Brake Lining Auto Parts for TOYOTA　　　　　　 System 1

Brake Lining Auto Parts for TOYOTA　　　　　　 System 2

Brake Lining Auto Parts for TOYOTA　　　　　　 System 3

Brake Lining Auto Parts for TOYOTA　　　　　　 System 4

Brake Lining Auto Parts for TOYOTA　　　　　　

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

Inquire Now

Chat Online

Add to My Favorites

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Description Of Brake Lining Auto Parts

1)We can supply all kinds of brake pad ; this model was designed and developed as per clients' specifications and drawings or samples
2) We can currently offer over 800 moulds for different using models for Japanese, European, Korean and American brand cars and trucks with OEM services available
3)These products sell well in more than 20 countries and regions including the Middle East, Southeast Asia, Europe, America and Japan
4)We assure that all the parts strictly meet the original equipment standards

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:	1) 3 sets per carton 2) 20' container: 1000 CTNS
Delivery Detail:	15days

Specifications Of Brake Lining Auto Parts

1) Extremly lower noise
2) Little dust and long life
3) Stable friction coefficient
4) High quaility with guarantee

Type	Brake lining
Material	Semi-metallic or non-asbestor
OEM No.	19486
Certification	ISO/TS16949
Color	Black or up to you
Asbestos	None
Noise	None
Guarentee	40,000 kms
Packing	carton package
FOB Price	USD 1.7-4.5 /pc
MOQ	100 sets
Delivery Time	30 days after order confirmation

Main Features Of Brake Lining Auto Parts

1)Stable Friction Coefficient

2)heat-resistant: Less fading and heat resistant up to 400°C

3)abrasion resistance

4)Long Service life:FF grade 35000~40000km

5)Low noise and dustproof

6)Environmental protection,green products

7)Standard:GB5763-1998

Brake Lining Auto Parts Images

Brake Lining Auto Parts for TOYOTA　　　　　　

FAQ:

1. Do you supply free samples for customers?

Yes,we will supply free samples for you.Please send your address for us.

2. How Many years experience do you have?
We have been exported to more than 20 countries in the past 15 years.

3. How long do we usually reply your request?

We always reply our customer within 24 hours.

Q:I have always liked motorcycles and I‘m planning on buying a bike. I‘m doing some research and im looking for something affordable and something easy to ride since it will be my first. So far the kawasaki ninja looks like a good choice, if any one has any inputs i‘d appreciate it.: The Ninja 250 is a great motorcycle. I was service manager at a Kawasaki dealer up until a year ago, and I only saw them in the shop for oil changes and inspections. I've ridden them new and old and they are a blast to ride. Fade0246 has it exactly right and I've been singing the praises of these bikes on here every chance I get, especially as a starter bike. I'm 6'0 and 250 lbs and these bikes haul my fat butt around with NO problem. They will go 100mph and beat 95% of the cars on the road going from zero to 60, and will beat 100% of them on curvy roads. The pistons are the size of a shot glass and the valves aren't much bigger than roofing nails, but this little engine performs like an engine twice its size. I've been looking to buy one cheap that needs work, but I can't find any around here that need work! BTW, my usual ride is a '99 Concours 1000cc 4-cylinder, and the little Ninja is just as much fun to ride. Definitely get a used Ninja 250 for your first bike. I'm not saying this out of any allegiance to Kawasaki or my former employer, since they laid me off, but out of genuine respect for this motorcycle.

Q:Rather than downshifting gears after I have stopped on a motorcycle, isn‘t it better to downshift as my speed decreases and use the engine to brake? Thus, by the time I have stopped, I am at 1st gear.: Its great when you have time to match road speed to engine/gear combinations. You should be downshifting and braking at the same time (lessons in co-ordination :) ) Much better idea is to learn to use brakes as hard as possible for emergency use so you dont run into the jerk who pulled in front of you treat everyone on the road as a psychopath (especially the people you ride with)and you'll probably stay safe

Q:whenever i pull the lever for the front brake. It really doesn't do anything. It does work a little but not effective at all. The lever feels tight and stiff. What do I need to fix? I was thinking to change out the pads, will that do the trick? Do i need to bleed the brakes as it feels a bit tight? any input would be appreciated. it's a 1997 suzuki intruder 800.: If you are not confident to fix it, get a professional It might be that you can lubricate the lever pivot, or the pistons on the pad or the handle, if they are stiff or corroded. Or disassemble them and clean them and polish them with fine sandpaper if required and reassemble them with some lubricant. Don't get grease on the pads (though it will burn off quite quickly). You bleed hydraulic lines if they have air in them - that makes the brakes squishy, not stiff. Changing the pads (the braking surface) would not help, though if the back is corroded and sticking it may help. I forget how the pads are assembled; it's been a while since I changed mine.

Q:Hi guys, I've got a 99 CB400, been doing recent work on it and when it came to bleeding the front brakes,they simply wont bleed..I've checked the master cylinder located below the reservoir and had a worn seal changed in it. After that,checked if it was working and bled just the master cylinder with the hoses to the calipers disconnected, than tried to bleed the calipers but no luck,just a few bubbles from time to time. Sometimes the bubble would actually go back into the hose instead of going completely out.Can anyone help please from personal experience or please redirect me to a post that sheds some light on this situation? I have also checked the hoses, there are no tears. Could changing the washers and putting new ones help?: Try hooking every thing back up all hoses. Check to see if you got any pressure pump it up bleed them, try 2 or3 times.

Q:My bike is 2014 honda crf250l single cylinder fuel injected: Yes it's usually OK, although not to use to keep your speed down when going down hill, for example

Q:I‘m going from stock ride height to cafe racer racer height or a little higher on my 1980 kz 440.: If they don't reach, yes. You should be able to measure it and find out.

Q:I have a old 86 Honda Rebel and my dad has a much newer Honda, and I never really noticed it before until i worked on the disc brakes for my Bronco then i noticed that both of the bike's disc brakes had holes in them: THE ONLY REASON WHY DISK BREAKS HAVE HOLES IS BECAUSE OF HEAT TRANSFER. THE HOLES FUNCTION AS A HEAT DISSIPATION. FRICTION IS PRODUCED WHEN THE BREAK PAD MADE CONTACT WITH THE DISK BREAK. IT HELPS COOL THE DISK BREAK, TO LET THE HEAT TRANSFER TO ATMOSPHERE! - MECHANICAL ENGINEERING ;)

Q:When im on my motorcycle i was taught to brake before entering a turn, which is what ive always done. i was also taught that if you try to slow down in the middle of a turn, your rear wheel will slide out from under you and cause a slide (ive seen it happen to a student).are there any techniques i can use to overcome my fear of sliding and brake during a turn carefully?: Practice Slow down before the turn, this is correct. Slow down not only by braking but also shift down one or two gears, then as you come out of the turn re-engage the clutch and you will be in a position to accelerate out of the turn which allows you much better control You don't automatically slide if you brake in a turn but if you want to skid on purpose that is how you do it. Practice as much as you can out of street traffic.

Q:how to maintain motorcycle brake?: don't okorder bine with engine braking technique use dot4+ fluid, get better master cyl. and braided SS lines...bleed them from time to time if needed

Q:I want to mount a motorcycle engine in the back of a tube frame and hook it up to a front mounted 4 speed manual transmission and cover it in a fiberglass body.The frame will use a independent front suspension, single wheel independent rear suspension. The doors will open and close and the side windows will work(manually). the inside will only have 2 seats and a dash (the firewall will be mounted right behind the seats). The gas tank will be mounted under the front end trunk and the steering will be manual rack-and-pinion and the brakes will be manual(as well) on the front(no rear brake). I estimate the wight at around 400-800 lbs. without a driver.What motor could I use?: The vast of motorcycle motors have a transmission included, the 4-speed car transmission in front would be about 200 pounds of dead weight. What motor you get depends on what you want -- power for fun or a economy micro car. Assuming a econ car, a scooter motor/transmisison/rear wheel -- anything from a 150 for 45 mph streets or 650cc for freeway usage.

1. Manufacturer Overview
Location
Year Established
Annual Output Value
Main Markets
Company Certifications

2. Manufacturer Certificates
a) Certification Name
Range
Reference
Validity Period

3. Manufacturer Capability
a)Trade Capacity
Nearest Port
Export Percentage
No.of Employees in Trade Department
Language Spoken:
b)Factory Information
Factory Size:
No. of Production Lines
Contract Manufacturing
Product Price Range