FN12-12 Type Outdoor Medium-voltage Vacuum Circuit Breaker

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Product Description:

1. Product Description:

Circuit breaker refers to the closing, carrying and breaking under normal conditions of loop current and closing, hosted within the prescribed time and disconnect the abnormal loop current switching device. Circuit breakers are divided into high voltage circuit breakers and low voltage circuit breakers, and the high and low pressure boundary lines are relatively vague, which is generally referred to as high-voltage electrical apparatus by 3kV.

 

2. Product Characteristic:

The composite apparatus of FN12-12 and FNR12-12 is three-phase high-voltage switchgear with rated voltage 12kv, rated frequency 50Hz, applying to separate and close load current, closed-loop current, charging current of no-load transformer and cable, to close the short circuit current and assembling equip load switch of grounding switch. It can bear short circuit current. It is mainly applied as loading control and short circuit protection in downtown distribution station of three-phase rig net or terminal power supply and industrial consumer.

 

3.Specification

C65N 1P

C1A

C2A

C4A

C6A

C10A

C16A

C20A

C25A

C65N 2P

C1A

C2A

C4A

C6A

C10A

C16A

C20A

C25A

C65N 1P

D1A

D2A

D4A

D6A

D10A

D16A

D20A

D25A

C65N 2P

D1A

D2A

D4A

D6A

D10A

D16A

D20A

D25A

D stands for power, C for lighting

 

4. Reference Picture:

 

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Q:Is it possible to remove the service engine light completely, and is there a fuse that will do this?
Tamper proof by whose terms? The average guy, maybe so. The average GM tech, maybe not. Depends if the lamp is replaceable or built into the dash assembly. Replaceable, you just get down to removing the dash assembly (no fun, usually) and pull the lamp. But as you say, Why? To go to that much trouble to hide some problem would be something a typical disreputable used car lot would pull. But on the other hand, if you've had it hooked up to a diagnostic computer and nothing shows for now, who knows if it's been tampered with or just a bad lamp. The seat belt light is another issue, unrelated to the other. Could be a simple switch bad in the retractor assembly. And if you wear the seat belt anyway, you don't really need 'reminding'.
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what gauge wire and what amp are you using? you need make sure you wire isnt too big it might be giving your amp to much power
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if your battery is over 3 yrs old i would replace it anyway. pull the pos battery cable from the batt., then test between the cable and battery, you shouldnt get anything. if you do, pull the fuse/relay for your headlights and retest, if you dont get anything, you may have to try another circuit
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I have a beachcomber tub and it has System fuses if one of them are blown my panel will go deadhave you tried sundance service ?
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Either under the dash on the drivers side or out under the hood.
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I think there are two different fuse boxes in your car - The 'small' one under the dash a second one under the hood. The box under the hood has one larger fuse that feeds all of the dash board circuits. It's either on the driver's wheel well or up just behind below the battery.
Q:how many watts will 2 40 amp fuses hold?
It's kinda hard for you to know who to listen to on here. I aint gonna say any names, but some of the people that responded to this post don't seem to know what they're talking about (mercury) Anyways, a caprice or a tahoe would be fine (heavy chevy ridin') There's really no need to to get two amps unless you're using one for your mids (which I'd suggest since you're going with solo x's) Also, that capacitor would be great. With a capacitor like that, you wouldn't need a second battery at all. Whether or not the vented box is good depends on 2 things: 1) if it's made correctly 2) if that's the sound you prefer A vented box would sound better (in my opinion) in a tahoe than it would in a caprice. As far as the alternator, if you can afford it, I'd say go for it As far as the amp kit you get, it depends on what all you plan on installing. Basically, you'd need: Power wire Ground wire RCA cables Remote turn on wire Fuse and fuse holder Speaker wire and terminals for all the wire. If you're installing two amps then you'd need a distribution block One last thing, if you're going for really deep bass, then I'd suggest going for either 12's or 15's rather than 10's, but if you have the box already, I'd say go for the 10's. It would be pretty simple to swap them out later on, because all the wiring could stay the same
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Connect transformer primary to mains and secondary to bridge rectifier. Connect centre tap on transformer this will be the ground. Connect + and - terminals of rectifier to large capacitors, then via regulators to output. connect small capacitors across output terminals. 9 components. if you like put a fuse.
Q:What can i run off 12 volts?
you should be able to run anything that does not exceed the amperage rating of the fuse for the power point this is usually about 10-15 amps, depending on the vehicle and what other components this fuse controls. If we consider that wattsvoltage x current that means that you should be fine with anything that is rated at under 120-180 watts or a combination of things (using a splitter) totaling less than that. Find the fuse that controls your power power point, and look at its amperage rating. I would assume that this fuse also controls other components as well (dome lights, etc.). Multiply its amperage by twleve and that is the MAXIMUM number of watts that can be used on that circuit. Since this represents the maximum number of amps possible on the circuit (and probably would result in a blown fuse) dont pick an appliance that matches the wattage number you calculate or you will overload the circuit and blow a fuse. Other than that you can use just about anything that meets these requirements.

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