CDC3　Series AC Contactor

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: -

Supply Capability:: -

Inquire Now

Chat Online

Add to My Favorites

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

You Might Also Like

Electro Ceramics Made of Steatite

Ceramic Bobbin Heater with Coil

High-voltage Current Limit Fuse for Engine Protection

CDW7 Series Air Circuit Breakers

CDB5 Series Modular Lsolating Switch

DDS607 Series Single-phase Electronic Ammeter

DD862 type single-phase meters

TBBW 、TBBW2 serial Intelligent low voltage reactive small compensation device

Applicable Range

CDC3-9～110 AC contactor is designed for long-distance making and breaking in circuit, with AC50Hz (or 60Hz), rated operating voltage up to 660V. When rated operating voltage is 380V in Category AC-3,rated operating current to the power system is up to 110V .It also can be formed with thermal overload relay or electrical protection apparatus and form electromagnetic starter to protect circuit against overload.

Applicable Standards

National Standards: GB14048. 4
National Standards: IEC 60947-4-1

Normal working and installation conditions

1. Altitude: no more than 2000m.
2. Ambient temperature: within -5℃～+40℃,and the average temperature no more than +35℃ in 24 hours.
3. Relative humidity no more than 50% at max. +40℃, and it may be higher at a lower temperature . The lowest average temperature no more than +25℃ in the wettest month . The maximum average relative humidity of this month doesn't exceed 90%, The change of temperature leading to dew on the surface of product must be considered.
4. Class of pollution: Class 3.
5. Vertical or horizontal installation is allowed. The inclined angle between the mounting surface and vertical surface no more than ±30°under vertical installation.
6. Installation condition: class III.

Structure features

1. It is compact and beautiful.
2. Good performance of arc extinction without flashover, CDC3-9～16 adopts automatic arc-extinguishing, but CDC3-26～110 have a “U” type arc-extinguishing slice located on the body and form enclosed arc-extinguishing chamber.
3. Perfect conductivity: contact is made of the silver base alloy materials with resistance to fusion welding and electrical friction.
4. Convenient connection for coil have two types, namely, front and front &back outlets
5. High safety: conductive parts are not exposed to the air.
6. Installation condition is class III, screw and guide rail installations.
7. More options for accessories.

Outline and Installation Dimensions

Q:I have a pontiac Grand Prix GTP, its 2000 the under hood is clean but not clean enouch, Should i just go to a car wash and use pressure water on the engine components? how does one clean these wiers and stuff the dust seems to be every where, are there any pros who do it for you? is yes how much taht cost?Pls helpThank you: You can use the high pressure spray as others say, but be careful around electrical connectors. That pressure is high enough to blast right through the small rubber seals on them, trapping the water inside. Even if it doesn't cause an immediate problem, it can corrode connections and wire over time. Use one of the degreasers, work it in with a parts cleaning brush where you can, and carefully rinse. Don't hold the wand too close to help prevent above listed problems. If possible, I prefer to do mine at home. I'll usually start the engine and let it warm for a few minutes, then shut it off and let the exhaust cool down for about 10 minutes. I've seen manifolds crack from being hit with large amounts of cold water when they're really hot. The oxygen sensor probably wouldn't appreciate it either. Once the exhaust has cooled slightly, I spray the degreaser anywhere it's needed and work it in with a parts cleaning brush. Before it can dry, get rinsing and keep the brush handy - you might need it to get rid of stubborn bits. I also avoid the fuse box area, and put a plastic bag over the alternator to prevent damage. You MAY be able to get away without these precautions, but why risk it for the sake of a few minutes? As someone else mentioned, be ready to dry things up thoroughly, or it will look very spotted. After that, I would take it for a drive for at least 15 minutes to help thoroughly dry things out. You can use paper towels, but if you've got some old bath towels around, they work great. Use two - one for the main initial drying, and the other for the small details. Pros will likely have nice looking results, but probably won't take the time to care much about your electrical system.

Q:All the relays are replaced and all the fuses have been tested. The boo switch has also been replaced.where the hell do I begin?: Your brake lights not working is the reason it won't come out of park. Some of the newer vehicles have more than one fuse box. Mine has one under the back seat and one under the hood. The owners manual is the first place to start. Make sure ALL the fuses are good. You'll need a test light, check for power at your brake light switch, located on the brake pedal under the dash. Then check to see if you have power at the other end of the switch when the pedal is depressed. A lot of times, it is this switch that goes bad or just gets knocked around. If you have power on both sides of this switch, then you move on to the bitsy solenoid. I'd need more information to tell you where it is on your van, but try checking the brake light switch first. Good luck!

Q:Any help greatly appreciated. So I drive a 2005 Chrysler 300. 3.5l v6. I have strange headlight and tail light issues. Mind you there are what I believe aftermarket LED halo style headlights in the front. Tail lights are from 300c hemiFirst of all my #8 fuse [15 amp] is repeatedly blowing for no appearant reason. A Working fuse gives me the fancy blue halos, orange lamps, 3 small LED's and my normal beams. As well as proper running tail lights for the back and a responsive light switch to turn them off and on. . When the fuse blows I'm left with no lights other than my normal beams up front. No tail lights. Yet when the fuse IS blown I press the break and all my tail lights come on [all reds, and yellow blinker lights both constant. Yellow lights don't blink] and a glitchy light switch. NOW aside from all of that. My bottom left fog light does not work. The bulb looks un damaged. Any help greatly appreciated: The fuse protects an individual circuit. The lights which work when the fuse is blown is on another fuse circuit. They could not work if they were on the same circuit as the #8 fuse. It sounds like you may have too many lights on the #8 circuit. If the lighting load is greater than 15 amps it will blow the fuse when you turn on enough lights to exceed the 15 amps. Disconnect a few of the lights to bring the load below the 15 amp limit, and see if it resolves the fuse problem. You could increase the fuse size to 20 amps, but this is not usually advisable as the fuse is sized to protect the circuit components. If its not a result of having too much lighting on the circuit, then I would look for a bare wire which may be contacting the car chassis. The battery is grounded to the car frame, so any power source which touches the chassis will result in a dead ground, which will cause the fuse to blow. I would suggest getting a multimeter to check to see if you are getting power to the left fog light. If you are getting power, then the problem is with the bulb or light fixture. If you are not getting power, then I'd look for a blown fuse or faulty switch.

Q:I own a 21.5' Spectrum sail boat I: The best source (I know) for boat how-to's is Bluewater books, in FL. They have an excellent well informed staff and take the time to help no matter how big or small your potential purchase. Nigel Calder has a cpl. very useful books.

Q:I put an aftermarket radio in a 2002 pt cruiser and at first all was good until I noticed a fuzzy ness to the radio stations so I messed with the antenna cord and all of a sudden the radio wouldnt power on at all. The fuses seem to be all good. All lights on dashboard work. It also says no fuse on the dash. Everything works but the radio and I think the power locks.: Check fuse #18 (20amp, yellow) in the Power Distribution Center box under the hood. This fuse has a plastic pull-tab on it. It's used to control Ignition-Off Draw IOD. The fuse is pushed in when you take delivery of the vehicle. The owners' manual explains that it's used to keep the battery from draining during extended storage. If it's blown, you will need to determine what caused it to blow. This 20a fuse won't blow unless you've added a load to the circuit or there is a component failure. It doesn't take much to blow the fuse, the addition of a stereo or alarm, or even the power window modification, if you wired it into that circuit. If you haven't added an additional load, and the vehicle self-tests check out OK, dealer service will need to diagnose the problem.Also check the fuses in the fuse box by the driver's left knee inside the car and a 40 amp fuse up in the power distribution box under the hood.

Q:i was taking off my car battery and when i touched the screw with the pilers, sparks flew and all the electricity in the car is not working now! what did i do?: You have popped some fuses, or perhaps burned up some components, like voltage regulator or relays, or worse, burned some wires. You have generated some business with a car repair shop.

Q:1998 Mazda pick up B4000 power windows and wipers only work sometimes, fuses are ok what else could the problem be?? Will work fine for a while and then go dead and after a while will start working again?? Thanks for any response to this problem.: Loose ground or connection, Corroded connections etc. Check the wiring to and from the components

Q:At the mercedes made in 1983, 300sd, which fuse is for the clock?Which numbers are on the fuse itself, or which position is the fuse among the other fuses in the row?: Simply look at the fuse box and it will tell you what fuse and the power of the fuse to use.

Q:All other components of the car, lights, ac, signals, all work. It is just the fuse that keeps blowing. I replace it, and when I try to start the car, it blows.: starter relay is shorted.

Q:I have a 1989 5.0 l camaro that wont start. Ive replaced the starter battery and nothing. Ive also tried jumpstarting the car and still nothing. When i turn ob the ignition switch nothing happens. no sound or click. When i turn the switch on all other components start but the car just wont turn over. Its missing the crank fuse might it have to do something with it? Really need some help pls.: If it's missing a crank fuse, it won't start.

1. Manufacturer Overview
Location
Year Established
Annual Output Value
Main Markets
Company Certifications

2. Manufacturer Certificates
a) Certification Name
Range
Reference
Validity Period

3. Manufacturer Capability
a)Trade Capacity
Nearest Port
Export Percentage
No.of Employees in Trade Department
Language Spoken:
b)Factory Information
Factory Size:
No. of Production Lines
Contract Manufacturing
Product Price Range