Q:I want to know how to start up a water pump so i can move up to my camp.

There's a few different kinds of water pumps. If you're referring to a hand-pumped well water pump that doesn't work, then it's generally lost it's prime. Some well pumps are constructed so you pour a quart or so of water into the pump and stroke the handle up and down until the water rises in the well. Other kinds of well pumps you have to take the hand pump off and pour a bucket of water into the well hole. It just depends on what kind of water pump you have.

Q:I brought my car to a shop because I get no heat. The mechanic diagnosed my car as having a blown gasket head because there were hydrocarbons in my coolant. The repair cost was too high, so a I figured I'd just run the car until it broke on me. A month later I see it overheating on the way to work and a month after that it completely powers down (electrically) while I'm driving and I see a lot of white smoke (coolant was all over the engine). After it's had time to cool down I can start it up just fine. I pour coolant in and it comes right back out the bottom of the water pump.Could a bad water pump have been the reason for the hydrocarbons and no heat in the first place? Could it have caused the appearance of hydrocarbons in my coolant? If the head gasket is blown and this is just a symptom, is it cost effective to replace the water pump or will it just break on me again in a short time?

leaky water pump would cause overheating. *overheating* would cause a chamber gasket sealing issue. so it's not the pump that caused the coolant to fail the contamination test. it's collateral damage to chamber sealing caused by the overheat condition as a result of a bad water pump. the real Q here is the type of engine. we've no idea what that is or the yr/make/model of the platform. some engines have oil and coolant passages on the intake manifold. even if those passages are blind. so in the end, it could be an intake or head gasket that took a hit after the overheat condition. -------- cost effective to fix? couldn't tell ya. that would be determinded by the condition/value of the platform, and what all took collateral damage and cost of what needs to be done. since there's no vehicle or engine info, that can only be determined by you and a diagnostic tech of your choosing.

Q:I have a 1997 ford ranger, during last week i noticed that the temperature started to go up, i noticed that the coolant recovery tank was empty so i added coolant and it fixed the problem, but a day later i noticed that the tank was empty again since it started to overheat again. This time i let the engine cool off and checked the radiator water levels and noticed it was dry with no water, so i added water and noticed that i was leaking from what it seems the water pump (im guessing its the water pump because is behind the engine fan, behind the belts, its hard to see), Does anyone have a possible explanation or suggestion of what i should do? Thank you i would really appreciate it.

Hopefully you didn't run it to long while it was overheating. Your going to have to replace the waterpump from your discription it sounds like it's bad. It's not a hard job to do if your mechanically inclined. If not buy the repair manual to do it yourself or pay a professional.

Q:I have a leak on the front of the engine by the timing belt housing coming out of a small hole by the alternator. I assume it is a leaking water pump. How do to go about changing the water pump?Short clip of actual leak coming from the hole by the alternator and under the timing belt housing

water pump is timing belt driven, so you have to pull all of the belts off, the timing belt cover and that belt also. if that belt has not been replaced in 80,000 miles. you want to do that. i had a 93 civic and a 90 civic that i did the belt and pump in at 230,000 miles. it takes a little time but it is not that bad. the harmonic balancer has to come off for the timing belt also.

Q:Water pump part is stainless steel, which part is it?

The part of the pump head, that is, the part of the flow

Q:I have a 94 Mazda b2300 it was working great last week then all the sudden it started making a knocking sound and started to overheat! Its still drivable but it overheats if i go far! A friend told me it can be the Water Pump so i put a new one, I was told it can be the Thermostat so i had a new one put in. It worked for awhile but began overheating again. My truck is my livelihood so its important i get it fixed! I cant afford a mechanic but just asking to see if anyone knows what it could possibly be? It catches good and the engine sounds strong but it keeps overheating!

Have the radiator wiped clean out. My Mazda truck radiator did a similar ingredient, and that i trust that you've a similar difficulty. in the experience that they could't clean it on the radiator shop, you're able to replace it.

Q:i hear water swirl in my dash board when i take off and when i reverse, i heard its the water pump pushing water through the heater core, but how can i fix it.?

The issue is not just that the water pump is pumping air through the system, it is that there is an issue with air being in there in the first place. It gets there one of two ways. First, your cooling system is losing water somewhere and air is getting drawn in through the coolant overflow bottle or through a leak in the hoses, the radiator, or the radiator cap. Second it is getting in through a compression leak. Compression leaks are caused by blown head gaskets or cracked or corroded cylinder heads or engine blocks. You need to determine which it is, because you need to address the issues differently. Fill the cooling system with coolant, purge the air out of it, and connect a pressure gauge to the radiator where the cap normally goes. Start the engine. If the gauge fluctuates up and down, you have a compression leak caused by a blown head gasket or crack in the block or head. If the gauge doesn't fluctuate, you have a leak in the cooling system that could be in any one of many places, such as hoses, caps, freeze plugs, the radiator itself, the heater core, or one of many gaskets. If it turns out to be a compression leak, you need to pull off the heads and replace the gaskets, and if there is any corrosion or cracks, you need to either replace or repair the heads. Broken head bolts can also allow compression leaks, so if you do remove the heads, you need to replace the bolts and torque them to the correct specs. If your engine oil looks frothy, like latte, this is another sign that you have a blown head gasket. It means coolant is getting into the engine oil. If it is a leak in the cooling system that is not related to the head gasket, you need to find it and seal it. There is no other way to find out exactly what is allowing air into your cooling system other than these two methods. The sound you hear when water is flowing through your heater core is actually the air gurgling through. No air, no sound.

Q:I went to have my car inspected for a leak at a friendly garage I know. They said I need a new water pump and in the mean time just keep the levels always checked and filled. Is it safe to drive for a while or can the pump totally fail and overheat the engine. As far as I know it's just leaking at this stage, the pulley and belts are fine.

Yes it could fail and end up doing more damage then just fixing it now.Pay now or pay more later if something happens.

Q:i replace all the seals on the water pump reinstalled it and the same thing happened... it leaks out the bottom some where and run down the water pump and down the hot side radiator hose... any ideas?

you reinstalled the old pump? most water pump area leaks are the water pump itself. it will have a small hole located near where the lower hose hooks up, that hole is called the weep hole. when a pump begins failing it begins weeping. a water pump for that vehicle is only about $30. so cheap you should never even think of reusing the old pump if you remove it for any reason. you'll need to replace teh gasket, again, and you'll want to use blue rtv high temp silicone lightly on the gasket.

Q:mechanic says the bearings are going on the pump, and they might as well replace the thermostat while they are there.my question is he right?do they have to remove the engine to replace either the pump or the thermostat?seems like a lot of $ for a what should be a simple job ($450).thanks for your help!

Sounds like you really either need to ask the mechanic how much would just the water pump and repair labour bill cost you with the thermostat.I really don't think the extra costs are worth it if such a high bill. One thing you can do is call around on the price of a new pump and then call or check around to find out what a mechanic will charge you just in labour fees and decide from there. Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way I doubt changing the pump would take any mechanic much longer then 45 to 90 mins to replace especially if they have the right speciality tools.So I'd also check out while comparison shopping the prices on the thermostat but if you do change it I'd install an anti-stick thermostat in it for sure.