• WQ Non-clogging Sewage Submersible Pump Cast Iron Pump System 1
  • WQ Non-clogging Sewage Submersible Pump Cast Iron Pump System 2
  • WQ Non-clogging Sewage Submersible Pump Cast Iron Pump System 3
WQ Non-clogging Sewage Submersible Pump Cast Iron Pump

WQ Non-clogging Sewage Submersible Pump Cast Iron Pump

Ref Price:
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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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 Application:
Agriculture, domestic wastewater, septic tank, mine, building construction, etc.


Service Conditions:
1. Submersion depth: 5m.
2. Liquid temperature up to +40°C.
3. Passage of suspended solid up to 55m.


Product Introduction:
WQ Non-clogging Sewage Submersible Pump Cast Iron Pump is composed of motor, water pump, seal. With volute impeller structure, the water pump is under the single or three phase asynchronous motor. Mechanical seal is used as motive seal between motor and pump, and oil resisting rubber O ring works as the static seal for the rabbet. Because of single or double channel, flow gap is big, then the discharge capacity of the pump is improved.

 

Performance Data:

 

MODELRATED Q (m3/h)RATED H (m)RATED POWER (kW)RATED POWER (kW)SPEED (rpm)OUTLET DIA. (mm)
WQ100-25-1110025113801450100
WQ180-11-1118011113801450150
WQ300-7-113007113801450200
WQ100-30-1510030153801450100
WQ180-15-1518015153801450150
WQ250-11-1525011153801450200
WQ100-35-18.5100353801450100100
WQ180-20-18.5180203801450150150
WQ250-15-18.5250153801450200200
WQ100-40-22100403801450100100
WQ200-22-22200223801450150150
WQ250-18-22250183801450200200
WQ400-10-22400103801450250250
WQ180-30-30180303801450150150
WQ250-22-30250223801450200200
WQ600-9-3060093801450250250
WQ180-37-37180373801450150150
WQ350-25-37350253801450200200
WQ600-12-37600123801450250250
WQ180-45-45180453801450150150
WQ400-30-45400303801450200200
WQ600-15-45600153801450250250
WQ800-12-45800123801450300300
WQ250-50-55250503801450150150
WQ300-40-55300403801450200200
WQ600-20-55600203801450250250
WQ800-15-55800153801450300300
WQ200-60-75200603801450150150
WQ300-48-75300483801450200200
WQ600-25-75600253801450250250
WQ800-20-75800203801450300300
WQ1300-12-751300123801450350350
WQ200-75-90200753801450150150
WQ300-55-90300553801450200200
WQ600-30-90600303801450250250
WQ800-25-90800253801450300300
WQ1500-15-901500153801450350350

Q:If a submersible pump to shake the insulation, water pump distance more than 20 meters away from the cable distribution box is fixed, at this time to shake the insulation in the distance distribution box can only shake, disconnect the power cable is connected with the shake table, the ground end is connected with the distribution box in such a shake, I want to ask is, what is this shake is not the pump shell must be reliable grounding to shake ah? Now the pump casing is not grounded, just immersed in water, immersed in the water, is not equal to good grounding ah?
A submersible pump to shake the insulation, water pump distance more than 20 meters away from the cable distribution box is fixed, at this time to shake the insulation in the distance distribution box can only shake, disconnect the power cable is connected with the shake table, the ground end is connected with the electric box so that the pump shell shake shake, also must be reliable grounding to shake to now, the pump shell grounding not only in the water, it must be a wire connected with a shell or a wire will be immersed in water, this is right insulating shake,
Q:I have a 1999 Volkswagen Passat and the water pump seems to be leaking. The lower radiator hose has been replaced but it still leaks a fairly substantial amount. From what I can tell the pump is still doing its job but I'm losing coolant. Is there a way I can determine if i just need a new gasket or a new pump altogether without ripping the front end off? Any feedback is appreciated.
Before you go to replace anything, you must find and repair the source of the leak. See radiator pressure test video below:
Q:I'm not talking about for a car. Just the standard water pump for you house. Ours won't click on when it's supposed to. First we had to hit the tank itself, and now we have to tap the box on top (I'm assuming some sort of fuse box as there are wires coming out of it). It's getting ridiculous and I'm just ready to buy a new one, but I'm not sure where all you can buy one.
Lowe's Home Depot etc. The question is why in the world are you messing with a connection junction box (ie; electricity) and water when there are professionals out there to do the troubleshooting for you.... heck maybe even save you money in the long run. It may not be the pump, but a short in the electrical.
Q:How do you measure and analyse the pump characteristics and efficiency?
you can ask the question to a motor company
Q:I want to replace a water pump for my friend. I can't find any books on this car. I'm not sure how to replace this pump. Looking at new water pumps there lookes like 10 bolts, but on my chevy truck there was only 4. I don't know if all holes take a bolt or not, or if I need to take something out before I take the water pump out.Anyone ever changed a water pump on this car? or know what book or website I can look at which will give me an idea.
autozones web site has some good instructions on most popular cars
Q:I have a slight idea but I would like to see what steps other people have taken. I have a 1992 ford escort that needs a new water pump, what steps have you taken to replace it?
if you're going to do it yourself first I recommend getting the book for the car sometimes the library will have them..you also want to be careful when changing the water pump because your timing belt is hooked up to the water pump. If you misalign the camshaft or the crankshaft pulleys or turn them independently when the belt is off you can cause damage to the head of the engine (very important: your timing will be off..you don't want that). To start with though, you will have to take off your accessory belt and the accessory crank pulley, then take off the timing belt cover and use the crank shaft pulley to line up the marks that are on the pulley and the engine (on both the crankshaft pulley and the cam shaft pulley) carefully take the timing belt off (replace the timing belt and the timing belt tensioner..trust me it'll be worth it). You're going to have to drain the antifreeze before you take the water pump off. (I would also replace the thermostat because its cheap and you already have the fluid out) The install is pretty much the opposite. (again make sure the marks line up on the cam and crank pulleys and don't turn them independently when you're putting the belt back on) (short answer: get the book and/or have someone that's done it before help) when your done you can say you did it :)
Q:Which professional friends ask, I encountered a problem in the design of fire pump head 90 meters, flow rate is 20/S, power is 37KW, but the construction side to buy the pump head and flow are achieved, but the power is only 30KW, this relationship? If you can, let me know by the way, thank you
The flow is 20 L/S! Q = 20, L/S = 0.02 m^3/SThe total efficiency of the pump and the motor is estimated to be 60%P=pgHQ/n=1000*9.8*90*0.02/60%=29400W= 29.4, KWLook at the water pump motor power 30KW just enough from the calculation, but there is no room for the use of the attention do not overload!(Note: motor power matching pump nameplate are generally too large, room.)
Q:What are the parameters of the pump price?
With the flow and head related, the greater the flow rate, the higher the head, the greater the power, the higher the price.
Q:Today I see the saying that if your pipe diameter has been selected, then the pipe diameter on the pipe diameter should be smaller. I don't know why
The size is only a matter of convenience or experience, and a small number of tubes are already available. As long as you can pick it up, you can use it.The so-called thick pipe to reduce resistance is a certain relationship. But it shouldn't be your decision to choose the big one. Then why don't you choose the big three? Four or the thicker ones?! @! The resistance will be smaller!!!!- - - - - - - - - - - - - - layman; look at the knowledge of fluid mechanics!!!The question is a conclusion, explain why not one or two words, learn the knowledge of fluid mechanics to know why -- try to answer it, that is to improve the water pump outlet total pressure head, intuitive feeling is to have enough pressure to pump out the water pressure. As for the big three or four, it is necessary to ensure that the flow velocity in the pipe is more uniform, otherwise the flow near the pipe wall will flow or flow too slowly due to viscous action.
Q:my car ran hot a few times, its a 2006 chevy impala LS with about 50k miles.I do alot of driving but never had a problem until now. I took it to get an oil change and they said that I need a new water pump. I really dont know what that means but im afraid to drive my car until i get a new pump. i called around a few auto places and no one has the part. I called the chevy dealer and they said part and labor is $600. any suggestions of other places i can check for the part? can i still drive my car in the mean time? is it safe?are water pumps usually that expensive?
2006 Chevy Impala Water Pump

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