DBW/SBW series High Power Compensation Single Three Phase Voltage Stabilizer

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Principle & Characteristics

This product is designed and developed with the international advanced compensation technology.It can keep the output voltage in steady state automatically when the network voltage fluctuated or the load current varied, which can ensure the consumer run smoothly. It has the advantage of large capacity、high efficiency、no waveform distortion、simple operation and maintenance、reliable running、full- capacity output under tower input voltage if compared with other voltage stabilizer. It is provided with over-voltage、over-current、phase sequence and so on protection function.

Scope of Application

It is suitable for electric supply in small-sized plant、workshop and department in middle、large-sized mining enterprise, it can be widely used in the precision machine tool、precision instrument,test device、elevator、imported electromechanical device、production flow-line in the mining enterprise、oil field、railway、building site、school、hospital、hotel、scientific research department and so on, it is also suitable for the user in the LV electric network end with low power voltage and big wave range

Main Technical Parameter

Size & Weight(For reference only)

Q: Any help greatly appreciated. So I drive a 2005 Chrysler 300. 3.5l v6. I have strange headlight and tail light issues. Mind you there are what I believe aftermarket LED halo style headlights in the front. Tail lights are from 300c hemiFirst of all my #8 fuse [15 amp] is repeatedly blowing for no appearant reason. A Working fuse gives me the fancy blue halos, orange lamps, 3 small LED's and my normal beams. As well as proper running tail lights for the back and a responsive light switch to turn them off and on. . When the fuse blows I'm left with no lights other than my normal beams up front. No tail lights. Yet when the fuse IS blown I press the break and all my tail lights come on [all reds, and yellow blinker lights both constant. Yellow lights don't blink] and a glitchy light switch. NOW aside from all of that. My bottom left fog light does not work. The bulb looks un damaged. Any help greatly appreciated: Hi i would be surprised if anything worked the Body module that other computer which works with the engine management system is confused now.

Q: I have a 1998 Honda civic stock altenator I want do a 1200 watt amp it says 120 amps fuses and I want do 2 highs amp 1 300 watt and 1 400 watt will I be ok to hook this up: In the short term, probably. Long term - I'd be surprised if that alt lasts 6 mo. At anything over 1/2 volume that alt will basically be maxed out. Under that much stress the amount of heat produced will be extreme. Heat in alternators causes both the electrical components and the mechanical components to wear out quickly.

Q: I tried to install a new car stereo today. Like the idiot i am, I ignored everything I read about disconnecting the battery negative before I started. I assumed that removing the fuses for the radio would be fine. Anyway. I got the radio, and it was working fine for about 5 minutes. Then one of my dome lights flickered, and the radio started turning off and on again. I decided to try turning on the engine at this point to see if it just wasnt getting enough power. By the time i had gotten to the drivers side, everything was dead. The car wouldnt start, the lights dont come on. Everything is just dead. It got dark on me, so I've yet to remove the stereo, or check the inside fuse box. I'm hoping that its just a fuse, but with everything being out, and the main fuse in the motor-area fuse box intact, im losing hope that thats all thats wrong. I was thinking fusable link, or a solenoid. How did I manage to mess it up that bad? And how do I fix it? Thanks: It would help if you told us the year make and model of car.

Q: I have the right fuse the cord is ok the capacitors appear to be ok I don't see anything that stands out to let me know where the problem is. I change the fuse and as soon as I plug it in it blows.: This answer isn't going to be very helpful, but it is the best one I can give without being there in person to snoop, meter and prod things a bit. You likely have some component in the power supply section that has gone out of tolerance by shorting quietly. This occurs when a resistance drops enough to blow fuses rapidly, but the very fact that it blows fuses rapidly keeps it from ever damaging anything to the point of finding the problem with a visual inspection. My best guess from here is that this model VCR / DVD has quiescent state power so that it can be used with a remote control at all times. That leads me to believe that the problem itself would be in either the particular section of the power supply that provides this power or in the sections dealing with the remote sensor and any micro controller that interprets and activates those commands. There is one fairly simple possibility you might have overlooked. Make sure that no connectors or bare wires are against the case that you can see. Also check for minor discolorations of the boards due to heating. If you aren't a qualified tech or a talented hobbyist with tools available such as a multimeter, this will be very difficult for you to track and repair yourself I'm afraid. And, as always, it isn't safe to work around equipment you're not thoroughly familiar with, even disconnected. Best advice is take it in for repairs or replace it. Sorry I can't be of more help.

Q: I checked all fuses they are ok.: on most dodgethere is a ballast resistor. this is normally located on the firewall. This is a white ceramic retangular item with two wires plugged into it. The brain box may also be faulty. it can be located on the firewall or on the shock (strut) mount. It is also possible the pick up coil located in the distribtor is faulty. To check the ballastif this model has onesimply use an ohm meter to check if it has continuity between the two plug ins on the ballast. your brain box can normally be checked at your local parts store. There is a process to check the pickup coilyou will need an ohm meter for this too but I'm not sure what the reading should be on it.get a chiltons or comparable manual for this. Hope this helps

Q: i have checked several components and it doesn't start: Your no start condition could be any of a number of things. First, I will assume it is cranking but not starting. If you are seeing any kind of white smoke while it cranks, you are getting fuel to the cylinders. So air in the system or low fuel should not be the problem. If you are cranking and getting NO SMOKE and NO START, you probably are not getting fuel. Check your fuel filters for clogs or gel. Other things to check: 1.Check your battery connections for corrosion. Also check each battery's voltage. You should have two batteries. If even one of them is low or has a bad cell, it can cause a failure to start. This is because glow plugs (thos things that heat the cylinders so the fuel can burn) us ALOT of voltage. If they don't get the full voltage, she probably wont start. If the battteries are good, you may have a bad glow plug relay or bad glow plugs. Finally, if all this fails find a OBDII scanner and check for codes. Perhaps you'll find your answer there.

Q: any suggestion to fix them would be appreciated.: check the fuses before you do anything I might just be a fuse. Refer to your manual to see which fuses control which electrical components. If it is broken, get a new one cost like 3 bucks. If not, you probably have to have someone look at it.

Q: I have 2 12inch subs in a ported box in my trunk facing back would the bass be any better if i turned them facing front or does it matter ? The bass in the car is massive but out side not to much except you can hear the trunk rattle i want more bass to the front not the back. i want to rattle the car in front of me not the behind me .On a different matter what makes the subs hum when the amp is on and the car is running the amp kit is new the amp is a dual 600 watt 4 channel amp and it is bridged 8 gauge power and 8 gauge ground in line fuse twisted component wires(RCA Cables) and nothing touching or any open wires: NO, turning the subs around will not produce a better sound(vibration) unless the subs front wall is completely cealed off from the trunk which means you would have to have a custom box. but in most cases like yours it will actually reduce the sound. the trunk is basically a expansion area.bass extension comes from space within the trunk. the trunks surface area resonates the subs movement and redirects it into the cabinet. that's why you lose sound pressure when you open the trunk. this fundamental is quite complex actually and requires tuning of the box and subwoofer. a good way to increase sound pressure and extend the subs motion into the cabinet is by making a port into the cabinet for example letting a seat down or if you have a armrest that has a trunk opening area, that can be used as a port to allow the sub woofer to resonate the area within the cabinet but this can also allow more subwoofer distortion to be heard aswell. it requires alot a padding and dampening material to reduce the amount of sounds leakage and rattle distortion. you have an improper amp for sub woofers is probably the reason why you might not feel proper lows. the humming sound can be from a variety of reasons. but the sound itself is distortion from either improper filtering, or a lack of energy to the amp, if you have the gains set high on the amp you are over the distortion limit and are probably under powering the amp to produce a proper wattage and normal levels. OR you are getting distortion from your head unit, which is not uncommon. what type of subwoofer and amplifier do you have by the way.

Q: I have BOSS Bass1500 with 25A fuse hooked onto 8GA 1000W 40A metra kit. Annoyed with low output I bought a 2 way subwoofer crossover SOUNDSTORM SX210. SOUNDSTORM SX210 kit requires a 3A fuse from the battery to crossover.What if I run a 10GA cable to power the crossover through my amplified subwoofer?Also, run the remote wire through the amplified subwoofer to crossover?Doesn't make sense laying 2 power cables running from the battery to 2 different things and 2 separate remote wires from the head unit.What do you guys think?: For the main power you can use a distribution block that splits the power two ways. just cut the main power wire (with the battery disconnected of course!) and connect them back up again via the d block. then run your 10GA wire from the d block to your crossover. Don't forget to put fuses in between the distribution block and the components though. A 25 amp fuse for the sub and a 3 amp fuse for the crossover. For the remote wire you can simply tap into the one already running to you sub. there are connectors for this that you can buy from any electrics store. Good luck. Ben.

Q: I am replacing it in a UPS back up energy for my computer.please if you dont know dont answer, dont guess.: yes you can, 1 amp wont hurt it at all. just do it in a static free area.

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