Double Suction Split Casing Pump

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Product Overview:

Type XS pumps are new type of single-stage double-suction centrifugal split case pumps with high performance. They are widely used in delivering liquids to the water plant, circulation water system of air conditioner, pipe net system of supplying heated water, construction, drainage pumping station, power station, power station, industrial water supply system, ship industry, mine and etc. Type XS pumps are advanced products developed from type SH, S, SA, SLA, SAP pumps. We have manufactured this type of pump with the inlet diameter 1.4m.

The technical parameter of type XS pump:

Capacity

Head

Temperature

Solid parameter

Permissible pressure

Pump outlet diameter

22~11600m³/h

7~200m

-20°C~105°C(Type XS)
-60°C~200°C(Type XSR)

≤80mg/L

≤2.5Mpa  

(Type Xs) ≤4Mpa      

(Type XSR)

80~800mm

Technical Advantage:

  1. Type XS pumps work stably with less noise and vibration and can work at a lifting speed due to short support at both sides, thus they can be widely used.

  2. The pipelines arrangement of type XS pump looks simple and beautiful due to inlet and outlet at a same center line.

  3. The same rotor of type XS pumps can be operated at reverse direction to avoid damage to the pumps water hammer.

  4. Unique design of type XS pumps working at high temperature using middle support to fasten the pump casing and using cooling seals oil lubrication bearing then pump suitable for working at 200 centigrade especially for supplying heated water to pipe net system.

  5. Type XS pump casting parts can be vertically or horizontally mounted according to different working condition, with mechanical seals or packing seals.

  6. Type XS pumps look beautiful with visible lines adopting industrially designing.

Q:nan
CHECK the color of the COOLANT! genuine TOYOTA factory coolant is RED< and not GREEN or ORANGE or any other color! You can REMOVE the TIMING BELT COVER and check it for yourself! I can ASSURE YOU that in this cars PAST, the WATER PUMP and TIMING BELT were Chane or you would NOT BE DRIVING IT! There is NO timing belt or pump that can LIVE TO 160k miles! CHANCES are that this belt and pump were changed at 90-100k miles, and you are NOW DUE for another CHANGE flush and fill of the RED FACTORY COOLANT! The repair kit for a LEXUS or TOYOTA 3.0 liter engine, is about $140 including a brand new GENUINE AISIN PUMP from JAPAN! USE ROCK AUTO for these kit prices and parts! UNFORTUNATELY to do this job right requires a few SPECIAL TOYOTA TOOLS as well! The LEXUS RX300 needs a few panels removed as well! the 4 RUNNER should be EASIER to access! MOSt dealership want nearly $750 for a COOLING SYSTEM change, and a NEW WATER PUMP and TIMING BELT KIT installed! Both TOYOTA and LEXUS charge the EXACT SAME PRICE in the Detroit area!
Q:how to remove water pump on 95 honda accord
The water pump is located behind the timing belt, and one of the motor mounts also happens to be on the front cover. So you would need to support the engine, take the front engine mount off, take the timing cover off, remove the timing belt (good time to replace it, while you're in there), tensioners, pulleys, then remove the water pump. I'd replace the timing belt idler pulleys and tensioners as well. Installation is reverse of removal.
Q:It stops and every few minutes and when it stops, it sounds like water is running.
Your pump switch's on when the demand for water is required. The pump, pumps water at a certain rate of P.S.I (Pounds per Square inch) and depending on brand of pump will maintain a standard of pressure through out the house. If for any reason the pressure drops, the pump will automatically kick in to maintain pressure and volume of water required by it. A leaking faucet, or a toilet that is constantly running will drop pressure slowly. Check all your plumbing fixtures, including hot water heaters/storage heaters, boilers, furnaces, and any item/fixture the requires water to see if it is leaking, or passing water into a drain constantly. If problem persists contact a plumber. If the pump starts to labor to much, or starts to run constantly if may burn out rendering the pump useless.
Q:What is the current of the pump when it is started?
When the motor starts, the rotor changes from a prohibited state to a rotating state, requiring a great torque, and the current must increase. When the pump starts, because there is water, it is started with load, and the current will be greater.
Q:replaced water pump and thermostat, flushed, opened bleeder valve had long life red colored original coolant, no visible leaks obstruction, when became hot on highway, accelerated quickly and temp back down to norm, eventually after 3hrs driving o.heated stopped and got towed home, new water pumps fins/pulley not turning as freely as old one, no leak out of inspection hole, hoses good shape.2001 2.2l ohv sunfire, air cond.
get your vehicle up to operating temps and runs your hand along the core of the radiator from top to bottom. If it's cold at the bottom and hot at the top, it's plugged... Also I see where you bleed the system, might wanna check it again... air pockets are stubborn... Last but not least, have a C.O. test performed at a local radiator/automotive shop... This will tell you if you have a blown head gasket
Q:A pump parameter is the maximum flow per hour 960L, followed by the standard flow of 480 what do you mean?
Centrifugal pump, flow and head is an inverse relationship between the maximum flow, you said, lift the corresponding conveying pump is relatively low, the standard flow, the rated flow is designed and run in standard flow, pump efficiency is the highest, if more than the standard flow operation possible lead pump overcurrent heating, and a series of cavitation phenomena
Q:How much would it be in labor and parts to change a water pump and on a 2000 Dodge Durango 5.9 4 wd with 109k.miles? Should I change the timing chain? If you can please give me a estimated Thank You!I getting tired of old Vechiles LOL
2000 Dodge Durango Water Pump
Q:I'm not talking about for a car. Just the standard water pump for you house. Ours won't click on when it's supposed to. First we had to hit the tank itself, and now we have to tap the box on top (I'm assuming some sort of fuse box as there are wires coming out of it). It's getting ridiculous and I'm just ready to buy a new one, but I'm not sure where all you can buy one.
Lowe's Home Depot etc. The question is why in the world are you messing with a connection junction box (ie; electricity) and water when there are professionals out there to do the troubleshooting for you.... heck maybe even save you money in the long run. It may not be the pump, but a short in the electrical.
Q:TDH what units are present in the pump parameters?
In the pump parameters, TDH is the head of President (Ying Chi).The formula is as follows:TDH (Ying Chi) = total head (Ying Chi) = (- water pressure readings + drainage pressure gauge (drainage dynamic head - water head + (drainage pressure gauge - water pressure elevation correction table elevation correction)
Q:I Have a 1982 Suzuki DT8 Outboard motor, i rebuilt the water pup, new impeller, wear plate, all that. This is the first time iv run it in a barrel, it wont pump water now. But here is the thing, when i take the inspection cover off(the little round cover that lets you acces the shift linkage), and i run the motor, it will pump water. i noticed that wile i have that cover off all the exhaust comes out that hole and not out the bottom, is the exhaust getting sucked in the pump and stopping it from circulating water?
Sorry, I thought I was answering this question before......is there 2 questions. Ok, the water is exhausted out the fin just above and behind the prop. The exhaust and water are both in the leg area where the shift rod is, so when you take the access plate off, you'll get some water and exhaust. You can't see the water coming out the exhaust port with the motor in a barrel. It's below the water line. And no the exhaust isn't being sucked back in the water pump, at least not enough to matter. There is a flush attachment that will feed water from a hose into the water pump. With the engine on a rack, or the boat out of the water, you can see where the exhaust and water come out. Running in a barrel isn't the best way to see anything. If you take the prop off it's easy to over rev. the motor. My advise is to put the motor on the boat in the water and start it. Check the engine block every couple min. for overheating. A little water dribbled on the head will sizzle, if it's getting to hot...if so shut it down, and recheck the water pump job. There is a tube that sticks in to the water pump housing. make sure it's in position.

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