• Stainless Steel Submersible Pump System 1
Stainless Steel Submersible Pump

Stainless Steel Submersible Pump

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
99 units unit/month

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Application:

It is suitable for offshore platform fire-fighting, thermal dissipation, seawater desalinization, seawater lifting, coastal square fountain, mariculture and attemperation as ground source heat pump in coastal area. It also can lift underground drinking water and mineral water,etc.

Material:

QH series stainless steel submersible pump has several kinds of material.

Seawater and strongly corrosive medium: austenitic stainless steel 316, 316L, tin bronze,etc.

Moderately corrosive medium: austenitic stainless steel 304,etc.

Advantages:

CNC lathe precision machining ensures parallelism and perpendicularity of all the castings.

With rigorous testing, well installation and full load performance test, you can feel easy to use it.

Some of our products manufactured by introducing the Germany Ritz technology, improving the pump’s efficiency and making it more energy-saving & environment-friendly.

Motor parameter:

The motor is accord with GB/T2818-2002 pump industry standard, and it is lubricated by water. The motor must be filled with water. The standard length of the extended cable is 3m.

If you need special requirement, we can extend its length. The working temperature should be a little higher than that of common motor because of its poor magnetic conductivity.

Power:

The general power specification we supply you:380v/50Hz±5. We also can provide customised specifications at your requirements. The variation of voltage and frequency ratings and its influence on motor performance and temperature should meet the requirements of GB755(National Standard)

Notes:

We can provide you the suitable products if the actual working condition, the voltage or the frequency are not consistent with above specifications.

Working condition:

The motor should be submerged into water with the depth no more than 70m;

Water temperature: 20

Solid content (mass ratio): ≤0.01%

Refer to the technical agreement to learn more parameters.


Q: We're doing some droplet impact experiments and are creating the flow of water to our droplet generators by elevating our source of water. Unfortunately as the water depletes the pressure changes. We need to siphon off the water from our lower basin where the water collects and pump it back up to the source (around 6-8 feet up). What kind of pump do I need for this?
Your question could be responded in some steps the 1st step is you're able to create electric power- to try this you'll choose for a small generator/alternator to create AC power. The generator/alternator has 2 important factors- the 1st being coils of twine and the 2d being magnets on the subject of an enter shaft which spin on a similar time as the enter shaft spins(which will then hook up with a waterwheel). The coils of twine are arranged exterior of the circumference of the region the magnets spin. The magnets each and each and each and each have their very own magnetic field and since the magnetic field passes with the help of the coils an electric powered impulse is made.those electric powered impulses are reported as AC power(alternating present day-day). staring on the size of the water wheel you're able to might desire to apply a transformer to step down the potential if it improve into too extreme. the subsequent step could be to prepare an AC to DC (direct present day-day) converter so as that the electrical powered power might possibly be utilized with the help of your motor. An AC to DC converter makes use of diodes and arranges them to create a + and - can charge. After the AC to DC converter, you're able to basically connect the unfavorable and useful terminals to the corresponding ones on the motor. in case you have any questions, please be happy to earnings throughout the time of the links decrease than or seek for youtube for movies on how electric powered generators, transformers and autos paintings.
Q: Ac was working fine before the mechanic replaced the water pump. Now the AC only blows hot air. Is this related?
i used some product i've got been given at checker vehicle areas to fix a head gasket that grew to become into blown into the coolant device. that they had some distinctive types, some properly suited with coolant, some not. i've got been given the stuff that grew to become into properly suited with coolant. i'm very sceptical on stuff like this, in spite of if it has labored so a procedures. i paid like $30 for it. i grew to become into surprised
Q: I just replaced my starter on my mustang and i when i took it out for a test drive i noticed the engine temperature rising. i drove for maybe 2 minutes max and when i parked the car it had a small amount of white smoke coming out of the engine so i let it cool down, and when it cooled down i checked the radiator, it had absolutely no anti-freeze, which is weird because i had just put a gallon of 50-50 anti-freeze maybe a week ago. So to test it i put 3 cups of water in the radiator turned her on and water was spilling from the water pump. So me and my dad have concluded we have to replace the water pump. I called up Autozone and they have a water pump replacement kit for $70. We don't have money too pay for the labor so can some1 please give me a step by step guide to replacing the water pump.
Drain the engine cooling system. Remove the air cleaner outlet pipe. Loosen water pump pulley bolts. Remove the accessory drive belt. Remove the water pump pulley. Remove the upper and lower radiator hose. Remove the heater hose. Remove the 12 attaching bolt and remove the water pump. Clean and inspect gasket mating surfaces. To install: Install the water pump. Use a new gasket and tighten the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm). Install the heater hose. Install the upper and lower radiator hose. Install the water pump pulley. Install the accessory drive belt. Install water pump pulley bolts. Install the air cleaner outlet pipe. Fill the cooling system. Start the engine and check for coolant leaks.
Q: What are the parameters of the pump price?
First, the brand, brand sound, the price needless to say, second, material, stainless steel and cast iron, of course, not the same priceThird, the size of the motor, the motor determines the parameters of the pump, not motor power, and also imports and domestic.
Q: My water stopped working and my tank emptied. I replaced the pressure switch and the gauge. It still didn't work. The well is about 110'. I pulled the pump and replaced it (1/2 HP, 10 gpm, 2-wire). It still doesn't work. The old pump was 15 years old. The one before only lasted 7 years. The water has a lot of sediment. I have never done this before, but it seemed straightforward enough. The wires on the pump were not differentiated in any way (same color). Could I have put the wires together incorrectly? Could I have put the switch in wrong? It doesn't click on when the breaker is turned on. What else could be wrong? Could the breaker be bad? It wasn't kicked out.
A two wire pump usually has a 120 volt motor. The neutral wire from the motor goes to the neutral wire at the disconnect switch. The other wire from the motor goes to one terminal screw of the pressure switch. The disconnect switch hot wire goes to the terminal screw right next to the first one. ( either the two terminals on the left or the two on the right. ) Sometimes people will switch the neutral wire as well. If the voltage is good, pressure switch contacts are clean - like no bugs having been smashed or caught up in between, then you might expect a break in the wire or the wire splice at the motor wire connection. If your old pump burned out you may have needed new wire also. Sometimes the wire will burn apart inside the insulation and make a bubble. If your old wire was in good shape, or you replaced it, you should have used a submersible splice to connect to the motor wires. Crimp on wire connectors should be crimped tight. Every now and then I find one that didn't get crimped on one side. Rubber tape followed by plastic tape over that splice is good. Some people like the plastic tubes with compression ends for a splice covering.
Q: my water is frozen from pump to faucets,do i thaw from pump to faucet ,or faucet to pump?
open faucet nearest pump, use hair dryer on line from faucet to pump. Of course you need better insulation, but you can leave a faucet drip to help keep the line from freezing up until then.
Q: Okay so we have a water pump outside instead of city water. A few days ago we noticed that it would turn off like always once the tank was full but then just would never turn back on. It was odd to us since it would always turn on and off at appropriate times. Now its on maybe 10 seconds and it shuts off. I took off one of the clear hoses it has and notices a green ooze inside it. I cleaned out the ooze and tapped some of the pipes in hopes of some more of it coming out. Since we have had a leak there is green stuff which i am guessing is lime, on the side of the tank. I'm also guessing this must bee the green ooze. What should I do? Now there is no water whatsoever being pumped and the time it does turn on very little water passes through. To me it sounds like something is blocking the pipes but if I pay hundreds for someone to come replace the pipes and check out the motor I dont want to end up with this problem again. If anyone has any information as to helping me I would so greatly appreciate it.
do you have shallow or deep well its the middle of summer the well could be dry you might have lost your prime on your pump there will be a bolt for priming take bolt out pour water in to hole untill full restart pump if pump doesnt fill up you might a stuck foot valve.
Q: i drove up a hill which was about a mile and when i got up the hill i drove anther half a mile to my location and as soon as i tuned my car off i notice coolant leak for the reservoir tank and being dumb i took the cap off off and i think you know so i drove it home after letting it return to a lower temp and it didn't run hot it just raised 2 line above the middle marker and i ran it today just to idle and refilled the tank and let it run it didn't leak but the Serpentine belt made a noise not loud but noticeable (could this be a bad water pump and i flushed my radiator before they swapped engine out which was not long ago) the current engine is used and run fine with power and pep
Okay first off, run-on sentences are annoying. Second off, driving uphill makes the engine work harder, so of course its going to heat up more... especially being a 4 banger malibu. Those engines are sensitive to severe operating conditions.
Q: Okay, i have a 1997 dodge stratus with a 2.4l motor, recently i was out early in the morning when i heard what sounded like a loud whining noise, i quickly pulled over and killed the motor. Turns out the teeth were stripped off the timing belt and the water pump busted. How much would this cost to get it fixed, and what is the possibility the engine may be damaged? Also would it be worth fixing it, or just selling it for parts? Oh yeah, the car has 176k miles
yes its probably worth fixing ,you shouldn't have no engine damage to it because that one doesn't run an interference engine ,all that should have to be done is new pulleys and a water pump,and new timing belt kit put on it,all of this will cost around 3-400 bucks though for everything,but its probably worth repairing,you cant buy a good car for 400 bucks,and if it ran well before then it should be alright once you get it repaired,good luck with it i own on of those and their good cars.

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

Hot products


Hot Searches

Related keywords