Auto Brake Pads for Toyota Camry 04465-06080
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Qingdao
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100 set
- Supply Capability:
- 50000 set/month
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Model NO.:Toyota HIACE Certification:TS16949, ISO9001, ISO9002 Type:Brake Pads Material:Semi-Metal Position:Front Width:145.4mm Height:56.9mm Thickness:15.5mm Oe:04465-25040 Fmsi:D1344-8455 Wva:21468 Trw:Gdb3059 Export Markets:Global Trademark:According to the customers′ requirements Packing:Neutral Packing/Genuine Packing/Customer′s Request Origin:Dezhou, Shandong, China HS Code:8708301000 Production Capacity:200, 000 Sets/Month We promise to provide the highest quality products for every customers! Basic Info.
Additional Info.
Product Description
You give me a chance, I'll give you a satisfactory service
Our Advantage
1> We have rich friction material formula system for every car series.
2> Most of our raw material are imported from Japan, German, France and Netherlands.
3> We have all the craft, process and technology in brake pads producing line in the world.
4> We have big bench test instrument to promise the braking performance of our products.
And every our new formula are tested by installing on our local taxi.
5> We can produce as your samples.
6> We can supply you with OE quality brake pads.
Detailed Specification
1. Non-asbestos disc brake pad
2. Material: Semi-metalic/ceramic
3. Certification: TS16949/ISO9001
4. Packing detail: Inner packing: Heat shrink bags/boxes; Outer packing: Cartons
5. Comfortable braking performance: No noise, no dust, less wear loss, less fade, better recovery
6. Minimum order quantity: 200sets
7. Port of shipment: Qingdao or Tianjin
8. Supply ability: 30000sets per month
9. Delivery time: 7 working days after receive the deposit
10. Payment terms: T/T
- Q: I know that front brakes control the front wheel and rear brakes the rear wheel. However, I remember in the MSF course that I should only use rear brake before making a tight, slow turn, and never the front brakes. In addition, I should also use rear brake when stopping from a high speed, and not so much the front brakes. My question is, when is the appropriate time to use each brake when riding? I would love an explanation.
- Don't be scared of using them both but you need to use them progressively and don't just stand on the foot brake and a fist full of the front brake; that will certainly bring you down for a close look at the bitumen. I am assuming you are road riding but you haven't said the make and model. Most bikes when braking fairly hard the is about 80% of the braking force on the front and 20% on the rear wheel. If you try to get too much from the rear brake it will lock the wheel and you will be in a skid. With the bike upright apply the front brake using the 3 fingers from the thumb, the front of the bike will dive down and you will loose speed. I would get a bit used to the front brake for upright braking then start applying more pressure and bring on some back brake gently. Then work them both progressively from about 40 mph each time till you are happy with the braking rate and used to the bike dropping her nose; and that is very normal. If the road is wet or dirty brake earlier and with less pressure; if you ever feel a shudder or the back wheel moving around ease off the brakes. Ease the brakes a bit when you are below 10 mph. Once you have confidence that you have a good feel for the brakes you could try using the brakes when you need to reduce a bit of speed leaning into a corner; the same amount of pressure when the bike is on less or the same lean as it would be with you sitting on it with the side stand down; if you need to brake with more lean use less pressure. I can't give you more advise not knowing the make and model of your bike.
- Q: Can it cause the motorcycle to move erratically or what?
- While braking for a stop you would normally apply the clutch too, so the engine is disconnected from the rear wheel, so throttling up would have little affect. If you were, for example, braking for a corner, released the brake and accelerated hard the back wheel may move sideways (it seems more when you are on the bike than it appears to an outside observer). In a straight line the sideways movement would be less (generally) but the front suspension will load up during braking and unload during acceleration giving a choppy movement (this will also happen in a corner and will exacerbate sideways movement). This is why braking while leaned is advised against.
- Q: What should I know about a scooter before I place an order, the brands, models, prices, replacements, and what else? Among all of these, what matters most, the parts, engine, brakes, or just the style?I‘m a motorcycle beginner and want to start with a scooter first.
- Screw the scooter, if you want a motorcycle buy a motorcycle. Like saying you want a car, buy a go-cart. Honda Rebel 250, go from there.
- Q: I just change my rear tire and now i have no rear brake. My father and I bleeded the system, but i still have no rear brake. Have any suggests to try, or what might be the problem with it?
- As your brake pads wear down you calipers have to push farther and that requires more fluid to make the brake caliper pistons push the pads into the rotors. If you have good brake peddle that's why you keep adding fluid
- Q: I understand the basic frame and two wheel concept, but what about steering and turning and so forth. I will of course take lessons, but I would like to know if I already have ANY basic skills needed to ride a motorcycle.
- No. Don't think of a motorcycle as a motorized bicycle and you'll do fine.
- Q: After my Honda VT750 1998 fell down while riding, it started making noise somewhere around the front wheel; noise like two hard pieces are scratching each other. At the beginning the noise happened only when the front brake was applied, but now it happens when riding. I also feel weak knocking on the front brake lever. The pace of the knocking becomes faster as the speed of the bike slower. The brake disc was hot after a ride in which I used the brake.What is the problem and solutions? I'd appreciate answers not like take it to a shop. Thank you.
- Well, if you fell off, you likely bent the rotor, and now its dragging on the caliper. You could have bent the caliper mounting bracket as well...but more likely to have bent the rotor (if I recall, the caliper bolts directly onto the lower fork tube...so kinda hard to bend that...) Might be the piston sticking in the caliper as well...but Im really thinking its a bent rotor. Solution? Replace the bent rotor with a straight one. Check out eBay for used rotors so you dont have to pay ridiculous OEM prices.
- Q: When riding my motorcycle, I usually will slow down using the front and rear brakes, and by downshifting through each gear. I do this in traffic so if a light turns green suddenly I will still be in a gear to accelerate.If I am on an open road and want to stop, can I just pull the clutch lever in and coast instead of downshifting (while using the brakes of course)? Would this damage the clutch at all? I‘ve heard it damages car manuals but I want to see what a motorcycle would be like.
- It might not hurt it - but it wont be GOOD for it. you don't say what kind of bike you have - most modern bikes have clutches that run in the engine oil bath (exceptions - Ducati - most BMW - dry clutches). When you coast - engine at idle and say 70 mph in high gear the differential in clutch plate speed may be about 3-400 rpm. The oil film between the plates will be shearing and getting hot due to the different clutch plate speeds. Might just tend to burn and shear down your oil as much as anything. If you want to coast - try nudging the gear lever down into neutral between gears - and then let the clutch out. DO NOT shift down into 1st gear at 60-70 mph or you might blow the clutch plates - because they go up to high rpm.
- Q: Hello! I have a 2001 Honda Shadow Ace (VT750CD). My brakes work but need new pads. The front wheel is already off from something else I was doing. The problem is that the caliper pistons are sticking out a little bit, maybe 1/4 inch. With the new pads installed, there isn‘t enough room for the rotor to go inbetween so I need to push the pistons in some but I can‘t just push them in. Is there a problem with the pistons? While I have everything removed, I might as well clean the caliper. Can someone please explain the steps? Should I:Unbolt caliperPump brake until pistons begin to come out moreGrip and remove pistonsClean the bore and sand pistonsPut waterproof brake grease on pistons before installing againPush them all the way in flush before installing new brake pads???Should I remove the dust seals/o-rings before cleaning the bore? Any help is very much appreciated.
- First, you should be consulting a manual. Second, you should use the old pad with that clamp to make sure the piston has no chance of cocking in the bore.
- Q: Front brake works but rattling gets more common.What needs to be repaired or replaced? Any help appreciated.
- Clean the MAF sensor, it's contaminated with oil. Then remove the CAI and replace with the factory setup. You've been dupped into thinking this improves performance. All it makes is more noise
- Q: is it difficult to switch gears on motorcylce.i suck at manual cars.swithcing gears i use automatic/standard
- Vast majority of motorcycles have manual transmission. If you suck at operating a manual transmission car, you should not consider operating a motorcycle. On a motorcycle left foot controls gear selection. Right foot operates the rear brake. Left hand pulls the clutch lever. Right hand does double duty. Operates the throttle AND the front brake. Plus there is steering and balance to consider. Manual transmission cars are so much easier to drive than a motorcycle.
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Auto Brake Pads for Toyota Camry 04465-06080
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Qingdao
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100 set
- Supply Capability:
- 50000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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