NL Series Submersibe Slurry Centrifugal Pump

NL Series Submersibe Slurry Centrifugal Pump System 1

NL Series Submersibe Slurry Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 100 unit/month

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Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:	standard plywood or carton for each submersibe slurry pump
Delivery Detail:	10 days after receiving pre-payment

Specifications

NL series Slurry pump mainly used in many areas like chemical,phramacy,shipbuilding,casting,foodstuff etc.

NL series submersibe slurry pump

NL sewage mud pump can be vertical or inclined to use, small footprint, volute to be buried in a working medium, easy to start, without diversion, the rotation from the direction of the motor tail clockwise work. The Switchboard length available in various specifications according to the application in order to use the unit chosen according to local conditions.

Main purpose:

1, NL sewage mud pump can be used for mining, paper-making, printing and dyeing, environmental protection, graphite, mica, gold, ceramic, oil refining, petroleum, chemical industry, farms, salt, iodine field, dyeing, brewing, food, fertilizer, coking, processing plant construction, marble factory, gold, mud, quicksand, mud, sewage ponds, contaminated fluid sent thick absorption liquid filling and suspended substances in sewage operations, but also can be used for mine drainage and fluid containing mud.

2, with high pressure water pump, water gun with a hydraulic mechanized earthmoving unit, it can be used as in the formation of land, river and pond dredging, drilling of small water conservancy projects of excavation and transportation side, as well as the city's air defense projects, underground works.

3, fish used as a water-clear pond, fish pond aerator.

Technical parameters:

Performance:

Flow range: 20 m3 / h ~ 180m3 / h

Head range: 8 ~ 20m

Motor power: 1.5kw ~ 22kw

Note: If you have special requirements, please contact our technical staff! (0577-67981766)

Model significance:

Examples: NL (C) 150 (A) -12

N ------- mud pump

L ----------- vertical

C ------- derived in line: the water stretch

150--------- caliber (mm)

A ------- improved A-mechanical seal

12----------- head (m)

Q: Had my car in to the shop this morning, it's a 2000 Ford Escort ZX2. The water pump and radiator need to be replaced, and they said they can do it for $380. Is this a reasonable price? Also, if I don't get them fixed right away, am I risking a lot of permanent damage to the engine?: Good chance you have a leaking head gasket. Try this, with the engine cold, remove the radiator cap, start the engine and let the car idle until it heats up. Look into the radiator, can you see large bubbles (like blowing slowly through a straw into a glass of water) or a foamy looking coolant in the radiator opening? You also need to see if there is oil in the radiator. Is the cooling system loosing coolant with no apparent external leaks? Does the car loose coolant , but never leave a puddle on the ground? A leaking head gasket is common on engine with aluminum heads and iron blocks, especially if the engine has been previously overheated. Some shops have a chemical test for combustion gasses in the radiator. It is also possible to use a system pressure test, where the entire system is pumped up to 15-20 PSI and then allowed to sit and see if the pressure drops. A quick drop in pressure indicates a leak. A pressure test can allow you to see where a leak originates, since the car is sitting and a leak will be very apparent.

Q: What does 'MCL' Unit stands for water pump. How can convert this Meter head of the pump. For example : 50 MCL to ------- MTR HEAD. What is the formula?: This Site Might Help You. RE: What does 'MCL' Unit stands for water pump.? What does 'MCL' Unit stands for water pump. How can convert this Meter head of the pump. For example : 50 MCL to ------- MTR HEAD. What is the formula?

Q: I have a 1992 Pontiac Sunbird LE. It has 4 cyl. and it has 98,000+ miles on it. I took it in to get the oil changed and they inspected the car for a noise it was making. Found out the water pump was gone and the timing belt was worn. Need replacement on both. They quoted me 670.00 for the repair! STEEP! The part should cost about 20.00 max. How do I replace the water pump myself? And the timing belt? Do I need special tools? If I can't do it pretty easily myself, how much should I pay for the repair? I'm not made of money, but I need my car to run to get me to work everyday! I can't afford much, so anything around 200-300 is probably the most I can spend on the repair. What should I do?: The best thing you could do is maybe run to a library and they might have a Chiltons or Haynes repair manual you can make some copies of, check it out and decide for yourself, but a timing belt is a pretty involved process, not so much for a water pump.

Q: Car is ford taurus 98.The car had some problems including overheating as thermostat was bad so was was not working. i drove it 25 miles to garage (i had to stop once because too hot to let it cool), i brought it to Ford who replaced the thermostat. Now they tell me some bits of thermostat broke and they need to replace the waterpump and want $620 for it. The other repair were also extremely expensive and i want to bring it to another garage 1.3 miles away on flat road.-1- is it safe to drive 1.3 mile with no water pump or should iget it towed?-2- should i have to pay for the water pump or is it ford's fault if they did not remove the bits of broken thermostat before reconnecting new thermostat to hose ? Can i prove that the pump was working when i came in if i drove 25 miles with it ?Thanks for your help.: driving it 1.3 miles should be no problem, but why do they believe the water pump is bad? Do they have the water pump off the engine yet? It's not impossible for bits of the thermostat to break up and cause a problem, but it IS unlikely. Was the car maintained with the proper coolant otherwise? It is not unlike a garage to get you in for one repair and sell up to another that you do not need. Please answer the questions above... Thanks for responding!! The thermostat is made so that if the spring breaks (which it can),the pieces are captured around the center post and, generally, can't be sent thru the cooling system. When a pump goes bad, it is usually the bearings that go out and they can create a whirring noise and as they get worse, coolant will start to leak where the shaft comes out of the water pump. A simple way to tell if it is bad is to try to wiggle this shaft or look for coolant leaking out the area of the shaft (with the engine off, of course). To answer your original question tho, IF this is legitimate, then you should pay for the water pump. If the water pump is off already, did they take it off without your knowledge? If so, don't drive it. Get them to put the old one back on (free) and drive it down the road. If it's still on the engine, driving it the 1.3 miles shouldn't be any problem. Best of luck to you P.S. One of the responders above said to loosen the radiator cap because the water heats quicker under pressure. THIS IS NOT CORRECT. If the car were to overheat while the cap was off, you run the risk of losing all of your coolant.

Q: My timing belt is worn but has not broken yet. The mechanic first told me it would be about $200-250 to replace the belt. Then he called back and said it was going to be $550 because on an Aveo you have to replace the water pump at the same time. I asked if it was possible to do just the belt and he said quot;well the water pump will probably break when we take it outquot;. Is this a sign that I should just break down and go to a dealership so that my water pump won't quot;breakupon removal?: He is saying that, because the water pump is driven by the timing belt and you SHOULD replace it while you are in there. Why pay twice down the road? Sure the belt can be done without doing the pump, the fact that he said the pump will break when doing a belt is complete bullsh*t though. There is no need to do anything to the pump when changing the belt other than taking the belt off the pulley. That's it. Generally, I just add maybe .5 hrs to the labor for the belt when doing the pump also, DOUBLE doesn't make any sense whatsoever. Unless he is worried about pump BOLTS snapping from CORROSION (that may be it) when removing the actual water pump, that is the only thing that can possibly justify doubling the labor, they may be in water jackets in the block. He should, however, make you aware that that is a possibility and not automatically assume that will happen and charge you for it. Depends, if they are careful with the removal, it should just add another 20-30 minutes to the timing belt job. Either way if you turn down the pump and they are telling you it will still break(?), go somewhere else. I work on cars everyday and would never charge someone an additional 300 dollars off the bat assuming the bolts will break. There are tricks to prevent that as well (penetrating fluid/PB Blaster). Generally if that does happen, one maybe two bolts would break tops and that still doesn't justify the additional labor... Hope that helps....

Q: How hard is it change a 1993 subaru imprezza water pump: hi Silicone wont do it, keep in mind the rad cap says 15lb. On my truck there's a center gasket and it leaked out the backside. So it probable has to return out. or possibly a bolt got here out?

Q: I have a 2001 chevy malibu and need to know how to check if the water pump needs replaced. The engine has been running much hotter than normal and is leaking coolant.: Normally if the water pump is bad it will be leaking fluid from a little weep hole right under the pulley bearings. If you have fluid coming from there then yes it needs to be replaced.

Q: I need to fit a booster pump to increase pressure from a gravity fed vented solar water heater (uses vacuum tubes).The problem is that the temperature of the water from the solar panel can be very high - in fact it could boil under some circumstances. It's safe because the system is vented.As the quot;solarwater feeds existing water heaters in the house, diluting the hot with some cold prior to the pump with an automatic mixer valve is not really an attractive option as we want to gather as much hot water as possible.Can anyone tell me where to get a booster pump that can operate at up to 100 Deg C, delivering 2 bar pressure and about 25 liters per minute. Thanks.: Yes you can as per the other answer . Make sure when you do you dont exceed the Gallons per minute of the cellar pump or you will burn up the pump on your house . Also make sure that the pump in your moms house can only pump up to 50 psi . Most well pumps can pump higher but that is the setting on the presure switch You might be able to change the tank and switch in moms cellar to a bigger presure tank and up the presure on the presure switch and cure the problem that way and not work the well pump so hard by turning off and on so often .

Q: I have a 1997 15hp Mercury 2-stroke outboard. When I run it it runs great and does what i want it to do. However, sometimes it doesn't pee. I can still hold my hand in the stream when it does but its very very hot. It always pees when i run the motor WOT but when im just chugging along it goes out for a bit and then comes back on. Is this supposed to happen? I was told by my dad that the thermostat regulates the pump so that it doesn't cool the engine down too much. Any and all advice is greatly appreciated: The telltale stream should be flowing all the time. Check if this engine has a termister and replace the imbeller

Q: The garage told me my water pump was pumping quot;weaklyand needs to be replaced.: A water pump can start to 'pump weakly' as the blades on the rotor wear out. That will reduce the amount of coolant that is being moved through the system. That causes the temperature to rise overall. Usually that does not happen before the bearing wears out. When that happens you will normally see some coolant dripping out of the weep hole of the pump if the pump is on the outside of the engine.

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