• FD6.4-5000-16 Wind Generator with High Quality System 1
  • FD6.4-5000-16 Wind Generator with High Quality System 2
FD6.4-5000-16 Wind Generator with High Quality

FD6.4-5000-16 Wind Generator with High Quality

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1. Product Description:

Wind energy is used as the motive power to provide low speed rotation of a permanent magnet generator to produce alternating current which is then converted to direct current by a controlled constant voltage rectification system, the resulting voltage being stored in a battery, or batteries. The direct current from the battery, (batteries), is then converted to alternating current by an inverter, the resulting controlled and stabilised alternating current being used to power the load, this is the general principle for battery storage type systems.

 

2. Product Characteristic:

The products are used in areas that benefit from good wind regimes but have little or no electrical grid connection such as; islands, desert and low inhabitation areas, frontier defence posts, microwave and telephone communication stations, forest observation posts, oil pipeline delivery stations, highway lighting etc. Rural and urban applications include, community squares and recreational areas, parks, landscape and scenic locations, resorts, and other ecological areas, applications also include on or off grid national electrified fencing systems.

 

3.Specification

Type:  3 Blade Upwind

Rotor Diameter: 6.4 m

Start-up Wind Speed:  2.5 m/s (5.6 mph)

Rated Power: 5000 Watts

Cut-Out Wind Speed:  15m/s(33.5mph)

Timing manner: automatically adjust the windward angle

Temperature Range:  -40 to +60 Deg. C (-40 to +140 Deg. F)

 

4. Reference Picture:

FD6.4-5000-16 Wind Generator with High Quality

Q:I have a Rover 420 GSI with an electrical problem. Battery drains over about 40 hours. Replaced it with a new battery. The alternator has also been tested. There is a 4A current being drawn all the time from the battery, when the car is turned off (overnight). I have tried removing all the fueses I can find but nothing makes it drop. I am no great electrical expert. owever, Ive tried removing the Alternator and fan out of line. As it wears down the battery the battery light starts indicating on the dashboard. I am guessing there is a relay or something held open. Is there some easy way of testing them? Thanks.
the surge whilst shifting into rigidity sounds like a very self sufficient difficulty. many times it incredibly is led to by capacity of low computerized Transmission Fluid. If it hasn't been run in a collectively as, it takes a 2d for it to warmth up so it fills the torque converter thoroughly. before it lurches, it probably sounds like it incredibly is desiring to have extreme RPMs to flow a low velocity. If it makes an extremely loud slamming noise, it incredibly is possible some thing interior the transmission itself is a difficulty, yet in many circumstances it sounds extra like grinding, as though the gears did not somewhat catch. If the motor vehicle starts off, runs and has 14.x volts on the battery, then your floor isn't a difficulty. make helpful in spite of the incontrovertible fact which you have the extremely floor strap grounded to the motor vehicle. at times the helpful cable to the starter is wrapped in black that may bring about issues and a presently lifeless battery in case you floor it to the chassis. yet it incredibly is probably not the difficulty for you. Like different persons have stated, short circuits would reason a speedy battery drain. while you're leaving it for a week and the battery is dying, i does not hassle too lots. the motor vehicle i'm engaged on perfect now, (1986 BMW 325e with 1991 525i engine) loses adequate power over the process a week if it incredibly is not run so as that even the electrical powered locks do not paintings, much less initiate. My chum's 1989 325is seems to run dry quickly too. element is, some automobiles in simple terms are enormous battery wasters and in case you do not rigidity it many times, it's going to lose its charge notably without postpone. wish i've got been effectual, and strong luck fixing your difficulty!
Q:I need to get a ball park idea regarding fixing or replacing the cigarette lighter in my car--- 2005 Hyundai Accent specifically, but curious how much it would cost for any car. It is not a fuse problem--- when I was pulling my phone charger out, it ripped some component out with it (a metal ring and a smaller metal piece). If I try to plug something it, it sparks and caused my GPS unit to reset, etc.
About 5 bucks and 5 minutes
Q:i the wiring going to the fue box bad or is the ecu bad?
Put a fuse that is correctly rated for that slot. Turn the ignition on (engine off) and see if the fuse pops. Right now you may have a short in that system. You need to recreate the situation that popped the fuse in the first place. The only way for wiring to go bad is to draw to many amps through the wires that will in turn, melt the wires. The fuse box is there to protect the vital components of the car. If the mass air flow sensor is not working, the car will not stay running. It will start, but not stay running.
Q:I unplugged an air freshner from my lighter. Immediatly after I noticed my lighter, dome light, power antenna, rear defrost, key in ignition chime and the lights at the bottom of the doors didn't work anymore. I switched all fuses in fuse box with new ones and the same components still didn't work. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
A Fuse it that simple one fuse power many thing it only cost like a dollar to but and 1 min to change so good luck
Q:During the battle of Gettysburg, the gunfire was so intense that several bullets collided in mid-air and fused together. Assume a 5g union musket ball was moving right at a speed of 250m/s, 20 degrees above the horizontal. A 3g confederate ball was moving to the left at a speed of 280m/s, 15 degrees above the horizontal. Immediately after they fuse together.1.what is their velocity??2.what is their kinetic energy??3.was this elastic or inelastic, why?
Answer part 1 using conservation of momentum Use the answer from part 1 to compute the kinetic energy of the fused bullets It was inelastic since the bullets stuck together 1) Since momentum is a vector quantity, we need to look at the horizontal and vertical components separately and then look at the resultant to find the outcome: Vertical: 1.25*sin(20)+.84*sin(15).008Vv 80.6m/s horizontal 1.25*cos(20)-.84*cos(15).008Vh 45.4m/s The resultant velocity is sqrt(80.6^2+45.4^2) 92.5m/s 2) The kinetic energy is 1/2*m*v^2 .5*.008*92.5*92.5 34.225 3) the kinetic energy before collision was .5*(.005*250*250+.003*280*280) 274 The loss in kinetic energy is typical in an inelastic collision j
Q:Honda accord LX 2003 ac and wiper refuse to work.
Check the fuse relay that's related to those circuits.If they are not blown,its either a problem in the wiring harness going to the wiper switch or ac clutch switch ac compressor switch,the switch itself like the multifunction switch that controls the wiper,,or its something wrong with the actual components that the fuse and relay powers such as the wiper motor or ac compressor.If the ac wiper button are on the same control panel,the panel itself is probably faulty if fuses are ok
Q:I was able to find out what the source of amperage draw was coming from, and it is the IOD. It is drawing 0.426 amps. The meter reads 0.923 and the Vehicle reads 0.497 without it installed. Generally, vehicles should have this amount to begin with correct? What could possibly be the issue with the IOD? Why is there an excess in amperage draw?
Typical settled current passing through the Ignition Off Draw fuse should be .005-.035 amps for retention of memory in radio/cluster etc. When testing, this current needs to be measured for a few minutes as it can remain high for up to three minutes. Ensure hood light is unplugged and all doors remain closed during testing so the illuminated entry system isn't activated. If contact is lost on the fuse terminals at any time during the test, internal timers in electronic components may reset requiring the test to start again. If you are getting .497A with the IOD fuse removed you have draw from another circuit and need to start pulling fuses one at a time to isolate the circuit drawing that current.
Q:explain
They are used to protect the circuit from overloads, this prevents fires and protects components of the circuit.
Q:Hi I have a LG motion from Metro PCS. A fuse popped when I had my phone plugged into the charger. It seems to be loading slower, but still turns on. Is their a sure fire way to tell if their has been any electrical damage? thanks.
Fuses and circuit breakers are shielding instruments to steer away from hearth in case of a short circuit or overload. while they blow or holiday, they're doing their activity preserving you and your domicile. If whether, a fuse blows as quickly as you replace it, or a circuit breaker journeys as quickly as you reset it, you have a confusing short in that circuit. do no longer put in a greater amperage fuse, or shop attempting to reset the breaker. examine each and all of the a lot on that circuit. Unplug each thing from the shops and take a glance at changing the fuse or resetting the breaker lower back. If it nevertheless blows/journeys as we talk, examine your lighting fixtures. in case you have an previous fluorescent fixture, you have between the previous ballast transformers that has shorted. Get a qualified electrician to provider the sunshine for you. If whether, the fuse remains good and the breaker would not holiday, something you unplugged is inflicting the quick. examine each and each load via plugging them in, separately till you come across the single that blows the fuse or journeys the breaker. it is the wrongdoer. If whether, no longer something i've got pronounced works, you in all probability have a wiring project that must be repaired via a qualified electrician.
Q:Can all the components plug in to 1 output( 6V DC)? Will the current drop? What is the best way to distribute in order to maintain no current drop.
If the loads aren't fused, they should be. The easiest and cleanest way to connect this many loads to one voltage supply is to use a fuse block. The link below shows one variety. I don't know if you can find a fuse block that holds 20 fuses but you could use two fuse blocks with 10 fuses. I've done this many times. It's much neater and easier to work with than a bunch of wires going to one connection.

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