• BSMJ series self-healing LV Shunt capacitors System 1
BSMJ series self-healing LV Shunt capacitors

BSMJ series self-healing LV Shunt capacitors

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Brief

It is used in an AC power system with rated voltage less than 1.2kV to increase power factor to reduce reative loss and to improve voltage quality.


Main Features

a. Novel in structure,light in weight
It is produced with Zinc-and-aluminum metallized polypropylene film as the medium so the dimension and the weight is respectively only the 1/4 and 1/5 of the old.
b. Low loss
Because the actual value is less then 0.12%,energy loss of the capacitor itself is few,the raised temperature is low,operation life is long and it has outstanding saving energy result.
c. Good self-healing performance
Medium partial impulse caused by the over voltage can healed by itself to operate as before.
d. Safety
It is very reliable because the discharge and insurance devies are installed in it.
e. No omitted oil
Its main immersed agent is the micro-crystal wax,which is solid at normal temperature,its drop-pot and dissoluble-pot are both above 70℃ and it won'omit operating,so it won't pollute the surroundings.


Mode&Implication
Main Technical Parameter

a、Usage environment:surrounding temperaturt is -25℃~+50℃the humidity is less than 85% the altitude is below 2000m.
b、Rated voltage:0.23~1.2kV,AC.
c、Rated capacity:1~60kvar.
d、Capacity deviation:0~+10%.
e、Tangent of the dielectric loss angle:In the power frequency rated voltage,20℃is less than 0.2%.
f、Withstand voltage between the poles:the rated voltage is 5s if the voltage between the poles is 2.15.
g、Maximum permitted over-voltage:it is 1.10 as the rated voltage.
h、Permitted over-current:it is 1.30 as the rated current.
i、Automatically discharge:It is less than 50V in 3min after power broke down when the Dc is ?Un as the before increased by the capacitors.
j、It conforms to the standards GB12747-1991 and IEC60831-1996.


Table of The Main Specification And the Overall Dimension

The overall dimension of the single-phase products and the products installed impedance coil is equal to the three-phase ones.Order by the contract if the other specification is needed.

Note: the above overall size is for your reference only, we accept special orders of other specifications, and the sizes are subject to change in improved design.


The installation and size of shape


Q: i recently opend up my ps2 and took the power board off of the console and wired in an led light through the 4 prongs that go to the power board, i was super carefull with everything and i put it together, it worked and the led light was too weak for i and i took it off, put it back together and it worked fine again, so i left it sitting for all night and i noticed i kept hearing a loud ringing noise like an old tv noise, so i went over to my ps2 because i noticed the red standby light was off and i thought i left the switch off in the back, so i switched it back and fourth and nothing happend, so i was like aww crap so now im in this situation to where when i turn the back switch on it just rings loud and nothing happens, what could be the problem?
You'd need to look at a schematic and say exactly where these prongs were, where they are on the power board. It could be a lot of different things. Adding that LED light to those prongs may have cause a power spike or fluctuation on part of the board and blown a fuse or damaged a component. It may have connected circuits that were never meant to be connected, delivering too much power to something. Sure the light worked, but electricity will flow through any closed circuit, that doesn't mean it's meant to be closed. Those power boards are designed to take 120V and chop it up into different-sized tiny little bits to be passed of to the primary board and its sensitive circuits. They are complicated, and you shouldn't mess with them unless you have a schematic and know what you're doing. Even dropping a paper clip or screw on it can accidentally cause an overflow and destroy some circuits. It's why solder is made with lead, it prevents flakes of tin from shedding off and ruining the circuits. Since it is ringing, it sounds like you have mostly wiped out your power board's relays. Not much you can do about that except replace them. And I wouldn't do that for a good long while if I were you, until the capacitor cools back down again. A TV technician would be able to open it up, find the high-voltage circuits and discharge them. I'm guessing you're not a TV technician.
Q: I have a video mixer here which the power plug says 12v 300mA and i have a power supply which is 12v 1700mA. Will i be able to use this power supply or will it blow the video mixer up? Thanks
The current is fine. 1700 mA 300 mA. I assume it is a wall wart you are using, and you want to use a wall wart that didn't come with the product. Check another two things: 1) AC or DC output? If the video mixer says DC you have to provide that. 2) Plug polarity. Some plug jacks are +ve on the inside, others on the outside. Make sure you have it right. It *probably* won't kill the mixer to flip the polarity, but it may not work.
Q: I have this hot tub that froze and busted a lot of the lines going to the jets. I replaced all these and turned the power back on with one of the gates still in the closed position. Not usre if I damaged the pump or what but I can't get it to do anything but blow fuses. The readout says it's overheating. I took the motor cover off and spinned the porpelers and they turned good. Also the heat senor has melted out of the inline water heater and was wondering if these are replaceable. THis unit has two pumps and it is a fourwinds model 700 maverickThanks for any help
get two girls, that should unfreeze the tub or whatever i stopped reading after the first 5 words
Q: I have a 1994 Suzuki Sidekick JX 4x4. Everytime you try to start the car, upon turning the key it will not start. When you check the fuse panel, the fuse marked 15A Fl is always blown, no matter how many times you replace it. I have tried looking online for answers, but haven't found any satisfying. Any idea what could be going on? We have replaced the fuel pump relay twice, one of which fixed the problem, but this last time it hasn't helped. Any expertise help would be greatly appreciated!
The old wiring has a short. It needs a pro to find it It might need a new section of wiring harness.
Q: GE microwave oven blows its main time delay inline fuse everytime i put new one in
When does the fuse blow? A soon as you plug it in to the wall outlet, or when you press the Start button, or when you open the door, or ? If as soon as you plug it in or when you open the door, it's probably one of the door interlock switches. There are at least two door interlock switches (often three), one of which is called the interlock monitor that shorts out the main lines and blows the fuse in the event the other door interlock switch fails in the closed state. You would need to find the faulty switch and replace it, usually not a difficult task, but a task only for those who know basic electrical circuitry troubleshooting and repair. If the fuse blows upon pressing the Start button, the fault is one of the HV components (magnetron, transformer, capacitor, diode) causing a short circuit. It could be any one of them, and narrowing it down to the actual fault also requires some basic knowledge and experience with HV circuits, as well as the proper test equipment. In any case, if you've never done this sort of thing before, best to either have the appliance serviced by a professional or round-file it and buy a new one.
Q: I'd like to be able to generate significant voltages of DC for experimentation purposes, but so far am having difficulty in creating/sustaining such high voltages. My hope is that the answer may lie in building a voltage multiplier, but I know very little about such technology. It seems I could potentially build one if I knew what components to get and how to configure them. Any help would be appreciated.
The okorder
Q: connectors on the backglass. no damage to the defroster grid. is there an inline fuse in the lift gate that i might have missed, or could the switch be bad and still light up?
Tony. You checked the connections properly. One is power, the other is ground at the connectors. Did you look at the wiring harness where it goes through to the tailgate? This is a common place for wires to break from repeated opening/closing of the gate. The switches are usually reliable. Any fuses for the circuit should be either under hood or dash. Your owners manual should show you where. If you have anymore questions or need advise give me an e-mail. UPDATEThere is a technical service bulletin regarding this problem. It involves the diagnosis of the grid. It has a different grid power distribution. Bulletin # 04-08-48-001B
Q: I am unable to locate the fuse that feeds the components mounted on the rear hatch (including the wiper, door lock, and keyless entry receiver). The service manual has no designated fuse. I would appreciate any help in solving this issue. Thanks.
in side of fuse cover should show full lay out of same look on inside of cover plate
Q: I'm getting a MA audio hk898 ampit says 1200 RMS bridged at 2 ohms, but its got 2 40 amp fuses, what can those fuses actually hold when it comes to watts, just curious.
If your battery voltage is 14.4 then it should handle 1152 Watts. So therefore either your amp has slow-blow fuses or your amp doesn't put out 1200 Watts RMS.
Q: I have a Kenmore 110.64672400 and my husband thought it would be easy to disconnect the buzzer. He cut the two wires to the buzzer and started the dryer. It ran - until it started tried to buzz - then it died.What did we fry? What do we now need to replace?Please help.
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