FD5.0-3000-16 Wind Generator

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1. Product Description:

The products are used in areas that benefit from good wind regimes but have little or no electrical grid connection such as; islands, desert and low inhabitation areas.

Applications also include on or off grid national electrified fencing systems.The utilization of wind energy at no on-going cost significantly reduces the environmental impact of fossil fuel usage whilst saving vital energy resources.

2. Product Characteristic:

The products combine unique and innovative design with high reliability. The innovative design has been awarded both Invention and Practical new patents by the State Intellectual Key design features such as very low rotation speed result in increased efficiency in comparison to other small turbine systems.

3.Specification：

Type: FD5.O-3000-16

Rotor Diameter: 5.0 m

Start-up Wind Speed: 2.5 m/s (5.6 mph)

Cut-in Wind Speed: 3 m/s (6.7 mph)

Rated Wind Speed: 10m/s (22.4mph)

Rated Power: 3000 Watts

Maximum Power: ~ 4000 Watts

Cut-Out Wind Speed: 15m/s(33.5mph)

Timing manner: automatically adjust the windward angle

Temperature Range: -40 to +60 Deg. C (-40 to +140 Deg. F)

4. Reference Picture:

FD5.0-3000-16 Wind generator

Q:I have a 94 town car. The check air suspension light came on. The compressor sounds fine but I want to check the fuse which this might also be the problem. I kno its under the hood in the fuse box, but which one is it? Anyone? Thanks: compressor has a 30amp fuse, but, if the compressor runs, no fuse to check, probably have leaking air springs in rear

Q:Hi everybody, I tried asking somebody to check the engine light on my car, they accidentally jumped the wrong cable which seems to have stopped my sony car stereo from working now. I checked the radio fuse and fuse behind the stereo and they all look fine. I am still able to eject and insert a CD into the system so that means that power is getting to it right? Is there a reason why the head unit doesn't come on?also Is it possible to fry your cars wiring with this mistake? But isn't that what the fuses are for? Is it just my head unit?thanks in advance!: If this is a manufacturing facility stereo on a overdue mannequin vehicle that you simply purchased new, then there's a well risk that your trader gave you somewhat card that has a quantity on it. Sometimes they placed this within the packet that you simply walked out of the dealership with, and mostly they only placed it on your glove field. If you cannot discover this quantity, then there's a risk that the dealership can reset it for youfor a rate mostly. The simplest difficulty I see is if you have no energy in any respect to the stereo (clock is not on, no safeguard caution at the show, and many others.) then they'll have blown a fuse on your fuse pannel whilst the alternator used to be hooked up. Even worse, if the fuse the radio is connected to didn't blow whilst there used to be a surge find it irresistible used to be meant to, then your radio is also burned up. Either approach, it seems like you want legit support. Stop via your regional stereo save, or dealershipwhichever is extra handy. It does not price something to invite them a query. Good success.

Q:I check the fuses and they are good.: No one will know why until all the components are checked. Take a look at the seat switch and the seat control unit, located under the seat, as well as the seat motor(s) and the electrical wiring.

Q:I have a 2000 Ranger I turned it off and it would not start again I have power to head and dome lights, replaced the 50 blade fuse position number 5 in the power management box and it worked for 1 to 2 sec then burnt out again. is it the starter relay, the ignition switch, the starter or something else. anyone have this problem? how did you fix it? any help would be greatly appreciated: a three or a 5 amp fuse would be positive, as long as your heater works once you slot the plug there is not any would desire to purchase a clean one. If the heater is going defective it particularly is going to easily blow the fuse, yet there is not any reason it is going to.

Q:I recently bought an old 2002 Hyundai Elantra, and it runs ok, except it won't start nearly every morning. My mechanic told me the battery's most likely going. The only reason I'm thinking it's something else is because every morning when I go to start the car, there's a loud, intermittent noise coming from the fuse box; it's like a loud grinding/electrical noise that only lasts about a second at a time, but continually comes back almost on perfect rhythm (think of your directional, same sort of rhythm). Sometimes the lights will flash on and off with the noise too. Could this be something other than a bad battery? Or is it possible that these symptoms suggest a more electrical problem? Any help is greatly appreciated!: From your description, I understand that indeed there is an electrical problem. I would start with what is called wiggle test. While engine is running, try gently to wiggle the fuse box back and forward. Should you find any abnormalities in engine running or engine stalls or anything that shouldn't be doing out of the ordinary, you can say that the fuse box is your problem. If all good, secondly I would remove the fuse box and do a pin test on all fuse box connectors from under the box (wiring harness that plugs into fuse box). This will tell you if any male connector is loose. Should you have any loose connectors, just close them up a tiny bid so that they wont move. Before you put the box back, apply some electrical stabilant to ensure proper conductivity on all electrical components. This procedure could be time consuming but is well worth it to try. Finally, before you do all these actions please, have someone doing an AVR test to ensure your battery is good and entire charging/starting system is normal. Hope this will help you.

Q:explain: They are used to protect the circuit from overloads, this prevents fires and protects components of the circuit.

Q:After putting in a new stereo, my instrument panel lights will not come on. All the maintenance lights will turn on upon starting the car, but once started, I cannot see the speedometer or any of that stuff. The lights for the heat/AC knobs won't illuminate either. The 12volt does light up, as does the stock clock and the new stereo. I am not sure if there is a fuse for this, I looked through the manual and found nothing to indicate that there would be. I have checked the dimmer dial to make sure it's all the way on. Nothing was unplugged other than the stereo components so I'm not sure what happened. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.: double check your stereo wiring. and check fuses.

Q:can fresh jump starting of battery (2 hours/10miles) or burnt fuse of horn/lighter cause this problem?thanks for all answers: It is important to know the type of vehicle to make a correct diagnosis! Not the jump start.but yes, a blown fuse WILL cause a check engine light if it is powering a component of the OBDII system! And in this case it is very common to have the power for the OBDII connector on the lighter fuse with no power to the OBDII connector you can expect to see a bunch of communication codes (U1***) in the system (Wonder what the auto zone employee would do if he had no communication at the OBDII connector?) 1. Faulty oxygen sensor The sensor measures the amount of unburned oxygen in the exhaust and tells the car's computer how much fuel is in the tank. Would MSNBC Really print this without verifying the source? WTF?? Most common reason for the check engine light-#1. Catalytic converter efficiency P0420 #2 Misfire P03**, #3 EVAP system leak detected P04** #4 Lean codes P0171+P0174 and finally #5 O2 sensor!

Q:I just picked up my 1996 Jeep Cherokee from the shop. My mechanic fixed the ignition and a couple of other things, but now the power windows, blinkers, A/C and heat won't work. I checked the fuses, but they all appear to be fine. I'm gonna contact the guy tomorrow, but I just thought someone might have some insight. Thanks.: vfdsdfv

Q:I have 2 12inch subs in a ported box in my trunk facing back would the bass be any better if i turned them facing front or does it matter ? The bass in the car is massive but out side not to much except you can hear the trunk rattle i want more bass to the front not the back. i want to rattle the car in front of me not the behind me .On a different matter what makes the subs hum when the amp is on and the car is running the amp kit is new the amp is a dual 600 watt 4 channel amp and it is bridged 8 gauge power and 8 gauge ground in line fuse twisted component wires(RCA Cables) and nothing touching or any open wires: For more bass get a more powerful amp and use a smaller gauge wire like 4 or 0 gauge and a mono block amp is good for bass. But if you turn them facing inside the car and let the rear seat down you will achieve your goal.

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