High Thermal Insulation

Hot Products

Aluminum Film Lined Fiberglass Plain Fabric

Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation FBM102

Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation FBBF1001

aluminum foil with LDPE film heat sealing for bubble foil facing production

Double Side Aluminium foil laminated to fiberglass cloth

Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation FBF101

Double side Aluminium foil laminated to fiberglass cloth

heat insulation material for building

aluminum foil with LDPE for bubble foil facing production

Double Side Aluminium foil Scrim Kraft Lamination Sheet

FAQ

Rather than waste that heat on sunny days during the heating season, can it be used to help heat the home? Otherwise it would just passively be vented out. Has anyone done this? Is it a good idea or not?

that is being done now and is called solar heat where dark panels are installed on a roof and the collected heat is drawn into the home via a liquid medium. The alternative of which you speak: between the insullation and roof ,,is just not practical to build. nor would it provide a greater heat than the aforementioned.

weather stripping/ foam strip?

Those foam strips they sell you to go under the ridge caps will eventually dry out, blow out, and be hanging all over the place. Caulking won't fill a 5/8's gap to keep the wind/rain out, and tar has no place whatsoever on a metal roof, you'll get it all over everything, and either one will look like ****. The best ridge cap has to be custom made and cut to fit. I use a 12" wide X 10' strip, bent in half to pitch, and then turn down 90 degrees on the edges, whatever the rib height is, usually 5/8". Hold the ridge cap in place on the ridge and mark where the ribs are, then notch out for the ribs so that the cap sits flush over the ribs and down on the flats, punch holes and screw down thru the tops of the ribs. It's a little time consuming but it makes for a good looking finished product that won't wear out.

attic insulation

Blow in insulation is so easy and cost effective, do it yourself. Machines can be rented at Lowes, HD, etc where you buy the material.

I am building a porch roof over an existing patio. The rafters are fabricated I-beams. I plan on putting aluminum soffit under the I-beams. On top of the roof I would like to put down a metal roof. I already put down 3/4" OSB and a rain/ice barrier. Do I need insulation and/or ventilation on top of the rain and ice barrier, or can I get away without it?

Its a outside patio, are you going to enclose it for living space? If not don't bother to insulate and for ventilation there is soffit that comes with vent holes in it. Add; no it will not cause a moisture problem, i had a patio with a open bottom metal roof and had no problems and i live in Florida.

Hi, my building is hot in temperature in summers, so I am finding ways to tackle the problem by placing some heat insulating materials against the sunlight on the roof of my building. I have found several possible solutions, but none of them close to perfect. 1. grass layer: hard to maintain2. heat-insulating brick: might be too heavy to carry them to the roof3. heat-insulating coating: would it be damaged if we step on them? Are there things like heat-insulating carpets that would be convenient to instal?

Closed cell spray foam applied to the inside of your roof sheathing will work just fine. It needs to be installed by a specialty contractor. Good Luck

I am really confused about this science stuff! Sustainability is terrible xP

All versions of insulation are largely air that is kept from moving - air is a good insulator if convection - movement of heated or cooled air due to changes of density - is prevented. This assumes that a vapor barrier and caulking prevent actual air movement through the wall when a wind is blowing. Some insulators are also poor conductors of heat so the connection between inside and outside that might occur is broken. As it happens, glass used in fiberglass and minerals used in rock wool are actually pretty good conductors of heat in solid form but as fine particles and flakes they don't conduct well from one strand/piece to the next.

do i leave air gap in attic roof for insulation?

The best way to set up an attic is to put a vapor barrier under the rafters (before nailing on the gyproc), then put the insulation (fibreglas batts) between the rafters to full depth (10 or 12 inches). Soffit vents are installed under the eaves at the sides of the roof, and gable vents are placed near the peak of the roof at the ends. This allows for airflow resulting from convection, particularly important in the summer months to remove heat buildup in the attic. If the insulation is adequate, it will not only isolate this heat buildup from the inside of the house in summer, but will prevent heat loss to the attic in winter. (The airflow in winter will be minimal, but will remove any moisture/condensation that might collect otherwise.)

I do not have extra space on the roof. Roof also tapers to drains at one end of building.

the R values, i am not sure. that white stuff is NOT Styrofoam. it is a cheap imitation. Real Styrofoam is made by DuPont, is usually a light blue, with a plastic seal coat on both sides. that thin plastic seal coat doubles the R value. what really does the insulation, is trapped air. air is actually a poor conductor of heat. the foam is actually little bubbles of air. dead air that is, air that cannot circulate and move. it works similarly to the way a down vest or coat works, it fluffs up and holds the air pockets out within a confining structure, thus retaining heat. the rigid stuff will last much longer, i can tell you that much. the white foam stuff deteriorates quickly. buy cheap, get cheap, is the general rule. you may wind up only having to do it again in a few years.