Foster Pump

Hot Products

Submersible Sewage Water Pump Cutter Pump

Water Pump Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump Sewage Pump

Water Pump Sewage Pump Submersible Pump Slurry Pump

High quality Multistage centrifugal pump

Water Pump Slurry Sewage Submersible Water Pump

Slurry Pump Water Pump Sewage Pump Submersible Pump

Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump Sewage Pump With Stainless Steel

Cast Iron Submersible Sewage Cutter Pump Sewage Pump

Water Pump Slurry Pump Sewage Submersible Water Pump

Submersible Sewage Water Pump with Cutter Sewage Pump

FAQ

I have a deep tropical fish tank, my three in one pump is 15 watts, if I put it in the middle of the active oxygen bubbling tank can function, everything is normal, but not very good filtering, can not clean up the garbage at the bottom of the tank. So they put the pump a little deeper, but at this time the pump does not bubble, the oxygen supply in the pipe there is water, atmospheric pressure can not enter, but still can pump water filter, so that the pump itself harmful? Will the pump burn out? This question is very important to me. Please help my brothers and sisters downstairs. I will thank you for my dear tropical fish

The easiest way is to pump a bottle of mineral water under the pump. It's too long to cut off some of it.Bottle to the end, the pump can beat oxygen on the line. A hole is under the bottle.

Okay so we have a water pump outside instead of city water. A few days ago we noticed that it would turn off like always once the tank was full but then just would never turn back on. It was odd to us since it would always turn on and off at appropriate times. Now its on maybe 10 seconds and it shuts off. I took off one of the clear hoses it has and notices a green ooze inside it. I cleaned out the ooze and tapped some of the pipes in hopes of some more of it coming out. Since we have had a leak there is green stuff which i am guessing is lime, on the side of the tank. I'm also guessing this must bee the green ooze. What should I do? Now there is no water whatsoever being pumped and the time it does turn on very little water passes through. To me it sounds like something is blocking the pipes but if I pay hundreds for someone to come replace the pipes and check out the motor I dont want to end up with this problem again. If anyone has any information as to helping me I would so greatly appreciate it.

do you have shallow or deep well its the middle of summer the well could be dry you might have lost your prime on your pump there will be a bolt for priming take bolt out pour water in to hole untill full restart pump if pump doesnt fill up you might a stuck foot valve.

I recently changed the lower unit, and am having no water out the top 2 ports just below the powerhead, also the engine is getting heated up. any other pumps other than in the lower unit?any advice is appreciated.

I think that when you put the lower unit back on you may have not gotten the water tube in properly so it is not pumping any water up to the power head.When you replaced your Impeller did you check to be sure there were no pieces of the old Impeller stuck in the housing anywhere?If you have done these things and it still does not pump water then you probably have a stuck thermostat and need to replace it.Hope this helps you and good luck.

looking for ideas and info to build a simple and rustic wind powered pump for a backyard pond. I don't want to use any elecricity and I would like to create something that once its made, will be trouble free and simplistic in operation. I esp. want info regarding the vane design and the method of drawing the water. I would appreciate any web sites, but I don't want to buy any pre-designed thing or plans.

I suggest you buy one ready-made if you want trouble-free operation. Here in rural NZ they're common on farms. You can buy versions that stop pumping when your pond water has reached a certain level. They don't need any electric power and they work for years without problems. As you probably know, suction pumps can only raise water about 10 metres, but I think you can buy wind-powered pumps that push the water up from below. The vanes are connected to the piston at the bottom of the bore by a linkage.

Why does the pump decay when connected in parallel?

Pump parallel mainly solves the problem of insufficient flow. After parallel, the flow is two and the sum of the pumps. When the flow rate increases, the pressure loss of the pipeline will increase, so the water pump flow in parallel will not be the sum of the two pump flow, but less than the sum of the flow rate. The solution is to increase the diameter of the water supply pipe, reduce the angle bend and shorten the distance.........

i need the location of the water pump or for the thermostat thank you

The water pump is timing belt driven and is under the plastic timing cover on passenger side. These water pumps have a history of breaking, due to the fact they have a plastic impeller and it shears off the shaft, which causes the engine to overheat. First you want to remove the thermostat and then check the water pump. Follow the lower radiator hose to where it connects to the engine. That flange is where the thermostat is at. After you remove the thermostat you can shine a light in the hole and put your finger in there, if the impellar of the water pump moves, it needs to be replaced. If it does, then you might as well replace the timing belt and tensioner, seeing how you have to remove it to get the water pump off.

I have a Stamas boat that I am in the middle of restoring. It has 2 chevy 350's, with borg warner (sp) tranny's, and v-drives. Anyway, it has standard water pumps to cool the engines, and it had 2 Sherwood pumps to circulate the water to cool the tranny's, and v-drives. First, I am using the boat in Lake Michigan only, the water is very cool year round since it is such a big body of fresh water. I was wondering if there was any recommendation on possibly using 2 electric pumps to circulate the water? If so, what would a good unit be? Second, the transmission coolers were brass, with a honey comb in the center for the ATS fluid to run through, and the water would run on the outside to cool the fluid. Is this a more effective way to cool the fluid than with those expensive brass fitting? Just checking before I spend a few hundred on them to see if a better way to cool my engine and tranny's, in all honestly though, I am more worried about effectiveness than cost.

You would be playing with fire to use electric pumps to cool the transmissions and v drives. I doubt they would put out the volume of cooling water needed to cool them and have enough extra volume just in case. Besides, the raw water pumps also would cool the engines and exhaust systems if they are raw water cooled or they would cool the anti freeze and exhaust and transmissions with heat exchangers and oil coolers. Those transmission coolers should be plumbed into the raw water system using the same water that flows through the engines. Not to mention the reliability of the electric pumps vs engine driven pumps.

Theirs a house on a hill and a pond at the bottom of the hill what kind of pump can pull water 50ft up a hill?

You can not lift water by suction more that about 30 to 34 feet depending on the water's temperature. It will literally try to boil and the pump will lose suction. You can only push the water up the hill with the pump at are near the bottom of the hill.