• ZLB Vertical Axial/mixed Flow Pump System 1
ZLB Vertical Axial/mixed Flow Pump

ZLB Vertical Axial/mixed Flow Pump

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Summary

Z(H)LB vertical axial-(mixed)-flow pump  is a  new general-eration product successfully developed by this Company by means of introducing the advanced foreign and domestic  know-how and meticulous designing on the basis of the  requirements from users and the conditions of use. This series product uses the latest excellent hydraulic model, wide range of high efficacy,  stable performance and good vapor erosion resistance; the impeller is precisely cast with a wax mould, a smooth and unimpeded surfac e, identical accuracy of the cast dimension to that in design, greatly reduced hydraulic friction loss and shocking loss, a better balance of impeller, a higher  efficiency than that of the common impellers by 3-5%.
Flow:800~200000m /h
Head:1~30.6m
Power:18.5~7000kW
Voltage: 355kW 6kV 10kV
Frequency:50Hz

Extensively used for hydraulic projects,  farm-land  irrigation, industrial water transportation, water supply and drainage of cities and water allocation engineering.


Suitable for pumping pure water or other liquids of the phy-sical chemical natures similar to those of pure water.
      Medium temperature: <50
      Medium density: <1.05 x 10 kg/m
      PH value of medium:between 5~11


ZLB(Q),HLB(Q) series products are all  of  a  vertical  structure and fitted with a vertical motor, With the impeller there are fixed, semi-adjustable and fully-adjustable type. The fixed type means
both impeller  and hub are cast  integrally and the impeller angle is unadjustable; the  semi-adjustable type means the impeller can be turned  to the desired  angle by loosening the fixing screw on it in case the working conditions need to be changed, then fix  all the impellers again; Z(H)LQ is the  fully-adjustable type, that means the impeller angle can be adjusted through a mechanical or hydraulic adjustor with or without stopping.
      Vertical axial-(mixed)-flow pump consists of the pump casing and the actuating part.  The pump casing generally includes water inlet pipe, impeller, guide vane,  pump  shaft,  elbow, middle pipe, sealing unit and clutch.  For both middle and small  pumps,  a water inlet horn is used as the water inlet pipe while, for the large one,  a toggle or bell water inlet passage is used,  poured with concrete and fitted with imported basic parts. The adjustable impelle r is formed with blade(stainless steel or copper alloy,  in general), hub, water guide cone. For the middle and small pumps, both impeller and pump shaft  are connected with  flat  pin and nut whi le, for the large and fully adjustable ones, a flange is used to connect both hub and main shaft. The pump s  guide bearing is a  rubber  one and can be lubricated with going-through water or additional pure water. When lubricated with the going-through water,  it has to be done to supply water for the rubber bearing on the upper side via a water-led pipe and do not  stop until  water comes out of
the pump normally.
      Both middle and small pumps  are directly actuated by a  vertical  motor, the motor is mounted on the motor seat and connected wi th the actuating shaft  via an elastic cluth. Inside of the motor seat there are radial and thrust bearings, lubricated with engine oil or grease; for the one of a bigger power there is a water cooling mezzanine. Large pump is fitted with a large vertical motor, directly mounted on the motor s   basic  beam, and both motor shaft flange and pump shaft flange (hinged hole)  are  linked with bolt.  The axial  force of the pump is borne by the thrust bearing of the  large vertical  motor.
The pump moves clockwise viewing from the motor

Q:What do I get to bring a portAble water conection? Like as in bring a hose with you I gess? It's confusing how I described it but I just wanna use a garden hose so I can wash cars from my truck. Sorry it's hard to describe
A portable water pump. They come in a variety of sizes depending on your needs. A friend of mine runs a window cleaning service from the back of his truck. I don't know what size pump he has but I do know he also has a permanent water tank fitted as well as all the other fittings accoutrements for the job.
Q:I have a 1992 Pontiac Sunbird LE. It has 4 cyl. and it has 98,000+ miles on it. I took it in to get the oil changed and they inspected the car for a noise it was making. Found out the water pump was gone and the timing belt was worn. Need replacement on both. They quoted me 670.00 for the repair! STEEP! The part should cost about 20.00 max. How do I replace the water pump myself? And the timing belt? Do I need special tools? If I can't do it pretty easily myself, how much should I pay for the repair? I'm not made of money, but I need my car to run to get me to work everyday! I can't afford much, so anything around 200-300 is probably the most I can spend on the repair. What should I do?
The best thing you could do is maybe run to a library and they might have a Chiltons or Haynes repair manual you can make some copies of, check it out and decide for yourself, but a timing belt is a pretty involved process, not so much for a water pump.
Q:I have a 1969 Chrysler with a new 3 core radiator. It still has the stock water pump and I am wondering if a high volume pump would make it run cooler at higher speeds. It runs hotter when you get off the freeway. I have flushed the system and installed a new thermostat. I also replaced the fan clutch. I am at a loss of why it still runs warmer than the 180* thermostat.
IT is normal for the engne to WANDER AROUND the 180 degree temp! if the engine does NOT BOIL OVER, then things are FINE! COOLANT boils as you know at about 212 degrees, and it may take the COOLING FAN longer to TURN ON! BASICALLY&lt; if the engine does NOT BOIL OVER&lt; then everything is JUST OKAY! USUALLY chrylsers run on the COOL side GOOD LUCK!!
Q:I have a 1990 GMC K1500 Sierra and about 1 week ago I went to check the anti-freeze level. I noticed it was a tiny bit down. So I look down at the lower radiator hose and it had a slow drip. So the next day I changed the anti-freeze, New thermostat, and a New lower radiator hose. So I thought it was fine but yesterday I went to go check the anti-freeze and the level was down. I look at the lower radiator hose and it has a slow drip again. The hose I replace was Brand New. Could this be a water pump? I did notice a tiny bit of anti-freeze on the water pump. Or what could this be or do I have to change the hose again?
You should have bought the BMW M3!!!! Which engine is in your Sierra?? You are probably right about the water pump. Be aware that many GM engines (V-6's) have intake manifold and IM leaks that require attention. Apparently, there is a bad chemical reaction between the Dex-cool coolant, and the nylon and rubber compounds in the Intake system. This would account for coolant loss. ADVICE: fix the problem, and then switch to Mercedes Benz coolant, to prevent the return of EITHER issue. Good Luck!!
Q:i a wayne above ground pump i need to know how to run all my water lines
that's conceivable which you have a small tare in the backside of the pool making it leak below the pool you could flow to a pool place and purchase a pool patch it like a huge sparkling bandage it rather is made to repair leaks in swimming pools
Q:I have a 2000 dodge 1500 the water pump is leaking and the belt is real squeaky. Are these related?
yes they are related the belt squeaking means its probably slipping or coolant from the leaking pump is getting on the belt so fix the pump and go ahead and change the belt since it will be off anyway
Q:Could this be a result of a bad water pump.
a water pump would foul your plugs, you also would find bubbles in the radiator from the compression I have even smelled exhaust fumes in some cases there. additionally you would find the radiator very low very fast. its the condensation from the engine starting up and the cat not warmed up yet (cat is catalytic converter.) Relax
Q:94 f150,302. my pump is still leaking after doin the job twice. its a new pump, the first time i used the red silicone between pump and plate,both sides of gasket,and the housing on the block. leaked. then did it again with high tack gasket cement and still leaks. i cleaned all metal both times with brake clean before installing. same with thermostat housing,small leak. ive done 100s of pumps over the years,no problems, so please no rude remarks on mechanical ability. what could it be? it leaks up front of the motor above the crossmember where ya cant actually see the leak,its not a freeze plug. bolts are torqued. any ideas ? thanks
problematic point. lookup on to a search engine. that will can assist!
Q:A Pump is direct driven by a 25 HP 900 rpm electric motor at rated load. In order to to double the quanitity of water delivered, it would be necessary to substitute a motor rated at____HP at____rpm. ans. 200 and 1800. not sure how they came up with this answer...whats the equation???
N = (95 H.C)/D Where N = rev/min D = diameter of impeller over blade tips in metres H = total head in metres C = constant. C depends on the shape of the pump and normally lies between 1.05 and 1.2 Later edit. I'm not sure if you are aware of it but each impeller has it's own characteristic performance curve.
Q:mechanic says the bearings are going on the pump, and they might as well replace the thermostat while they are there.my question is he right?do they have to remove the engine to replace either the pump or the thermostat?seems like a lot of $ for a what should be a simple job ($450).thanks for your help!
Sounds like you really either need to ask the mechanic how much would just the water pump and repair labour bill cost you with the thermostat.I really don't think the extra costs are worth it if such a high bill. One thing you can do is call around on the price of a new pump and then call or check around to find out what a mechanic will charge you just in labour fees and decide from there. Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way I doubt changing the pump would take any mechanic much longer then 45 to 90 mins to replace especially if they have the right speciality tools.So I'd also check out while comparison shopping the prices on the thermostat but if you do change it I'd install an anti-stick thermostat in it for sure.

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