FD5.0-3000-16 Wind Generator

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1. Product Description:

The products are used in areas that benefit from good wind regimes but have little or no electrical grid connection such as; islands, desert and low inhabitation areas.

Applications also include on or off grid national electrified fencing systems.The utilization of wind energy at no on-going cost significantly reduces the environmental impact of fossil fuel usage whilst saving vital energy resources.

2. Product Characteristic:

The products combine unique and innovative design with high reliability. The innovative design has been awarded both Invention and Practical new patents by the State Intellectual Key design features such as very low rotation speed result in increased efficiency in comparison to other small turbine systems.

3.Specification：

Type: FD5.O-3000-16

Rotor Diameter: 5.0 m

Start-up Wind Speed: 2.5 m/s (5.6 mph)

Cut-in Wind Speed: 3 m/s (6.7 mph)

Rated Wind Speed: 10m/s (22.4mph)

Rated Power: 3000 Watts

Maximum Power: ~ 4000 Watts

Cut-Out Wind Speed: 15m/s(33.5mph)

Timing manner: automatically adjust the windward angle

Temperature Range: -40 to +60 Deg. C (-40 to +140 Deg. F)

4. Reference Picture:

FD5.0-3000-16 Wind generator

Q: I have built a custom car and want to reuse the original fuse box under the dash. All I am running that require power is all my exterior lights, gauge lights, dome light, power windows, ignition switch, push start button, alternator, and distributor. I want my lights to have constant power to a switch just like factory but i want everything else to get power once the ignition is turned on, once again like a factory car. Any help is appreciated.: Best bet for the BAT/alternator fuse is a fuse link or maxi-fuse and you will save a bunch of heavy guage wiring. Your ignition switch may have one or two ACC wires and usually only one RUN wire and one B+ (battery feed). Determine which wires you want to feed the fuse panel strips with and hook them up to the common fuse box junctions - then run you accessory and other component wiring from the appropriate fuses in the box. Use the BAT feed wire from the ignition switch for your lighting fuses. More often than not, your head lamp switch has an internal circuit breaker for the head lamps.

Q: I wrote to the company and they said they can't (or won't) identify the thermal fuse rating, nor will they tell me where to get one. They told me to just buy a new fryer for $50. I don't want to do that, being that I know the fuse costs $2 (I just replaced on my coffee machine). The numbers on the old one are illegible. If I knew the specific rating, I think I could just scoot down to the local Radio Shack and get a new one, like I did for the coffee maker. I can find no service manual anywhere. I assume the rating has to be at least 450 degrees F, but I want to get some more info before replacing what is essentially a fail-safe protection device. If I get on that is rated to high, I run the risk of severely overheating the unit, and I have teenagers who may use it; too low, and it will blow before the oil gets nearly hot enough to fry my chicken. I know I can make the thing operate without the fuse, but I would like to replace it. Any info?: If the old fuse is open, it did what it was supposed to do. Until the cause is found and repaired it will continue to open when it is used. Take the unit in to a local service center and have it repaired or purchase a new unit. The reason the company will not give you the information you request is a product liability issue. If you install a fuse in a faulty unit and burn down your home they are concerned about an insurance claim. For $50 it is not worth risking your home with a fire and your insurance deductible is probably much higher than $50. All advice on this site is worth what you pay for it and that is the limit of the liability.

Q: can somebody please explain the parts marked in red on the following image: The item on the left is a fuse rated at 200mA. The 47k items are 47 k ohm (47000 ohm) resistors. I have no idea what the circuit does, but at the 4 pin connector on the right, provides voltages of, from the bottom pin up, 0, 2.5 volts, 2.5 volts, and 5 volts. .

Q: I'm doing some wiring and I do not quite understand the difference between AC12v and DC12v. I need an item to run on DC12v, Can I simply clip the wires on my object that needs DC12v and connect the appropriate ends to the appropriate battery terminals?Please do not answer (12v) ^^ Thanks!: Yes well in a car it is higher that that while it is running but it will work for your purposes there is around 12 VDC at the positive terminal with respect to the negative terminal or car ground if that terminal is wired to the car or engine. You can wire directly if you are a brave soul but for safety you might want to put a fuse in the positive line before connecting it to the battery in case a short develops. The fuse size would just be over the amperage requirement for the device you are powering. If you are not sure start with a 1 amp fuse and work your way up in size if it blows if it doesn't then it should do the trick and protect some minimal protection if things go wrong.

Q: I had the fuse break on a Joker 200 light, but I don't know what could cause a surge of electricity (no lightning storm at the time). If it matters, it could have been on the same line as a coffee maker/toaster/microwave. Please help me out. Thanks!: A surge is not going to blow a fuse IN a ballast. A fuse will blow when there is too much current flowing - which might be a loose wire touching ground or two wires shorting. If the fuse is in the fuse box then something else being on the circuit might blow the fuse.

Q: Hi , I want to know what are the various components which needs to be fitted for putting AC in my non-AC Maruti 800? I want to make sure the mechanic doesn't take me for a ride.: Wow. That's a lot of work and parts. Start with the compressor, which is expensive for an average car, plus condenser, high and low pressure valves, hoses, lines, sensors, expansion valve, and the relay system which will need to be wired into your existing fuse system, which may have to be replaced as well. He'll have to use new parts because old parts from junk cars will have dry rot and corrosion, plus it's not good for AC systems to sit for long periods with no pressure or oil inside.

Q: Help me please. My son installed a battery into his 99 ford escort. However he attached neg to pos and pos to neg. Can this fry out the alternator. Or could it simply be something electrical. There was a wire left off, going to somewhere. And a black wire coming from the internal fuse box.: The alternator and other components might be fried also, have a mechanic check everything

Q: For professional mechanics. I have a 93 buik regal with a 3800. It has no ignition fire. It began with intermittent stalling but would start back up. Then it wouldn't start at all. The control module and coils have proven to be good (tested on another vehicle). It has new cam and crank sensor. Harmonic balancer has no damage to the interrupter rings. PCM is good (tested on another vehicle), Cam is turning and cam magnet is present. Performed a thorough continuity check on all wiring in the circuit from every single point, checks good. Still no fire. What did I miss? Remember, all components in the circuit is good and I'm positive the timing chain is not broken.: Well, you show that your fingerprints are all over the components, BUT- how about diagnostics? Have you done pin-out tests at the PCM? G.M. has a known failure rate in the harnesses. Have you tested for voltage? Have you checked the vRef for the components? When you turn the key on, does the MIL illuminate? If not, check the fuses and Vpwr for the PCM. If the MIL does illuminate, have you checked for Diagnostic Codes? If you need, e-mail me, and I will see if I can help out!

Q: A couple of years ago I installed after market speakers in the rear of my car and kept the stock speakers in the front. I connected an amp to the rear speakers. It was working fine but one day I drive my car and notice only the front speakers (the stock ones) are playing. I pop open the hood and notice the amp wire was disconnected from the fuse going into the battery. I reconnect them and turn on the stereo but still there is no sound to the rear speakers. I can hear the tweeters I have make a fuzzing noise, though. Anyone have any ideas on what the problem is?: whilst you're finding for some low-fee audio equipment i might get some Pioneer, they at the instant are not that incredibly greater desirable than the manufacturers you have stated and that they are going to sound a lot greater desirablei might stay faraway from Lazar thoroughly Boss some human beings are transforming into sturdy audio equipment from them others do unlike them. they're usual greater for their amps Pyle the comparable, the two sturdy and undesirable comments, individually i've got heard pyle and that i did no longer like they way they sound. yet another low-fee sort that some human beings like are Phoenix Gold and AudiobahnI actual have had a pair of audiobahn audio equipment and that i became into incredibly inspired with their sound, additionally I actual have considered opposition all audiobahn autos take homestead the trophies too some years lower back.

Q: Hi guys, I just Blew my guitar amplifer fuse.because it was a unit from the US and Accidentally got the wrong converter here in Shanghai. It so hard looking for a fuse that has the EXACT inscription 2A 250Vall I can find is 2AL 250 Vis this the same type? And do you think the power outage could do some damgae to the amplifier components even after blowing the fuse? I used some emergency fuse to test.so far its working and there are signs of life from this babyany suggestions?perhaps Im jsut being too paranoid and OC?: L Fast acting. Must use same type.

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