• ANon asbestos brake lining for TOYOTA 19486 System 1
  • ANon asbestos brake lining for TOYOTA 19486 System 2
  • ANon asbestos brake lining for TOYOTA 19486 System 3
ANon asbestos brake lining for TOYOTA 19486

ANon asbestos brake lining for TOYOTA 19486

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
200 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month

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Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:1) 3 sets per carton 2) 20' container: 1000 CTNS
Delivery Detail:15days

Specifications

1) Extremly lower noise
2) Little dust and long life
3) Stable friction coefficient
4) High quaility with guarantee

1.Specifications

Type

Brake lining

Material

Semi-metallic or non-asbestor

OEM No.

19486

Certification

ISO/TS16949

Color

Black or up to you

Asbestos

None

Noise

None

Guarentee

40,000 kms  

Packing

carton package

FOB Price

USD 1.7-4.5 /pc

MOQ

100 sets

Delivery Time

30 days after order confirmation

 

2.Advantages

1)Stable Friction Coefficient

2)heat-resistant: Less fading and heat resistant up to 400°C

3)abrasion resistance

4)Long Service life:FF grade 35000~40000km

5)Low noise and dustproof

6)Environmental protection,green products

7)Standard:GB5763-1998

 

 3.Promise
1)We can supply all kinds of brake pad ; this model was designed  and developed as per clients' specifications and drawings or samples
2) We can currently offer over 800 moulds for different using models for Japanese, European, Korean and American brand cars and trucks with OEM services available
3)These products sell well in more than 20 countries and regions including the Middle East, Southeast Asia, Europe, America and Japan
4)We assure that all the parts strictly meet the original equipment standards

 

 

Q: 110 of the motorcycle today's friction piece of the screw loose do not know inside the screw should be outside or inside
I understand what you mean. You engage in the gap, and then relax the nut, and then gently screw the screw to the inside of the screw does not move so far, and then back one-eighth of the circle, as long as the return a little bit, and then tighten the nut like
Q: My son is 17 - but he‘s 6‘2 and 265 - and I would love to get him a motorcycle but would prefer and automatic. Just one less thing for him think about while riding. Any suggestions?
Not knowing what you want to spend let me make suggestions that may work in the future. he's a big boy so some of the toy suggestions will embarrass him. he'll dwarf the bikes. I know, I'm 6'3 and 280. He may not be ready for it yet but there are counterweighted clutch pressure plates for Harley's that make shifting vertually automatic. Semi auto anyway. You have to shift but as long as you roll off the throttle, clutch engagement is not critical. Check them out at your nearest V twin performance bike shop.
Q: Excuse me if im wrong, but from my previous studies in physics and riding a bicycle(since i am only 15), applying front brakes may provide some efficiency in stop the object faster but in reality its very dangerous as the motorcycle could lock up and flip over, thus leaving you in a bad situation. Why not just use the rear brake all the time? It seems much more naturale oui?
Because at speed, the front brakes being applied compress' the front forks (giving leverage to the front wheel) whilst lifting the rear. Sort of digging into the road. This gives more pressure and grip to the front wheel. Along with two big rotors and two calipers on the front wheel gives it more stopping power. Brakes should always be applied smoothly and the more pressure you apply, the tighter the brakes will be. If you grab the front brake, you will either A- lock the wheel causing the front wheel to lose traction and take a spill or B- lock the wheel while maintaining traction, and flip the bike over the handlebars. This applies to the rear wheel as well. Obviously you won't fly backwards but you will lose traction, potentially causing a fish tale and crash. Generally when I'm coming to a stop. I apply a bit of rear brake ( again, giving leverage to the front) then apply the front until the stop is complete. There are infinite scenarios on which brake to use and when, but that's the absolute basics of it.
Q: Thank you all for helping me decide which bike to get. Hopefully this is my last question. I found a 2007 Honda CBR600RR on sale with 9,000 miles on it with an aftermarket exhaust (can‘t make out what make) for $6,200. Bike is in excellent condition with no bumps or scratches. Will probably be able to get it for $5000. Is this a good deal? Take it or pass? My other option is a Yamaha FZ-07/09
Too funny! First bike and you want an almost Race-Ready machine (that's what the RR stands for). Go find something a bit tamer to learn HOW to ride on.
Q: i just took the MSF course and ive been practicing in an empty parking lot near my house. At the MSF course i was taught the B-C-D (Brake-Clutch-Downshift) for braking. However a lot of people have told me to pull in the clutch first THEN brake. Which is correct?
In an emergency do what your course taught you (brake, clutch, downshift). Just riding around, clutch then brake or both at the same time. But at high speed the transmission will slow you down quicker then you think. And at very high speed, wind resistance will slow you down quickly.
Q: left side lower ribcage is swollen and bruised and yes it hurts bad. I laid my motorcycle down trying to make a corner too fast.
Go to the hospital mate - it could be a number of things
Q: i am pushing dead air - it goes down to where it touches the muffler and has no holding power. i bought the motorcycle used a couple of weeks ago, it had just passed inspection. i drove it maybe 10 hours. i realized i was using the back brake too much to slow down - sometimes stopping without the front brake at all. do you think i screwed it up? i remembered briefly my teacher saying u have to use both brakes, or you‘ll either lock the front brake or destroy your back brake. of course, forgot all about this until i did it!! do u think that is what happened? will i need a new brake pad? can i make some adjustments to make it brake harder?
The West Bank Seperation Wall The Gaza Refugee camp The Negev Dessert (the Israelis are currently in the process of evicting a 6,000 year old culture that dwells there.)
Q: What does the motorcycle cbs mean?
CBS is an abbreviation for English Combination Braking System
Q: Lets say I was on a motorcycle and my brakes fail. Will the motorcycle keep going or stay the same speed?
In case you are a beginner rider then you don't have any business driving a 900cc laptop, it's too damned big. The key of sluggish speed turns is to loosen up, lean with bike, and keep rolling on the energy the entire way via the turn. What you might be more commonly doing is retaining consistent vigour however you're no longer *increasing* the power by way of the flip. Don't grip the handlebars; your palms have to always be comfy even in a tight turn; the handlebars are just a resting position for your hands. If you're going very gradual you could cheat and just trip upright around a flip but it's an extraordinarily unhealthy addiction and you should handiest do it on slippery surfaces. This could sound infantile but are attempting making brrmmmm! Brrrmmm! noises as you enter the turn, it's silly (full face helmet time) nevertheless it reminds you to apply just a little aggression to the throttle and lean with the bike.

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