Hot Water Submersible Pump

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Model description

For example: AT200QJR80-170/10

The 200 representation suitable well diameter of not less than 200 mm (if used in pools, lakes,such as the coal mine environment do not take into account, as the case may be to add dome <simulation wellbore >).

Q said the diving (in Chinese pinyin initials); J said well (in Chinese pinyin initials). R says hot water (in Chinese pinyin initials)

80 traffic is 80m3/h; 170 said that the head is 170m; /10 represents the 10 stage impeller series.

The scope of application

Applicable to enterprises and institutions such as: bath center, district heating, geothermalenergy power generation enterprises to use, high temperature hot water, hot water extraction ofthe underground GEO, according to different borehole diameter we have different specificationsfor the user to choose. The equipment, low noise, high efficiency electric energy saving.

Technical parameters:

1: the allowable working temperature range: +5 to +105 DEG C

2: solid impurities content (mass ratio) of not more than 0.01%

3: pH value (PH) 6.5-8.5

4: hydrogen sulfide content is not more than 1.5mg/L

5: the content of chlorine ion is not greater than 400mg/L

6: unit must complete submersion in water works. Vertical type, select the model when theborehole diameter and the pump model to match the diameter of hole, avoid large diameter with small diameter of the pump, and it is not good for motor cooling.

Motor parameters

Submersible motor cable length: 3m. If users need guide cable lengthening can call us in advance, submersible motor for water lubrication, must give the motor cavity is filled with clean water before use, (Note: be sure to fill or will reduce the electrical service life) if you forget towater would quickly burn out the motor.

Motor protection grade: IPX8

Electromagnetic wire using high temperature cable.

Power Supply

380V, the deviation of not more than plus or minus 5%, the frequency of 50HZ, the deviation of not more than plus or minus 1%, if customers need special voltage or special frequency need toinform us in advance.

Material Science

Impeller: cast iron HT200, or tin bronze (all grades) such as: ZCuSn3Zn8Pb6Ni1, stainless steel 304, stainless steel 316, endlessly steel 316L material

The pump casing: cast iron or stainless steel HT200, such as: 2Gr13.304316.316L

Pump shaft: cold drawn steel chrome plated or stainless steel, 2Gr13 (1050 DEG C, quenching and tempering, strengthen torque)

The motor seal: rubber sealing O ring; sealing machine.

Motor adjusting sac expansion rubber material.

Equipment advantages

--1: ensure the on-site installation fast and reliable in the elaborate assembly factory

--2: uses a single stage or multistage impeller impeller series, low noise. Good performance of temperature, long life.

The --3: unit can complete submersion in water work, avoid the vacuum pump easily into the air is not good for malpractice,

The scope of supply:

Hot water submersible pump units (including the pump and the submersible motors of two parts),a water outlet flange pair a, 12 * 60 bolt 6. Or the configuration corresponding water outlet(convenient user inserted hose installation), use and maintenance instructions 1, certificate 1 copies of packing list in 1 copies, wooden box packaging.

The appearance of color:

General color (customer request): phthalocyanine blue (chlorinated rubber paint) suitable for spraying work in the general non corrosive water unit.

Anticorrosion coating:

If used in high temperature corrosion time: the first can change the casting materials such asstainless steel, bronze, second: if the corrosion is not particularly serious can brush anti-corrosive coating epoxy paint, brush anti-corrosive coating can increase the service life of unit.

Installation method: vertical installation (special circumstances can be used for horizontalinstallation, horizontal installation service life is vertical installation service life 60%, pleasepurchase description).

双语对照


Q:Had a water pump start leaking, when I replaced it with a new one, it leaked even worse (around the gasket and O rings this time). The process I took...I unbolted everything and removed the water pumpI scrapped everything off with a wire brushI coated both sides of the gasket with red gasket siliconI mounted the new one and bolted it down tightening in a cross pattern(kinda difficult to get everything lined up)It leaked real bad the first time so I loosened the bolts and played with the top rubber seal to make it seat better.It leaked a little less the second time... but still WAY too much.I completely removed it the third time and (totally distroying the gasket) gooped it up with gasket sealer again, along with the O rings and tried again... leaked worse.Considering options... go with a white or black high heat siliconPossibly just using the sealer with NO gasketGooping the HECK out of it with JB-weld and pray!Suggestions?Know what I did wrong here?
Two questions 1) Did you buy a new gasket? 2) Did you let the sealant set long enough? If you answered yes to both of these than the only thing left is to make sure you have the right type of sealant. Is it the waterproof stuff for waterpumps? You mentioned the stuff was red, it's been a couple of years since I changed a waterpump but I believe it was the BLUE stuff that I needed. But I could be wrong. Take it apart. Make sure it's clean (you can use a wire brush but I find a paint scraper works better) and apply the new gasket to the new water pump then but the whole thing back on the engine. Star pattern tightening the bolts. Test it without putting the clutch fan (I think this still has one) back on just to see if it's leaking. Hope that helps.
Q:Water pump "rated lift: 6m" what do you mean?
Popularly speaking, "lift head" is the ability of water pump to lift water. 6m means that the pump can pump water to the height of 6m.
Q:I need a water pump gasket for my mustang water pump.What can I use if I have no gasket material?
I wouldn't use anything except what was required for that pump installation because I wouldn't want to have to go back and do the whole job a second time if the pump leaks around the gasket area. A new gasket should come with a new pump. If not go back to a quality auto parts store and get a gasket. I'm not sure I'd trust the squeeze on gasket silicone in place of a gasket and I'd get Permatex gasket sealer to use with the new gasket on all surfaces before I reinstalled the pump. It's worth taking your time to do it right. Make sure there's no antifreeze coolant oozing onto the metal sealing surfaces, because the gasket won't seal unless the surfaces are clean and dry (been there, done that).
Q:i have a 1990 honda accord, 2.2l 5 spd standard, and my water pump went on it, and i was wonder if there is a diagram out there somere on how to replace it or how to take it out, cuz it is in the most stupidest spot ever, if you know were i could find a diagram on how to do so could you please help me?
the best place to find the image that you are looking for is in a repair manual for that car. i know that it is in a bad place, but it cab be a little easier if you go by the book.
Q:I bought a new water pump for my 89 S10 Blazer with the 4.3 V6. The guy at Autozone wanted to know if I wanted a standard one or the heavy duty. I bought the heavy duty one because it was only $5.00 more. Are they just built stronger or do they actually move more water?
Mistake #1. Auto Zone doesn't stock anything close to the quality as an OEM part. If you want a better than average OEM water-pump get an aluminum Stewart Stage 1, 2, 3 or 4. The impeller builds more engine and cylinder head coolant pressure which prevets steam pockets in the heads. Little does Jason know that not all water-pumps created equal.
Q:Could this be a result of a bad water pump.
Possible head gasket or warped head. The water is getting out to the water jacket and into the top of the piston. Some water coming out of the exhuast is normal. It would not be a water pump.
Q:I have had this water pump changed 2 times in 5 years is this normal for this car? It has a v6 motor.
1. Remove any radiator shroud, or any cowl obstructing the fan, radiator, and water pump. 2. using a pair of large pliers, take off the clamp on the lower radiator hose at the water pump and drain the coolant into a container. Make sure the motor is COLD, room temp, when you do this. 3. Remove the other hose. 4. Remove the cooling fan using an air hammer or a large adjustable wrench. This part is tricky, unless your fan is bolted on with 10 mm bolts, then you lucked out. 5. For step 4, leave the belt on, it will make it easier to remove the fan. 6. If you have a V-8 LT-1, then you have 4 13 mm bolts. Be careful not to damage your distributor which sits under the pump (nice design GM) 7. Using a razor blade, remove any gasket on the inlet and outlet on the block. 8. Apply a thin layer of gasket sealer on the gaskets for the new pump. 9. Install the pump, and its bolts. Use locktite if you have some on the bolts, medium strength. Tighten the bolts to about 90 in/lbs 10. install the pully, and fan. (again, tricky) 11. Install the belt. 12. put lower radiator hose back on (leave off upper) 13. pour 1/2 a bottle of Dex-cool coolant in the radiator 14. fill bottle up with 1/2 water, 1/2 coolant, and pour it into the reservoir. 15. If necessary, get new bottle of coolant, and pour it into the UPPER RADIATOR HOSE, this will help bleed air out of the system. 16. keep filling upper hose, and radiator until it stops bubbling down and basically overflows. 17. install upper hose. 18. make sure the radiator is full and system has no air pockets. Check to see if the upper radiator hose inlet has a bleeder valve. If it does, use a pair of pliers and open it, and watch coolant in radiator drop, then fillit up again. The V-6 has one, not sure about V-8. 19. put radiator cap on, and resevoir cap. 20. run motor, check for any leaks. 21. drive, if vehicle is overheating and there are no leaks, there is still air in the system. Wait till it cools down and bleed air again.
Q:how do get the tub off the washine machine to fix the water pump?
its under the machine
Q:I could get a 1994 Camaro, v6, no rust, automatic, excellent condition for $1200. THe ony thing is that it needs a water pump. Is it worth the buy? How much other damage could have been done with the water pump damaged? and how hard is it to replace the water pump?
Fairly simple to swap out the pump, my questing is why did it go bad? How long was it driven without water cerculating in the block? Are the heads warped from overheating? I guess if you wanna take a chance and it goes good, you made out. Myself I dont think Camaros, Mustangs or any other sportscar should have a 6 cylinder. If your going to revamp the looks and style of it thats fine, but dont take away the V8
Q:Leaks right under the water pumpOf my truck ford f-150
This could be a leaky gasket or the pump bearing and seal is defective. Gasket: Drain the antifreeze from your system. Remove the pump and clean both surfaces. Install a new gasket with proper compound and re install pump. You will have to top up your antifreeze properly. Defective seal/bearing Replace the water pump. Some auto parts stores will take your old pump back on exchange. the amount of money credited to you is not much but it keep the old water pump out of the landfills.

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