Egypt 6''8''10'' Deep Well Submersible Pump( Solar Pump )

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

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Supply Capability:: 5000 unit/month

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Quick Details

Place of Origin:Henan, China (Mainland)
Brand Name:SHENWU
Model Number:200QJ32-52/4
Theory:Centrifugal Pump
Structure:Multistage Pump
Usage:Water
Power:Electric
Standard or Nonstandard:Standard
Fuel:Electric
Pressure:High Pressure
Application:Submersible
Material:Cast Iron / Stainless Steel
Color:Blue or Green
Flow:32m3/h
Head:52m
Head Range:50-54m
Power:7.5kW
Drive:Motor
OEM,Design Service:Accept
Using:river,deep borehole well,open well,pool,etc
Outlet Diameter:1.2,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,10 inch

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:	plywood case with carbon box
Delivery Detail:	3-5 days after payment confirmation

Specifications

Egypt 6''8''10'' Deep Well Submersible Pump
1.Flow:10~500 m3/h
2.Lift: 5~400m
3.Diameter:30~150mm
4.CE, BV, ISO9001

Egypt 6''8''10'' Deep Well Submersible Pump( Solar Pump )

Our main products QJ submersible pumps series, QS bearing submersible pump series; QSL submersible halogen pumps series; WQ sewage pumps series; QY Oil Immerse submersible pump; SLG/SLW pipeline pump; D-Phase pumps; MD centrifugal pumps; SSQJ stainless steel deep well pumps, etc. over 40 kinds of series.

The pump flow range: 5m3/h~2000m3/h,

Lift scope : 5m-1400m,

Motor power range: 0.55-500 kW.

There are over 3000 models.

SQJ ,SQS,SQY Submersible Pump Series Parameters

SQJ Submersible pumps Parameters:

Flow range10~500m3/h, Lift scope within 5~405m;

Caliber scope 32~203mm, Temperature range-15~80° C.

SQS Bearing submersible pumps Parameters:

Flow range10~250m3/h, Lift scope within 5~12m;

Caliber scope 30~150mm, Temperature range<=30° C.

SQY Oil Immersed submersible pumps Parameters:

Flow range10~100m3/h, Lift scope within 5~54m;

Caliber scope 51~152mm, Temperature range<=40° C.

Products Overview

SQJ, SQS, SQY, Series submersible pumps widely used in farmland irrigation, spray irrigation and water-use, industrial and civil buildings, also the drainage system to level hills, mountain diversion and in low-lying areas dunes, urban and rural mining supply, drainage and other water conservancy facilities. Characteristics are that they are assembled into a simple structure they have installation convenience a small footprint, simple maintenance and a safe reliable operation.

Product use conditions

1. SQJ Submersible pumps use conditions:

(1)380 V bias voltage does not exceed +/-10% and 50 HZ frequency, and the deviation is not more than + -1% of the three-phase power supply.

Electrical cavity must be filled with water during operation.

(3)The first-class pump impeller should at least go into a dynamic water level 2 m below surface. Static pump unit immersed under water shall not be greater than 70 m in depth.

(4)The normal water temperature should be no higher than 20 ° C, QJR- hot water pump temperature up to 80 ° C.

(5)Water and sand content (by mass) of not more than 0.01%.

(6)Water PH 6.5-8.5.

(7)The hydrogen sulfide in water content is not more than 1.5 mg / L.

2. SQS Bearing submersible pumps usage conditions:

(1)Power: 50 Hz frequency and voltage of 380 volts (allowing deviations +5% -10%) of the three-phase AC power. Pumps should be safe submerged operations, diving depth of not less than 0.5 meters.

(2)Water: general corrosion without water, sand volume is not 0.02%, PH: 6.5 ~ 8.5, extracting the water temperature no higher than 30 ° C.

3. SQY Oil Immersed submersible pumps use conditions:

Submersible pumps submerged depth of not more than 5 m; Water temperature does not exceed 40 ° C; water sediment or water insoluble solid mark of the volume ratio of not more than 0.1%, particle size less than 0.2mm, water pH value of 6.5 ~ 8.

Q:I'm just wondering where I should buy my new water pump for my 2.2 cavalier? Auto zone, carquest, checker? Does it matter which one?Thanks: out of all the auto parts stores i use autozone is the cheapest but 45 miles away so i mainly use napa.

Q:The pond is 10' long x 2' wide x 1' deep. The pump is at one end and water is raised 1' to a buried garden hose that is maybe 12' long and then at the end it goes up 2' to release the water over some rocks. I had a 330 gph pump that worked well but died. That size has been discontinued. Go smaller or bigger? DON: the pro's for having a liner is which you have greater freedom to create your person pond and how that's formed and the intensity of it. The con's are somewhat that it takes some paintings, quite in case you're digging it by potential of hand. With an pre-shaped pond, the paintings is greater basic yet you're constrained to the layout and intensity by potential of what's given to you. some pre-kinds do no longer supply sufficient room in case you will desire fish and vegetation and ornamental freatures like rocks. My opinion is to place a pond in with a liner. I somewhat have build some and it grants greater freedom to create. I make certain I somewhat have the pond deep adequate. in case you will desire a water lily, some desire to be put in 2 ft of water. in case you will desire fish and desire to over wintry climate them interior the water, they ought to have a minimum of two a million/2 ft of water (nevertheless I deliver mine in during the wintry climate in a tank I somewhat have interior). I additionally desire to have some shallow areas in my pond. Birds can bathe and drink the water and that they seem to be a good allure to the pond. reckoning on the dimensions of the pond, you should make certain you have a huge adequate pump and filter out equipment. To small of the two, and your pond will seem undesirable. One pond I put in did no longer have a filter out equipment in it and that i had a lot of alge and the pond grew to become into merely a multitude. I put in a filter out the subsequent 3 hundred and sixty 5 days and it grew to become into an incredible purchase greater useful! putting in a 'liner' pond would fee a sprint a sprint greater and be a sprint greater paintings, yet think of that's somewhat worth it. this way you're unlike every person else that has there little 'insert' pond.

Q:I have a 1996 Volvo 960, wagon. I need to replace the steering and water pump on my wagon, and I am wondering if any how can give me instructions on how to do so...: first okorder top of page says do it yourself click that type in your info and look up price place nearest and get a how to replace info as well stil i think it unlikely both are bad at same time and more likely a belt

Q:How to design its control circuit, to prevent it idling, what peripheral equipment do you need?: The centrifugal pump can not be idle, idle will wear packing (packing seal, mechanical seal is almost not damaged) parts, also caused the seal ring, seal, etc. the balance disc wear quickly, and the temperature will rise sharply, causing damage; air transfer effects caused by transient overload voltage of the motor is large, if the motor can not automatically jump to motor will burn.Centrifugal pump mostly rely on the delivery of liquid lubrication and cooling seal of centrifugal pump, idling is empty load, is to open the inlet valve, close the exit valve operation can move, try reversing or empty load operation should be based on the inevitable time, pump specification shall prevail.

Q:I need instructions: it really depends on your make and model. different makes and models have different locations for them and what not. the best thing to do is buy a repair manual for your specific vehicle.

Q:Had my car in to the shop this morning, it's a 2000 Ford Escort ZX2. The water pump and radiator need to be replaced, and they said they can do it for $380. Is this a reasonable price? Also, if I don't get them fixed right away, am I risking a lot of permanent damage to the engine?: If that includes labor rates, then that is a heck of a deal. But as far as causing any damage by delaying this repair, not really, just when the water pump fails and your car overheats. The radiator is probably just leaking and as long as you keep fluid in it, then you are fine.

Q:Building installation problems, beginners, many problems need to be solved, thank you!: 3, sewage pump flow per hour 40 square water head 15 meters, 1600 rpm, with power 4KW

Q:I have replaced the presure switch on my water pump but it switches on and off when it is building up presure instead on staying on until it gets to right presure.Any ideas of what is causing this?: This can get sticky, so pay attention and keep up. Every well system has to have a pump and a resevoir tank. The older style tanks used the air that gets trapped in the top of the tank and compressed, to push the water back out when you opened a tap. However, over time water and air will mix together a little at a time until there's very little or no air left at the top to compress, and we all know that you can't compress water, so when that happens, the pump starts up, the pressure switch realizes that the pressure is instantly at the shutoff point and shuts back down, sometimes over and over in an almost self perpetuating cycle, until you shut the power off. With the advent of the new bladder tanks, where the rubber bladder installed in the center of the tank keeps the air on top at a certain pressure and the water coming in the bottom away from mixing with the air, these problems pretty much go away, until the bladder breaks and allows water to flow up into the top area. Then you have a very expensive old style resevoir tank, with the same old waterlogged problems. If you have either of these types of systems then you can remedy the situation for a short time at least, by completely draining the tank with the pump off and then shut all the valves above and refill the tank, allowing the water to pressurize the air. If you have the bladder tank and it's acting that way, then you may want to replace it, or just use it as is. You can always pressurize it from the top and drain it by putting enough air in it to blow all the water out and then start over.

Q:could you explain the process by which water is pumped out of the ground for purposed such as drinking water or irrigation? Can you put it in terms a high school senior would understand?: (1) Identify your potential water source through various methods. (2) Drill a small exploratory hole to different depths, test water pressure and water quality. (3) Drill the complete borehole for production and retrieval of the groundwater. (4) Complete the physical well, will a sheath to allow in the water at the wanted levels, solid pluge to keep other levels out. (5) Insert a chemical and physical filter system (small screen membranes, activate charcoal and diatomaceous earth, etc.) (6) Put in the submersible pump and plug it in. (7) The pump is made up of a motor, an intake and a centrifugal pump. It's all sealed so no water can penetrate through. The water is suctioned into the centrifugal pump, which is an impeller type device. The water is then pushed out at a much higher pressure rate than it came in. This is how the pump works from the bottom instead of above ground. The water is sent to the pressure tank, sometimes referred to as a holding tank, and is kept at a constant pressure, so when you turn on your faucet or shower, the water comes out quickly. As you use the water, more water is pumped into the tank and as the pressure drops in the tank, it will automatically come on and pressurize again.

Q:What is the difference between self-priming and non self suction?: Non self suction is the ordinary water pump for the water inlet pipe, but the flow of water is small,Self suction for the water inlet no water (that is, 4, 5 floor water, no water on the 6 floor), it uses the principle of negative pressure to suck up the water

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