D(S)JW-WB series Micro Computer Contactless Compensation Voltage Stabilizer

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Principle & Characteristics

DJW-WB、SJW-WB series single、three phase micro-computer contactless compensation voltage stabilizer adopted monolithic processor to control the thysistor to compensate the voltage and reach the goal of voltage regulating, it has the advantage of high efficiency、energy saving、the three phase balanced automatically and so on.

Scope of Application

It is suitable in these places that need regulated power supply as communication、medical treatment、textile、broadcasting、TV、precision instrument、various elevator system and so on. It is particularly suitable in these unattended machine rooms in communication field.

Main Advantage

It has auto protection or alarm function to over(under) voltage、phase-open、fault phase sequence and so on; No phase shift, no additional waveform distortion, no waveform aberration;Available for any load; no mechanical fault or carbon brush friction loss, with intelligent interface,and can remote monitored and controlled.

Main Technical Parameter

Size & Weight(For reference only)

Q: Any help greatly appreciated. So I drive a 2005 Chrysler 300. 3.5l v6. I have strange headlight and tail light issues. Mind you there are what I believe aftermarket LED halo style headlights in the front. Tail lights are from 300c hemiFirst of all my #8 fuse [15 amp] is repeatedly blowing for no appearant reason. A Working fuse gives me the fancy blue halos, orange lamps, 3 small LED's and my normal beams. As well as proper running tail lights for the back and a responsive light switch to turn them off and on. . When the fuse blows I'm left with no lights other than my normal beams up front. No tail lights. Yet when the fuse IS blown I press the break and all my tail lights come on [all reds, and yellow blinker lights both constant. Yellow lights don't blink] and a glitchy light switch. NOW aside from all of that. My bottom left fog light does not work. The bulb looks un damaged. Any help greatly appreciated: The fuse protects an individual circuit. The lights which work when the fuse is blown is on another fuse circuit. They could not work if they were on the same circuit as the #8 fuse. It sounds like you may have too many lights on the #8 circuit. If the lighting load is greater than 15 amps it will blow the fuse when you turn on enough lights to exceed the 15 amps. Disconnect a few of the lights to bring the load below the 15 amp limit, and see if it resolves the fuse problem. You could increase the fuse size to 20 amps, but this is not usually advisable as the fuse is sized to protect the circuit components. If its not a result of having too much lighting on the circuit, then I would look for a bare wire which may be contacting the car chassis. The battery is grounded to the car frame, so any power source which touches the chassis will result in a dead ground, which will cause the fuse to blow. I would suggest getting a multimeter to check to see if you are getting power to the left fog light. If you are getting power, then the problem is with the bulb or light fixture. If you are not getting power, then I'd look for a blown fuse or faulty switch.

Q: a power surge caused my ups to malfunction, i opened it up and realised a flat like sea blue component/part (i guess it is a capacitor) with no. GNR 20D5GIK blown, I removed the component and powerd the ups and noticed it was working, i would like to know 1. what is the name of that component2. what is its function on the board3. would its absence cause anythingthank you: MASS PRODUCTION through mechanization of the assembly line. Henry Ford produced over 15 million Model Ts from 1908 to 1927. This was the first time in the history of the world that a complex product had been produced in such great numbers in such a short period. This would not have been possible without the assembly line, which Ford did NOT invent (Ransom Olds invented it). Henry Ford perfected it, though. In 1913, he implemented the MOVING assembly line and continued to optimize and mechanize it through the years.

Q: I remove the negative battery wire, put my multimeter inline with the battery and said wire, and place it on DCV 20 and see if there is a draw with all the lights and components turned off. Then start removing fuses until the draw drops?Additional Details98 ford mustang v6 3.8L manual trans: I would use the meter in current mode, not voltage. Look for the DCA range. You might have to switch the positive lead to another port for testing current depending on the range. Like you said, hook the meter up in series with a battery terminal and start pulling fuses until the current draw suddenly drops. Then you know which circuit to investigate.

Q: I have a 1996 Toyota Camry LE 4 cylinder, just yesterday for some reason the clock and the radio both wont' turn on anymore. The battery is working fine, I can turn on the car, turn on the light and all other stuff, just those two components (and the cigarette lighter adapter) that stopped turning on. Can anyone think of any reason why it's doing that? Is it the fuse that might be burned out? Thanks: Check your accessory fuse(s).

Q: Blown Kenwood KDC-P5028 CD Reciever?I have a Kenwood KDC-MP5028 CD player. I was installing the system and everything was going fine. The wiring harness has the yellow cable missing which I think the the 12v. I attatched a wire and hooked it all up and everything was working fine. When I pushed the unit into the dash the wire cameout and it touched the black ground wire. I heard a pop and noticed that the unit was smoking a little bit. Now my unit will not power back on. The fuse is still good so thats not the problem. The radio fuse is also intact. Does anyone know what the problem is? Is there an internal fuse I dont know about? Your help wil be much appreciated. Im also trying to avoid taking it to a repair shop because I know they are going to charge me an arm and a leg. Thanks, Johnnie: rutrn to where you bought it tell them its defective

Q: I have a pontiac Grand Prix GTP, its 2000 the under hood is clean but not clean enouch, Should i just go to a car wash and use pressure water on the engine components? how does one clean these wiers and stuff the dust seems to be every where, are there any pros who do it for you? is yes how much taht cost?Pls helpThank you: Do the pressure wash. I'd leave the car running, there is no distributer so the chances of killing the car from the water and soap is zero.

Q: I washed it the other day and now the headlights dont work, the fuse is fine and the wires seem to be ok from what i have seen. Could it be the switch or is it less complicated than that?: spray some 10w 40 in to the switch. are you sure the fuse is good? did you test it with a meter?replace it anyway. is evrthing working except lites? go to your manul and trace the circut. there cai'nt be much wrong with it.If your gonna ride the beast who EATS hondas better learn how it works

Q: Any schematics would be very helpful, or an exact fuse location. I know it should be in the panel, but I do not have an owners manual. No power is getting to the fuel pump, but is getting to the sending unit. Thanks fo your help.: It is in the fuse box by the drivers left foot. you have to pull the fuse panel off and then the panel that it attaches to. In my car it was the black relay in the front of the fuse box. It isn't marked on the inside of the fuse panel.

Q: I tried to add a new radio to it. The wires touched each other, a spark. I tried to fix the fuses. I take one out while the car is on. And I try to start the car without the fuse. I did replace the fuse. The Turn signals still dont work, and neither does the dashboard light up. Why is that?: Most likely, you still need to replace the rear lights fuse. Most domestic and imports were built to show no light on the dash board in order to indicate that rear lights are not on working order. For the signal light, you must replace the dimmer. The dimmer is a cylinder shaped component (about 1.5 inches diameter) typically located on the same fuse block. Just pull it out and replace it with a new one. Good luck!

Q: I have already checked the fuse and it is fine. If I bought some freon would that maybe get my air back on? If not, any ideas on what else could be be the problem?: I would start with electrical components, beginning with fuses and relays (remove and inspect). I would then look at the low pressure switch tied into the A/C line (jump terminals in cable harness plug while A/C is on to see if compressor kicks in). If you know lots of refrigerant is present and jumping that plug makes the compressor turn, get a new switch. If the coolant has leaked out, don't let the compressor run on empty for more than a few seconds. If the compressor never comes on after all this, try jumping 12V to it directly to see it a bad clutch coil (still won't come on) or bad wiring or control circuit. The next step is to pull a hard vacuum on the system: -29.5 Hg is what you want, and see if the vacuum is stable with the pump off and valve shut. If the vacuum leaks out find out why and get it fixed before buying R134a. If you think it might be a very slow leak you could now take a gamble and get it charged and add leak dye. This can tell you how slow the leak is and where, in the meantime you might have some A/C for a little while. EDIT: The blower motor in the dash might just be broken, which isn't affected by the level of freon in the sealed system. Have this blower problem resolved before digging into the A/C system itself, because it might be just fine.

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