• bus brake lining  OEM auto parts System 1
bus brake lining  OEM auto parts

bus brake lining OEM auto parts

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month

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  • Size: 90x 9.6 x360

  • Car Make: KATO

  • OE NO.: GG-113/1 UK090-01 15240

  • Place of Origin: Jiangsu, China (Mainland)

  • Brand Name: hi-best

  • Model Number: GG-113/1 UK090-01 15240

  • color: black/brown/yellow/green

  • PC: 4

  • rivets: L7.5

  • holes: 12

  • slot: yes

  • chamfer: yes

  • grade: GG/FF

  • test: chase

  • label: according to requirement

  • noise: none

  • Packaging & Delivery

    Packaging Details:cartons,pallet
    Delivery Detail:25 days

    Specifications

    1.yutong bus brake lining
    2.MOQ:50 SETS
    3.23K, 80,000KMS
    4.CHASE TEST
    5.400 MODELS

     

     

     

    Product Description

     

      

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    yutong bus brake lining                                   

    1.high quality&good yutong bus brake lining  
    2.material:asbestos&non asbestos
    3.400 kinds for truck,trailer,bus,etc
    4:chase test  

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    Characteristic

    • light & heavy duty brake lining  

    • Very efficient when braking and low wearing, minimum loss of efficiency on wet surface.

    • Low wear of the rotors.

    • powerful and progressive brake that doesn't fade.

    • Low lost of efficiency on wet conditions. Low to no-noise.

    • Smooth on rotors, very effective for high line tourisms.

    • Produced f or both axels, it can  be applied on the rear axel on competition vehicles of front wheel drive

     

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    Specification

     

    WVA MAFF BFMC DIMENSION DRUM DIAM APPLICATION
          19932315.1290.0 SV/41/2 203×19×235 410bpw

     

 

 

 

 

 

 

Q: I have a motorcycle made by Bajaj.It‘s 3 months old and run 2500 kilometers.I handle it gently and have never dropped or crashed it.Two days back, the bike developed handling problems at the front end.The handle bars feels heavy and refuses to turn.It‘s as if the handle is welded to the chassis.The problem is at it‘s worst between speeds of 10-20 km/hr.The bike is also pulling to either sides when grabbing the front brake.Negotiating roundabouts has become risky.The bike just wants to go straight rather than turning and i have to muscle it back to my correct path.It was not like this just a week ago.What could be the problem?.The air pressure on both tyres are perfect.The front disks are not dragging either.Is it something related to forks or bearings?.Do the bearings get tight automatically?.
One of fords better cars compared with the Cadillac, They use ford's biggest engine the 4.6L, most expensive fixes is the rear air bag suspension. Could cost up to $1500 to get it fixed.
Q: you have 212 wheels and 180 brakes. 2 brakes per vehicle. how many motorcycles and 4-wheelers do you have?
I have one motorcycle, and one car (it has 4 wheels). How many do you have?
Q: Can we skip the answer that go you never stop learning or after __ years I am still learning. Yes I understand you are always improving, you are always learning and what not but you know what I am asking so can I get real answers here? (not trying to be an as*hole just trying to get answers).I generally pick up on things rather fast, I learned how to drive a stick in a couple hours and by the 2nd day my shifts were smooth. so I learn pretty fast.
Assuming you take a class (MSF or other) it should only take you a few days to actually learn to operate the motorcycle (it really isn't that hard, but operating it correctly isn't usually what causes accidents). As far as learning how to safely ride a motorcycle, if you believe the statistics, it takes about 6 months of riding time to learn to ride it safely (building muscle memory, building experience, etc.), assuming you're working on improving and not just learning how not to drop it.
Q: I have not long had my fazer and am made up with it. its a 2001 fzs 600 and it had 12800 miles on it when i bought it, i was wondering if i should service the calipers? the brakes feel fine and the guy i bought it off said he had recently changed the pads on the front. any advise would be great as i have read that the fazer is known for the brake calipers seizing.
Keep the brake area clean with a good wash and a blow-dry. Normally that keeps things under control, if the bike sits out in the weather most of the time that is when corrosion around the calipers is at its greatest vulnerability from oxidization and can/will cause problems. As the brakes are working fine, run it into your favorite MC Service center and ask for a simple visual test if you are not sure.
Q: Approximately 3 weeks ago I brought my motorcycle to a repair shop because the front brakes were locking up They informed me that the bike was fixed and could be picked up. I jumped on the bike and rode off. Before I even reached 500 ft the brakes locked up again and threw me off the bike at 50 mph causing severe road rash along my entire body and fractures in my foot. My question is: is the repair shop liable for all costs involved, i.e medical costs, repair of the bike, pain and suffering? Here are some random facts:The bike is relatively new with 1200 miles on itI never signed anything waiving my rights for the repairsThis was a reoccurring problem with the brakes. The purchase order even said The front brakes are locking up. FIX THEM The weather conditions were sunny with no rain and I did not even touch the brakes before they locked up. There was a gentleman on the scene that picked up the bike and informed me that the front brakes were still locked into place/
hi mate if it was my bike and did and the shop did not repair your bike brakes properly i would take it back to them and ask what is going on. And i would ASK for my money back or ask to speak to the boss and ask what the hell is going on this shop. that is it relly mate please vote me as your best anwer
Q: I‘ve been doing a little research while preparing to get my CA motorcycle license and I‘ve come across many forums with posters advocating draggin the rear brake while feathering the throttle in order to pass the test going around the circle. Does anyone have an idea -based on motorcycle theory- why that would help? I‘m scheduled to take the motorcycle safety course next week, and if I pass I‘ll never have to do the DMV‘s lollipop test, but I‘m still curious what it is about dragging that back break that would make a difference on a rider‘s ability to keep the front wheel inside the lines in the circle. And ideas?
I have not taken this test, but I gather it is a slow speed (just about walking pace) manoeuvring test, which I have done. When you are trying to keep a bike in a straight line at walking pace you are hovering between stalling and slowing so much you put your foot down (I assume that would be a failure) and going too fast to perform the required actions. The smaller and lighter a bike is the easier this would be to do. You can do this by juggling throttle and clutch – but this takes experience and is not a skill that a novice will have to hand, as is applying the front brake while keeping a constant throttle. So the rear brake is used to modulate the speed while the clutch and throttle is kept almost constant – it separates the controls to three limbs. I would expect the biggest failure rate to be caused by riders looking at the route a few inches in front of the wheel – but that is too late at a slow speed, any compensation could put you out of the route or put your foot down, you have to look further ahead, turn your head to look where you want to go. btw google moto gymkhana if you want to see some amazing skills for tight “slow” turns.
Q: i recently boughta car and i was told it need a brake booster
A mechanical device which attaches to the brake system to multiply the force the driver applies with his foot (or hand as in the case of a motorcycle). The device uses air, vacuum, or hydraulic fluid to accomplish this purpose.
Q: what's the cons? can someone tell me the hazards on this? any possible affects on the boiling or overflowing? I have seen it on someones hayabusa and I'd like to do the same. I see no reason why because there is not presssure on the resorvoir as i know unless the fluid boils. any ideas?
There's all different kinds of plastics and each has its own properties. As ? said, the brake fluid may react adversely and you end up spilling fluid all over your tank. For taking it out it may work ok as a one shot deal, but there's no way I'd use one to fill the reservoir. Brake fluid will cause ordinary rubber to swell up a considerable amount and a plastic syringe has a rubber tip on the plunger. I could just see you sucking the syringe full of new fluid, the rubber tip swells and in an attempt to put the fluid in the reservoir, you squeeze, squeeze, squeeze and all of a sudden it sprays fluid all over everything. If you wish to use a syringe, an all glass one like used in laboratories would work.

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