NL Series Submersibe Slurry Centrifugal Pump

NL Series Submersibe Slurry Centrifugal Pump System 1

NL Series Submersibe Slurry Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 100 unit/month

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Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:	standard plywood or carton for each submersibe slurry pump
Delivery Detail:	10 days after receiving pre-payment

Specifications

NL series Slurry pump mainly used in many areas like chemical,phramacy,shipbuilding,casting,foodstuff etc.

NL series submersibe slurry pump

NL sewage mud pump can be vertical or inclined to use, small footprint, volute to be buried in a working medium, easy to start, without diversion, the rotation from the direction of the motor tail clockwise work. The Switchboard length available in various specifications according to the application in order to use the unit chosen according to local conditions.

Main purpose:

1, NL sewage mud pump can be used for mining, paper-making, printing and dyeing, environmental protection, graphite, mica, gold, ceramic, oil refining, petroleum, chemical industry, farms, salt, iodine field, dyeing, brewing, food, fertilizer, coking, processing plant construction, marble factory, gold, mud, quicksand, mud, sewage ponds, contaminated fluid sent thick absorption liquid filling and suspended substances in sewage operations, but also can be used for mine drainage and fluid containing mud.

2, with high pressure water pump, water gun with a hydraulic mechanized earthmoving unit, it can be used as in the formation of land, river and pond dredging, drilling of small water conservancy projects of excavation and transportation side, as well as the city's air defense projects, underground works.

3, fish used as a water-clear pond, fish pond aerator.

Technical parameters:

Performance:

Flow range: 20 m3 / h ~ 180m3 / h

Head range: 8 ~ 20m

Motor power: 1.5kw ~ 22kw

Note: If you have special requirements, please contact our technical staff! (0577-67981766)

Model significance:

Examples: NL (C) 150 (A) -12

N ------- mud pump

L ----------- vertical

C ------- derived in line: the water stretch

150--------- caliber (mm)

A ------- improved A-mechanical seal

12----------- head (m)

Q:I'm having problems with my washer not filling, instead water is going directly out the drain. i want to see if something could be stuck in the pump. I have never looked at one before so I am not exactly sure what to look for. If you'd like you can see my previous post regarding this issue iv'e been dealing with all day. I dont have the money to hire a professional so I am trying like heck to figure it out myself.Thanks: Sounds like the pump is operating during the fill cycle. if there is something clogging the pump, you wouldn't be losing water, it would never drain.

Q:I'm doing a DCP project which is at its concept design stage.In order to estimate the chilled water pump size and ratings roughly, could anybody give me some tips on the average/normal chilled water pump heads for a typical 10000 TR DCP. The length of the longest loop could be around 600 m single run.: to boot to the availability and go back line, if there are different factors in the equipment at the same time with administration valves and warmth exchangers, their rigidity drop also desires to be protected.

Q:95 mustang leaking water pump changed the pump and its running backward now: See diagram of belt routing on rad cover or hood. Like the others said. Depending on the engine, it may run backwards to the crank, look at the old one to see how it turns. It pulls water from the rad to the block, not the other way round. With the rad cap off and as the thermostat opens, water should flow from the upper hose into the bottom of the rad Edit: water gets sucked up lower rad hose into pump, pushed into engine up to thermostat that controls water temp and back into rad at the top. if it does not over heat and the belt is on correctly , don`t worry. I hope you did the thermostat when the system was drained

Q:Hi. This car is 66 chevy but the motor is a 1984 chevy 350 4bolt main stroked to 383. I think its an '84, might be an '85. I need to replace fan clutch and water pump.... the fan clutch is bad but manufacturer of the replacement parts says you must do water pump and fan clutch together. Is the pump a 66 chevy pump or a 350 small block pump? What about the fan clutch? Ok, and please help with motor mounts. do I use mounts specific for 66 model or specific to the motor?: look okorder /

Q:Water pump 50HZ impeller and 60HZ what is different, why not the same?: 60Hz pump and 50Hz pump itself is not much difference, just that the motor speed, the rated speed is 3600 rpm, 1200 rpm, 1800 rpm, the latter is generally 3000, 1500, 1000 etc.. If it is to use the same pump, the difference is that the 60Hz motor pump flow is 50Hz, motor water pump flow of 1.2 times, the lift is 1.2*1.2=1.44 times, power is 1.2*1.2*1.2=1.728 times. So in the actual manufacture, especially some relatively large flow lift pumps, pump motor using 60Hz to use 50Hz thicker than the spindle motor of the pump impeller, the difference between the two, in addition to empty size shaft is different, what basically no difference. As for the data of package angle, the water conservancy models of different factories are different, but I don't know whether there is any difference between them. Most of them make no difference. However, if you want to use the 60Hz pump to achieve the same flow rate as the 50Hz pump, the impeller of the former should be cut to 0.833 times the size of the latter.

Q:they say a water pump going bad is supposed to weep out of that hole....Yet I see that a new water pump kit has two gaskettes.some o rings....is it likely that it can leak from these sources and still not come out the weep hole?They talk about berring that could go bad or seals gone bad...does this occure in the area that gets inserted into the engine( the turbine portion of the pump)if you had to guess..where is the most likely area for a water pump to fail...if seems like I have wetness off to the left( back toward the firewall) and less off to the right( front of the car)..more off the left..it is very subtile off the right.I don't see anything coming out of the weep hole..BUT the weephole is directly on top( dead center)and back towards the engine in this model. I have the car jacked up on the passengers side/next to the wheel wellso the fluid is most likely to flow backwards toward the drivers side.: A water pump could have all the works above the water, pulling via suction and pushed via atmospheric rigidity to a optimal of roughly 33 ft. Or it could have the motor above water and the lifting mechanism below with an prolonged rod connecting (like an oil properly with the donkey engine on the outdoors), yet a gaggle of weight and friction. Or it truly is waterproofed and the motor and pump decreased down the drilled shaft on a plastic pipe with an electric cord jointly with and push the water up. The final is a submersable. further sump pumps and recirculating pumps the place the cord, motor, and pump are below the liquid.

Q:leaking coolant after the car engine has stoppped: Some water pumps have weeping holes, if water is coming out of those then it is definitely your problem.

Q:I have a 2000 chevy impala with 85K on it. I have heard/a weird rattle noise from under the hood for some time now. I once asked about it on here and got suggestions regarding front end problems. I had that checked out and the front end is good. I still have the rattle noise along with a high pitched, but not very loud, squeeling noise when I accelerate. I am leaking coolant and it seems to be coming from near one of the belts. Is this a bad water pump? If so how expensive of a fix is it and how involved of a repair is it?: It sounds like a water pump or maybe a loose connection. It is probably time for a water pump if it hasn't been replaced yet. Parts will run under $60 and it probably involves an hour of labor. The Impala is a big car, it shouldn't be hard to get to and remove. Taking it to a shop will run under $100-$150 for everything.

Q:If there were no water at the discharge of a pump and then you had just fed water through and measured the pressure of the gauge...would that be a different pressure if the whole system (both inlet and outlet) were continuously filled with water?: 1.If there is no water at the discharge of the pump then there can be no pressure. 2. If there is water at the discharge of the pump, but the pump is not running, then there will be a pressure in the system. 3. If the pump is running, the pressure in the system will be higher than at 2.) above becuse it takes additional pressure to move the water through the piping. The flowing water requires additional pressure to get thru the piping system.

Q:I have a '97 Chevy S-10 2.2 with 208K miles. Today on the way to work the heat cut out suddenly.I have had an issue with my engine where the temp will go up and down while on the highway but maxes out at like 215. Today after the heat cut out it was getting up near the redline before going back down to 150.I made sure the coolant was good before coming home but on the way home it was doing the same thing. I changed the thermostat but it's still doing the same thing.When I rev the engine I can see the upper radiator hose collapsing so it seems like there's a clog somewhere but I don't know how to find it. I guess it could be the water pump but then what is causing the suction on the upper radiator hose?Anyone have any ideas?: You have a leak in a hose. I would suspect a heater hose or lower radiator hose. When you put water into the radiator, you still had air in the system, this prevents you from having the required amount of coolant in the system. Find the leak, fix the leak. Jack up the front of the truck to where the radiator cap is at the highest point in the system, then add coolant. Problem solved.

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