Product Description:
Product DetailsBasic Info.
Model NO.:WVA29125
Certification:TS16949
Type:Brake Pads
Material:Semi-Metal
Position:Rear
Export Markets:Global
Additional Info.
Packing:Box, Carton, Pallet
Standard:TS16949, ISO
Origin:Qingdao
HS Code:87083010
Production Capacity:10000sets/ Per Month
Product Description
Fh12 Fh16 FM9 FM12 Fl6 Brake Pads WVA29125 for Volvo
1). Material: Semimetal, ceramics, asbestos free
2). Delivery time: 15-25 days
3). Stable coefficient friction
4). Less noise, no dust
5). Pass ISO and TS16949 certificate
6). Small wear rate and dual wear
7). Good performance of heat
8). MOQ: 100 sets
9). Packing: Box+carton+pallet
- Q:So I went to bleed my motorcycle‘s brake fluid, but the screw is stripped. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do? Either 1) How to get it out without an abundant amount of tools. 2) The perfect tool to get to get it out or even 3) a place that would take it out for me (for a cost of course).Thanks in Advance!Oh and if it helps, it‘s a 1980 yamaha maxim xj650.
- Q:I plan on purchasing one this summer.any suggestions to what kind of starter bike i should get and do they have classes that teach you how to ride or should i just go to a empty parking lot and practice it myself. i am nervous to some extent,but this is part of living out my fantasies.please!give me some good advice ridersthanks!
- The idiot light can come on for any number of reasons having to do with your brakes. Start with the simple things, like checking the brake light bulb, I know it sounds silly, but it can turn your light on too. Then I would go to brake fluid, brake pads, and go as far as your equipped to go. Sometimes it is something that a mechanic would look at, but start with the simple things you can check - if they bulb is loose on a break light and you take it to a dealer, you could spend $50 for them to screw the bulb in better.
- Q:They work when I have the headlights on and If I gently squeeze the front lever but they go if I push it any further. They won't work at all with the back lever.This has also stopped my electric start working except if I use it when I gently squeeze the front lever. I have a 2007 Kymco miler 125 if it helps.
- For the rear brake it sounds like all you have to do is adjust the switch on the backside of the footrest.It should have a long spring attached to the brake lever and the switch.Adjust the switch by turning the nut on top of the bracket-all you want is the spring to be straight,not tight-it will then activate the brake light when you step on it..The front sounds like a faulty switch.
- Q:i have a motorcycle project due soon and i need help. so i need 2 each of different ways of a motorcycle creating heat (heat is created), using heat (how the heat is used), conserving heat(how the heat stays in), and eliminating heat(how the heat is taken out. thanks.(no rough comments please).
- Create heat- Engine, brakes, tires Use heat- Engine, tires and brakes must be at the correct temp to work properly (especially tires) Conservation-Thermostat in a liquid cooled bike, tire warmers on a race bike (MotoGP bikes have carbon fibre brake disc rotors which must be very hot to work properly. They put little covers over the rotors so they wont cool down too much) Elimination- Fins on an air cooled engine, radiator on a liquid cooled bike.
- Q:.and can you use either kind?
- Organic (or non-asbestos) Pads: This type of motorcycle brake pad is made by mixing non-asbestos fibres, such as glass, rubber, carbon, and Kevlar, with filler materials and high-temperature resins. The resins act like a thermo-set plastic, which holds the components together like glue. They can have a small proportion of metal and are then occasionally called 'sintered'. Largest market share among motorcycle brake pad types Lower brake disk wear A softer bite point and therefore easier to control Softer compound which creates less noise, but can wear faster and create more dust. Thermal performance to 800deg C Longer bed-in time required Prone to glazing when standard thermal performance limits are reached Sinter Pads: These pads have a very high metal content. Sinter motorcycle brake pads heat up more quickly and run to a higher temperature. With more kinetic energy converted more quickly to heat, they are very effective. It is important how they are made though: Run your fingers over premium sinter brake pads and you feel a smooth surface of finely cut, evenly distributed metal particles – do the same with budget pads and you get a rougher surface that acts like wire wool on your brake disc. Higher friction levels, which are maintained in wet conditions Low tendency to 'fading' brake performance in extreme conditions Shorter bed-in period A defined bite point A higher running temperature, also affecting the brake disc surface Not suitable for all brake discs (cast iron) or callipers More prone to suffer corrosion Brake fluid requires more frequent inspection As a very general rule, sinter motorcycle brake pads perform best on steel brake discs and organic pads tend to be kinder to cast iron discs.
- Q:Rather than downshifting gears after I have stopped on a motorcycle, isn‘t it better to downshift as my speed decreases and use the engine to brake? Thus, by the time I have stopped, I am at 1st gear.
- Sounds ok, just don't use ONLY the engine for your braking. For any bike brakes are incredibly good at braking, an engine not so much -- look up forums about inline-4s to get an idea. Also I'd rather stop quickly than run through an intersection knowing I can't stop in the space provided. I can be much smoother and quicker on the brakes (I initiate my stops pretty close to the intersection) than I can trying to work the clutch and downshifting while coming into a light, so that's the reason I pull in the clutch and use just the brakes to stop, downshifting as I go.
- Q:Hey you; people who just so happen to own a motorcycle or make payments on one. I want to know how much does a motorcycle cost! Also for example if you have experienced a lot with motorcycles, Which ones are reliable? I‘m just asking because, well I‘m interested! I know some of you will say, that it‘s risky do go around in a motorcycle. But to be honest, it‘s risky to do anything! How much does a Motorcycle cost?Which ones are good, and reliable?And if you have any stories to tell, please share with me!
- this guy doesn't know what he is talking about. lower gears (higher numerically) multiply torque. the d35 is a weak axle as it is, the axle shaft diameter is less than an inch, that with the deep gear and the clutch drop snapped the axle shaft. i swapped mine out for a ford 8.8 out of an explorer. got the the axle with factory limited slip, disc brakes and 4:10 gears. got a d30 from a 4 cylinder jeep. also with 4:10's, gear change from the junk yard, 400 bucks. plus brackets and brake lines and new yokes.hey its a JEEP. Just Empty Every Pocket
- Q:Hi all, Bought a 2nd hand bike. Everything is great, no scratches, no funny noises or vibration. Ride is smooth. I read the bike manual, it says to top up the brake fluid once you see it being depleted front little window at the right handle bar, which it is. And the manual says either put dot 3 or dot 4 brake fluid in.Question:- Is there much difference between Dot 3 or Dot 4? Any particular one that is better?- There‘s still a bit of the old fluid there. Do I need to drain it out first before adding in new fluid? My concern is I don‘t know what the old fluid is. Are Dot 3 and Dot 4 brake fluid mix-able?
- This Site Might Help You. RE: Motorcycle: Dot 3 or Dot 4 brake fluid? Hi all, Bought a 2nd hand bike. Everything is great, no scratches, no funny noises or vibration. Ride is smooth. I read the bike manual, it says to top up the brake fluid once you see it being depleted front little window at the right handle bar, which it is. And the manual says either.
- Q:It just started this weekend. I have been riding in the mountains and when I began coasting down the hills, my bike would begin to wobble. It only seems to do this when I am using the back brake slightly or when I am coasting without holding the clutch in. I also see that the back wheel has no wheel weight on it and wonder if thats the problem. Help me out.
- Place the bike on a stand, center-stand if applicable. Check - for any loose spokes, side-play from axle to rim, loose axle nuts, proper alignment of rear wheel to frame and - you didn't mention how old the tires were!? If they are more than five years old and subjected to ups downs in usage and weather, they may be out of whack also. The balance weights loss would only effect forward movement, the wobble is something else.
- Q:I know a few reasons however would appreciate it if someone can explain some of the physics - how the kinetic energy is dissipated and why a motorcycle (even tough it has far me KE) can brake so much quicker. Tell me all the reasons if possible not just that the tyres are bigger.
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