• Temperature Fuse System 1
Temperature Fuse

Temperature Fuse

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China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
5000 Pieces pc
Supply Capability:
300000 Pieces per Day pc/month

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1.Thermal Fuse high current capacity. 

2.Sensitive to ambient temperature. 

3.Single operation over-temperature protection

 

Temperature Fuse: 

1.Rated Current:10A&15A (AC) 
2.Rated Volt:125V&250V (AC) 
3.Rated Temperature:73-240C 
4.Color:Silver 

 

Using scope:

Suitable for refrigerator elec. , oven boiling pot , iron etc business machines of household appliances.

Q:I have the right fuse the cord is ok the capacitors appear to be ok I don't see anything that stands out to let me know where the problem is. I change the fuse and as soon as I plug it in it blows.
This answer isn't going to be very helpful, but it is the best one I can give without being there in person to snoop, meter and prod things a bit. You likely have some component in the power supply section that has gone out of tolerance by shorting quietly. This occurs when a resistance drops enough to blow fuses rapidly, but the very fact that it blows fuses rapidly keeps it from ever damaging anything to the point of finding the problem with a visual inspection. My best guess from here is that this model VCR / DVD has quiescent state power so that it can be used with a remote control at all times. That leads me to believe that the problem itself would be in either the particular section of the power supply that provides this power or in the sections dealing with the remote sensor and any micro controller that interprets and activates those commands. There is one fairly simple possibility you might have overlooked. Make sure that no connectors or bare wires are against the case that you can see. Also check for minor discolorations of the boards due to heating. If you aren't a qualified tech or a talented hobbyist with tools available such as a multimeter, this will be very difficult for you to track and repair yourself I'm afraid. And, as always, it isn't safe to work around equipment you're not thoroughly familiar with, even disconnected. Best advice is take it in for repairs or replace it. Sorry I can't be of more help.
Q:I have a 1994 GMC Jimmy that keeps blowing the instrament panel and gauges fuse. After the vehicle has warmed up for about a half hour the fuse blows then the transmission won't shift all the gauges go out speedometer and odometer included. When i put a new fuse in it blows instantly. I know that their must be a short somewhere but can u tell me where the most common place might be for that to happen. I have already disconnected the rear defogger.
There are 4 fuses that run the cluster I need to know witch fuse is blowing to be helpful
Q:I bought a Yamaha subwoofer from some dud for $40 and the little red and black things don't workthe subwoofer has built in power and umm I tried plugging in 2 different speakers and they don't work.the hole to put in(red n black) is this screw and I'm guessing you put in the output right? is there anyway to fix this?model no. is YST-SW150
Take the bass driver out of the cabinet, take a flash light and look inside to see if you can see any lose wires, or damage if you do see lose wires solder those wires back where they belong reassemble the unit and try it outif there is something else wrong and there are no lose wires, you may have to replace a resistor or relay or it could be a fusedownload a service manual from the Internet and use that to find the fusecheck all components for damage or leakage.if you find something that looks blotted or is leaking look in the service manual for the proper value buy a replacement part of same value and replace it.but just try replacing the fuse firstfuses come in all sizes and shapes so sometimes you cannot tell where it is just by looking
Q:I had the fuse break on a Joker 200 light, but I don't know what could cause a surge of electricity (no lightning storm at the time). If it matters, it could have been on the same line as a coffee maker/toaster/microwave. Please help me out. Thanks!
The main component in the ballast is a large inductor, and if a turn gets shorted, it will draw high current. Suspect the ballast. Also, with a coffee maker and a microwave, the total current could be too high for the circuit breaker.
Q:Battery is Good, Alternator is good, both have been tested. My car starts up with no problem. when im driving in a neighborhood without having to apply alot of pressure on the gas everything is fine. But the moment i enter a freeway/highway where i have to press the gas a little harder my alternator fuse (30a) blows instantly as soons i begin to speed up the battery light comes on. I put another fuse in and same thing, everything is fine when im not pressing the gas hard but the moment i have to apply pressure my alternator fuse blows and the Battery comes on. So replcaed the fuse once again. This time i put some tape around my O2 Sensor wires. And wala! It worked, no fuse blowing when i speed up but then after like 15 min of driving it started back :/. What could be a possible fix?? thanks!!
Defective regulator/rectifier.
Q:I recently lost my internal lights, clock and annoying whine that tells me I left the lights on. I worked out where the fuse was after like, an hour of searching the internet forums and found the fuse that deals with the internal lights and clock. Low and behold, it was blown, replaced it with the spare 7.5 rated fuse, checked it, lights came on and clock, and then after about a minute, the fuse blew again. Any ideas what the prob could be? Plus, I couldnt find the fuse for the annoying whine that lets me know the lights are on. Neither could I find any fuse box layouts on the internet, anyone able to help me out?
First you need to find out if the short is in the wiring for this fuse or wiring from this fuse and another. To do this remove half the fuses prior to replacing the blown fuse. If it still blows then all the fuses are eliminated. Now remove the other half and if it still blows then the problem is within the wiring for just that one fuse. Next unplug the items connected to that fuse and then replace the fuse. If it still blows you have a wiring problem. Either seek help or run new wires. If when you unplug a component connect to the wires for this fuse and the fuse does not blow most likely that part is your problem.I an sure this well help you because i try it before and it work it won't harm your car and good luck
Q:Both the windows and the interior light all quit simultaniously any ideas
blown fuse
Q:I have an older 2-channel Sanyo audio receiver. It takes two fuses (one fuse for each speaker channel). The fuses that were originally in the receiver were 2A fuses. They are blown and I need to find replacements. I have two 4A fuses I pulled from an old stereo component system. They're both the same as the original fuses but they're 4A. Would it be safe for me to put them in the receiver? And if so, could I be able to turn the system up fairly loud without frying it due to using 4A fuses? Or should I avoid this altogether? It doesn't matter if I fry the system because it's old, but I'm more concerned if it created sparks or smoke or even started a fire.
The older gentleman is correct. You can use 4A fuses, but if one of your speakers (or wires) shorts out, that action might destroy the amp instead of blowing that fuse. No, you will not get more power out of it, but make sure that the unit has enough ventilation to properly breath so it doesn't get too hot during operation.
Q:I have dont have a fuel injected bike.Its a suzuki rf600does the wiring fry that easily ? ( if thats the case?)
You okorder
Q:Hey all, I just bought a 1981 Subaru GL on Saturday--my first car, yay!Anyways the guy I bought it from said that the headlight fuse ocasionally blows out. Yep, its done it twice since I've had it.The first time I was driving and charging my phone in the cigarette lighter (maybe it can't handle everything at once?). Second time was two hours ago I went to start the car and the lights wouldn't come on.What's the underlying issue here? Fuses are cheap and easy to find but id rather fix it for good than having to buy a new set of fuses every couple if weeks.
Check your wiring harness. It can be shorting out if there is contact between two bare wires (rat damage) or a wire that is not grounded properly. Make sure nothing is stripped or bare, you should never be able to see through the plastic on wires. Make sure your battery is not corroded and grounded properly. Test light your harness to make sure the hots are hot and the nots are not. There is a lot of stuff on forums for wiring diagrams and such to make sure that no one pieced it together wrong or cut/spliced into something they shouldn't have. If your Lights are spliced with a higher voltage component the wires will get hotter than they were designed for and that will cause a fuse to burn out. Hope that helps. Follow the wires from the back of your headlight all the way to the firewall and make sure connection to battery is still good (will will likely have to pry apart that black slinky looking wire cover to make sure it's all good under the hood). Make sure to check for signs of pests!
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1. Manufacturer Overview

Location Guangdong,China (Mainland)
Year Established 2003
Annual Output Value
Main Markets North America; Eastern Europe; Southeast Asia; Mid East; Western Europe;
Company Certifications ISO 9001:2000

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