• TBBX serial LV reactive in-place compensation device System 1
TBBX serial LV reactive in-place compensation device

TBBX serial LV reactive in-place compensation device

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Brief

It is used in the AC power distribution system terminal with the 1kV voltage or less to inerease power factor,to reduce circuit loss,to improve the output of the transformer and to make the motor economically operate.It is used paralleled with the motor and the inductive load to automatically tracking compensate to the frequency factor.
Operating standard:GB7115-93.


Main features

a、The compensation accessory is elastic,direct and highly effective.
b、Invest is few and the return is big.It is very economical because the invest can pay back by the saving power fee after using it half a year.
c、Novel in structure,light in weight.
d、Using it is very easy and safe and reliable.


Mode&implication
Usage requirements

a、Surrounding atmosphere temperature:-25~+40℃;
b、Relative humidity:when 40℃≤50%,20℃≤90%;
c、Altitude:It is no more than 2000m;
d、Environment:Noharmful gases of vapor,no conductive and explosive dust,no strong mechanical shake;


Main technical parameter

a、Rated voltage:0.4~0.69kV,AC;
b、Rated frequency:50Hz;
c、Rated capacity:1~120kvar;
d、Capacity deviation:0~+15%;
e、Maximum Permitted over-voltage:it is 1.1ated voltage;
f、Maximum Permitted over-current:it is 1.30 as the rated current;
g、Discharge:The rest voltage reduces to below 50V in 3min after switch soen.
h、Protection degree:IP20;


Table of main specification,overall and installation dimension


Q:can somebody please explain the parts marked in red on the following image
The item on the left is a fuse rated at 200mA. The 47k items are 47 k ohm (47000 ohm) resistors. I have no idea what the circuit does, but at the 4 pin connector on the right, provides voltages of, from the bottom pin up, 0, 2.5 volts, 2.5 volts, and 5 volts. .
Q:and whats something that you could use to represent fusion( a model of fusion to develop an understanding of fusion)??
Okay once upon a time there was a little boy and a little girl.(aka:two nuclei) They lived next door to each other but there was a fence in between their yards.(Also known as the Coulomb barrier) Because the fence was keeping them apart, they needed a way to get together. So they tried running at the same time full force into the fence to fuse. (aka:beam-beam fusion) but that didn't work so well so they tried burning themselves at a temp of 1GK to increase their energy. Unfortunatly not all little girl and boy nuclei increase energy, while burning a 1gk, some are lower.So they didn't fuse that time either. They are SUPER tired by now, and just don't have very much energy left so what will they try next? Quantum Tunneling! They dig under the fence, and since they have just enough energy to do that together, instead of staying on either side of the fence (or repelling) they fall madly in love and become two people with one name like benifer (they join into multiple nuclei, forming a heavier nucleus) That can only happen if they come into direct contact with one another.Then there is a absorption or release of energy depending on the mass involved. I'm sorry for the crappy story, I'm sure you could spruce it up some if you need to! If you need another model you could use bubbles. The way two separate bubbles will either bind and get larger (fusion) or pop and break apart (neg reaction to barrier or the reaction to being close but not touching). Hope this helps!
Q:I have a 2000 Chevy Cavalier 2.2L Automatic. Tried starting it and nothing works. What DOES WORK are the headlights, horn, door chime, brake lights, tail lights, hazards, and the interior lights. No idiot lights, radio, heater/fan, and doesn't turn over. Battery is charged. I also put a screw driver to the posts of the starter and it sparked, so juice is going to the starter. I know that it is something electrical. What puzzles me is that not even a idiot light comes on, even when I turn on the headlights, the dash lights turns on as well and that didn't come on. Does anyone know what I should look for or check? Has anyone heard of a Relay that goes bad where GM had a recall once? No answer is a stupid answer unless you tell me to check my antifreeze. Thanks!
The ignition switch feeds power to your starter and your instrument cluster ( which is all your idiot lights). I would check for power at the ignition switch located on the steering column behind the ignition key tumbler. You should have power going into the switch at the red wire and power going out when the key is turned to the start or run position on yellow wire. Check the wires with either a DVOM or a power probe. I suspect you have a bad ignition switch. It is a 10 pin connector at the switch the Red and dark blue are battery wires so there is always power at those two. it should have power at the others when the key is turned on and to the yellow at the start position that goes to the starter.
Q:I had a heater core leak and changed it. After a good days work of tearing the dash out and all I had it back together and cranked up the Jeep to ensure no leaks, Turned the Heater on after a few and the blower was not working. Took another day of back tracking to make sure I didn't miss anything and still no blower. I have checked the fuses and even changed the Resistor still nothing. What else could it be, I know the fan is good as it was working before, the switch also never gave me a problem so I would assume it is good also.
I've heard of a lot of issues with the blower switch in your vintage Wranglers, but you can spend a lot of $ throwing parts at it hoping to find the fix. Best bet is to get an electrical multimeter and a manual and start testing. A good manual (maybe Haynes or Chilton) or better yet the Factory Service Manual will outline testing procedures for each component.
Q:I have a circuit keep blowing fuse(0.4A) with slightly lower rating of my transformer (0.5A) without any load, so i think is the issue of in-rush current. ***Note : my transformer is toroidal, saw a lot of website saying they inhibit higher inrush voltage (80times. scary)***Will the in-rush current will do any harm or any changes to other things(component) ?If so, what type or rating of fuse should i get ? (best if easily get, market available)ORis there any way to de-energize the transformer when it is turned off/before switch on, or any circuit to use for protect over-current/voltage during inrush ONLY ***Note that i want to make my circuit fuse safe from short circuit and blow the fuse if it is really short circuit***
The inrush current here happens because of the large capacitor. Initially it has no charge and no voltage, so the initial current flow into it is only limited by the resistance and reactance of the transformer. If anything a toroidal transformer would increase the inrush current, because it has less reactance! but the difference will be negligible. The usual (cheap) solution is to use a 'slow blow fuse', which wont blow from ther brief transient. Sometimes, a resistance is connected initially in series with the capacitor to minimise the initial current, and then shorted out by a relay after a small time. The limitations of a transformer are mainly due to heating: the inrush current is only a short time, so it should not cause the transformer to heat beyond its rating. Also, the rectifier may be damaged by the inrush if it exceeds its maximum 'non-repetetive' peak current rating, but this is usually very large.
Q:And my truck still want start without jumping that wire
Always double check fuses. A poor connections could be the problem but I would be suspicious of the wiring. If the wires run under the truck, make sure they aren't damaged from debris or rubbing on other components. Try jumping at the relay +. If it runs while jumped at relay +, then you know its a problem before the relay (ign switch wiring, fuses, etc)
Q:I have built a custom car and want to reuse the original fuse box under the dash. All I am running that require power is all my exterior lights, gauge lights, dome light, power windows, ignition switch, push start button, alternator, and distributor. I want my lights to have constant power to a switch just like factory but i want everything else to get power once the ignition is turned on, once again like a factory car. Any help is appreciated.
it fairly is a risk that some thing is incorrect with the the remainder of the wiring on your place. although, the electrician became not required to do something approximately any of your wiring aside from the couple of ft going into the breaker field if that cord regarded ok then he does not have any reason to alter it. truthfully rewiring the whole abode could fee way greater beneficial than $one thousand or $1200, an entire rewire ought to fee 5 or ten circumstances that lots. So the fee distinction probably has greater to do with him not having coverage, not having a employer truck to maintain, and/or only being greater desperate for some earnings. i could fee $600-800 for a job like that reckoning on what proportion circuits have been in contact and how lots difficulty it became going to be to instruct the potential off and reconnect it. once you're worried that rewiring does might desire to be achieved, take a glance on the insulation of the present wires and notice if curiously broken, or the right age to be brittle. If not, there is not any reason to think of it fairly is failing
Q:I'm doing some wiring and I do not quite understand the difference between AC12v and DC12v. I need an item to run on DC12v, Can I simply clip the wires on my object that needs DC12v and connect the appropriate ends to the appropriate battery terminals?Please do not answer (12v) ^^ Thanks!
AC 12 v probably does not exist. ac is household power source. DC 12v is car battery output, you can take power for a limited period from your car battery. depending on the amperage needed (drain on power) and condition of battery you can expect an hour for a colour t.v. to 12hrs for a radio or medium torch. at this point you will need to recharge, it is important not to completely flatten the battery, unlike ni-cads this is harmful to car batteries, you will get better results from a proper leisure battery, as used in caravans/motor homes
Q:I had this LCD TV for about 2 years and suddenly it stop working, will not turn on and has no power. It made some static noise then it just stop working. The rest of my entertainment system (audio receiver, speakers, subwoofer, radio) still works, powers on in the same electrical outlet with a power surge protector.
I think you blew a fuse on the main power supply.these units are pretty much low voltage and high current systems, and they shouldn't have problems with shorted components.
Q:I have a 2001 ford expedition. It has been completely fine until today I started it up which it starts fine but then I noticed my windows wouldnt roll down so I was like ok but then it wouldnt come out of park at all not even when I shut it off and turned the key a little.Additional DetailsOk i figured out that the #15 5amp fuse was blown but when I replaced it, it blew again does anyone know about that?
The number 15 cavity with the 5 amp fuse is for the Generic Electronic Module (GEM) and for the Brake Pedal Position (BPP) Switch. In other words you most likely either have a bad component or a short going to the above.

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