DZ47LE Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: -

Supply Capability:: -

Inquire Now

Add to My Favorites

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

You Might Also Like

Mount Panel Fuse Holder 5x20

Electro Ceramics Made of Steatite

Ceramic Bobbin Heater with Coil

RS0 Series powder-filled fast acting fuse

CDB5 Series Modular Lsolating Switch

TBBX serial LV reactive in-place compensation device

D(S)JW-WB series Micro Computer Contactless Compensation Voltage Stabilizer

FD3.0-1000-10 Wind generator

Product Features:

DZ47LE earth leakage circuit breaker is used for the protection against electrical leakage in the circuit of 50Hz or 60Hz, rated voltage single-phase 240V, 3-phase 415V, rated current up to 60A When somebody gets an electirc shock or the residual current of the circuit exceeds the fixe value, the ELCB can cut off the power within the time of 0.1s automatically protecting the personal safety and preventing the equipment from the fault resulted from the residual current.
With this function, the ELCB can protect the circuit against overload and short circuit or can be used for the unfrequent switchover of the circuit under normal conditions. It conforms to IEC61009 standard.

Q: Hey all, I just bought a 1981 Subaru GL on Saturday--my first car, yay!Anyways the guy I bought it from said that the headlight fuse ocasionally blows out. Yep, its done it twice since I've had it.The first time I was driving and charging my phone in the cigarette lighter (maybe it can't handle everything at once?). Second time was two hours ago I went to start the car and the lights wouldn't come on.What's the underlying issue here? Fuses are cheap and easy to find but id rather fix it for good than having to buy a new set of fuses every couple if weeks.: Check your wiring harness. It can be shorting out if there is contact between two bare wires (rat damage) or a wire that is not grounded properly. Make sure nothing is stripped or bare, you should never be able to see through the plastic on wires. Make sure your battery is not corroded and grounded properly. Test light your harness to make sure the hots are hot and the nots are not. There is a lot of stuff on forums for wiring diagrams and such to make sure that no one pieced it together wrong or cut/spliced into something they shouldn't have. If your Lights are spliced with a higher voltage component the wires will get hotter than they were designed for and that will cause a fuse to burn out. Hope that helps. Follow the wires from the back of your headlight all the way to the firewall and make sure connection to battery is still good (will will likely have to pry apart that black slinky looking wire cover to make sure it's all good under the hood). Make sure to check for signs of pests!

Q: I bought a pair of dm220 bowers and Wilkins speakers from this man on kijiji. I've had them for about 3 months now and I would say it's the best purchase I've ever made in audio gear. So I had a party at my house a few weeks ago, and I got a little careless, I raised the volume high enough I had blown the fuse of each speaker. Upon replacing them, the right speaker did not work right away.I get the right speaker to work temperaly by slightly tilting it and letting fall back to the floor. (it's a tall speaker) That bang seems to knock something inside, I hear a spark noise from the speaker, and it works perfectly, but not for ever. I have to do this every few days to keep it going.Last night, that wouldn't fix it. So i decided to turn the volume pretty loud, hear that spark noise, and it started working! Even after reducing the volume. I see this is a specific problem, but I would very much appreciate some advice on a proper fix for this speaker.: That fuse blew to protect your amplifier. Normally it will blow when the speaker circuit opens and that is what I would be troubleshooting if I was working the problem. In my opinion you have an intermittently loose connection; probably either where the wire enters the speaker enclosure or inside the enclosure. It's a remote possibility that the speaker wire is damaged but that is very remote. A thorough inspection of the speaker wire, from the point where it begins to move when you bump the speaker right up to the enclosure. If that exposes nothing the problem is in the enclosure itself. High quality enclosures are a specific size, and ported with carefully designed holes. Most of the time the only way to access the guts is to remove the speaker itself. Do so carefully and inspect every connection. Pay special attention to any small/fine wire connections especially the ones to the voice coil and cone. Now here's the secret, if you don't understand exactly what I am saying in the above you probably aren't qualified to open the cabinet and you would be well served to seek out someone who is. It isn't difficult to damage things in a speaker housing, frequently without even knowing that you did cause more trouble. Good Luck GIMP EDIT: Have you swapped the channels, i.e. run the left speaker off the right channel and vice verse?? Anytime you have something broke and an identical something working that working unit will become your best friend. Keep talking to me, I'll keep listening and adding EDITs. Cheers

Q: I asked how to fix it, but was just told the same thing everyone else said, go to a mechanic and let them do it. I would like everyone to know write now that is my car, and I intend on learning everything I can about it, secondly I'm broke, and thirdly, i am a very poor grammarist.lol but seriously I would really like to know what this is.: they are a section of thinner wire(usually encased in a glass or plastic case) that fails to protect the whole circuit or component when the temperature, voltage or current drawn rises too high, hence the name thermal. fixing it is easier said than done. do you know where it is? do you know how to safely remove and replace it? can it be removed/replaced? best bet is to get (buy, beg/borrow/ steal) the service manual for your car and read that first. if you get one, it becomes a handy resource for when you need to know stuff about the car. these manuals are made either b the manufacturers or other people who atually pull a car apart and put it back together, noting instructions and taking photos, so they are relatively easy to follow.

Q: i understand you need the battery to get a car started and the spark plugs, but what else is used in a car to get it to start? i ask cause when i try to turn it on sometimes it wont start right away, the battery is fine my sparks are good, but the car still has a hard time starting up.: Well three main things that make a motor run are fuel,air and spark. most cars since the eighties are computer controlled by many sensors constantly sending information to the computer telling it what to do by measuring fuel/air mixture,temp,etc and if a sensor is going bad a check engine light normally comes on. you have to have a diagnostic computer plugged into a terminal inside under your dash to read codes the bad sensor placed to troubleshoot the problem. now if no light has come on then it could just be a number of things to do with a tune-up,such as air filter,spark plugs and wires to them or fuel filter.and that's all i know to tell u

Q: I put new fans cooling and ac,, new fan relay. And new tempeture sensor and don't work my ac fan and cooling fan . I check the all fuses are in good condition .,only I have to change the auxiliary switch to see if that is the problem.,: I can't imagine why anyone would replace all these components that are easily tested with a simple test light? For example, you can't be sure of fuses by looking at them. You have to use a test light. You need to start at one end of the flow and work to the other. Might be easiest to start at the radiator temp sensor. If you shunt that, the relay should kick the fan on. If not, then check power to the relay at the relay. And don't forget grounds. For example, power to the fan is not enough. It also much have a good ground connection wire. You can get a test light at a place like Harbor Freight for $1.

Q: I have a 14ft V-bottom Lund fishing boat. Use it for fishing and whatnot. It is a pretty basic boat, no previous wiring. Here is the setup I am thinking of doing.Batteries will be up front under one of my seats. I am going to parallel two 12Vs together, and then run 4 awg wire to the back of the boat. The positive side will have a 20amp fuse. I am going to run these into two ground bars, one for the positive side and one for the negative side. All my components i wanna run will then hook up to these ground bars as well. I have a trolling motor, navigation lights, and going to put a CD player in it as well. And maybe a cigarette lighter. Do i need to be worried about anything or will this work fine? Should have more fuses or run a fuse panel instead of the ground bars? Any help would be great. The wiring is expensive, and i dont want to ruin it somehow. Thanks.: Ground bar is good for secondary circuits. Run a fuse block so each circuit is protected. If you have a good charging system you have no problems.

Q: I am trying to install a additional parts to my car. when i remove the bare PCB with lcd from the head unit. i accidentally grounded the circuit board to the Metal plate, it create a little spark. now the LCD doesn't work. my question are1. is the circuit board fried?2. could it be just a blown fuse?3. after ground the board, could it be just burn resistor?: It is most likely one of the components on the circuit board. Most of these components are 5 or 12 volt parts and easily damaged. Check for a blown fuse but you will probably need the circuit board diagnosed and repaired. ps I am an electrical engineer with over 30 years experience in damaging circuit boards.

Q: could it be something other than the whole component.A friend of mine who is an auto detailer thought it could be a loose wire or fuse or something.Please let me know. It will save me $ 80 more or less: Probably not the fuse (or none of the brake lights would work). Could be a loose wire, a bad bulb, or a bad ground.

Q: Helo i have a 1992 ford escort and recently got a new battery because my car wasnt starting up.I had the alternator tested after i had it jumped and the alt tested fine. But when i got my new battery i parked my car for a few days later got in and it didn't turn on. wen i tied to turn it on the bell for the open door caution rang and i felt the click on my ignition switch but no reving.what could be is it a fuse?If so can it be possible to jump a car wit a bad switch?: I would say ether the starter or the ignition coil, or maybe it could be ur battery again. It could have gotten drained or bought a bad battery. Have you tried jumping it with the new battery?

Q: checked all wires under hood and car, couldn't find any shorts. car will start and run but after awhile it will shut off or when it's put into gear.: if it shuts off when you put it in gear you need to check the mounts real good in it,it may have a broken engine mount,and that may be allowing it to break ground ,this will cause it to stall out,and blow a fuse,because when you loose the ground wire,you loose power to some of the inside components,such as the computer,and this will make them blow fuses sometimes,its worth a try,good luck with it.

Send your message to us

*Email

*TEL

*Quantity

*Unit