• TBBX serial LV reactive in-place compensation device System 1
TBBX serial LV reactive in-place compensation device

TBBX serial LV reactive in-place compensation device

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Brief

It is used in the AC power distribution system terminal with the 1kV voltage or less to inerease power factor,to reduce circuit loss,to improve the output of the transformer and to make the motor economically operate.It is used paralleled with the motor and the inductive load to automatically tracking compensate to the frequency factor.
Operating standard:GB7115-93.


Main features

a、The compensation accessory is elastic,direct and highly effective.
b、Invest is few and the return is big.It is very economical because the invest can pay back by the saving power fee after using it half a year.
c、Novel in structure,light in weight.
d、Using it is very easy and safe and reliable.


Mode&implication
Usage requirements

a、Surrounding atmosphere temperature:-25~+40℃;
b、Relative humidity:when 40℃≤50%,20℃≤90%;
c、Altitude:It is no more than 2000m;
d、Environment:Noharmful gases of vapor,no conductive and explosive dust,no strong mechanical shake;


Main technical parameter

a、Rated voltage:0.4~0.69kV,AC;
b、Rated frequency:50Hz;
c、Rated capacity:1~120kvar;
d、Capacity deviation:0~+15%;
e、Maximum Permitted over-voltage:it is 1.1ated voltage;
f、Maximum Permitted over-current:it is 1.30 as the rated current;
g、Discharge:The rest voltage reduces to below 50V in 3min after switch soen.
h、Protection degree:IP20;


Table of main specification,overall and installation dimension


Q: I am having a hell of a time trying to find a 1.6 micro mini fuse for a circuit board with wire leads on them. I need ones that are fast acting (so far, I have only been able to locate slow)Is it possible that I can replace the 1.6 fast acting with a 1.5 fast acting? I have a 1.6 slow fuse with leads on them. But I heard that you shouldn't use a slow fuse with sensitive electrical components where there had been a fast acting fuse prior. (I would only be running at most 50w)Thanks for any help you may offer, I am much obliged
I assume that you've already blown the 1.6 amp fuse. Have you found the cause? Although putting a smaller rated fast fuse in it's place is normally OK for the short time it takes to find the correct size, electronics are very precise in amperage. I wouldn't use the 1.5 fast or the 1.6 slow in place of the 1.6 fast. You're taking a risk that is not necessary if this is an expensive piece of equipment. Wait and find the correct one.
Q: Ants got into my fuse box at my pool and now most of the electric equipment does not work. I tested the connections to the individual components and they seem to have power. My question is: is there a way to test a circuit board to see if its fried or not with a volt meter?
It would be hard to do, I feel. But, you can do a visual inspection of the components. If a capacitor or transistor etc. look burned you can test it with the meter set to Ohms but, you may have to unsolder to test. Be sure the power is off.
Q: Hi, I have a 1996 Cadillac Eldorado ETC with 180K miles. It has been running fine except for starting, it used to take a few cranks at times but other than that it was fine. My fuel pump seemed to have had failed and I replaced it with another but I still don't get any fuel pressure to the fuel rail. I have replaced the fuel filter, and a fuel pump relay located in the engine bay driver side fuse box. I have also installed an inline fuel pump and that get gas to the rails but it lack the high pressure required for EFI. My original fuel pump works now that I have tested it, so that was not the problem, it seems it might be an electrical issue since there seems to be no power getting to the in-tank fuel pump. My question.- Is there any other electrical components I need to look for and replace that control the power sent to the fuel pump? I cant afford to take it to any shop, or put it on a diagnostics system, I have to be able to bypass or rigg or fix myselfwhat do you think?
run a jumper wire to ur relay from a remote hot wire in ur fuse panel, but first check ur crank or cam sensor. that can cause the starting issue
Q: I unplugged an air freshner from my lighter. Immediatly after I noticed my lighter, dome light, power antenna, rear defrost, key in ignition chime and the lights at the bottom of the doors didn't work anymore. I switched all fuses in fuse box with new ones and the same components still didn't work. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Are you sure that you checked ALL your fuses? Sometimes there are fuse blocks under the hood also. I'm just not familiar with your car specificly but it sure sounds like a fuse problem and I would start by ruling out that you DID in fact check all the fuses. Check the owners manual to see if there are some in another location that maybe you missed.
Q: I turned on my car to go to work and I noticed my windshield wiper fluid kept spraying. I got to a stop sign and turned off my car for a few seconds and when I started it up again the problem continued. I got to work and thought I would try it again, same result. Same happened after work and this morning. I see how to fix the problem, hopefully, but how do I fix it? I thought I got the fuse, I think it's called (not really a car person), and I tried getting it off but only a plastic part did. Any help?
so your spray isnt working change the fluids
Q: car will not start, could it be some thing to do with time for oil change. Have new starter andd battery. Still can not turn motor over. Turn key loud clicking from fuse box under seat!
That's what you get when you buy an American Tuna Boat.
Q: I have a 14ft V-bottom Lund fishing boat. Use it for fishing and whatnot. It is a pretty basic boat, no previous wiring. Here is the setup I am thinking of doing.Batteries will be up front under one of my seats. I am going to parallel two 12Vs together, and then run 4 awg wire to the back of the boat. The positive side will have a 20amp fuse. I am going to run these into two ground bars, one for the positive side and one for the negative side. All my components i wanna run will then hook up to these ground bars as well. I have a trolling motor, navigation lights, and going to put a CD player in it as well. And maybe a cigarette lighter. Do i need to be worried about anything or will this work fine? Should have more fuses or run a fuse panel instead of the ground bars? Any help would be great. The wiring is expensive, and i dont want to ruin it somehow. Thanks.
Run an 80A fuse at the battery end to protect the #4 GA.Put a 15A or 20A fuse on each small accessory load wire leaving your ground bar.The trolling motor will be your biggest load,it may need a 40 or 50A fuse.
Q: Four electrical components are connected to a 120v household circuit. The light bulb dissipates 100W, the electric heater 1800W, the stereo 350W, and the hair dryer 1200W. The fuse protecting the circuit is a 20A fuse. Will the fuse blow? Justify your decision with calculations and explanations.
Yes. adding up all the power gives 3450 W total. using PVI we find, 3450 120I I 28.75 A when the current rating of a fuse is exceeded it breaks the circuit. The total current of the circuit exceeds 20 A and the fuse will blow.
Q: I am looking to short out a resistor - any way I can actually short one out so that it is faulty of its own. Also, any ideas if i can blow one so it is open or is the fact it ends up being shorted or open a random thing that when it is bad it just so happens to be one or the other, not that certain conditions produce one and other conditions produce the other.Any insight into this is very helpfull. Oh, I know about use the jumper wire to reproduce a shorted component I was hoping to actually use a damaged component and I do not have one right now. Thank You Kindly One and All(this is not a school related lesson, I am trying to teach myself at home - I'm an adult learner).
there are many kinds of resistors. fixed carbon resistors have a wattage rating. if you exceed the wattage (may be dangerous) the resistor will heat up excessively and burn. it stops burning when it is physically broken and cannot continue to conduct electricity (or blows the fuse). this then creates an open circuit. open circuits are commonly misnamed short circuits. a short circuit happens when the electricity in a circuit takes a shorter (or different) path than the circuit was designed. this may burn out a circuit component, then you will have an open circuit. does this make sense?
Q: Convergence is at its proper crossed white lines.Convergence resistors and pico fuses maybe?Any help would be appreciated.Thanks
If it had bad fuses the cross would be misaligned. If you move the red and blue up and down and the whole picture moves (the red and blue part) then I suspect a vertical deflection problem. This could be the output ic, the jungle ic, or associated component and connections. The only way to find out is with an 0-scope in a shop.

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