Brake pads Non-Asbestos Car Friction Brake Pads

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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month
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Product Description:

Auto parts: 

brake pads

Position: 

Front Axle

PAGID: 

C1004

VALEO: 

541679

WVA: 

29108/29109/29163

FMSI: 

D1203-8323

FERODO: 

FDB1313

Rate: 

EE&FF

Test: 

Link &Greening Test

 Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:

Neutral Packing, ANTEC Packing, Client's Packing. Corrugated Box,Wooden case,Pallet.

Delivery Detail:

30-45days

Specifications

Brake pads 
1)Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 2)High noise abatement 
3)Prompt delivery

Core Products:

We produce Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber brake pads .

Description:

    Crossing Reference Number

Application

FMSI

D1203-8323

FERODO

FDB1313

Scania   

 

Benz 

 

Man 

 

Iveco 

 

DAF

WVA

29087

WVA

29059

WVA

29106

WVA

29105

WVA

29062

WVA

29061

WVA

29060

WVA

29046

WVA

29045

WVA

29042

WVA

29202

WVA

29201

WVA

29179

WVA

29163

WVA

29109

WVA

29108

O.E.M.

0034201620

O.E.M.

0024204920

O.E.M.

082135100

O.E.M.

0044202220

O.E.M.

2992348

O.E.M.

1439324

Features:

1.Shimmed, chamfered and slotted to be consistent with OE Design

2.Positive mold process

3.Ultra-quiet performance, low dusting

4.Rubberized multi-layer shims

5.Responsive braking and longer pad life

6.Sensor wires included on those vehicles with OE sensor wires

7.QS9000, IS09002 and TUV certified

Advantages:

1. Production experience: 15 years

2. Items' availability: 1800 models of brake pads, our R&D Department can develop 10 new items per month. Presently the models under production cover European and American Applications, Japanese and Korean Applications, and heavy-duty applications for truck, bus and engineering vehicles etc.

3. Formulation: Asbestos, Non-asbestos, Semi-metallic, Nao, Ceramic, Carbon fiber 

4.OEM Accepted: We can produce any your design. 

5.Guarantee: 30,000- 60,000kms

6.Warranty:If there is any quality problem, we will supply the same quantity goods with free charge to you.

 

 

 

 

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Q:So I went to bleed my motorcycle‘s brake fluid, but the screw is stripped. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do? Either 1) How to get it out without an abundant amount of tools. 2) The perfect tool to get to get it out or even 3) a place that would take it out for me (for a cost of course).Thanks in Advance!Oh and if it helps, it‘s a 1980 yamaha maxim xj650.
Q:My cousin lifan 150cc motorcycle always turn off everytime i release the gas. So in order to make it turn on everytime. i hold the clutch and gas everytime im going to brake.?? sorry for the detaili really cant explain ithaha
the idle is set too low. Adjust it at the carburator/throttle assembly, or take it to a dealer/mechanic/mechanically inclined individual
Q:Also applies to bikes/motorcycles etc.They also have larger brake discs for that reason. Please try to use laws if possible.
Just think of the car in motion when you try and stop it. The car has a center of gravity and there is a torque from the loaded weight on front wheels about the CG and similarly there is an opposite torque from the loaded weight on the rear wheels. (The lever arm for each goes from the CG to the front point of contact on the road for the front torque and goes from the CG to the back point of contact on the road for the rear torque.) The sum of which is zero, of course. When you try and stop the car, new torques are added. The lever arm here is from the CG to the ground level, but both have the same rotation as each other, rather then opposite. The additional front torque loads the front of the car downward harder to the road, while the similarly rotating new torque around the CG reduces the loading in the rear (lifts it somewhat.) If you want more details, try the following page. I haven't read it, but did a quick search on google using a few terms I tossed at it and this result looks about right.
Q:I used to stop motorcycle by pulling clutch and pressing rear brake. This make rear tyre to slip often, then my friend told me not to pull the clutch and directly press the rear brake and when it stops then pull clutch and downshift the gear. Is this method right? I tried it and really it don‘t allow rear tyre to slip, I am able to stop at over 50kmph without slipping the tyre. But I have question, does this harm engine? I change engine oil in 6000km which is recommended by manufacturer.
I don't know what bike you ride but 90% of your braking power comes from the front wheel. Forget the back brake and concentrate on the front. Ignore those idiotic stories about being flipped over the bars.
Q:I just replaced the front brake pads on my 2000 Kawasaki W650, and now the brakes are not near as good as they were with the old pads that needed replacing. I have to pull the brake lever all the way to the grip of the throttle to get it to stop completely. They are the correct pads and fluid if fine, I even checked and both pistons on the brake apply pressure. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
New brake pads always require a good 50 miles of regular use before they start acting as they should. Bleeding the brakes could stop the problem of pulling the lever all the way back, it is not the fluid but the air that is contained in the fluid, that is a problem because air (as a gas) can easily be compressed whereas liquids like brake fluid can only slightly compress (so slight you would not notice). If bleeding doesn't sort the problem your hoses could be expanding, if they are old and slightly perished replace them, stainless hoses are a good option that will improve braking all round.
Q:How does it feel like to ride your motorcycle without a front brake. I heard some bike builders ride with no front brakes to give them a more adrenaline pumping feeling and that it feels like they are riding on a hand grenade. But I heard from others that its not so safe. What are your opinions about riding with no front brake, is it more fun riding without one or not worth it? Thanks.
Not having a front brake, has nothing to do with thrills, It has to do with weight and looks. You don't need a front brake, to stop a bike safely. Heck, the front brakes are dangerous. A motorcycle is not a car, cars use 70% of brake force on the front, not motorcycles. Thankfully a motorcycle does not, transfer that much weight during braking. Depending on the type of motorcycle you ride, very little weight can transfer. A raked out chopper with transfer almost no weight at all, while a sport bike will transfer 70%. On a chopper not having a front brake, is safer than having one. If your front tire locks up, you will go down. Depending on the bike, you can have as little as 20% of a bikes weight on the front. That means if you even think about using a front brake, you will lock up the front tire and crash. On my 1995 Harley Road King, I have only had to change my front brake pads twice. My rear brake pads have been changed 7 times. I have just over 240,000 miles on the bike. I also had a 1974 chopped Spotster, with no front brake. Never once, got an extra thrill over it.
Q:I have a 1978 Honda goldwing gl1000. My brake light wont work but the tail light is on just fine, I have replaced all fuses,bulbs and checked wires. Is there any tipe of sesnsor on this bike that I should replace or check?
the project with LED's is they are very directional, whilst they'd surprisingly much blind you at modern-day out from the lamp they have little or no gentle to the realm using coventional reflectors in regularly occurring lighting fixtures furniture. the greater appropriate decision i think in LED are the recent LED furniture that are completely crammed with LED emitters. you need to decide your self via driving down the line and watching diverse examples at nighttime.
Q:Hi - I am 18 years old - and never rode a motorcycle before in my life (I have a car). I recently bought a Ninja 250. I signed up for the Motorcycle Basic Riding Course in 4 weeks. Until then, the motorcycle is just going to sit in the garage. Anyways, my question is will the Course tell me how to ride a bike, or do I have to experiment with my bike and learn by myself?
First thing- if the bike is going to sit in the garage for a couple of weeks, add fuel stabilizer and get a battery tender float charger for the battery. Install both of these devises on the bike, then you will be good to go when you decide you want to venture out. If you decide you want to try to venture out before taking the course, learn the basics-how to pick up a downed motorcycle-there is a special technic that does not involve brawn to do it and saves your back. I know I had to 2X yesterday pick up my 800 pound bike on a steep downhill gravel and stone road. nothing sadder than seeing a bike that you are riding laying on its side with no help in sight. Next take the time to read the owners manual. Lots of pertinent info in there. Hardest thing for most beginners-mastering the clutch and throttle while holding the back brake on. You could practice that. Learn to put the motorcycle up on its center stand. Finally read all you can about riding and motorcycle clothing and helmets and gloves and boots and decide what you want and get it. you will need the DOT approved helmet, some form of jacket or long sleeve shirt and gloves, with long pants and boots or shoes that come up over the ankles in order to take the course.
Q:If the motorcycle did not brake, how to stop?
The key off!
Q:my brake light wont work from the lever or pedal but if i puy a live to the wires on brake lever it will come on. How can i fix it??? Please help??????
Sorry but you have to give info on the bike not just your problem.

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