Vertical Axial/Mixed Flow Propeller Pump

Vertical Axial/Mixed Flow Propeller Pump System 1

Vertical Axial/Mixed Flow Propeller Pump

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 100 unit/month

Inquire Now

Chat Online

Add to My Favorites

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

You Might Also Like

Vertical Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

WQ Series Sewage Submersible Pump

Vertical Turbine Pump

High Pressure Water Pump

Water Pump For Water Wells

Sewage water pump, diesel engine, agricutrual water pump

LQFZ Self-priming Stainless Steel Anti-corrosive Centrifugal Pump

Single-suction Horizontal Boiler Feed Water Multistage Pump

Vertical Axial/Mixed Flow Propeller Pump Introduction

QZ series axial-flow pumps are modern products successfully designed through adopting foreign modern technology. The new pumps’ capacity are 20% larger than the old ones. The efficiency is 3%-5% higher than the old ones. QZ series pump with adjustable impellers has the advantages of large capacity, broad head, high efficiency, wide application and so on. Pump station is small in scale, the construction is simple and the investment is greatly decreased. This can save 30%-40% for the building cost. It is easy to install,maintain and repair this kind of pump. Low noise,long life.

Vertical Axial/Mixed Flow Propeller Pump Parameter

QZ series axial-flow pump is applicable for water supply in cities, diversion works, sewage drainage system, sewage disposal project.

Propeller Pump Technical Data:

Flow rate: up to 20 m³/h

Head: up to 20 m

Speed: max rpm

Temperature: max °C

Casing pressure: up to MPa

Shaft seal: mechanical sealing

Material: nodular iron, stainless steel, duplex

Vertical Axial/Mixed Flow Propeller Pump Structure

NO.	Name	Material	NO.	Name	Material
1	Terminal Cover	FC250	10	Gland Cover	FC250
2	Gland Cover	FC250	11	Upper Mech Seal	Graphite/Sic
3	Leakage Alarm	Standar	12	Electrode Probe	standar
4	Bearing	Heavy duty	13	Down Mech Seal	Sic/Sic
5	Heat Protector	standar	14	Guide Vane	FC250
6	Stator	FC250	15	Propeller	SUS304
7	Rotor	SUS420	16	Casing	FC250
8	Bearing	Heavy duty	17	Suction Horn	FC250
9	Leakage Alarm	Standard

Q:I bought a salt water filter system for my inflatable pool(14' X 40deep) and filled it up with 80 pounds of salt as the directions call for. Unfortunately Intex did not design the pump correctly and it leaks.There is supposed to be some copper ion exchange with the water as it goes through the system. I returned the salt water system. Since salt is a natural bacterial fighter by itself, can I just add salt once in a while and keep the water salty and use the filter pump that came with the pool? You never see lakewater(which is a little salty) with algae in it unless it is stagnant. With a filter pump this would not happen as the water is being filtered frequently.: I don't think you or others really understand a salt water chlorination unit. The salt is added to the pool water through water circulation of the pool water the ION unit water passes past these two electrodes which in turn give off a chlorine gas which becomes the chlorine requirements for the pool On the ioniser is a dial that is set to a required setting to do with the volume of certain sized swimming pools. Even though one has this unit connected to their pool, they still have to add chlorine to their pool of the chlorine level isn't enough. This can be done in various methods, via a floating skimmer or have pellets put in hair lint pot or scattered over the pool surface, once dissolved in a bucket of warm water. Just by leaving the salt in the water as you suggest won't really do much other than help keep the water salty! This is my opinion I'll not get into a wage or wars over who is right who is wrong! Your trying to get others on your side, because you made the wrong choice purchased a salty pool chlorinator pump your dis- satisfied with your choice I am not going to agree or disagree with your statement other that to say your putting your families health at risk being a skin flint! So you think your doing the right thing, by putting your families health at risk for the sake of a few lousy dollars. Do it properly have a professional to come connect it all up for youin a proper manner!! Surely your families health means a lot more to you than risking a few lousy bucks on the proper unit! Cheers!!

Q:I have a 1997 mercedes 320e and it is leaking very bad. I need a temporary fix for the water pump, so that I can take it to the repair shop that is 10 min. away.: i don think you can do nething that will fix it temp...i would load your raidator up with coolant and put the heat on max to take the heat away from the engine put ur hazzards on and drive no more than 20mph...or have some 1 tie a thing tow rope arounf the front of the frame and have them pull you

Q:To get at the timing belt on a Toyota 3.4L V6, does the water pump first need to be removed?If so, is there a way to tell how worn a water pump with 85,000 miles is? Like a loose bearing feel, etc?: If you are replacing the timing belt it is recommended you also replace the water pump. They have similar life spans and one has to be removed to replace the other.

Q:Recently my car overheated on my way to work, and so I decided to give it some much needed TLC.I have replaced all in the last week:Spark PlugsDistributor Cap + RotorTiming BeltRelated to the cooling system:Water PumpThermostatAnd the heater still blows hot air so I believe the heater core is fine. Unfortunately even after a couple of radiator flushes the car continues to overheat. I'm considering replacing the radiator because I think it might have too much debris inside to flow properly.I used ZEREX Radiator Super Cleaner but was only able to acheive an hour and a half of driving before my car would not be able to drive anymore. (Supposed to be 3 hours, car temperature began to escalate far beyond what I'm confortable with) I also used ZEREX Radiator Super Flush to no avail.Any suggestions?Car info:Toyota Camry DX 19913S-FE Engine 2.0L I4 1998cc244,500 miles: Cooling systems are simple. There are only a few things you need to know to work a cooling system. 1 – Cooling systems consist of only a few parts. Thermostat, radiator, fan, and water pump. 2 – is it visually leaking? if yes fix leak. 3 – It is never the thermostat but it is a couple bucks so change it. 4 – is the water pump pumping. This is usually not the issue and the last thing to replace. Not to mention it is the most difficult to get to so do it last. 5 – is the fan working? 6 – Usually it is the radiator itself. The radiator is pressurized and if there is a pin hole leak your car will slowly overheat. It usually takes an hour or so of driving. Also many people like stop leak and use it as a solution when it is really a band aid. Many times people will find that they have reduced water flow because the previous owner used stop leak in the radiator. Take the radiator out and take it to a radiator shop. Have them pressure test it and inspect it. Your problem is likely in the radiator.

Q:Okay, the fan has the clutch unit on the front with the large nut attaching it to the water pump. Then 4 screws attach the pulley to the water pump as well. What's the best way to immobilize pulley/pump so I can get the fan blade clutch nut unscrewed? Can't hold onto the fan or clutch unit since it simply spins. Can't realy seem to hold onto the pulley either as it prefers to spin? Any suggested best ways?: I will suggest you ASAP Restoration for water removal Charlotte. They can handle any water damage emergency, big or small. They have expertly trained technicians on-call 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, 365 days a year.

Q:the pulley wheel fell off while i was driving and all of the pulleys turn except the two under the water pump pulley. does anyone know if that is supposed to spin by hand or will it only spin when the car is running?: Your water pump should definately be able to be spun by hand. Generally when a water pump goes, or starts to go, it will leak antifreeze and or you will be able to shake the pulley slightly. Double check and try to spin the water pump again without any belt tension on it. A water pump can go at any time however, if your car has less than like 80,000 miles on it, it's probably fine.

Q:Okay so earlier, I went to go test out my water pump and all on my 66 mustang 302. And I got it up to normal operating temp, and had the rad cap off. I gave it some gas, the coolant level didn't go down, instead it came out the rad pretty badly. I've been having overheating problems, and I have no leaks, i just replaced the thermostat a few days ago, it didn't help. I haven't seen any leaks around the weep hole on the water pump, or noises. Other than a belt that does need to be tightened a bit, you can hear the belt squeling a tiny bit. So do yall think it could be my water pump?: ok so the termostat replace no leaks and its overheating check the fan hub is it ok if yes then replace the radiator i dont think your head gaskets are blown because water came up when temp was hot an you reved up the engine however if water had came out when water was cold or warm the i say the head gaskets were blown hope this helps

Q:When you are replacing a water pump on a vehicle, should you replace the timing belt on the vehicle as well?: No. However I think you may be confusing the timing belt with the fan belt. Typically the timing belt is located within the engine. Some european models require this belt replacement. Typically 75 to 90 thousand miles. The fan belt, which is the belt that you can see in the front or side of the engine does need replaced occasionally. However just because you are changing the water pump doesn't mean that either of these belts need replaced. If the fan belt has cracks in it, then yes I would go ahead and change the belt at the same time that you are having the water pump changed.

Q:My car broke down yesterday and is waiting to be towed to the mechanic (2000 Dodge Neon). I'm pretty sure the Timing Belt broke, but my water pump was broken in the process and leaked out lots of water. Would the timing belt break the water pump when it snapped? Or does the broken water pump lead us to a different conclusion? Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.Also I was reading online today about interference engines, but couldn't find a list to verify if I have one of those or not. Anyone know? Thanks!: Timing belt replacement is a very tedious and expensive repair. It is better that when the mechanic changes your timing belt, he changes all the oil seals, timing and balance shaft belts, and the water pump. It is better to this all at once because if you only replace the timing belt, you may also have to replace the water pump in the near future, which is the same amount of labor time for the timing belt. This way all these part will have the same lifespan. If you timing belt broke, hope that your engine is not damaged.

Q:I have never had to deal with this and I am probably worrying about nothing but every time I run water, even for a second, the pump starts clicking on and off. Is it supposed to do it with every little thing? Every time the toilet flushes, or the water gets turned on to wash hands it goes off and keeps constantly going off until the water is shut off. Is this what it's supposed to do?: Jadee is correct. Your pump is waterlogged. This is a condition where all the compressable air has mixed with the water in the tank and the tank is full of water clear to the top, not allowing for any compression, which is where you get the pressure to push the water out when you open a fixture. When you open a fixture, regardless of which one, the pump senses a drop in pressure immediately and starts up. As soon as you close the fixture, the pump, which is now pumping water into the tank, senses the pressure coming quickly to where it needs to be and shuts off. There needs to be air in the top of the tank to compress in order for the system to function. If you have a bladder tank, (usually a green or blue tank with an indented seam around the middle of it), then most likely the bladder that's in the middle of the tank to keep the air and water apart so they don't mix, has ruptured and is now allowing the very thing to happen that it was designed to stop. You can drain the system of pressure and most of the water by turning off the pump and repressurizing the tank thru the air nozzle on top or the top side. Open a couple fixtures and allow the water to escape as you put pressure into the tank, until you get air and the water quits. Then turn off the fixtures, turn the pump back on and let it pump up. That will give you an air cushion on top of the tank and will let you use the system till you can decide whether you want to replace the tank or just use it as a convential resevoir system of old, (before bladder tanks). The procedure to restore the system to functionality is the same if it's an older tank without a bladder, only you may have a drain spigot on that type of a tank that will allow for gravity drainage of the water, instead of pressurization. It's not an uncommon occurance for those of us on older wells that don't have bladder tanks. We have to drain and restart ours about once every year or two, depending on how much time the grandkids spend here.

1. Manufacturer Overview
Location
Year Established
Annual Output Value
Main Markets
Company Certifications

2. Manufacturer Certificates
a) Certification Name
Range
Reference
Validity Period

3. Manufacturer Capability
a)Trade Capacity
Nearest Port
Export Percentage
No.of Employees in Trade Department
Language Spoken:
b)Factory Information
Factory Size:
No. of Production Lines
Contract Manufacturing
Product Price Range