Q:My dad wants to buy a salt water pump for a tiny pool.I'm not sure if it's pointless for the size that the pool is, but it is 12x12x3Is it too small of a pool or are there salt water pumps meant for tiny pools that I could look at?A link to any would be nice. :)Thanks!

If you live the ocean try the shipyard, or any ,were around dock...or online..

Q:When I turn on my pump for the pool water-fountain it will run for 30 seconds or 4 minutes or anywhere in between then it just shuts off. I push the remote on button on again and it runs for a few seconds. Sometimes it will run for a while longer but mostly short durations. Thanks in advance for your help.

outdated wiring. Hire a certified electrician to re-wire it. Could be the timer too! Quit messing with it or you could have an electrical fire. Feel the walls near and around the set up box.

Q:Motor has over 200k miles. Water pump took a dump. Gear is very wobbly! primary timing chain tensioner off the right bank hasn't any tension on chain at all! Crank turns but doesn't turn the chain. So motor is way out of time for sure now.Found small piece of aluminum and 2 -1/2pieces of appears to be a spring pin. Am I correct to assume these pieces are from the water pump? A new chain and water pump I can see doing on this old motor! But? Any suggestions on what to do next before I waste my money? What kind of compression reading can I get with all the plugs out and manually turning the crank? Short answers of scrap it not welcomed! I'll determine that after I'm satisfied it's truly bad! Thanks!

I also own a 2001 Intrepid and recently had a water pump go bad which also broke my timing chain. The pieces of aluminum you found are probably valves or valve springs from the head. Mine broke every vavle and spring on one head when my engine jumped time and a few more on the other head that is probably what your seeing. Also you don't want to check for compression by turning the crank manually. It is an expensive job to fix but the cars are great but I wouldn't spend too much on them because they only go for about $3000-3700 in great condition nowadays. Good Luck

Q:Is there a way to test and see if it is the water pump that causes the car heater to blow hot air one time and then, next time it blows cold air? We flushed the heater core and did other tests, so we do not believe it is the heater core. We left the radiator cap off and ran the car (ford thunderbird..'94) for 20 minutes and watched the antifreeze level come up, but doesn't go down, not circulating. We cannot afford to go to another garage. None of them seem to know what to do anywyas and we keep paying people to fix the heater and it is not fixed. We have put two new thremostats in car, too, figuring that maybe the first one may have been faulty, but should we try that again?

On many cars you cannot see the coolant circulating especially at idle. Just because you do not have heat does not mean the water pump, and if your car is not overheating it is probably - I say probably - doing its job. So stop putting thermostats on, probably assume the water pump is okay. So, put a thermometer into the radiator to see how hot the coolant is getting - should be ~180 degrees or so. Hmmmm - Does this car have an electronic climate control system? Perhaps that is the reason you have an intermittant problem. Assuming manual climate control - It could be a vacuum leak to one of the manual vents that is allowing cool air to mix with the hot. Or, maybe the slider from hot to cold is not working. What troubles me is the intermittant problem here. So, I will go out on a limb and say it could possibly be a bad head gasket for reasons I will not get into here. In any case, Good Luck!

Q:The truck has 89k on it and i'm having the timing belt done this week; would it be wise to get the pump changed since it's in the same area, even though it's not leaking; for preventitive maintenance purposes, or is there life left in the pump? I don't want to take it back soon after if the pump does go out

From my experience the average life expectancy is 7 to 10 yrs depends on usage. Seems like they last longer when used more often. Hope this answers your Q' BIG CHEO

Q:Have a Toyota RAV4. About 156, 000 miles on it.Yesterday as I started driving, there was a sound coming from underthe hood that sounded similar to a stick in bicycle spokes. Got to theend of the block and stopped and noticed there was smoke comingfrom below the belts.Got back to the house and the temp was up really high. No fluid.Added fluid and water and it was leaking, but not from the radiatoritself, but from towards the back of the engine?Might this be the water pump?

yes..very well maybe waterpump. i sugest you check,and change pump,timing belt,belt tensioner and idler as well..

Q:I'm going on a week long hiking trip and need safe water. What brand and model of water filter/pump should i get? Whats good quality for a low price?

The best water filter depends on your objective. A ceramic filter removes large amoeba and bacteria, but not viruses from water sources. A filter that includes activated charcoal removes some harmful chemicals. The gear that you purchase is determined by factors such as speed of treatment; types of exposure threats; portability; ease of use; field maintenance. Study reviews and advice. Backpacker Magazine and YouTube are two sources of good information. The most popular filters are pump or gravity feed. SteriPen is an ultraviolet alternative, though unreliable in field testing that I have seen. Expect to pay $100 for any good filtration system. A ceramic filter is essentially permanent. Other filters require replacement periodically. Do not spend less on filters that do not perform adequately for removal of common water pathogens. I have used the MRS Miniworks and Platypus GravityWorks filter. GravityWorks is the fastest, easiest filter for water treatment.

Q:A direct type pump model with the coupling type, what is the difference?

The direct type shall be the same shaft of the pump and the motor, and the connecting shaft is a pump and the motor shall be 2 shafts, and shall be connected by a shaft coupling.

Q:i have a significant stream of water running out of the coolant return side of the engine under the coolant pipe on a 1997 caravan i will lose a gallon and then it stops until the engine heats up and of course more comes out with expansion

oh boy i think u have to take the timing belt , matterof factchange the timming belt too , it should be cheaper since it's already open,check pepboys autozone,murray's , they would give u a diagram for it

Q:I have a Stamas boat that I am in the middle of restoring. It has 2 chevy 350's, with borg warner (sp) tranny's, and v-drives. Anyway, it has standard water pumps to cool the engines, and it had 2 Sherwood pumps to circulate the water to cool the tranny's, and v-drives. First, I am using the boat in Lake Michigan only, the water is very cool year round since it is such a big body of fresh water. I was wondering if there was any recommendation on possibly using 2 electric pumps to circulate the water? If so, what would a good unit be? Second, the transmission coolers were brass, with a honey comb in the center for the ATS fluid to run through, and the water would run on the outside to cool the fluid. Is this a more effective way to cool the fluid than with those expensive brass fitting? Just checking before I spend a few hundred on them to see if a better way to cool my engine and tranny's, in all honestly though, I am more worried about effectiveness than cost.

Why okorder /