Auto Brake Pads for Honda Cr-V 45022-Sww-G01 OEM

Auto Brake Pads for Honda Cr-V 45022-Sww-G01 OEM System 1

Auto Brake Pads for Honda Cr-V 45022-Sww-G01 OEM

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Basic Info.

Model NO.:WVA29125

Certification:TS16949

Type:Brake Pads

Material:Semi-Metal

Position:Rear

Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.

Packing:Box, Carton, Pallet

Standard:TS16949, ISO

Origin:Qingdao

HS Code:87083010

Production Capacity:10000sets/ Per Month

Product Description

Fh12 Fh16 FM9 FM12 Fl6 Brake Pads WVA29125 for Volvo
1). Material: Semimetal, ceramics, asbestos free
2). Delivery time: 15-25 days
3). Stable coefficient friction
4). Less noise, no dust
5). Pass ISO and TS16949 certificate
6). Small wear rate and dual wear
7). Good performance of heat
8). MOQ: 100 sets
9). Packing: Box+carton+pallet

Auto Brake Pads for Honda Cr-V 45022-Sww-G01 OEM

Q:a guy was riding his motorcycle when the van in front of him slammed on his brakes and stopped the buy on the bike hit him and flew over the top of the van and landed on the antena and it went right threw him. well when he got to the er the dr. said it was the worst case of VANarial disease he ever saw.: HOO Hah dat's a cute one girly, There was a blonde going down the road swerving left and right. Cop stopped her and asked, Have you been drinking? she said, No I was swerving to avoid the trees. Cop said, Geez lady there aren't any trees in the road, it's that air freshener hanging from your mirror.

Q:I heard about these cool Aftermarket Composite Motorcycle Brakes that tend to wear out less than normal brake rotors and are actually pretty good for stopping power. I was wondering where I could find a pair of these for my Harley. I wanted some cool looking colour rotor designs I seen on some of my buddies Harley’s. And also do the rotors come in a package with buttons and pads as well or do you buy everything separately. Kevin: Hey Kevin, I had bought some awesome aftermarket brakes for my old Harley from a company called Matrix brakes about 5 months ago. They have some aluminum composite material and I found it was really great in terms of durability (not a squeak out of them despite driving through torrentious rain this April). One important thing to buy is the brake pads they provide some great stopping power in combination with those rotors. They don’t come in a package of rotors and pads but I’m pretty sure you can call one of their suppliers for a package. Michael

Q:They‘re always jackknifing and sheet. Whats up with that? My 1989 BMW motorcycle has anti-lock brakes, but brand new semis go around rolling on top of Miatas for no reason. So, wtf is going on, mang?: Anti-lock brakes are great but you simply cannot overcome the laws of physics. If you get a 70,000 lbs. object traveling down a road - particularly a wet or icy road - and then radically change the angle of the tractor and trailer, it can still jackknife whether or not a truck has ABS. Want to reduce jackknifing? One way may be to start prosecuting drivers who swerve in front of heavy trucks.

Q:I bought a new straddle motorcycle, found the rear wheel brake die, brake mule silk also also brake less, how is it? What place can be transferred,: Hello there! Motorcycle rear brake: the first to adjust the brake pedal free travel distance, that is, the length of the pull line, and then adjust the angle of the brake arm angle, if necessary, clean the oil pollution brake helmet and brake shoe cloth, when the brake shoe Wear a brake shoe when the wear is serious.

Q:My front brakes were making a squeaking noise on and off on my motorcycle so I changed the front brake pads (in which they needed to be changed bc the pads were shiny)... and now they squeak and squeal even worse! High pitch noise. And I don't even have to be pressing on the brakes for them to squeal, I can hear it going 45 mph! What's going on here? Btw the rotor is smooth/no ridges. Best answer, 10 pts! Thanks: You should always lube the bearing surfaces of the caliper when you change the brake pads on any vehicle - motorcycles, cars, trucks, etc. The bearing surface on most motorcycle brakes is the two pins that run through the caliper and pads. You can use specially formulated stuff if you like, but they get moly grease from the factory and that's what is generally recommended. Just a thin coating and rub it around with your finger. You can get a normal person's lifetime supply can from OReilly for $5. Make sure it's moly grease, and not white lithium or some other type. It will be black and have an odd odor. Other than that, some pads come with a coating on them that has to be worn off and will squeak for the first few uses. Especially budget ones made out of cheaper compounds. I always spend the extra money for EBC on my bikes and Wagner on my trucks.

Q:I have a 2000 Suzuki Bandit S. Sometimes when I‘m at a light, for some reason it wont switch into first gear. Other times it‘s really easy. What can be causing this?: let off the clutch just a little while gently engaging into first gear. Happens to my busa sometimes.

Q:is it the same principle as a scooter with a semi-automatic transmission. In other words is it shifted electronically or manually as you would with a traditional clutch ?: The Hondamatic motorcycles (CB400 and CB750) had a two-speed semi-auto transmission with a conventional foot-operated shift lever. You shifted when you chose, and there was no clutch lever. The front brake had a locking mechanism on the lever, so that it could be used as a parking brake. The bikes could move off from a stop in either gear (just twist the throttle), but were especially slow to accelerate in 2nd.

Q:I have about 8600 mi on my FZ6 and the brakes are fine, but just wondering how to tell when they need to be replaced. I have heard that aftermarket pads make a big difference.: If you look from the front of the bike into the open end of the caliper you can usually see the pads. The part of the pad that is between the disc rotor and the metal backing plate of the pad assembly is the friction material. Many pad do have a groove cut in the middle of the pad that shows you the wear limit. Many do not have the groove. You look at both the right and left pads and judge how much is left. If there is less than 1/8 of any pad left, it is close to time to replace the pads. Stock pads from your bike's manufacturer work well. I always replace pads with EBC brand HH pads and have always had good luck with them.

Q:I bough a used bike and after learning all the various necessary checks, realized that the dealer left the brake fluid at the low fill lines. I want to top up and got the recommended fluid for my Triumph Speedmaster (DOT 4). But I have no idea what brand is in there. I have to assume it is also the recommended DOT 4. Would it be safe to top up? Also, are you supposed to discard what‘s left in the bottle after a top-up?: Uncle Jed is the person! They're as he stated, obviously! Other formulations is not going to play first-rate with Dot 3-four do not use them!! Remember Brake fluid is hydroscopic which means it sucks up moisture from the atmosphere like a sponge. Exchange your fluid as a minimum once a year at the of using season. On no account use fluid from an open can. Keep away from chlorine!! All Hail Uncle Jed with a thumbs up!!

Q:yamaha or honda: Being a Honda owner myself, that is my recommendation. As for a good beginner bike. Mine was A 750. However, I am six feet tall. I now own a 900, almost fully dressed. An older 550four would be a good starter bike. I'd stay away from crotch rockets until you get some riding experience under your belt. And keep in mind, motorcycles are fun but can also be deadly machines, no matter what size, brand or style you have. You have to BE AWARE of EVERYTHING around you.

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