CDC3 Series AC Contactor

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Product Description:

Applicable Range

CDC3-9~110 AC contactor is designed for long-distance making and breaking in circuit, with AC50Hz (or 60Hz), rated operating voltage up to 660V. When rated operating voltage is 380V in Category AC-3,rated operating current to the power system is up to 110V .It also can be formed with thermal overload relay or electrical protection apparatus and form electromagnetic starter to protect circuit against overload.

Applicable Standards

National Standards: GB14048. 4
National Standards: IEC 60947-4-1

Normal working and installation conditions
Normal working and installation conditions

1. Altitude: no more than 2000m.
2. Ambient temperature: within -5℃~+40℃,and the average temperature no more than +35℃ in 24 hours.
3. Relative humidity no more than 50% at max. +40℃, and it may be higher at a lower temperature . The lowest average temperature no more than +25℃ in the wettest month . The maximum average relative humidity of this month doesn't exceed 90%, The change of temperature leading to dew on the surface of product must be considered.
4. Class of pollution: Class 3.
5. Vertical or horizontal installation is allowed. The inclined angle between the mounting surface and vertical surface no more than ±30°under vertical installation.
6. Installation condition: class III.

Structure features

1. It is compact and beautiful.
2. Good performance of arc extinction without flashover, CDC3-9~16 adopts automatic arc-extinguishing, but CDC3-26~110 have a “U” type arc-extinguishing slice located on the body and form enclosed arc-extinguishing chamber.
3. Perfect conductivity: contact is made of the silver base alloy materials with resistance to fusion welding and electrical friction.
4. Convenient connection for coil have two types, namely, front and front &back outlets
5. High safety: conductive parts are not exposed to the air.
6. Installation condition is class III, screw and guide rail installations.
7. More options for accessories.

Outline and Installation Dimensions

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Q:How can I get the lights on my car stereo faceplate working again?
Get a new faceplate. It has nothing to do with fuses, fuses blow and entire components stop working. LED lights last a very long time, but when they go bad they typically dim first, then quit.
Q:I've blown a fuse in my computer power supply. Help ?
Two things seem likely. 1. You've created a short circuit somewhere 2. Your mod is trying to draw more current than your power supply can provide
Q:what is wrong with my power windows?
you may need a new regulator (the motor may be bad this comes with new regulator) have some one with knowledge of automotive electrical systems confirm
Q:What is wrong with my stereo?
the speaker wires may be corroded,too long,or shorted when pos neg are inserted into speaker wire clips,the net needs to allow a refined search so one can find the device itself,maybe the patent prohibits repair people from showing pics schematics,can you post/upload a pic of the thing? one of front,rear,speakers,and aux components?
Q:Why isnt the radio turning on?
Check fuse #18 (20amp, yellow) in the Power Distribution Center box under the hood. This fuse has a plastic pull-tab on it. It's used to control Ignition-Off Draw IOD. The fuse is pushed in when you take delivery of the vehicle. The owners' manual explains that it's used to keep the battery from draining during extended storage. If it's blown, you will need to determine what caused it to blow. This 20a fuse won't blow unless you've added a load to the circuit or there is a component failure. It doesn't take much to blow the fuse, the addition of a stereo or alarm, or even the power window modification, if you wired it into that circuit. If you haven't added an additional load, and the vehicle self-tests check out OK, dealer service will need to diagnose the problem.Also check the fuses in the fuse box by the driver's left knee inside the car and a 40 amp fuse up in the power distribution box under the hood.
Q:Can you introduce me some protection circuits in solar array ?
Protection on my system consists of switches and fuses, and a continuous ground connection between each module and an earth ground. One fused switch isolates the modules from the rest of the system. Another isolates the system from the public utility, A fuse protects the AC circuit feeding the control unit. Another protects internal components. And,of course, there is the building service entrance switch and fuses.
Q:Why does the air conditioner keep blowing the fuse?
How old is your house FUSES! Most have breakers. Check if you have put something else on the same circuit, an a/c unit will take almost 15amps and any extra will blow the fuse. You could use a 20amp fuse but no higher. or use a 15amp slow blow fuse. They will take over 15amps for a short time.
Q:can u hurt a e.c.m. on a car using a test light checking fusses or 4 probing wires?
Don't stick wires
Q:2000 Chevy S10?
Well abs is air brake system. When you brake with abs, your brakes grab and then slip off then grab.until you stop. When the abs light is on, that means thatyour abs is disengaged meaning that you only have normal brakes. I had a 94 grand prix that the abs light would come on and off like that. One day a car pulled out in front of me when i was about 7 feet away from it. I slammed on the brakes, and being that they were abs brakes, the brakes grabbed and locked and never let off in that sort distance of 7 feet. My brakes were effectively LOCKED in that few seconds and i had no control at all and plowed into the other car. My son is a mechanic, trust me your abs light being on just means that you are operating on regular brakes which are better than abs anyway. The reason your brake pedal feels weird when that light is on is telling you your abs is screwing up.
Q:Car Wire Short Finder?
So what do you plan on doing with the short finder? Tear the wiring harness all apart so you can scan each one for a short? The way to find a short is to pull each fuse,one at a time, and have a test light hooked up to the disconnected negative battery cable and the negative battery post. When you pull the fuse that turns the test light off you've found which circuit it is on. Next you need a wiring diagram of the fuse box so that you can see which of the wires on that circuit go to which component. No matter how hard you search? The fact you are even looking for a short finder suggests you have no clue what you are doing so I would recommend hiring a real mechanic to fix your draw problem, not waste it on gimmicks.

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