• Disc Brake Car Brake Discs OEM & Customized (31322/ 42431-06051) System 1
  • Disc Brake Car Brake Discs OEM & Customized (31322/ 42431-06051) System 2
  • Disc Brake Car Brake Discs OEM & Customized (31322/ 42431-06051) System 3
Disc Brake Car Brake Discs OEM & Customized (31322/ 42431-06051)

Disc Brake Car Brake Discs OEM & Customized (31322/ 42431-06051)

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month

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Product Details

Basic Info.

Certification:ECE

Type:Brake Discs

Material:Non-Asbestos

Position:Front

Export Markets:Global

Product Description

Brake disc 
Standard: E-MARK 
Origin: China 
Features: 
1) Hardness: 180-240HB 
2) Long service life 
3) 100% crucial dimension inspection 
4) 100% qualification 
5) Low noise 
Standard for casting is G3000. Standard for machining is SAE-J431. 
We use AIMCO# and OEM# and right now we have more than 1, 900 items that can be supplied to the aftermarket 

AIMCO#

AIMCO#

AIMCO#

AIMCO#

AIMCO#

AIMCO#

AIMCO#

3102

3438

5361

5588

8978

31163

31353

3104

3441

5362

5590

8979

31164

31354

3106

3444

5364

5593

8980

31165

31355

3107

3445

5365

5594

8981

31166

31356

3108

3446

5366

5595

8983

31168

31357

3110

3451

5367

5596

8984

31169

31358

3111

3452

5368

5598

8985

31170

31359

3112

3455

5370

5599

8986

31172

31360

3114

3457

5371

5601

8987

31173

31361

3116

3458

5372

5606

8988

31174

31362

3117

3459

5373

5607

8989

31175

31363

3118

3460

5374

5610

8990

31176

31364

3120

3462

5375

5614

8991

31177

31365

3122

3464

5376

5617

8992

31178

31366

3123

3466

5377

5618

8993

31179

31367

3124

3467

5378

5703

8994

31181

31368

3125

3468

5379

5704

8995

31182

31369

3126

3469

5381

5712

8996

31184

31370

3130

3470

5382

8101

8997

31185

31371

3132

3471

5383

8105

8998

31186

31372

3133

3472

5386

8106

8999

31188

31373

3134

3477

5387

8108

31000

31189

31374

3136

3479

5388

8109

31001

31192

31375

3137

3480

5389

8124

31002

31193

31376

3138

3482

5393

8141

31003

31197

31377

3140

3483

5394

8146

31004

31198

31378

3141

3485

5395

8147

31005

31199

31379

3146

3487

5396

8160

31006

31201

31380

3150

3488

5397

8163

31007

31202

31381

3151

3489

5398

8171

31008

31203

31382

3152

3497

5399

8173

31009

31204

31383

3153

3498

5401

8179

31010

31205

31384

3154

3502

5404

8190

31011

31208

31385

 

Q: I plan to buy a motorcycle in the next couple of months and of course I want to protect my investment.I‘ve done some searching online and am overwhelmed to discover the number of types and brands of anti theft systems there are available. Normally I would resign myself to ask the dealerships what they suggest but I‘m fundamentally wary of anything they say as I can‘t be sure if they are actually giving me an honest opinion or trying to make an additional sale. I found a system I like called Roadlok. It seems a simple enough system at a very reasonable price. I wonder if anyone might offer an opinion or even better some personal experience with this system.
I own the roadlok for my 2006 Gsxr-1000. While I KNOW nothing will prevent a determined thief from stealing your bike, the only thing we can do as riders is make it as difficult as possible. The plain and simple fact is, thieves are lazy, and they would much rather steal a bike without a roadlok. The Roadlok becomes a part of the rotor, and a thief would much rather just move on then now have to remove/ replace the brake rotor once stolen. If stolen for parts, its also once less thing they can now sell. Lo-jack and other locators are great methods of recovery, but there is a difference between RECOVERY and PREVENTION. Of course, the marrying of these two methods is ideal but often not done. Prevention in the form of disc locks (not a roadlok), while being inconvenient to carry around and use, has the potential to damage the motorcycle and you as a rider. Unlike disc locks, a motorcycle with a roadlok cannot roll once the lock is engaged, making it much less convenient for a thief to try and roll your bike away or maneuver it into a flatbed. Also, I use Gieco motorcycle insurance and I love the fact that I get a discount on my insurance. (NO OTHER LOCK OFFERS AN INSURANCE DISCOUNT!!!) i only have to carry around the pin and slide it in to lock up my baby. AGAIN!!!! i KNOW nothing will stop a thief, but lets make it a little more difficult while also looking good! Hope this helps, Cheers!
Q: I changed my rear brake pads on my motorcycle last night and they were doing fine all night and this morning but when I was coming home from school they were making a howling noise when applied as well as some slight squealing. What does this mean?
It means they are binding, do the discs feel very hot after riding? Do not ride the bike far like that as it will distort the disc through heat. The most likely cause is grime on the piston, did you clean them up when you replaced the pads? Otherwise they will not retreat as far as they are supposed to, which was fine with the old pads as they took up less width as they wore down. Some (older) designs benefit from some copper grease on the reverse of the pads (do not get any grease on the face or the disc, and do not use other forms of grease as they are not as heat resistant).
Q: Intends to buy less than 30000 locomotives, motorcycle locomotive what brake system is better, the engine Yongyuan
Early, domestic Yongyuan is very good. But the product technology has been no breakthrough slowly behind. A car all the system configuration will be good and bad is mainly to see a price. Now produced a lot of new reputation of the car as spring breeze Huanglong Long Xin ... you can go to more understanding and pursuit
Q: i have a mini motorcycle and lost the key and the hotwire thing worked but the pull start still has resistance due to the battery not actually being on.or maybe the battery is dead.but how do you dis able the battery and allow the bike to run on just the engine itself.all i need is the throttle and brakewhich are not electricthe lights and horn and all the other bull **** is just extra weight.and keep in mind it has not been started for about 2 years i think
Resistance from the pull start mechanism has nothing to do with the battery. If you want to disable the battery just disconnect the cables to it. Some bikes have to have battery power for the ignition to work, don't know if your bike does because you did not state the most important information-type of bike you are refering to.
Q: Hi. I have module 1 test coming up and have been told I should use my rear brake. Problem is I always use the front brake and have no real experience of using the back brake. Anyone got any tips on how to practice using the rear brake? Thanks
The back brake is amazingly substantial while battling a motorbike. The rear brake debts for greater or less 20% of your battling power. As you supply up the load of the motorbike shifts in the direction of the front of the motorbike and progressively removes weight from the rear brake. So, the front is composed of lots of the battling power. despite if; Do you certainly need to shrink your breaking power with the help of 20%? In a panic supply up 20% is amazingly substantial. evaluate an impediment 100ft in front of you, word the two brakes you have 20 ft to spare, word in basic terms the front you're on precise of the impediment.
Q: When i ride my motorcycle and i go from accelerating or cruising (anything where the throttle is open at all) then pull the clutch in, the engine dies. When i go from throttle open to throttle closed without pulling the clutch in, using engine braking (or down-shifting), then the bike has no problems.I have tried increasing the idle speed, and have gone as high as 1800rpm for the idle speed, and the problem still exists.This seems like an idle or carburetor issue, but I am not sure. It seems like the idle is not engaging when it should.I have synced, and cleaned, the carbs as well, with no avail.Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.The motorcycle is a 1995 kawi ZX6R.
Sounds like either a fuel delivery problem or a vacuum leak.
Q: Do you have to shift down when braking on a motorcycle? Say if you were in 4th gear, could you just use your breaks to come to a stop and then change the gears, or are you suppose to change gears as you slow down?
It's best to be downshifting WHILE braking, as many times, it;s difficult to get the thing into lower gears while stopped. You don't want to be stuck trying to get it into 1st gear when the light turns green.

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