• Vertical Mixed Flow Pump LX/LB/LT/LK Series System 1
Vertical Mixed Flow Pump LX/LB/LT/LK Series

Vertical Mixed Flow Pump LX/LB/LT/LK Series

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TT OR LC
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General Description
LX, LB, LT, LK Series vertical mixed flow pumps are widely used in handling circulating water in large scale power stations and nuclear power stations, metallurgy, water supply & drainage of municipal facilities and farmlands as well as mining drainage. They are provided for delivering clear water , rainwater, sewage and seawater below 55℃.
Performance range
Capacity Q:  0.20~25m3/h
Head   H:  3~60m
The pump of the above-mentioned range can be tested in our test center which is the largest in China.

Instruction of pump type
For example:80LK-20A / 80LB-20A / 80LX-20
80: Pump outlet diameter (inch)
L: Vertical mixed flow pump
T: Vertical mixed flow pump (impeller blades adjustable in operation)
K: Rotor can be pulled out
B: Rotor can not be pulled out
X: Outlet is under pump foundation  
S: Outlet is above pump foundation
20: Rate head
A: Impeller after cutting.

Structure
*The pump is vertically installed with the inlet vertical downward and the outlet horizontal extending.
*The rotor parts have pull-out mode and non-pull-out mode. The impeller blades of type T pump can be adjustable in operation.
*The pump installation has two choices. One is single foundation: the pump and the motor are connected directly and mounted on one concrete foundation; the other is double foundation: the pump and the motor are mounted on separate concrete foundation.
*The seal usually uses packing seal.
*The intake sump of the pump can be wet pit or dry pit.
*The axial thrust of the pump is usually carried by the motor, but small pumps usually carried by the pump itself.
*The impeller of the pump is usually one stage and it can be designed to be multistage as requirements.
*The bearings of the pump can be rubber bearings or Thordon bearings, when the rubber bearings are used, the shaft protected by a set of shaft sleeves with pressure clear water for lubrication.
Material of main parts
Shaft:  High-quality carbon steel.
Impeller:  Cast iron / Cast steel / Stainless steel.
Other parts:  Cast iron / welded steel plate.
Parts range
Pump, Motor, Foundation plate and Mounting resistant cushion.

Q: We have a private well with a 40 year old water pump that is rusting away, and sounds like a truck. It's a double jet well pump sitting on a tank, with a second tank to one side that it's also connected to (with a thick pipe). I don't quite understand why there are two tanks (there's a third which is obviously the hot water). I'm guessing one of these is to hold water, and the other to provide air pressure? In any case, the pump runs OK, it doesn't leak, and provides plenty of pressure. It is just unbelievably loud. I've been told that replacing the bearings might take care of this problem, but seeing how the tank the pump rests upon (with a thin tube connecting it to the pump) is rotting away, and the system is older than I am, should I just replace the whole thing?
I would replace the whole unit,for one if it was to go bad you are going to have water everywhere,and also the new one will be smaller and more energy effecient.
Q: Ok, if my intake manifold wasnt mess up and it could be my water pump would I still smell a syrup odor and WHY would it be leaking green antifreeze? especially when the antifreeze I use is orange?
Heck cowboy if thats a Chevy the intake manifold gasket and the water pump is both leakin'. Your coolant bottle has orange and the engine block has green and they have not mixed? If so you will need to get the same kind if antifreeze in both and flush all the old stuff out of both places. Clean new Dexcool orange will show up the leaks really fast. Sounds like you need to pressure test that truck partner.
Q: Ok, so I have a 1997 3.8 liter ford mustang. I was driving home from work the other day, when temp gauge started to go up. I brought it to mechanic, and he said it was a bad water pump, due to bad antifreeze. So I am getting a new pump, and an antifreeze flush. My question is that since it overheated, will there be any damage to the engine? The temperature gauge never hit the red, and smoke never came out. I had to drive it for approx 15-20 miles when it started to overheat, and the temp gauge was bouncing from hot to normal.
If its starts, runs and drives its probably ok. Sometimes the engine block can crack--- if so you might notice that you are loosing oil or antifreeze---- and/or they are mixing together inside the engine. Also, if you see a lot of white smoke coming from the tailpipe then you have a problem. Otherwise, even if it was overheated it should be fine as long as it wasn't driven for extended periods, over and over. Often what really causes damage to overheated vehicles is when people add cold water to an overheated engine, which can cause it to crack as well. The spark plugs probably got the worst of it... Change the spark plugs and your oil. Good luck and best regards.
Q: how can i put in a water pump for a1994 bonniville sse?
Simple. Open the trunk. Put the water pump inside. Close the trunk. Drive the car (or have it towed) to your local mechanic and ask him to install it for you. ;^)
Q: I'm only 18 and don't know much about cars, but my car was overheating so me and my boyfriend brought it to a mechanic.They told me it needs a new timing belt and water pump and that alone would be like 1450.. From my research that sounds like bullshit. By the way I drive a 2000 neon, is it THAT hard to work on, or am I being ripped off?
sounds like a lot of money also i am not sure that's the problem better get a second opinion
Q: can a water pump pumping out air instead of water?
# Water pumps are generally centrifugal pumps except few specific applications. #Centrifugal pump will not pump,untill and unless the the pump is properly primed [atleast ,casing upto impeller top should be fully submerged with water.] #Since the weight of water is approximately 8000 times that of air (50 miles vs. 34 feet or 80 Km. vs. 10 meters) the centrifugal pump can produce only 1/8000 of its rated liquid pressure. In other words, for every one foot water has to be raised to prime the pump, the centrifugal pump must produce a discharge head of approximately 8000 feet (each meter requires a head of 8000 meters) and that is impossible with conventional impeller diameters and speeds. *All of this means that if you intend to use a centrifugal pump you're going to have to come up with some sensible method of priming it. Your choices will include : *Install a foot valve in the suction piping to insure the liquid will not drain from the pump casing and suction piping when the pump stops. Keep in mind that these valves have a nasty habit of leaking. *Evacuate the air in the system with a positive displacement priming pump operating between the pump and a closed discharge valve. *Fill the pump with liquid prior to starting it. *Convert the application to a self priming pump that maintains a reservoir of liquid at its suction. # Also it is advisable to prime the positive displacement pump to run the pump smoothly, as if for some time it is pumping air,there will not be force balance which can cause damage to the pump spares.
Q: A pump, the flow rate of 30T/H per hour, lift 30 meters, should be allocated more power motor?
The actual use of power should be at least 5.5kW, I did not find 30t/H lift 30 meters of the water pump, and only he approached the model, supporting a larger power, and will not increase the power consumption
Q: When the pump is running with frequency conversion, the instantaneous power is greater than the power frequency operation, and the actual flow and lift are less than the power frequency. When running, the efficiency is very low. Why?
There is a running curve for the fan and water pump.Enough is enough
Q: I'm not talking about for a car. Just the standard water pump for you house. Ours won't click on when it's supposed to. First we had to hit the tank itself, and now we have to tap the box on top (I'm assuming some sort of fuse box as there are wires coming out of it). It's getting ridiculous and I'm just ready to buy a new one, but I'm not sure where all you can buy one.
All you need is a new switch. It' the pressure switch that you are refering to and if you have to hit it then it is shot. About $20 - 30 at the hardware store and easy to replace. Be certain to turn off power 1st.
Q: could you explain the process by which water is pumped out of the ground for purposed such as drinking water or irrigation? Can you put it in terms a high school senior would understand?
(1) Identify your potential water source through various methods. (2) Drill a small exploratory hole to different depths, test water pressure and water quality. (3) Drill the complete borehole for production and retrieval of the groundwater. (4) Complete the physical well, will a sheath to allow in the water at the wanted levels, solid pluge to keep other levels out. (5) Insert a chemical and physical filter system (small screen membranes, activate charcoal and diatomaceous earth, etc.) (6) Put in the submersible pump and plug it in. (7) The pump is made up of a motor, an intake and a centrifugal pump. It's all sealed so no water can penetrate through. The water is suctioned into the centrifugal pump, which is an impeller type device. The water is then pushed out at a much higher pressure rate than it came in. This is how the pump works from the bottom instead of above ground. The water is sent to the pressure tank, sometimes referred to as a holding tank, and is kept at a constant pressure, so when you turn on your faucet or shower, the water comes out quickly. As you use the water, more water is pumped into the tank and as the pressure drops in the tank, it will automatically come on and pressurize again.

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