Brake Pads for Toyota Corolla (04465-02061)

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Product Description:

Basic Info.

Model NO.:Toyota HIACE

Certification:TS16949, ISO9001, ISO9002

Type:Brake Pads










Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.

Trademark:According to the customers′ requirements

Packing:Neutral Packing/Genuine Packing/Customer′s Request

Origin:Dezhou, Shandong, China

HS Code:8708301000

Production Capacity:200, 000 Sets/Month

Product Description

We promise to provide the highest quality products for every customers! 

You give me a chance, I'll give you a satisfactory service

Our Advantage

1> We have rich friction material formula system for every car series. 

2> Most of our raw material are imported from Japan, German, France and Netherlands. 

3> We have all the craft, process and technology in brake pads producing line in the world. 

4> We have big bench test instrument to promise the braking performance of our products. 

And every our new formula are tested by installing on our local taxi. 

5> We can produce as your samples. 

6> We can supply you with OE quality brake pads. 

Detailed Specification

1. Non-asbestos disc brake pad

2. Material: Semi-metalic/ceramic

3. Certification: TS16949/ISO9001

4. Packing detail: Inner packing: Heat shrink bags/boxes; Outer packing: Cartons

5. Comfortable braking performance: No noise, no dust, less wear loss, less fade, better recovery

6. Minimum order quantity: 200sets

7. Port of shipment: Qingdao or Tianjin

8. Supply ability: 30000sets per month

9. Delivery time: 7 working days after receive the deposit

10. Payment terms: T/T












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Q:So the thing is, Motorcycles are following cars technology although they‘re around 20 years behind! Liquid cooling introduced in cars far earlier than bikes. So do fuel injection and now ABS braking. Now my real point is, will motorcycles go automatic in upcoming years? Honda have already showed some interest by introducing VFR1200F and NC700, both of them have optional automatic transmissions. As much as 99% scooters have already gone automatic (CVT to be precise). Piaggio used to had twist shifters in the 70s but now they‘re all automatic. Do you love this trend or hate it? I simply hate it, it disgusts me to my core
A manual transmission is part of what defines a motorcycle. Most motorcyclists consider an automatic not a real motorcycle. I rode a Hondamatic from the early eighties, I did not like it at all and most riders would feel the same.
Q:I have a1981 Yamaha 650, and i just changed my front brake pads. The fit was extremely tight and now it seems to grind on the caliper when im on the road. I find myself slowing down and not able to coast far at all. How do i release the pressure on the front brakes? Any help would be appreciated.
sounds like you did not clean around the piston & push it in before you put the pads in, piston not going back in enough. easy way = remove pads - pump brake gently so piston moves out about 2mm there will be a ring of crud around it get an old tooth brush dip it in wd40 brush aroung the piston to clean the crud away wipe with a bit of rag now push the piston back in a G clamp will do this if not got one put old pads loosly in then get a large screwdriver & force the pads apart this will push the piston in, fit new pads bolt caliper back on, NOW BEFORE YOU RIDE PUMP THE BRAKE UNTILL IT STARTS TO WORK job done,
Q:I know you shouldnt ever brake on a curve. But if you have to slow down for some reason, would u use rear or front brake, or both?
Detroit, 1964, I have my new Honda Sport 50. They told to not use the front brake in the wet as you will go down. So I go out on a wet street, heading straight, nail the front brake only and stop quickly and smoothly and upright. They do not know what they are talking about. As long as you are not near the limits of traction there is absolutely no problem with braking in a curve. If you are taking your curves at or near maximum speed on anything other than a race track you are stupid and you *will* crash. Street riding is not about going fast -- it is about getting to your destination.
Q:Need a front brake hose for a 1981 Honda CM 400A Hondamatic. Would appreciate any links. Thanks.
This is a motorcycle. Since it is a Honda, go to your Honda dealer and get one. The worse case is that you may have to take the fittings off and have one made for you at a hydraulic shop. Most places that service tractors (John Deere, Massey Fergusson etc.) should be able to do it or at least tell you where they get theirs done.
Q:i bought my motorcycle to fix it up, and there is no brake fluid in the bike. I watched videos about bleeding the fluid, but i dont know what to do if there is none what so ever. Do i just poor it in and pump the brakes or what?
1 Take the cap off the master cylinder 2 open the bottle of brake fluid. 3 center the opening on the brake fluid bottle above the opening created by removing the cap on the master cylinder. 4 slowly tilt the bottle of fluid 5 watch gravity work. 6 return fluid bottle to upright position when the master cylinder is full 7 execute steps for the brake bleeding process 8 repeat as necessary
Q:Can anyone tell me how to perform compression braking in a motorcycle. I need a step by step explanation. Thanks
Compression braking is just another name for Engine braking,where you let off the throttle or downshift and let off the throttle.You have probably done it a thousand times without realising.For smooth braking on the approach to a junction You would let off the throttle and as the rev's decrease drop her down to a lower gear and so on,also using the front brake when neededIt keeps everything smooth and under control.
Q:they say that the front brake is like 70% and the back is 30 (or maybe 60/40) but anyways, which one would you normally use to slow down? i would guess the back one would be slowing down and the front would be for full stops? i dont own a bike yet, but of course, im curious and doing research.oh yea, if you slam on the back brake (the one near the footrest) your wheel wouldnt stop right? just slow down?
That 70% is the braking force done by the front tire, not by the brake. You always, always, always, apply both front and rear brakes evenly. Never, ever, use more front brake than rear. You don't even need, a front brake at all. Many old and custom bikes, don't have one. That being said, two tires stop faster than one. In dry, conditions. Use both brakes evenly, using the front brake only, when you stop. If there is sand, gravel, water, ice, snow, oil, or anything else. Use only a very light touch, on the front brake. If you lock up the front tire, you will go down. If you lock up the rear tire, you can just ease up. No big deal. If you slam on the rear brake, it will lock up the rear tire. If you do this in a turn, the bike will slide out from under you. If you release the rear brake during a slide, you can high side. Very painful. You brake before and entering a turn. Once again evenly, front and back. You brake before the turn, to pre-load the front tire. Once you've slowed down, so you can make the turn, Let off the brakes, cost till you can gas and go. Hitting the gas to soon, will unload the front tire. Causing the front tire, to drift. Making you go wide, into oncoming traffic, or off the road. Take a motorcycle safety coarse, ride safe.
Q:If they made bicycles so the front brake was on the right, it would be less hazardous and confusing when you rode a motorcycle. Are there other countries where the brakes are on the other side?
Like SVTCOBRA stated. you are comparing apples to oranges. The only thing that bicycles and motorcycles have in common is each has two wheels. Up until the mid 70's, British motorcycles had the shifter on the right foot and the rear brake on the left foot. American and Japanese motorcycles we opposite of this. To my knowledge, all motorcycles sold in the US must have the shifter on the left and the rear brake on the right for uniformity. This puts the brakes, front and rear on the right side of the motorcycle and the shifter and clutch on the left side. Maybe one of our friends from Great Britain could tell us if it is that way in their part of the world or whether it is still right shifter and left foot rear brake. Good luck.
Q:i've taken the caliper off and sand papered it and greased it so now i have to pump the brakes for the piston to extend all the way out before it wouldn't move should i just replace the caliper or can i fix it
If it isn't leaking around the seals then maybe you have air in the lines and just need to bleed them. If the bike sat a long time then check to see if the brake line has gone soft.
Q:I have refilled the master cylinder with brake fluid about 5/6 times now and the front brake still will not tighten. i‘ve tried bleeding from the brake hose that connect to master cylinder and from the caliper bleeder and still no pressure. 98‘ suzuki dr350sew
Try another simple trick. Fill a syringe full of brake fluid, and place the end of the syringe into the hole (Where brake fluid gets sucked down) in the master cylinder. Make sure there's a good seal, and push down on the syringe to let the fluid shoot down that hole. Before you do this however, open up the bleed nipple on the calipar. This will help get out any big air pockets. After this is done (Try a few times), close the bleed nipple and pump the lever to see if it regains pressure. As a tip, cover the bike up with a sheet or something so the fluid doesn't go on paintwork.

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