FD 2.7-500-10 Wind Generator with High Quality

FD 2.7-500-10 Wind Generator with High Quality

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1. Product Description:

The products are used in areas that benefit from good wind regimes but have little or no electrical grid connection such as; islands, desert and low inhabitation areas, frontier defense posts, microwave and telephone communication stations, forest observation posts, oil pipeline delivery stations, highway lighting etc. Rural and urban applications include, community squares and recreational areas, parks, landscape and scenic locations, resorts, and other ecological areas, applications also include on or off grid national electrified fencing systems. The utilization of wind energy at no on-going cost significantly reduces the environmental impact of fossil fuel usage whilst saving vital energy resources.

2. Product Characteristic:

The products combine unique and innovative design with high reliability. The innovative design has been awarded both Invention and Practical new patents by the State Intellectual Property Department and thereby has totally independent property rights in China, resulting in the market leading position in wind to electrical energy conversion, technical design and efficiency. Key design features such as very low rotation speed result in increased efficiency in comparison to other small turbine systems.

3.Specification：

Type: 3 Blade Upwind

Rotor Diameter: 2.7 m

Start-up Wind Speed: 2.5 m/s (5.6mph)

Cut-in Wind Speed: 3 m/s (6.7 mph)

Rated Wind Speed: 8 m/s (17.9 mph)

Rated Power: 500 Watts

Maximum Power: ~ 700Watts

Furling Wind Speed: 13 m/s (27 mph)

Overspeed Protection: Auto Furl

Temperature Range: -40 to +60 Deg. C (-40 to +140 Deg. F)

Generator: Permanent Magnet Alternator

Output Form: 36 VDC/24VDC Nominal

4. Reference Picture:

FD2.7-500-10Wind generator

Q:I have a 24vac about 5 amp transformer that will have leads coming out of it for testing electric circuits. I need to know if there is a component to help me out. If the leads were to touch together it would short out frying my transformer. I need a device that will upon the leads touching will not allow the current to back into the transformer causing a short. I know a fuse accomplishes this but I don't want to keep buying/replacing fuses since they will touch a lot! I'm going to use a resettable circuit breaker for know till I see if there is a better alternative. Thanks!: You want an incandescent light bulb. Two 12V 60W car headlamps in series will do. If there is a short as such on the leads, the lamps will take the current and convert it to light and heat. The light bulbs will seem like a short circuit or low vaue resistor to low current loads. I have made myself such an arrangement to test 120V devices for dead shorts, which is a dual receptacle box, with the receptacles in series. I plug the device under test in one receptacle, a dual socket lamp in the other, fitted with a 60W and 40W incandescent bulb. I can select 40, 60, or 100W series load with that.

Q:I have a Kenmore 110.64672400 and my husband thought it would be easy to disconnect the buzzer. He cut the two wires to the buzzer and started the dryer. It ran - until it started tried to buzz - then it died.What did we fry? What do we now need to replace?Please help.: go okorder

Q:If I drive my car at like 8pm my battery will be fine the next day. But if I don't drive after I get off work at 4 then the next day it won't start.I will have some power like the light under the hood. It always starts when I jump it.I had my alternator tested and it's fine. The same goes for my battery.Any ideas?: You have a short in the electrical system that's draining the power over time, if your batt and alt are both good.

Q:I have an ICS M4A1 (Carbine: ICS-41 Retractable). Every time I put a 30 amp flat blade fuse in, once I connect the battery the fuse immediately blows. I think there might be a shortage in the wiring somewhere. Does anyone have a quick fix for me? Thank you SO much.: Yes, a blown fuse is always caused by a short (uhnot shortage, but short;-) A quick fix is to throw it away and get a new one, another is take it in to a repair shop, but there is no inexpensive 'quick fix' for a short, usually ever in anything. Electrical shorts or short circuits occur because there is a very low or no resistance connection between the terminals of the power source, i.e. the battery, adapter terminals, wires from the wall. This can be caused by: Two uninsulated conductors touching. A burned out component that failed by shorting. Foreign object that is conductive (pin, paperclip, bread sack tie, screw, etc.) contacting two conductors. Solder bridge on a PC (Printed Circuit) board. Internal short in a multi-cell battery or battery pack. Exposure of a PC board to non-distilled water or other liquids, even after the board is dried. Wire with metal terminal end coming loose and touching another wire or a PC board trace. And I'm sure that I've not listed all the potential causes for a short. (Oh, yeah, forgot PBJ(peanut butter jelly sandwich) in a VCR. Sorry, but there isn't a quick fix. Using a larger fuse may be tempting, but it would only worsen the problem should it NOT blow. Fuses blow to protect the equipment they are used in from permanent damage from shorts. Fuses that DON'T blow DONT protect equipment from shorts. They can, in some cases, do a great job of starting a camp fire;-) Best advice, take it to a repair shop and get it fixed.

Q:1991 Honda Civic Si Hatchback. The fuse is hot with car off. It gets an immediate ground short when I turn it on. Wiring schematic says this wire goes directly to ECU. So if it were shorted against body somewhere, it would blow fuse key on of off.Tomorrow I will trace wire directly to ECU and clip it off. If it is ungrounded until I turn on key and then goes to ground when I turn on key, is that sufficient proof that my ECU has an internal short and is junk to be replaced.I hate replacing parts then finding that was not the problem.: Be careful bec some schematic pgs will only indicate a splice number and not show you that the wire you're trying to trace splices into other wires feeding other devices etc and any other device connected to that same feed either before or after the ECM could cause the fuse to blow.A real good way to usually that either too much load is on a fuse or it is the wrong amp fuse or there is a short is when the fuse blows black.From what you're saying I'am gathering that in fact the fuses are blowing black.Remember that a relay that is over loading or shorting out internally would also cause the fuse that feeds it to blow. Like in any circuit if a certain pin of a module is a input or output voltage the internal circuit would read a certain resistance if you used a ohms meter to the pin and ground and if you got a ohms meter reading that showed a fully closed circuit this would suggest that the ECM has a fault in that circuit.Tests like these are hard to perform bec you have to have the factory specs on such circuits and most don't offer such info in most manuals. Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way trace any wires going to any related relays and going to the ECM bec on an old vehicle like that the wire might be cracked/dry and have bare spots or melted spots especially the harness runs close to any hot spots like the engine etc.Remember that even the voltage regulator can be shorting out. Note if I was trouble shooting that problem I'd use a reset the same amperage as the original factory fuse and I'd use alligator clips/ mini jumper cables to temporary attache the reset to the fuse socket, plus you might use a male plug in flat connector so it can fit into the fuse socket connectors, plus you could solder the wires with the connectors to the reset.Try moving/slightly tugging lightly the different harness's one by one and then then try starting it, if the rest goes it will rest once it cools down a bit.

Q:Hi, I've had a lot of problems with my bike and I know I need a new one. Don't need to be told that. I own a 2005 R50x 50cc scooter. On my way home, the lights went off and the 'dash' went off including the rpm gauge. The horn, starter and full beam still work though. The fuse is fine and it isn't the battery. If anyone has a clue please let me know and the location of the components that may be affected. FYI, all the electrical bits are in the front not under the seat. Many thanks: make confident the two events are not basically coincedence. because of the fact the different adult adult males stated, with the ignition change off, there could desire to be no juice going to any of the lighting fixtures fixtures. With the change off, the only place wires would be energized is between the starter soleniod and the change. i'm doubting that's a shorted cord on the grounds that could in very almost all likelyhood blow the top-rated fuse. If the fuse did not go, you may fry the shorted cord and at perfect you have got a melted wiring harness or at worst a charred bike. i've got had shorted wires and that i'm speaking from journey on that count. If this subject happens returned, i could verify the ignition changeperchance squirt somewhat WD-40 down the keyhole.

Q:1993 Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon: Did you check the fuse in the back of it? and have you checked all the good connections? Sometimes components just die especially cheap ones.

Q:I have a toyota corolla 2000. Fuse of my car blown up immediately within five minutes after replacing it with a new one. The fuse is of 15 ampere and its related to EFI or F-HTR. Please help me to troubleshoot the problem to the component level.Thanks,: Yes upon looking at the wiring diagram this circuit feeds a lot of things some of these are: the PCM (powertrain control module), MAF (mass airflow sensor), fuel pump, O2 (oxygen sensors), and a couple of the EVAP control solenoids! To take the PCM out of the equation locate the EFI main relay and remove it from the relay box and then try the fuse again, with the relay removed and the fuse blows the PCM circuitry is shorted internally and will need to be replaced! if the fuse does not blow further testing is needed!

Q:Hey i just bought a van for travling and i was wondering what can i run off a 12 volt power point?? kettle ' fan ect.: you should be able to run anything that does not exceed the amperage rating of the fuse for the power point this is usually about 10-15 amps, depending on the vehicle and what other components this fuse controls. If we consider that wattsvoltage x current that means that you should be fine with anything that is rated at under 120-180 watts or a combination of things (using a splitter) totaling less than that. Find the fuse that controls your power power point, and look at its amperage rating. I would assume that this fuse also controls other components as well (dome lights, etc.). Multiply its amperage by twleve and that is the MAXIMUM number of watts that can be used on that circuit. Since this represents the maximum number of amps possible on the circuit (and probably would result in a blown fuse) dont pick an appliance that matches the wattage number you calculate or you will overload the circuit and blow a fuse. Other than that you can use just about anything that meets these requirements.

Q:Ants got into my fuse box at my pool and now most of the electric equipment does not work. I tested the connections to the individual components and they seem to have power. My question is: is there a way to test a circuit board to see if its fried or not with a volt meter?: It would be hard to do, I feel. But, you can do a visual inspection of the components. If a capacitor or transistor etc. look burned you can test it with the meter set to Ohms but, you may have to unsolder to test. Be sure the power is off.

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