Auto Parts Semi-Metal Car Brake Pad

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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month
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Auto parts: 

brake pads

Position: 

Front Axle

PAGID: 

C1004

VALEO: 

541679

WVA: 

29108/29109/29163

FMSI: 

D1203-8323

FERODO: 

FDB1313

Rate: 

EE&FF

Test: 

Link &Greening Test

 Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:

Neutral Packing, ANTEC Packing, Client's Packing. Corrugated Box,Wooden case,Pallet.

Delivery Detail:

30-45days

Specifications

Brake pads 
1)Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 2)High noise abatement 
3)Prompt delivery

Core Products:

We produce Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber brake pads .

Description:

    Crossing Reference Number

Application

FMSI

D1203-8323

FERODO

FDB1313

Scania   

 

Benz 

 

Man 

 

Iveco 

 

DAF

WVA

29087

WVA

29059

WVA

29106

WVA

29105

WVA

29062

WVA

29061

WVA

29060

WVA

29046

WVA

29045

WVA

29042

WVA

29202

WVA

29201

WVA

29179

WVA

29163

WVA

29109

WVA

29108

O.E.M.

0034201620

O.E.M.

0024204920

O.E.M.

082135100

O.E.M.

0044202220

O.E.M.

2992348

O.E.M.

1439324

Features:

1.Shimmed, chamfered and slotted to be consistent with OE Design

2.Positive mold process

3.Ultra-quiet performance, low dusting

4.Rubberized multi-layer shims

5.Responsive braking and longer pad life

6.Sensor wires included on those vehicles with OE sensor wires

7.QS9000, IS09002 and TUV certified

Advantages:

1. Production experience: 15 years

2. Items' availability: 1800 models of brake pads, our R&D Department can develop 10 new items per month. Presently the models under production cover European and American Applications, Japanese and Korean Applications, and heavy-duty applications for truck, bus and engineering vehicles etc.

3. Formulation: Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 

4.OEM Accepted: We can produce any your design. 

5.Guarantee: 30,000- 60,000kms

6.Warranty:If there is any quality problem, we will supply the same quantity goods with free charge to you.

 

 

 

 

Q:What are the precautions for the novice riding a motorcycle?
Before driving the best familiar to buy a variety of motorcycles and the speed of light, not on the national road and high-speed, very dangerous.
Q:I‘m a young girl who just moved to TX. When I was living in FL I always wanted a bike and to learn to ride but my dad wouldn‘t allow it. Now that I‘m on my own I want to get my license, buy a bike and learn to ride but I don‘t have any idea how to get started. Any advice?
First, make sure you can ride a peddle bike.
Q:I would like to learn how to ride a motorcycle. The problem is last time I tried, I skidded and fell off twice. Thankfully it was in the grass so I suffered just brusing and mildly skinned arms. So I‘d rather not get on one again. But I was hanging with the relatives last night, and it turns out I‘m the only guy not riding. They could basically start a club/gang. I‘m looking for motivation and inspiration to get on it again. What got ya‘ll riding?
There is always going to be that fear when your on the bike if this is going to be the last time or not. I have that fear all the time. The thing I did to get over the fear and know my bike and know it well. Understand what your bike is capable of and DON'T HESITATE. That is the one thing I learned and it has saved my life at least 5 Major times. The more you know the vehicle your driving the better state you will be in. Take it to a large parking lot and see how well it stops and how fast you can avoid by going left or right and the one that has saved me the most is by learning what gear I can be in at what speed to get out of danger. Once you have become fully familiar with your motorcycle just be careful that's all I can say. I have been in 2 wrecks. One was when I was learning the limitations of my motorcycle. The other was a jerk that pulled out in front of me. Slammed on the rear brakes and hit the truck flush sideways and got up, bike was fine I was missing a little skin and to top it off the mother $^%er HAULED $$ and ran over my helmet and got away. Anyways hope that helps out any, I am starting to ramble now :-P
Q:I have a 1975 Kawasaki 400cc motorcycle that was given to me. It is rusted, old and hasn‘t run in probably about 10 years. I know it needs a new clutch cable and a brake cable. Ok, so after I replace those, what is the best way to go about fixing it and getting it running since I have no idea what is wrong with it (I‘m only 16). If I take it to a repair shop, what would it cost to find out everything that I need to get it running, or an estimate?
If it has been down that long you are looking at a very wide range of possible issues. Figure all the seals are probably dried out and will need to be replaced. If fluids were left in the engine then they will probably have separated and turned into a gummy mess. If there is any rust inside the engine then it will cause issues. Anything rubber (like tires) or fabric is probably dried out and will crack as well. If you really want to save it then take it to a good mechanic, or get the service manual on the bike and do a complete overhaul yourself. Unless this is a classic bike you will put more into it than you will ever see out of it, so do it for yourself if you really like the bike.
Q:I do not have a motorcycle license yet, but I plan on taking the safety course this summer. My dream bike is the Kawasaki Ninja 650 ABS, but I know its a terrible idea to start out on a 650cc. The drivers school that I plan on going through lends you a 125cc while you are in class, but going from a 125 to a 650 is suicide especially since I wouldn‘t consider trainers school actual road experience. My mom has a 2004 Kawasaki Ninja 500r and I think she might let me ride it if I go through drivers school, but she still will probably tell me to ride a 250 first. I checked Craigslist for a CBR250r Honda and the cheapest I could find one for was $3,200. I can‘t see myself purchasing a trainers bike for that much money especially since I do not have very good sales experience and probably would not be able to sell it back for much. What are my options as far as working my way up to a 650. I would consider purchasing a 300 ABS but I‘m too worried about investing in a bike that might not be my dream bike.
Get the trouble codes read to find out why. Asking us to guess which of the many possible codes are set on your car is a fruitless endeavor. This is why computers store trouble codes, to TELL you where to start your diagnosis rather than asking for wild off the wall guesses.
Q:for Stop the motorbike generally by applying all the handlebar lever break and foot pedal break. my question is -gt; if I applying handlebar and foot pedal both in same time when I going in very speed , is it dangerous ?
you are generally supposed to press footbrake 3/4 down and front handle bar brake 1/4 down so the bike rolls to a stop rather than ejecting you into the air and hitting the tarmak very hard.
Q:How do I shift? I was told that the bike is ‘four down - one up‘ (though a book I have says that all modern bikes here in the US are ‘four up-one down‘). How do I up and down shift through all the gears?
Q:I am a very new motorcycle rider. I just learnt to change oil and do small works on my motorcycle. I don t know the mechanism about the brake fluid works, but I know it works using the air pressure. I opened the front brake fluid reservoir without thinking. But I closed it immediately. Do I have to bleed the brakes since I disrupted the vacuum/air pressure? Will this affect by brake performance. Please let me know. Thank you.
Never affected my brakes and I've been riding for 25 years.
Q:Hello! I have a 2001 Honda Shadow Ace (VT750CD). My brakes work but need new pads. The front wheel is already off from something else I was doing. The problem is that the caliper pistons are sticking out a little bit, maybe 1/4 inch. With the new pads installed, there isn‘t enough room for the rotor to go inbetween so I need to push the pistons in some but I can‘t just push them in. Is there a problem with the pistons? While I have everything removed, I might as well clean the caliper. Can someone please explain the steps? Should I:Unbolt caliperPump brake until pistons begin to come out moreGrip and remove pistonsClean the bore and sand pistonsPut waterproof brake grease on pistons before installing againPush them all the way in flush before installing new brake pads???Should I remove the dust seals/o-rings before cleaning the bore? Any help is very much appreciated.
First, you should be consulting a manual. Second, you should use the old pad with that clamp to make sure the piston has no chance of cocking in the bore.
Q:The dealer wants me to go to them and pay around 300. I was wondering if anyone knew what they did exactly because I don‘t trust them so I can just do it myself. They told me it would void the manufacturers warranty but I don‘t see that anywhere in the manual.
it will definately void the warranty. i'm not exactly sure what they do for your model of motorcycle. it should be just fluid/filter and check valve and cam chain adjustments, and inspect everything else (tyres, chain, sprockets, brakes, suspension). look if it's brand new, not pre-owned, then servicing it yourself is going to void the warranty, just as it does on a new car. if it is still under the manufacturers warranty then don't do any work yourself. however if it is pre-owned and covered by a dealer warranty, not manufacturer, then you can service the bike yourself. i know this because i am about to buy a new bike and have already discussed this with several dealers and i contacted honda personally and consumer affairs. i've decided to go pre-owned low kilometre with a dealer warranty. running a motorbike is supposed to be cheap, but thats only true when you do your own work. if i were you i would have it serviced by the dealer, until your warranty expires.

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