• Brake pads Non-asbestos Pads Disc Brake    auto parts System 1
  • Brake pads Non-asbestos Pads Disc Brake    auto parts System 2
Brake pads Non-asbestos Pads Disc Brake    auto parts

Brake pads Non-asbestos Pads Disc Brake auto parts

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month

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  • Size: 90x 9.6 x360

  • Car Make: KATO

  • OE NO.: GG-113/1 UK090-01 15240

  • Place of Origin: Jiangsu, China (Mainland)

  • Brand Name: hi-best

  • Model Number: GG-113/1 UK090-01 15240

  • color: black/brown/yellow/green

  • PC: 4

  • rivets: L7.5

  • holes: 12

  • slot: yes

  • chamfer: yes

  • grade: GG/FF

  • test: chase

  • label: according to requirement

  • noise: none

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     Bus brake lining                                   

    1.high quality&good yutong bus brake lining  
    2.material:asbestos&non asbestos
    3.400 kinds for truck,trailer,bus,etc
    4:chase test  

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    Characteristic

    • light & heavy duty brake lining  

    • Very efficient when braking and low wearing, minimum loss of efficiency on wet surface.

    • Low wear of the rotors.

    • powerful and progressive brake that doesn't fade.

    • Low lost of efficiency on wet conditions. Low to no-noise.

    • Smooth on rotors, very effective for high line tourisms.

    • Produced f or both axels, it can  be applied on the rear axel on competition vehicles of front wheel drive

     

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Q: I have a suzuki gs500f with only 430 miles on it, its brand new but I was noticing a weird problem with the front brake fluid reservoir: it isnt always consistent. Like tongiht I went out and could barely see the brake fluid yet at other times the fluid seems like its half full...what could be causing this and should i have it looked at?
check the level on a flat surface. I would recommend that you also check it on the same flat surface. Don't check it in your garage, then check the level on a road. Don't check it on the side stand, then check it on a center stand. you will always see two different levels. do not fill past the top fill line and don't fill it with brake fluid from a container that's been used and sitting on the shelf for a while. always try to use brake fluid that's just been opened. when checking the level of the front brake reservoir, turn the wheel to the left with the bike on the side stand, on a level surface.
Q: I just change my rear tire and now i have no rear brake. My father and I bleeded the system, but i still have no rear brake. Have any suggests to try, or what might be the problem with it?
If you have rear drums, your hyd cylinders may be the culprit, a slow leak. It is rare but the master cylinders have been known to leak into the boosters I doubt that your front discs are leakingleaky ABS valves are rare as well.
Q: Why is the motorcycle before the disc brakes brake it?
For cost control and economic usability
Q: I‘m learning to ride a motorcycle on my own, First gear seems fine. But when i shift to second gear and apply a break, the bike engine stops. And when i apply break in first gear, the bike stops aswell.Do i need to leave the accelerator handle when i press the clutch while gear shifting? and if im riding on 2nd or 3rd or 4th gear, and i need to apply a break, should i break first and then shift down? or first shift down? and do i need to hold the clutch while applying the break? When im on 2nd or 3rd gears, Do i still need to leave accelerator handle before shifting up the gear??and Do i need to release the clutch and accelerate simultaneosly and slowly like in first gear?
1. You pull the clutch in ALL the way, and use both brakes. 2. You can come to a stop in 2nd gear with the clutch pulled in. But it is better practice to come to a stop in 1st, with the clutch in. It is always a good idea to be in the correct gear for the speed you are doing. That way, you have the ability to release the clutch and accelerate quickly, should the vehicle behind you not see you stopping. Also, most transmissions are easier to shift while the bike is still rolling. 3. It depends on the bike, but usually you will be shifting into 2nd before you reach the other side of an intersection. 4. One should never coast through a turn. And slowing down is usually best done before the turn. You will learn to shift up, while accelerating through a curve. Downshifting in a curve can be dangerous. If done too abruptly, you will skid the rear tire. These are not stupid questions. While on the course, remember that there are NO stupid questions. Your safety depends on the answers.
Q: i am a student of mechanical engineering and intend to undertake my final year project on employing ABS in motorcycles.Does anyone have a line diagram or figure or anything of the sort to help me know how to get started?
BMW came out with ABS on their bikes way back in the 1980s. Almost all the major manufacturers have ABS on at least one of their models these days. Probably best to just contact one of them, Triumph, Harley, BMW, any Japanese company. The state of the art uses computers (of course) to control when the ABS kicks in. There were older systems, going back to maybe WW2, that used mechanicals to try to detect if the wheel was slowing faster than it should, tried first on aircraft I believe. Good luck, sounds like an interesting project. Some of my college buds built an EFI system-from scratch-for one of their design projects.
Q: I got a forward that was a text and it was about a girl and a boy on a motorcycle and the brakes went out but the boy didnt tell the igirl but he gave her the helmet and told her to hug him and tell him he loves her. she had no idea about the brakes going out but he didnt want to scare her so he wanted to hug her one last time and here her say she loves him one last time it was a sad story but touching and i wanted to know where i could find that story or stories like that
Don't waste you're money on retreads unless you're going to sell it.
Q: I am planning to attempt replacing my rotors and am unsure if there are any critical details i may be leaving out, i will explain my plan of attack and would liek to know if it is suitable.1. elevate front wheel2. remove caliper3. remove axle nut and clip4. slide out axle and remove front wheel5. unbolt old rotor, and replace with new (is there a procedure to center the new rotor on the bolts?)6. Replace wheel with new rotor into forks and reinsert axle7. Tighten axle nut **snugly and insert pin8. replace pads, compress piston, and reatatch caliper9. done?Are there any special tools i will need other than wrenches for screws and bolts and to compress the caliper? Anything im missing? What shoudl i torque the bolts that hold the rotor to the wheel to? Are they backwards threaded as many screws on rotating assemblies often are?
any fuel you want but e85 best way to knwo what fuel gets you the best mileage is by filling it up at place you alway stop at set mileage or write it down drive til one need to refill and buy next lower type octane wil tel you which one to use at that place then you stop at place you sometimes stop at and do same thing knowing which fuel that you get the best mileage with is right type to use start with highest octane and dont retard motor set it like it should be set then do the test

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