Truck Disc Brake Pads Wva29165

Ref Price:
Loading Port:
Payment Terms:
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month
Inquire Now Customer Service

Contact us by

(1) WeChat
(2) Whatsapp: +8618101089932

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product

Order On-line Tracking

Timely Delivery

OKorder Service Pledge

Credit Rating

Credit Services

Credit Purchasing

Share to:

Product Description:

Product Details

Basic Info.

Model NO.:WVA29125


Type:Brake Pads



Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.

Packing:Box, Carton, Pallet

Standard:TS16949, ISO


HS Code:87083010

Production Capacity:10000sets/ Per Month

Product Description

Fh12 Fh16 FM9 FM12 Fl6 Brake Pads WVA29125 for Volvo
1). Material: Semimetal, ceramics, asbestos free
2). Delivery time: 15-25 days
3). Stable coefficient friction
4). Less noise, no dust
5). Pass ISO and TS16949 certificate
6). Small wear rate and dual wear
7). Good performance of heat
8). MOQ: 100 sets
9). Packing: Box+carton+pallet













Send a message to us:

Remaining: 4000 characters

- Self introduction

- Required specifications

- Inquire about price/MOQ

Q:What is the drum brake ah there is no detailed description of the motorcycle knowledge site can tell me
Simply put, the drum brake is the use of brake drums within the static brake pads, to friction with the wheel rotation of the brake drum to produce friction to reduce the wheel speed of the brake device.
Q:I bought the motorcycle bleeder kit with the pump to bleed my rear brakes. My issue right now is that there is no brake fluid coming out when I use the bleeder. The pump works fine because I can feel the suction. The reservoir has plenty of brake fluid. The valve is open. I don't understand why it's not working. This all started a week ago when I changed my brakes myself. I'm pretty sure I did everything correctly, and I don't understand why the brake fluid won't come out. Help please!
when I put in braided stainless strains on my Kawasaki, I too had a very stressful time getting each and all of the air out. first of all, vacuum pumps artwork super for vehicle disc brakes, yet for motorbike disc brakes and previous form vehicle drum brakes, they pull air previous the brake piston seals and you in no way get each and all of the air out. I even have one and prefer something, there's a time and place for it yet no longer on motorcycles and vintage automobiles. first of all, with a hose on the bleed screw on the calipers, open the screw one after the different and compress the calipers one after the different till you have the pistons pushed each and each of how in. this might expell as lots air as obtainable. Then particularly loosen the banjo bolt on the mastery cylinder. conserving a brilliant wadded rag under it, loosen the bolt possibly a million/4 turn and pull the lever back each and each of how till fluid flows out of the banjo bolt. Tighten the bolt and then bypass all the way down to the T installation. With a sparkling rag (you do no longer desire to apply the previous rag and drip brake fluid onto the fender), do an identical with the different end of the line coming from the grasp cylinder. Then do the two one among the different fittings on the strains going to the calipers. Then flow all the way down to the calipers and with a hose on the bleed screw, open the screw somewhat, squeeze the brake lever and while you're conserving it back close the screw. launch the brake lever and repeat it over back till no bubbles seem and then bypass to the different one. this might desire to expell each and all of the air. If it nonetheless seems somewhat spongy, attempt parking the motorbike out in the nice and comfortable solar all day and notice if that helps. that's what it took to get each and all of the air out on my Kaw.
Q:i was in a car wreck that messed up my left arm and they had to take out my shoulder joint and split my elbow joint and put half of it in my shoulder, apart from that my left hand is like retarded and **** so i cant use it anymore so i wanted to know if i could put a clutch and brake on one handle bar of my motorcycle
On your original idea, many stunt riders who do crazy wheelies in circles, install a second rear brake handle on the LEFT handlebar, which is where the clutch is, so i suppose it woudl be very easy to install the clutch on the right handlbar and put another brake lever there also. -You could get a bike with independant abs, and use the foot brake as your ONLY brake lever by repiping it. after relocating the clutch to the right handlebar and eleminating the right handlbar brake lever. I say abs because the brake force distibution would need to be differnt if there were apassnger, or you were leaning forwar/back, or whatever. It woudl be safest that way. -You could install an AIR SHIFTER! it woudl be badass, and you woudlnt need a clutch anymore, they use these on race bikes, when installed, you push a button, and it momentarily cuts fuel to the engine and using a phenmatic ram attatched to the shifter peg, forces the bike into the next like a hundreth of a second. -The yamaha fjr1300ae doesnt have a clutch! its all computer controlled and shfts at the touch of the footpeg, or a thumb/index switch which is unfortunately located on the left handlbar, but you can use the foot controls anyways. I hope you find a way to make it happen! 21 mispellings in this
Q:bike only has 1000 miles on it and it hasnt been completely broken in. Would this problem go away in time as the brakes wear? Is there a way to adjust brakes? Bike is a harley davidson sportster hugger 883
Most likely cause would be a slightly warped rotor.
Q:how do you bleed brake lines on motorcycles?
There are 2 common methods. Manual bleeding, which is pulling on the lever, opening the bleeder (which has a hose attached and drains into something), when the lever hits the bar closing the bleeder, then releasing the lever. Most professional mechanics who are aiming for doing Quality work (not just Fast work) prefer this method. It's the only method I use and I was the top student in my certification classes. The second method is to use a Mity-Vac. You attach the device to the bleeder nipple, pull a vacuum , then open the bleeder and hold the lever to the bar. You keep the vacuum up and it sucks the fluid out. One step that will speed up Both processes is to suck out the old brake fluid from the master cylinder. I usually just stuff a clean shop towel in to soak up the fluid, and then toss it. You can then refill the master cylinder and proceed with bleeding. Takes less than 5 minutes to do both sides of a dual-disk front end once you do it a time or two.
Q:I don't race or do track days, but rather commute to work on my 2002 GSXR 600. What kinds of brake pads would you recommend? Organic? Sintered? Carbon-Graphite? Any suggestions on where to buy pads from?
For the best answers, search on this site Respectfully, you are asking the wrong people. Why not ask the people at your state's DMV? They are the experts. We are not. Partially due to the fast A) I would never buy a bike without a title B) I know my state of residence and know how to visit my local DMV for a straight answer to my questions. Have to ask, why are you considering this purchase with so much risk? Also, is this your first motorcycle? I'll await your answer.
Q:How to destroy the motorcycle brake system
One word: Brake cap
Q:I have a rather small frame weighing 110 , but I really want to learn to ride and get a license. I‘m mainly worried about me being clumsy and not being quick enough on the road. How difficult is it? Is there alot to learn and how long do you think it will take me to become a good rider? Any advice/tips please?
It's not difficult. I would recommend signing up for a motorcycle safety course. They'll pretty much show you everything you need to know. Balancing isn't hard, it's a lot like riding a bicycle. Familiarize yourself with the controls on the bike before you begin. How quickly you improve at riding will depend on how much you ride. If you're looking for a good beginner bike, I would suggest for your size anything in the 250cc to 500cc range or something you won't get tired of in a week (my first bike was a '96 Kawasaki EX500). I would stay away from the Buel Blast since it's a 499cc single and doesn't run very smoothly. Actually, I would stay away from any single and go with a twin.
Q:Which brand of motorcycle is good?
Lifan, Zongshen, construction, Jialing, Haojue, Qianjiang, Longxin, the seven Chinese brands can be, the quality of the price are similar.
Q:Things I should look at when buying a motorcycle?
Make sure theirs no electrical problems and it fires good.

1. Manufacturer Overview

Year Established
Annual Output Value
Main Markets
Company Certifications

2. Manufacturer Certificates

a) Certification Name  
Validity Period  

3. Manufacturer Capability

a)Trade Capacity  
Nearest Port
Export Percentage
No.of Employees in Trade Department
Language Spoken:
b)Factory Information  
Factory Size:
No. of Production Lines
Contract Manufacturing
Product Price Range
Hot Searches
live chat