Petroleum pump
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Horizontal centrifugal pump
Complies to API610, 682,ISO2858standards
Max pressure: 2.5MPa
Capacity: 0.64~2400 m3/h
Head: 4~250m
Model: IJ series chemical processpump: Horizontal single stage pump
Capacity : 0.64-2400m3/h
T: -20---200oC
Material (For wet parts in contactwith medium): CS, cast iron, 304(0Cr18Ni99ti), 305 (1cr18ni9t), MCU, CD4MCu,316, 316L, 310S, alloy 20#, 904, ta2, Ti/pd (titanium-palladium alloy), Ni(nickel), Monel. Dual-phase stainless steel, etc.
These materials have been selectedas a result of many years of experience in the use of chemical engineeringmaterial, to satisfy the special demands made in pump construction.
Mechanical seal: According tocustomer's requirements
We provide:
1. Mechanical seal---171(A) mechanicalseal (this kind of seal is the national-patented product, patent No. ZL92 220977.4 ) single or dual MS.
2. Dynamic seal.
3. Packing gland seal.
Or other brands.
Coupling: Pin type coupling
Usage:
Soda, paper, salts. Metallurgy,acid-making, petrochemical, fiber, plastic, paper-making, chemical fertilizer.Fermentation, environmental protection.
Please. Visit our web site to getmore information of this
- Q: I've got a 1997 Ford Probe, taken it to a couple different places; whenever I drive my vehicle, it tends to want to overheat. I don't drive it to the point where it does though, I know that could cause more damage! I've noticed that when I go out to my car in the morning, there's some coolant on the ground by the front passenger's tire. Before I drive it I fill it with coolant, as to try to keep it from overheating while driving.I've been told that it's the water pump leaking from 2 people but then the last person said there's no leakage. I'm wondering if it might be something else? Maybe a thermostat, a hose, maybe? How would I figure this out???
- If it is your water pump, just keep driving the car and you will soon know. The pump will lock up, you get towed in, then get to have the pump repaired. By what you said, my guess is the water pump needs replaced.
- Q: Im changing my water pump and it has a pully that the belt gos on in front of it and the pully has 1 big bolt in the middle of it and like 4 small ones around it and when i try to undo the bolts the pully turns and im not quite the mechanic but i do know that the pully has to come off 1st so how do i take out the bolts without the pully turning???? and yes the belt is off and battery id disconnected and the car is not hot it hasnt ran in days. and it has a 3.4 v6
- For the best answers, search on this site https://shorturl.im/awNHT Did you hit up both bleeders? Run the car until the thermostat opens. You'll know when because the cooling fan will cycle on. With the car running, and the Rad cap off, start with the bleeder near the thermostat housing (RH side as you're looking at the motor from the front.) Leave it open until you have steady stream of coolant flowing. Close, and move to the bleeder on the left. It's on the metal tubing above the water pump. Same thing, open until coolant flows. Close bleeder, then run the engine up manually at the throttle body. Keep adding coolant to the radiator untill it's topped off with no bubbles coming out. Cap the radiator before letting off the gas. Fill the resevoir, to the full hot line or a little over. Any random small bubble with make their way to the res, being replaced by fluid.
- Q: Weap seal is starting to leak and getting some noise from the water pump. These cars are not as easy as a 1969 Camaro to change the water pump. Can you please give me some guidance? Thx in advance.
- It's easier than you think. Pull front covers off under hood that cover radiator area. One is a plastic guard and under that is the metal support. Pull electric fan out by onbolting it from sides and 2 clips on top and eletrical connector. Now you have room to work. Loosen belts by losening bolt in center of pulley then loosen them by turning adjustment bolt. pull off belts then pull off these pullies with their brackets as one unit off front cover. Take off front covers by taking off 10mm bolts. Crank area has a triangle shaped plate and you can and just loosen bottom 10mm bolt and take off the two above. now slide cover up and you can see water pump. Set cams on their marks for reference, they have a dot on cams and a slot on housings. loosen timing belt tensioner on bottom of engine and evenly pull bolts to get slack on timing belt about one inch should be enough. now you can pull pump off and slide it out being carefull not to let belt slip on cams and lose timing. install the same way, then slowly turn each bolt up on hydrolic tensioner to ease tensioner center pin back to position. make sure timing marks are ok then put everthing back by reverse order. Or you can also pull radiator and bottom crank pulley with a 3 jaw puller and replace belt with new one. This involves pulling out tensioner also. tensioner can be collapsed in vice slowly then use suitable pin to go through cener pin and its case to keep it collapsed, set on new belt and pull pin after tensioner is installed to set belt tension. I hope this helps, Iv'e done this on a few 3.5 litres my self. GOOD LUCK.
- Q: I have a 1.5 horse Power Hit and Miss engine? Is it possible to buy a water pump I could run off of the hit and miss engine that would pump water from a river over a big hill and little ways and into a water tank or is this just a waste of time. How much water could I pump at a time? A trickle or a gush of water? When I say hill I don't mean like a little hill in your yard I mean a hill you have to hike up? If you don't know are there any resources I could access? Where could I buy such a pump if there is one?
- A horse and a half won't do much. You would be better off with a hydraulic ram type pump if you can get about a 10 or 15 foot fall before the ram. It will pump about 4 or 5 times the height of the fall, but in small quantities. It will run 24/7 without gasoline, so it will fill a tank over a long period of time. The railroads used them during the steam era when they had huge water towers out on the plains.
- Q: Colleagues, could you explain the principles of operation of the water vane vacuum pump? What range of pressure can one achieve with this type of vacuum pump? If somebody could post a reference to books, app notes, commercial datasheets of such pumps, that would be simply great.
- Natural okorder /
- Q: I installed a new water pump on a Cherokee straight-6 engine, the upper radiator hose is not heating up and the engine is starting to make a funny noise. The thermostat is new and was working fine before. The coolant reservoir is full and no more coolant will drain to radiator / engine. Anyone know why waterpump is not circulating coolant?
- is the radiator full enough?
- Q: I have a 2002 honda civic with 85k miles the dealer says the timing belt should be replaced. But with the water pump timing belt tensioner also have to be replaced???
- I agree with the dealer.It may sound like he is trying to jack up the job but in fact it will save you money and grief in the long run. Getting to those parts is so labor intensive that if you have to go back in later to change the pump or tensioner pulleys it will cost you the same as it did to have the belt changed. The other thing if the pump starts leaking on a new belt you will have to have it replaced again. Whenever I do a timing belt I change everything that is in there. Then I don't have to worry about it.
- Q: toyota prius 2002 inverter water pump where is located and how to replace and buy
- Go okorder /
- Q: i have a water leak near the water pump in my 1990 cadillac deville i replaced the water pump but it was remanufactured and a pipe on the back of the water pump can it be a heater core or should i buy a brand new one p.s. water leaks after it passes the radiator
- this is why I do not buy remanufactured pumps, it is best to buy a new water pump if you can, it will last the lifetime of the car pretty much, remanufactured for what ever reason the water pumps just did not do the job, and I know my mechanic got tired of putting one on, only to have to take it off because it leaked, make sure the water pump is the problem though.
- Q: here is the problem with my water pump control switch settings. the water is being used, runs dry and stays off for sometimes 3 minutes or so.i realize the springs control the cut in and cut out. do i need to make the spring more compressed to make the pump come on sooner? or do i need to make the spring looser to make the switch come on sooner?when i read/hear about adjusting the cut in. the answers seem vague because i do not know the perspecitve of the spring.does compressing the spring make the swith flip easier? or does compressing the spring make the switch harder to flip on?i installed a new 30/50 switch today. My air tank was at 50 or so PSI. but i dropped it to about 30. is the goeal to make the entire full system 50 pounds? because after my pump cycles i get about 70 psi!!!
- with the switch set to operate at 30/50 the tank should have 27 or 28 pounds of air with no water in tank and a faucet open with pump turned off...once this is set the pump will come on at 30 and off at 50 if it goes higher than this the switch is bad or the adjustments have been changed....tightening the tall spring turns both cut in and cut off pressure higher...loosening the tall spring turns both cut in and cut off lower....the short spring sets the difference between the two...tightening the shorth spring raises cut off pressure only...loosening the short spring lowers cut off pressure only....
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Petroleum pump
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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