• DDS2222 Series Single-phase Electronic Ammeter System 1
  • DDS2222 Series Single-phase Electronic Ammeter System 2
DDS2222 Series Single-phase Electronic Ammeter

DDS2222 Series Single-phase Electronic Ammeter

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1. Product Description:

1.Good temperature characterstics, keep good accuracy from -25 to 55;

2. Good accuracy under lower load;

3. High online measure accuracy;

4. Easy mounting (nothing to do with mounting place);

5. High overload capabality(more than 6 times);

6. No variation after transportation;

 

2. Product Characteristic:

DDS2222 series use digit energy measurement technics and SMT technics. key parts use famous company’s components to ensure the reliability and use life. The product has antifraud function to measure ac energy with reference frequency 50Hz or 60Hz

3.Specification

1.Operation voltage range0.9Un-1.1Un;

2.Refrence frequency50Hz60Hz;

3.Power consumption:<1W / 5VA;

4. Conform to GB/T 17215 -2002 (IEC 61036:2000) standard;

5.Specified working temperature range: -25℃~55;

6.Limit operation temperature range-40℃~70;

7.Relative humidity less than 85%(under 23);

 

4. Reference Picture:

Q:I have an 04 ford focus. My car died after stopping it for about 5 minutes. Tried jumping it twiceonce with old cords, and again with new ones. Oh andI reversed the polarity by accident the 2nd time.I never noticed any signs of my battery dying before this occurrence. I replaced my battery myself and now my radio will not turn on. No other problems, all other lights, brake lights, blinkers, wipers, and auto locks still work. What could have happened? I checked all the fuses, and could see that they were still intactdo I need a new radio/cd player?HELP!~music-less in tx :[
You may have caused a dead short in your cars system.Will your car start or does it just emit a clicking noise like the battery is dead?If so your starter may have gone out.This can happen without any warning.If you can, get a friend to get under your car and Gently tap the starter while you turn the key.It may start or act like it wants to.This same thing happened to me and that's what my mechanic friend told me to try,and I ended up replacing my starter.Or if you can get it to Auto-Zone and they will do a FREE diagnostic check and tell you what the problem is .Reversing the polarity probably didn't help.but try this and good luck.Let me know if this helped.
Q:helloI was installing a GPS tracker in ford Mondeo so i needed 12+ volt from the car. and I take one from driver side under the plastic that' need to the driver knee. there I found many wires and I found red wire I took the 12v+ from it. but by mistaken that wire touched the car ground and now there's no electricity on it I've checked all fuses under the glove box and all fuses near to the engine and non of them was burned out please what should i do
There must be a blown fuse. The purpose of a fuse is to break the connection if the circuit becomes overloaded, this prevents electrical fires, and other dangerous situations. Blown fuses are not obvious if you just glance at the fuse box, you need to remove them in order to see the conductor. I would look at a wiring diagram, find the components on the diagram that are not working, and trace them back to the fuse number and location. This problem can only be a blown fuse or fuseable link.
Q:I have a 24vac about 5 amp transformer that will have leads coming out of it for testing electric circuits. I need to know if there is a component to help me out. If the leads were to touch together it would short out frying my transformer. I need a device that will upon the leads touching will not allow the current to back into the transformer causing a short. I know a fuse accomplishes this but I don't want to keep buying/replacing fuses since they will touch a lot! I'm going to use a resettable circuit breaker for know till I see if there is a better alternative. Thanks!
You want an incandescent light bulb. Two 12V 60W car headlamps in series will do. If there is a short as such on the leads, the lamps will take the current and convert it to light and heat. The light bulbs will seem like a short circuit or low vaue resistor to low current loads. I have made myself such an arrangement to test 120V devices for dead shorts, which is a dual receptacle box, with the receptacles in series. I plug the device under test in one receptacle, a dual socket lamp in the other, fitted with a 60W and 40W incandescent bulb. I can select 40, 60, or 100W series load with that.
Q:I accidentally switched-on my computer from US that is set to 115 Volts. Power at home is 220 Volts. What could be the components that were damaged inside the power supply?
The most likely failure point would be the main rectifier diodes, to fail short which should have popped an internal fuse. If the supply was not fused, then the diodes would eventually smoke and fail open saving what might be left of the supply. Also, with no fuse, the shorted diodes would have put AC directly on the main reservoir capacitor and they would be smoked as well. I am assuming it did not remain plugged in this way for more than a few seconds. Continued operation whould have overloaded the regulator circuit eventually smoking it as well. The computers battery would act as a buffer to this catastrophy, so it should have saved the computer chassis itself from damage. Getting a replacement supply will be much smarter than trying to diagnose and repair one that has smoked. Most modern supplies do not have a voltage switch, they are universal in 100-240 volts 50/60 cycle without adjustment.
Q:checked all wires under hood and car, couldn't find any shorts. car will start and run but after awhile it will shut off or when it's put into gear.
if it shuts off when you put it in gear you need to check the mounts real good in it,it may have a broken engine mount,and that may be allowing it to break ground ,this will cause it to stall out,and blow a fuse,because when you loose the ground wire,you loose power to some of the inside components,such as the computer,and this will make them blow fuses sometimes,its worth a try,good luck with it.
Q:As stated, I'm going to add an extra CL in my fuse box for an accessory. Would it hurt anything to just add it to the lower gold bolt that already has a ground attached? I'd consider the empty one but I can't get my hand behind it and don't want to not be able to tighten in back up. Thanks for any advice, sorry for the novice question, I'm fairly new to working in my car.
Be careful, a cigarette lighter is a very high amperage draw device. The single existing fuse is only designed for one lighter, so you should consider running a dedicated line from the battery, fuse protected, to your new lighter. However, if you only plan on using the lighter socket for small current draw purposes, like a cell phone charger, then you could be okay tapping into an existing line. As for ground, any existing ground should be okay, as well as adding a new ground to a metal frame or body component.
Q:Can someone help me out here. Please in layman's terms, to much detail is not necessary.
The hyphae is the thread-like filaments that form the structure of fungi. A mass of hyphae is called the mycelium. Upon the hyphae, spore bodies form to produce new fungal colonies. When the proper conditions occur, the hyphae of mating types fuse and form fruiting bodies such as mushrooms in which the sexually produced spores form and are released. The hyphae produces enzymes that digest the food they grow upon. These enzymes are called exoenzymes.
Q:I'd like to be able to generate significant voltages of DC for experimentation purposes, but so far am having difficulty in creating/sustaining such high voltages. My hope is that the answer may lie in building a voltage multiplier, but I know very little about such technology. It seems I could potentially build one if I knew what components to get and how to configure them. Any help would be appreciated.
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Q:Alright, so my mom called me up today crying saying her car wasn't working so i asked what the problem was, and she said a bunch of stuff that wasnt working on it all of a sudden today, so i told her, i'd be right over and take a look at it anyways the ABS light is on in the dash, the climate control isnt turning on, or lighting up, the rear window defroster isnt working, the back up lights dont work, or the running lights, so i was like ok easy fix, looked it up in the manual and all that stuff is on fuse 6i looked at the fuse, it didnt look busted, but i put in a new 10amp fuse just incase still didnt work tryed another new fuse, and it still doesnt work, so then i checked all the fuses, and they all look good! what else could it be!?!?! any help would be greatly appreachated!
These cars were bad about ignition switches burning out from too much amp draw from the blower motor. Also, it has 2 fuse holders. One for the components, and one which is in between the battery and the fuse box that use to be called 'fuse links' and are now replaceable fuses or master fuses. All that you mentioned that doesn't work goes through the ignition switch except running lights.
Q:2.8 manual trans blows ecm b fuse in the under dash fuse box. Changed relays(2), fuel pump and ecm. It might be the fuel pump primer but I don't know where it is located.When I bypass the relay the fuel pump runs but when I try to start the engine while it's bypassed the bypass wire from the positive battery post gets red hot. The engine used to start while wired in this fashion when the fuse would fail. Now the fuse fails all the time.
You have a direct short in the ECM B circuit. When you bypass the fuse you destroy the harness, fuses are to protect the harness and the components they are connected to. They protect the ECM. The B circuit usually is the power circuit for the fuel pump, through the relay. Check the harness for continuity from the relay connector to ground from the fuel pump power supply wire I think it's tan/wht. If there is you have a short and you will need to pinpoint where. but you have probably already melted the harness together. Good luck. It might have been cheaper to hire a professional mechanic shop.

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