a cell directs the contents of secretory vesicles out of the cell membrane. These membrane-bound vesicles contain soluble proteins to be secreted to the extracellular environment, as well as membrane proteins and lipids that are sent to become components of the cell membrane.

Q:i plugged my m-box to my mixer heard a pop and no more subwoofer lol. im trying to figured out what got burst ? fuse? somebody help please

Disconnect the sub from its power source. If there is a way to open it and check for fuses or other protective parts inside, try that. If you can't figure out how to open it or there are no fuses or reset buttons, take it to a repair shop. In the future, connect or disconnect audio cables only when all components are off.

Q:How to turn the idle down?

Spark, gasoline, compression. verify for spark with an previous spark plug inserted into between the plug wires and the metallic area of the plug touching a metallic floor on the engine, see in case you may discover a spark while the engine is cranked. verify for gasoline, in case you haven't any longer have been given a gauge you may depress the schrader valve on the gasoline rail, it in lots of circumstances has a plastic cap over it and it feels like the valve stem on a tire. be careful as gasoline will spray out at 40PSI so conceal it with a rag. to ascertain for compression without a compression guage, crank the engine over it would sound even, as each and each cylinder comes up on its compression stroke the starter will decelerate somewhat. If a variety of of cylinders have low compression the sound would be choppy. If not one of the cylinders have compression, the sound would be secure without pulses. the eu is remarkable. once you turn the main to on does the verify engine mild come on? if no longer then the workstation won't be getting ability. different issues to ascertain are cam or crank sensors those administration ignition and injector timing.

Q:I got infinity kappa 6.5 Components and infinity 6x9 kappa both are 2 ohm speakers, dual 7 inch touch screen tv radio has a 15 amp fuse, mtx jack hammer 4 channel amp which is rated at 400 watts rms x 4 @ 2 ohms birth sheet states 480 rms @ 2 ohms x 4, 800 max birth sheet states 895 max @ 2 ohms x 4 and has 2 35 amp fuse, and rockford fosgate tweeters ran of the radio 22 rms. just bought a die hard platinum battery and upgraded my ground and power cables under the hood with 4 awg cable. two 4 awg cables to the alternator and 2 to the ground and engine block one to the fuse box all 4 awg. my lights dim as the bass hits in idle should i get a capacitor or high output alternator?????????

Get an alternator b/c your battery is being drained faster than it should. If u can upgrade to 140-160 amps that should do it. A small cap just to the bass amps might be a benefit as well.

Q:I know you can clean a car engine by hosing it down, but I've heard you can't drive your car for a while after? Maybe because if the water evaporates too fast it will cause complications? I don't know. Also, if you can hose the engine down, what parts of the engine must stay dry. I know the intake has to, and the battery.

oven purifier will east up the coating of the wires. thats effective stuff, itll decrease via to oil on the wires and shop going! your engine became no longer made to shield concentrated corrosion like that. next time basically purchase the gunk engine purifier its like 4 dollars for quite an excellent can of the stuff!

Q:I have built a custom car and want to reuse the original fuse box under the dash. All I am running that require power is all my exterior lights, gauge lights, dome light, power windows, ignition switch, push start button, alternator, and distributor. I want my lights to have constant power to a switch just like factory but i want everything else to get power once the ignition is turned on, once again like a factory car. Any help is appreciated.

it fairly is a risk that some thing is incorrect with the the remainder of the wiring on your place. although, the electrician became not required to do something approximately any of your wiring aside from the couple of ft going into the breaker field if that cord regarded ok then he does not have any reason to alter it. truthfully rewiring the whole abode could fee way greater beneficial than $one thousand or $1200, an entire rewire ought to fee 5 or ten circumstances that lots. So the fee distinction probably has greater to do with him not having coverage, not having a employer truck to maintain, and/or only being greater desperate for some earnings. i could fee $600-800 for a job like that reckoning on what proportion circuits have been in contact and how lots difficulty it became going to be to instruct the potential off and reconnect it. once you're worried that rewiring does might desire to be achieved, take a glance on the insulation of the present wires and notice if curiously broken, or the right age to be brittle. If not, there is not any reason to think of it fairly is failing

Q:Help me please. My son installed a battery into his 99 ford escort. However he attached neg to pos and pos to neg. Can this fry out the alternator. Or could it simply be something electrical. There was a wire left off, going to somewhere. And a black wire coming from the internal fuse box.

Every vehicle has a main fuse, or fusible link to avoid damage to electrical components. Check EVERY fuse under the hood, and inside the vehicle. Chances are the Main fuse (usually 80-120 AMP) is blown, and possibly a couple others here and there. If the vehicle has fusible links (a loop, or section of wire specifically made to burn away), then replace them with new ones. I don't know where the other wires are you are referring tobut if you don't know where they go, hit a junkyard, and use the same type of vehicle as a reference.

Q:I have a problem. I have an outlet that has a computer with a 500w psu, stereo, printer, two monitors, and a external hdd. The problem is that the outlet fuse keeps blowing and I cant figure out why. Im pretty sure im not exceeding the maximum power usage and I have already replaced the outlet. Im worried that one of my components may be shorting and leaking current but I dont know how to check. I do know however that it has nothing to do with the electrical infrastructure of my house because my father is using the exact same outlet now for his computer and hes not experieced the outlet blow yet.How can i find out which component is cause the problem?

Each component that you plug into the outlet should have an ID plate stating the watts (power) or the VA (volt-amps) [same thing]. The total should not exceed 1500 Watts. I would guess that the outlet (receptacle) is a standard two slot outlet (handles two plugs only). If it has the 2 straight flat blade (vertical) one shorter than the other, it is rated for 1500 watts (15amps of current). If both of these flat blade slots have a horizontal slot (notch) in the middle of each blade, it is for 2000 watts or 20 Amps of currant. It sounds like you are using a power strip of some sort (most are switched with a red pilot light and maybe even a 15 amp breaker as protection). Of course the wiring to that outlet should be 12/2 AWG wire and the fuse or breaker should be 20 Amps. Again the maximum load should be no more than 2000 watts total. (About the same as a space heater). If you total up the ID plates of each electrical appliance you have connected you will find that over a long period of time if you are running pretty close to that limit and the fuse or breaker gets tired. Heat is the culprit. You total up the watts of the hdd, two monitors and maybe the stereo (PA). I don't think your printer or external hard drive draw that much. Also you should have room around your equipment for ventilation. Good Luck - I hope this helps.

Q:Does anyone have a picture layout of the fuse box on a beretta z26 and which components they power. I got the repair manual and it doesn't have it in there. The fuse box cover is gone so its not there. I look on the internet and still find nothing about what fuses go to what components. I believe a have a short in something that is causing charging problems. But i can not find any where the fuse layout or diagram for this f****** car anywhere! I had a problem with this a few months ago and tested the alternator and it's good. It was a fuse problem then. This time ive tested the alternator by the manual instructions and it tested good. Everything points to a short somewhere. But still no charging and no clue what to try next.

Go to a wrecking yard and get a fuse box cover. You can also test your system yourself for a short or parasitic draw. First, shut off all the car's lights and accessories then close all the doors. With the battery in the car, first remove the negative battery terminal. Now, using a multimeter set to the DC volts scale put one probe on the negative terminal of the battery and the other probe to ground. Read the meter. If you read more than about a quarter of a volt, you have a draw somewhere. Troubleshoot the draw by having someone remove fuses one at a time until you see the meter voltage drop. When you see the voltage drop, you’ve found the circuit in which you have a power drain. Thoroughly examine that circuit, area by area, until you locate the reason for the voltage drop. Isolate and repair the problem. If this doesn't fix the problem, take extra care for a few days and see that all the lights are off before you walk away from the car for the evening. It could be something so simple as a door that hasn't closed fully, causing an interior light to remain on overnight or maybe a bad switch on an under hood or trunk light. Any of those are more than enough to do the job. I've done it myself, more than once. Usually, a full battery charge will take care of it. Even a jump start and running the car for an hour or so should build your battery up enough to get you going again as long as your alternator is doing its job.

Q:I have an old 1998 dodge stratus and it keeps blowing the ignition fuel starter fuse(20A). I replace it 4 times and they failed. Can someone tell me what's going on and I can get over this?

The ignition fuel and starter are all on the same circuit?? Seems odd, but possible I guess. Your going to have to get an amperage draw test done on the individual components of the system and see which one is drawing enough amps to melt the fuse. Could be the components, the wiring (not likely) or the control module (rare). Also could be a short to ground or short to power. Sounds confusing but I bet it's faulty internal starter windings causing the problem. Have the starter removed and professionally tested by a reputable auto electric shop not a parts guy that thinks he's a mechanic. Also if it's a manual transmission car try parking it on hills and roll starting it to verify the problem if this is possible.